
Class. 

Book „_ 

Copyright N? 



CCPVIUGKT DEPOSIT. 



DANIEL 



WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



HARRIETTE STORY PAIGE 
From a portrait by Savinien-Edme Dubourjal, 1844 



OA1IEL WEBSTER IK 

JOURNAL OP 
HARRLETTE STORY PAIGE 

1839 



Edited by Edward Gray 
With Portraits 




BOSTON AND NEW YORK 
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 

<3T&e fctoerjHbe ptetf Gambribge 
1917 



I/V 



COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY EDWARD GRAY 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Published December 1Q17 






JAN ~z\m 

©CI. A 47 99 ■ 



I 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. PAGE 

I. London : May 18 - July 14 3 

II. Oxford and Windsor : July 15-20 118 

III. London Again : July 21-August 5 144 

IV. Journey through England and Wales : Au- 

gust 6-23 181 

V. Journey through Scotland : August 24- 

September 7 237 

VI. Journey back to London : September 8-20 295 
Index 353 



INTRODUCTION 



Harriette Story (White) Paige was born 
at Salem, Massachusetts, November 29, 1809, 
and died at Boston, November 25,1863. Her father, 
Stephen White, was a merchant of Salem, and her 
mother, Harriet Story, was the daughter of Dr. 
Elisha Story, of Boston, and Marblehead, and a sis- 
ter of Joseph Story, Justice of the Supreme Court 
of the United States. In 1831, Harriette Story White 
married James William Paige (1792-1868), a mer- 
chant of Boston, and half-brother of Grace Fletcher 
(1781-1828), the first wife of Daniel Webster, 
and mother of his children ; their mother, Eebecca 
Chamberlin, having married, first, the Reverend 
Elijah Fletcher, and, secondly, the Reverend Chris- 
topher Paige. 

The James William Paiges and the Websters 
were on very intimate terms, and Mrs. Paige accom- 
panied Mr. and Mrs. Webster, and Julia on their 
trip to Europe in 1839. This journey was not made 
in any official capacity, and Mr. Webster's recep- 

[ ix ] 



INTRODUCTION 



tion in England was due solely to his reputation and 
personality. 

In the Life of Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of Bea- 
consfeld, by William Flavelle Monypenny (vol. n, 
p. 64), there is the following description of Mr. 
Webster by Disraeli, written in 1839: " Lyndhurst 
was also capital. I dined with him yesterday to meet 
Webster, who is, I believe, considered a very refined 
and spiritual Yankee, but seemed to me a complete 
Brother Jonathan — a remarkable twang, as ' tyran- 
nical ' and all that ; he also goes to the levee. A 
fine brow, lofty, broad, and beetled, deep-set eyes, 
and swarthy complexion. He is said when warmed 
to be their greatest orator." In the Life of Daniel 
Webster, by George Ticknor Curtis (vol. n), will 
be found impressions of Mr. Webster by Thomas 
Carlyle, by John Kenyon, who also speaks of " Web- 
ster's agreeable family party — his wife and daugh- 
ter and relative, Mrs. Paige," and also by Henry 
Hallam. 

Mrs. Paige kept a journal of this visit to Eng- 
land, as she writes, "for the benefit of friends at 
home," and her impressions of what she saw, and of 
some of the people she met, are recorded in it. This 
journal is here given in full ; there are a few foot- 

[ * 3 



INTRODUCTION 



notes added by Mrs. Paige, in pencil, which are 
marked H. S. P. to distinguish them from those of 
the editor. 

In the editor's footnotes, the family name is put 
after the daughter's Christian name, and omitted 
after the father's Christian name. 

E.G. 

Milton, Massachusetts, 1917. 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

JOURNAL OF 

HARRIETTE STORY PAIGE 

1839 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN 
ENGLAND 

JOURNAL OF 
HABRIETTE STORY PAIGE 



Eon&on 



UNDER a clear sky May 18, 1839, embarked 
at New York for Liverpool, Steamer Liver- 
pool, Captain Fayrer Commander, in company with 
Mr. and Mrs. Webster, 1 and their Daughter Julia 
Webster. 2 The wharves and vessels lying near were 
crowded with a multitude of persons, who amid the 
still louder peals of the cannon, gave us many part- 
ing cheers. 

At 3 o'clock, p.m., we left the harbour of New 
York, and at 5 discharged our Pilot off Sandy Hook. 
The distance between this and Liverpool, is 3300 

1 Daniel Webster's second wife, Caroline, daughter of Jacob Le 
Roy, of New York ; married, 1829. 

2 Julia Webster, 1818-48, daughter of Daniel and Grace 
(Fletcher) ; married, 1839, Samuel Appleton Appleton. 

[ 3 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

miles, which the Captain prophecies, we shall ac- 
complish in fourteen and a half days, or at the rate 
of about 228 miles per day. 

Our steamer is 210 feet long, by 33 wide, with 
engines equal to 468 horse power, and is provided 
with 675 tons of coal. The number of passengers is 
86 ; there are several Englishmen, and also Scotch, 
Irish, Spanish, German, French, and Italians on 
board, those from America making the smallest 
number. The ship's crew includes 62 persons. 

On Thursday, May 23, we saw for the first time, 
(the sea being calm), the " Portuguese man-of-war," 
or nautilus, and also many porpoises. The former 
are very curious ; they spread their tiny sails, and 
glide by so gracefully, that I felt a desire to examine 
them more minutely. I am told they are smaller on 
inspection, and are apt to irritate the fingers when 
handled. 

On Saturday, June 1, we experienced the channel 
weather, fog, and haze; land in sight, but Cape 
Clear on the Irish Coast, not visible. One of the 
officers remarked to me, that he has passed this cape 
seven times, and has seen it but once. 

On Sunday, June 2, the Pilot came on board, 40 
miles from Liverpool, at 14 minutes after 5 a.m., 

[ 4 ] 



THE VOYAGE 



being 14 days and 7 hours from the moment of 
discharging the Pilot off Sandy Hook. 

I have suffered in a degree from seasickness, but 
the motion of the ship, during the whole voyage, 
was never sufficient to disturb our comfort at table, 
or a single article upon it. Thus we have proceeded 
under the powers of steam, seeing little of the terrors 
of the ocean, or the romance, and sentiment, so gen- 
erally associated with it. At eleven o'clock of the 
same day, we arrived at Liverpool, and took lodg- 
ings at the Adelphi Hotel. 

June 3, Liverpool. This city is celebrated for its 
shipping, and its docks. They are very extensive, 
admirably constructed, and of great solidity and 
strength. They are built of a brown, reddish sand- 
stone, at enormous expense, and capable of holding 
afloat the largest vessels. They extend along the 
river Mersey, for three and a half miles, and are 
well worth a close examination. We have also seen 
with great pleasure the Cemetery, formerly a quarry 
in the centre of a little hill, from which was taken 
the stone for the formation of these docks ; this 
quarry is upon the highest point of land in the city, 
and is a long serpentine excavation, and by a most 
happy conception, it has been turned into a ceme- 

[ 5 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

tery. A way down to the bottom of it, has been cut 
in, and partly under, the solid original rock ; down 
this gentle slope, one can descend to the bottom, 
which has been artificially levelled, and made even. 
Here, along winding paths, and in the midst of shrub- 
bery, and flowers, are the graves, and tombs. Other 
sepulchres are cut in the rocks, on the sides, giving 
quite an oriental appearance to the whole. Ivy and 
flowers, creep up the slopes, and along the margin, 
at the top, is a row of large trees. The whole is 
tasteful, and beautiful. A grave with the initials of 
the occupant, in pepper-grass, just peeping above the 
ground, struck me as a pretty idea, as it must be 
renewed too, every Spring. Near the centre of the 
grounds, stands a small temple, containing a statue 
of the lamented Huskisson, 1 erected to his memory. 
We dine with Mr. and Mrs. Humfrey, at 6 o'clock 
to-day, American friends, established here. 

June 4. We have driven to Knowsley Prrk to- 
day, about seven miles from Liverpool, the seat of 
the Earl of Derby, 2 whose eldest son, and heir, 
Lord Stanley, 3 was well known to Mr. Webster in 

1 William Huskisson, 1770-1830 ; statesman. 

2 Edward Smith Stanley, 13th Earl of Derby, 1775-1851. 

8 Edward George Geoffrey Smith Stanley, 14th Earl of Derby, 
1799-1SG9; statesman. 

C 6 ] 



LIVERPOOL 



America, some years since. We were most hospi- 
tably received, although the Earl was too ill to see 
Mr. Webster, and his son was in London. We were 
invited to luncheon, and shown the Aviary and Me- 
nagerie, both of which are very extensive and inter- 
esting, and also went over the grounds. I saw, for 
the first time, the gold and silver pheasants, from 
China, and many Kangaroos, hopping about in the 
enclosures surrounded by small iron fences, painted 
black.* On our return, we visited, in company with 
two of our fellow passengers (Mr. Gibson a Scotch 
gentleman, and William Anthony Barclay f of New 
York), the "Mayor's Hall," which is spacious and 
beautiful, also the " Tunnel" which commences here. 
We also saw the " Custom House " and the " Ex- 
change," where the Merchants meet, as with us, 
daily, from two to three o'clock, to discuss their busi- 
ness matters. 

June 5. Left Liverpool to-day, by way of the 
Birkenhead ferry, across the river Mersey, and pro- 
ceeded to Chester, a fine old town, full of interest 
from its very antiquity ; there we saw the old Abbey 
of St. Werburgh, part of which was built in the 

* Called " invisible fences." (H. S. P.) 

t Now H.B.M. Consul at N. York. (H. S. P.) 

[ 7 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

early reign of Ethelred. Seven miles from Chester 
is " Eaton Hall," the seat of the Marquis of West- 
minster, 1 one of the richest noblemen in England. 
This castle is very extensive, and a very beautiful 
specimen of the florid Gothic architecture. The 
" coup d'ceil " on entering the hall, is very imposing, 
adorned with figures in armour, and old pictures. 
The interior apartments are very magnificent, the 
furniture of brocade and gold, and the walls fluted 
in velvet with gold fringes, and rich cornices, far sur- 
passing in splendor anything we have yet, ever seen, 
but we are told, we shall yet see many things beyond 
this. The view of the grounds, through the win- 
dows, down the terrace is beautiful beyond descrip- 
tion ; every spot in the highest cultivation, presenting 
to us altogether, a scene, realising only, that of the 
poet, or the painter. We were amply repaid for our 
exertions, in driving to this place through the heat 
of the mid-day sun, and can talk of nothing, but 
this splendid specimen, of the " Stately homes of 
England." 

The following day, Thursday, June 6, we drove 
as far as Hartford, and there joining the Liverpool 

1 Robert Grosvenor, 2d Earl Grosvenor and 1st Marquis of West- 
minster, 1767-1845 ; great picture-collector and horse-racer. 

[ 8 ] 



ARRIVAL IN LONDON 



railway, found ourselves at 8 o'clock, at the Euston 
station, and soon after, at the hospitable mansion 
of Mr. Jaudon 1 in Park Crescent, in the far-famed 
city of London. Our lodgings in Hanover Square 
at the Brunswick Hotel, had been secured, but will 
not be at our service, until Saturday morning; we 
are therefore the guests of our kind friends, Mr. 
and Mrs. Jaudon, until then. 

Friday, June 7. We dined to-day at 6 o'clock 
with Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Wiggin, who have just 
established themselves, in a new, and richly fur- 
nished house in Park Crescent ; there we met several 
American friends including, Mr. 2 and Mrs. Bates, 3 
Mr. and Mrs. Cryder, Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Wig- 
gin, 4 and their son, Mr. Holme Wiggin, Mr. and 
Mrs. Jaudon, and some others unknown to me. A 
very splendid and agreeable dinner. We have also 
visited the Coliseum, to see the Panorama of London 
there exhibiting, and had our first actual view of 

1 Samuel Jaudon ; Banker in London, formerly cashier of the 
Bank of the United States. 

2 Joshua Bates, 1788-1864 ; financier. Born at Weymouth, Massa- 
chusetts. Member of Baring Brothers. He contributed $100,000 to 
the Public Library in Boston. 

3 Lucretia Augusta Sturgis, daughter of William ; married Joshua 
Bates, died 1863. 

* Timothy Wiggin, 1773-1856 ; banker. 



[ 9 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



and wrote her an autograph. Mr. Babbage, whose 
eye is penetrating, and whole expression energetic, 
invited us after breakfast, at 12 o'clock, to visit his 
" self calculating machine," and to his house we pro- 
ceeded from Mr. Kenyon's. This piece of machinery 
I cannot attempt to describe, although Mr. Bab- 
bage, who is the inventor, made it quite plain to Mr. 
Webster's more scientific capacity. It was however, 
even to me, very curious, and wonderful, and the 
machine itself, seemed to possess all but, the power 
of speaking. With Mr. Babbage we lunched, and 
saw afterward an automaton lady, also of his own 
manufacture, or invention, which moved, its arms, 
and head, and eyes, like other automata. 

At 7 o'clock we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, 
and afterwards went to a Soiree at Miss Rogers', 
where we had the good fortune of meeting Tom 
Moore, 1 Lockhart, 2 son-in-law of Scott, Hallam, 3 au- 
thor of "Middle Ages," Lady Davy, 4 widow of the 
celebrated Sir Humphry Davy, 5 and Lady Chantrey, 

1 Thomas Moore, 1779-1S52; poet. 

2 John Gibson Lockhart, 1794-1854 ; biographer of Scott. 
8 Henry Hallam, 1777-1859 ; historian. 

4 Lady Jane Davy, 1780-1855, n£e Kerr; a prominent figure in 
the society of both Rome and London. 

5 Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829 ; natural philosopher. 

[ 12 ] 



MEETING DICKENS 



wife of Sir Francis Chan trey, 1 the sculptor. Like- 
wise, we were introduced to Miss Coutts, 2 daughter 
of Sir Francis Burdett, 3 and heiress of the immense 
wealth of her Aunt, the late Duchess of St. Albans. 4 

June 10. 5 Mr. Webster has been to the houses 
of Parliament to-day, with Mr. Stevenson, 6 although 
he made a previous visit, incognito, three days ago. 
Mrs. Webster and Julia have been driving in Hyde 
Park with Miss Sarah Wallace, and her lap-dog. 
This lady is a relative of the Ogden family, in New 
York, and is unmarried, and has purchased a life 
annuity, upon which she lives in London, in good 
style, with a handsome income. 

June 11. Mr. Webster dined to-day, with Mr. 
Kenyon to meet " Boz," 7 the author of the " Pick- 
wick Papers." Having expressed to Kenyon, a desire 

1 Sir Francis Legatt Chantrey, 1781-1842 ; sculptor. 

2 Angela Georgina Burdett-Coutts, 1814-1906, daughter of Sir 
Francis Burdett. 

8 Sir Francis Burdett, 1770-1844; politician; married Sophia 
Coutts. 

4 Harriet Mellon, 1777-1837; actress; daughter of Matthew, 
and relict of Thomas Coutts, of London, banker; married, 1827, 
William Aubrey de Vere Beauclerk, 9th Duke of St. Albans. 

5 The date is repeated. 

6 Andrew Stevenson, 1784-1857 ; statesman ; American Minister 
to England, 1836-41. 

T Charles Dickens, 1812-70 ; novelist. 



[ 13 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

to see this author whose books had given us so much 
pleasure, he expressly asked him to dinner, as Mrs. 
Webster, Julia and myself were to follow in the 
evening. " Boz " greatly resembles the prints of him 
seen in America. He wears an abundance of hair, 
and appeared to be a very silent personage, keeping 
in a corner, and shunning observation, but withal, I 
fancy he is a great observer. I looked at him with 
interest and compassion, having given full credence 
to the pathetic tale of his sorrows, at the loss of his 
wife and children. As a relief from these bereave- 
ments, I have been told, he had turned to author- 
ship ; Kenyon laughed most heartily at our wasted 
sympathy, assuring us, that Dickens was yet a Hus- 
band and a Father, and that the story industriously 
circulated, had no origin in truth. 

Wednesday, June 12. This day was appointed for 
visiting the " Tower," which from historical associa- 
tion, and reminiscences of childhood, had for me a 
peculiar interest. This ancient fortress is on the 
North bank of the Thames, at the S. E. extremity 
of the city. It is said to have been built by William 
the Conqueror in the year 1078. The "Horse Ar- 
moury" first attracted our attention; an apartment 
150 feet in length, 33 in width, and containing 22 

[ 14 ] 



THE TOWER OF LONDON 



Equestrian figures, many of them the former Kings 
of England, from Edward 1, 1272, to James II, 1685 ; 
these were in suits of armour as worn when alive, 
and were a most interesting and imposing relic of 
the olden time. Here before us, was Henry VIII, 
Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Devereux, Earl of Essex, 
and Henry, Prince of Wales. What a crowd of as- 
sociations it brought to the mind ! Behind the horse- 
men, were curious arms of various kinds, bearing 
different dates, and specimens of Ordnance up to the 
time of Henry VI. We saw with interest a low room, 
or vault, in the " White Tower," where Sir Walter 
Raleigh is said to have written his " History of the 
World," during his imprisonment. Several inscrip- 
tions are still visible on the walls, and some are at- 
tributed to him. In the "Sea Armoury" were mus- 
kets for sea service, warlike trophies, and ancient 
implements of every description. In the upper storey 
of the " Grand Storehouse," which is a striking edi- 
fice north of the " White Tower," 345 feet loner and 
60 in breadth, is the " Small Armoury " containing 
arms for about 200,000 men, kept clean and bright, 
and arranged in various tasteful, and fanciful forms. 
Through a " douceur " to the Warder, whose theat- 
rical costume, (such as we have seen only on the 

[ 15 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

stage, as belonging to the time of Henry Vll), we 
were admitted to the " Beauchamp Tower," now used 
as a barrack room; here was imprisoned the good, but 
unfortunate Lady Jane Grey and the ill-fated Anne 
Boleyn. An inscription on the wall, near the window, 
gives the number of weeks, hours, and days, of this 
last named Queen's imprisonment, and is supposed 
to have been thus scraped with a nail, or pair of 
scissors, the morning of her execution. The spot 
where this occurred in the court yard below, was 
pointed out, it being distinguished from the others, 
by stones, of another colour. Of course, we visited 
the "Jewel Office," a dark, gloomy apartment, in 
another building, and heard a list of its precious 
contents enumerated by a woman, grown so old in 
this service, that her tones were nearly unintelligible. 
Here are kept the " Regalia, or Crown jewels," the 
" golden sceptre," and " state salt-cellar," and the 
"golden spoon," and other emblems of royalty, used 
at the Coronations. Mrs. Gray's ridiculous account 
of this same old woman, was brought to my mind, 
and I can bear witness, that her amusing description, 
was no exaggeration. 

We dined afterwards with a large party at Mrs. 
Jaudon's, and there met Mr. and Mrs. Cowell, who 

[ 16 ] 



A DISAGREEABLE SCOTCHMAN 

have recently returned from America. Mr. and Mrs. 
Hanky, M.P., Mr. and Mrs. Guthrie, he also, a M.P. 
but an ignorant, and disagreeable Scotchman, who 
shewed his bad taste by depreciating everything 
American, even to our natural scenery. At last, pro- 
voked at this ungentle treatment, and contrary to the 
restrictions, I have imposed on myself, to avoid all 
comparisons, I told him in reply to his question, 
about the relative beauty of the oak trees of England 
and America, that we could show more varieties of 
the oak alone, than his country contained among all 
her forest trees. This fact he seemed to doubt, but 
an appeal on my part to Mrs. Cowell, convinced, and 
surprised my antagonist, and he afterward remained 
silent on the subject. Christopher Hughes, 1 Esquire, 
our charge to Sweden, was one of the guests, and 
Mr. and Mrs. Bates met us in the drawing-room above, 
at coffee. The dinner was altogether agreeable, not- 
withstanding my own propinquity to the honorable 
Mr. Guthrie, M.P. . 

June 13. We went to-day, in company with Mr. 

Kenyon, (who is devoted in his kind attentions), to 

the justly celebrated " British Museum," in Great 

Russell Street, Bloomsbury. Mr. Webster did not 

1 Christopher Hughes, 17S6-1849 ; diplomat. 

[ 17 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

accompany us, preferring to make the visit more 
quietly at some future time. We were first taken to 
the apartment of Mr. Panizzi, 1 the intelligent Italian, 
and librarian ; here was assembled a group of per- 
sons, who had come there, as Mr. Kenyon whispered, 
to get a sight of the " Great Western," the soubri- 
quet they have given Mr. Webster. These persons 
expressed so much regret, and such a keen disap- 
pointment, that Mrs. Webster was induced to send 
the carriage back to Hanover Square, with a mes- 
sage to Mr. W r ebster, by the Footman, desiring him, 
if possible, to return with it, as there were many 
things at the Museum, she particularly wished to 
point out to him herself. In consequence of this, 
Mr. Webster shortly appeared, but he was in no 
small degree annoyed when he learnt the object of 
the summons ; however, the " deed was done," and 
I was amused, as well as touched, at the enthusiasm, 
and interest, the sight of Mr. Webster produced. I 
overheard Kenyon's question, to a young artist, who 
had been following Mr. Webster with admiring eyes : 
" Well — how do you like our head ? " " Glorious, 
magnificent, one of Nature's noblest works. How I 

1 Sir Anthony Panizzi, 1797-1879 ; principal librarian of the 
British Museum. 

[ 18 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER 
From a portrait by Chester Harding 



THE BRITISH MUSEUM 



should like to paint that head ! " This was accom- 
panied with so much enthusiasm of manner, the 
clasping of hands, and rolling of the eyes, that I was 
reminded of somewhat similar scenes, in our own 
dear land. Books of great rarity, and value were 
shown ; the first Bible ever printed ; the only sig- 
nature extant of Shakspeare's handwriting, without 
the letter e in the first syllable as I have here spelt 
it. Illuminated manuscripts of the greatest beauty 
and antiquity ; in short, it is quite impossible to de- 
scribe all the literary wonders so obligingly produced 
on all sides, for our gratification. The library pre- 
sented by George IV, collected by George III at 
Buckingham Palace, is contained in a very spacious, 
and splendid apartment, and the books themselves 
are almost invaluable. Doctor Burney's 1 library is 
also here, purchased by the Government for £13,- 
500 ; it contains nearly 14,000 volumes, and the 
collection of Greek authors is said to be very valu- 
able. There is also a rare series of newspapers from 
1603 to the present time amounting to 7000 vol- 
umes. The famous " Elgin marbles " are here, they 
are interesting specimens of ancient art, and are 
highly prized as models. The " Portland " or " Bar- 
1 Charles Burney, D.D., 1757-1817 ; classical scholar. 
[ 19 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



berini Vase," we ascended a long and high staircase 
to see, and it entirely rewarded our efforts ; it is 
very beautiful, but smaller than I had imagined; 
the material is of the deepest sapphire glass, on 
which are executed in relief, like a cameo, graceful 
opaque white figures. The exact explanation of these 
figures has never, I believe, been satisfactorily ex- 
plained, although there have been many attempts. 
Mr. Kenyon at his own house in Harley Place, pos- 
sesses a fine imitation in Wedgewood, the dying be- 
quest of a friend. The body of his vase wants the 
transparency of the beautiful original. This vase, 
(they give it the French pronunciation here), for 
more than two centuries adorned the Barberini Pal- 
ace in Kome, and was purchased by the Duchess of 
Portland of Sir William Hamilton, * It is said, that 
the Duchess, for a long time, concealed the purchase, 
fearing the ridicule, and censure of her friends, at 
the enormous price paid for this precious relic. It 
was found about the middle of the 16th century, a 
few miles from Kome, enclosed in a marble sarcoph- 
agus, within a sepulchral chamber, and was proba- 
bly a cinerary urn, belonging to the sepulchre. 

1 Sir William Hamilton, 1730-1803 ; diplomatist and archaeolo- 
gist ; husband of Emma Hamilton. 

C 20 ] 



THE ITALIAN OPERA 



In other apartments, we saw mummies, in all their 
different stages, and numerous interesting articles 
from Herculaneum, and Pompeii. An enormous wig, 
of coarse, curly hair, corresponding precisely to the 
drawings of the females, on the vases. In short, there 
was an endless variety of curiosities, in stuffed ani- 
mals, of the vegetable world, and of fossils, medals, 
minerals, sculpture and statuary, sufficient to occupy 
whole months in their examination. 

Dined afterward with Mr. and Mrs. Bates in Port- 
man Square, with no other company but their Daugh- 
ter Madame Van de Weyer, 1 and her Husband, 2 the 
Belgian Minister, whom she has recently married. 
After dinner we went for the first time to the Italian 
Opera, two boxes having been made into one, for the ac- 
commodation of our party of eight. It was Persiani's 
benefit, and a crowded house and the music ! I can- 
not describe its magical effect upon me. Beside Persi- 
ani 3 here was Grisi, 4 Tamburini, 5 Garcia, 6 and Mario. 7 

1 Elizabeth Bates, daughter of Joshua. 

2 Sylvain Van de Weyer, Belgian Minister in London. 

3 Mme. Fanni Persiani, 1812-67; Italian singer. 

4 Giulia Grisi, 1812-69 ; Italian opera singer. 

5 Antonio Tamburini, 1800-76 ; Italian singer. 

3 Michelle Ferdinande Pauline Garcia, 1821-1910; Spanish singer ; 
married, 1840, M. Viardot. 

7 Giuseppe Mario, Marquis di Candia, 1810-83 ; Italian singer. 

C 21 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Rubini 1 was ill, and Lablache 2 the great basso, did 
not perform. Mario is the son of the Governor 
of Nice, but has left his home in displeasure, and 
assumes the " nom de guerre " of Mario ; he is 
rather attractive in personal appearance, and has 
a delightful voice, but the critics say, it still re- 
quires practice and cultivation. After the Opera, we 
had the ballet of " La Gitana," and I saw for the 
first time the celebrated Taglioni. 3 This danseuse 
seems to merit all the extraordinary praise that has 
been bestowed on her, no praise of her grace, can 
be exaggeration. It was indeed " the very poetry of 
motion." She is not handsome, yet far from appearing 
otherwise, and is slightly enclined to " en bon point." 
June 14. The anniversary of my wedding day, 
eight years ago. Breakfasted with an agreeable party 
at Mr. and Mrs. Senior's, 4 Hyde Park Gate. He 
is a scholar, and lawyer of eminence, and she is a 
West Indian. I sat, at table, between Mr. Bingham 
Baring, 5 a charming person, son of Lord Ashbur- 

1 Giovanni Battista Rubini, 1795-1854; Italian singer. 

2 Luigi Lablache, 1794-1858 ; Italian actor and singer. 
8 Marie Sophie Taglioni, 1804-84 ; Swedish danseuse. 

* Nassau William Senior, 1790-1864 ; economist ; Master in Chan- 
cery, 1836-55. 

6 William Bingham Baring, 2d Baron Ashburton, 1799-1864; 

[ 22 ] 



ANOTHER BREAKFAST-PARTY 

ton, 1 and Mr. William Clay.* 2 The former a con- 
servative, and the latter a thorough radical, and I 
was much amused by the good natured quarrelling of 
these two neighbours, on the subject of local politics. 
Mr. Baring kindly expressed great regret, that " there 
was nobody in London ; Devonshire House closed, the 
Duke abroad, the Duchess of Sutherland also absent, 
Lady Jersey, and some others, out of town, and he 
feared we should lose all opportunity, of seeing any- 
thing of London Society." The Earl of Shelburne, 3 
son of the Marquis of Lansdowne, and Lord Lovelace, 4 
who married Ada Byron, 5 were among the guests. 

At dinner at home, Mr. and Mrs. Webster kindly 
drank my Husband's 6 health, in a bottle of cham- 
pagne, more precious here, than in America. 

* Now Sir William Clay. (H. S. P.) 

statesman ; Member of Parliament, 1826-48. His mother was Anne 
Louisa Bingham, of Philadelphia. 

1 Alexander Baring, 1st Baron Ashburton, 1774-1848 ; financier 
and statesman. 

2 Sir William Clay, 1791-1869 ; politician ; merchant in London ; 
Member of Parliament for Tower Hamlets, 1832-57. 

3 Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, Earl of Shelburne, later 4th Marquis 
of Lansdowne, 1816-66 ; Member of Parliament for Calne, 1837-56. 

4 William King-Noel, 1st Earl of Lovelace, 1805-93. 

5 The Honorable Augusta Ada Byron, daughter of George Gor- 
don, 6th Baron Byron, the poet ; married, 1835, William King- 
Noel, 1st Earl Lovelace. 

6 James William Paige, 1792-1868 ; merchant. 

[ 23 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Saturday, June 15. By previous invitation, and 
arrangement, we drove to Chiswick, to visit the 
Horticultural exhibition, in company with, Mr. and 
Mrs. Bates, Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, and Mr. and 
Mrs. George Archibald. The sea of equipages out- 
side the grounds, was astounding to my unpractised 
eye, and within, were vast numbers of gaily dressed 
people, (many ladies wearing embroidered muslins 
over a coloured silk), making an attractive scene to 
a novice, like myself. The exhibition of flowers, was 
very beautiful, particularly the heaths ; they were of 
uncommon size and beauty. The Jlavor of the pine- 
apples growing within, was very powerful, and agree- 
able, but an approach to the tables, for seeing the 
pines, we found, in consequence of the crowd, en- 
tirely impracticable. There we accidentally met Mrs. 
Derby, who left America before ourselves, in a Packet 
Ship, and had with her husband, but recently arrived 
in London. On leaving Chiswick, the crowd of car- 
riages extended as far as the eye could reach, await- 
ing their fair occupants, and yet on reaching " Hyde 
Park," and there driving for an hour, the crowd of 
equipages, seemed in no way diminished, and the 
whole world of fashion seemed congregated there. 
This may afford a slight illustration of the vast pop- 

[ 24 ] 



THE QUEEN'S INVITATION 

ulation, of this "vaster" city, which fills me, the 
longer I remain, with bewildered astonishment, and 
admiration. We had engaged ourselves this evening, 
to a party at Mr. Babbage's, where we were told we 
should meet " some of the cleverest people in Eng- 
land " ; but we have just received through the Lord 
Chamberlain, an invitation, or rather a "command," 
to attend the Queen's 1 ball on Monday night, and we 
must pay a visit of consultation to our dress maker, 
and forego the pleasure of Mr. Babbage's Soiree. 
Our card of invitation is about one fourth the size of 
a large sheet of letter paper, and is thus expressed : 

The Lord Chamberlain is 

commanded by The Queen 
to invite 

Mrs. Paige 

to a Ball on Monday the 

17th June at 10 o'Clock 

Buckingham Palace. Full Dress. 

Sunday morning, June 16. Through the kindness 
of Mr. Charles Augustus Murray, 2 attached to the 
Queen's household, we were to have gone to the 

1 Alexandria Victoria, 1819-1901 ; daughter of Edward, Duke 
of Kent ; ascended the throne, 1837, as Queen Victoria. 

2 Sir Charles Augustus Murray, 1806-95 ; diplomatist and author ; 
Master of the Household, 1S38-44. 

[ 25 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Chapel royal to-day. To our great regret and disap- 
pointment, after the services of all the other churches 
had commenced, came a note from Mr. Murray to 
Mr. Webster, saying that " owing to the departure 
of her cousin Victoria, one of the Princesses of Co- 
burg, the Queen would not attend Chapel to-day, 
and presuming we would prefer to go, when the 
Queen was present, he had postponed sending the 
tickets of admission," and so we lost the opportunity 
of going to church at all. At two o'clock we drove 
to the Zoological Gardens, in company with Captain 
Stockton, an American friend, stopping to lunch on 
our way with Mr. Kenyon in Harley Place. There 
we found Captain Jones, a friend of Kenyon's, and 
Mr. Ogilvie awaiting our coming. This latter is one 
of the Directors of the Zoological Gardens, and " de- 
sired the privilege of escorting Mr. Webster's fam- 
ily there." These gardens are, as their name indi- 
cates, a menagerie of animals, and are situated in the 
N.E. side of Regent's Park ; they are very extensive, 
the grounds are very prettily laid out, and on Sun- 
days, the only day the " canaille " is excluded, form 
a very fashionable promenade. About 9 years ago, 
the animals from the Tower, were presented to this 
Society by King William IV ; they are kept in " pad- 

[ 26 ] 



THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS 

docks," dens, &c, suitable to their various habits, 
and the bears in pits, with a stout pole in the centre, 
on which they climb. The pits are surrounded by a 
high iron railing. The birds are in aviaries, and the 
apes and monkeys are similarly provided for. A ma- 
caw bit Mrs. Webster's hat, and was induced, with 
difficulty, to let go his hold ; he was constantly ask- 
ing « What 's your name " ? The most interesting 
animals to me, were the two Giraffes ; one of these 
was so much attracted by a bunch of wild cherries in 
my chip-hat, attempting several times to reach it with 
his long neck, that I could not approach, without 
his repeating the attempt. We have since learnt that 
a young Giraffe has made its appearance, and " has 
been heard to grunt twice since its birth." We were 
asked to dinner at Mr. Bates', but it being Sunday, 
we begged to be excused. 

Monday, June 17. Drove to " Storr & Morti- 
mer's" this morning, and have been much occupied, 
with arrangements, for the Court ball this evening. 
Mr. Webster dines with Sir William Rolfe, having 
declined invitations from the Marquis of Lansdowne, 
and two or three other persons for to-day. We are 
told, that it is a great privilege to go to a ball at 
Court, before a regular presentation, it being con- 

[ 27 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



trary to etiquette, and that it is a compliment to be 
appreciated, by Mr. Webster and his party. 

Tuesday, June 18. The Queen's ball last night 
was of course very magnificent. Mrs. Webster wore 
an embroidered pink silk, Julia a white tulle over 
satin, trimmed with pink roses, and I was dressed in 
a rose coloured silk with a deep flounce of thread 
lace, the waist trimmed with a berthe to correspond, 
and ornamented also with a garniture of pink and 
silver flowers, and wreath also for the hair of the 
same. Mr. Webster wore a court dress, which was 
exceedingly becoming, consisting of smallclothes, 
white silk stockings, diamond knee and shoe buckles ; 
a coat of the fashion of the last century, lined with 
white satin, with a white satin vest, embroidered in 
colours, and ornamental steel buttons, of the same 
fashion as the coat, point-lace shirt ruffles, and lace 
frills over the hands. To the collar of the coat, be- 
hind, are attached ribbons &c, to give the appear- 
ance of the bag-wig of former times. This costume, 
or uniform, was worn by all the gentlemen present. 
We drove to Buckingham Palace, at 10 o'clock, the 
hour named, and joining the long train of carriages, 
with their liveried footmen, in full costume, soon 
reached the palace door, where were the "yeomen of 

[ 28 ] 



CAROLINE LeROY WEBSTER 
(MRS. DANIEL WEBSTER) 

From a portrait by Savinien-Edine Dubourjal, 1845 



THE QUEEN'S BALL 



the Guard " in their costumes, ranged on each side, 
and a band of very fine music, constantly playing. 
We entered the spacious and magnificent Hall, and 
in an apartment beyond, we deposited our shawls, 
and received from one of the maids in attendance, a 
ticket, with a number, a corresponding one, being 
attached to our garments. Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson 
were awaiting us, and passing rapidly through sev- 
eral very splendid apartments, we found ourselves, in 
a flood of light, amid a crowd of richly dressed people, 
blazing with diamonds, and different orders, there 
awaiting, as I soon learned, the appearance of her 
Majesty. We had barely time to look around us, 
before the doors of the adjoining apartment, called 
the " North Yellow Room " were thrown open, when 
the Queen appeared, preceded by her Chamberlains, 
with long gold sticks, walking backward, facing the 
Queen. Her Majesty was attended by the Duke of 
Sussex 1 her Uncle, and several other members of the 
royal family, their names successively whispered to 
us, as they passed along ; then came the ladies in 
waiting, maids of honor, and so on, in regular order, 
according to the prescribed etiquette. The Queen 
wore a white point lace dress, of the richest pattern, 
1 Augustus Frederick, Duke of Sussex, 1773-1843. 
[ 29 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

family. The Duchess of Kent, 1 sat on one side ; she 
is still a fine looking woman. Seven apartments were 
open, and lighted of course. The picture gallery is a 
very splendid room 164 feet by 28, and runs nearly 
the whole length of the palace. After a short time 
the Queen left the Throne Room, and danced in the 
South yellow drawing room. At one o'clock the sup- 
per rooms were opened, the tables covered with gold 
plate. The dishes were mostly French, and highly 
and tastefully ornamented. An abundance of fruits, 
such as pines, which are very delicious and grown in 
pineries, strawberries and cherries (fruit is more 
costly than with us, and frequently grown under 
glass), champagne, and seltzer water, which they 
mingle with the former, and ices of all kinds, were 
served all the evening previous to supper in another 
apartment, and I believe there was also tea, and cof- 
fee. The side-board was in a raised niche, covered, 
and hung with crimson velvet, and ornamented with 
massive gold candelabra, and wax candles, and was 
literally groaning under the weight of the very superb 
gold plate with which it was covered. This exhibition 
struck us all, as magnificent in the extreme, not only 

1 Victoria Maria Louisa, daughter of Francis Frederick Antony, 
Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Saalf eld; married, 1818, Edward, Duke of Kent. 

C 32 ] 



A BLAZE OF JEWELRY 



beyond what we had ever seen, but what we had 
ever dreamed of. The blaze of jewelry was also 
astounding. The Marchioness of Londonderry 1 is 
quite celebrated for her profusion of diamonds, and 
on this occasion, she was literally covered ; from the 
large sprigs on the front-skirt of her dress, to the 
neck of her dress, her gloves, and around the waist, 
she was a glitter of diamonds, and a coronet of bril- 
liants around her head. The Princess Doria's 2 dia- 
monds were also very splendid, and were shown to 
advantage, with her black dress. Prince Esterhazy's 3 
jewels, have always been celebrated, and on this 
occasion he displayed a broad band of diamonds, 
over his crimson velvet coat ; his sword-case was en- 
tirely covered with these precious gems, mingled 
with pearls, and so was his cartridge box. Being an 
Ambassador, from a foreign court, of course, his 
dress was that of his own country (Austria). He 

1 Lady Frances Anne Emily Vane-Tempest, daughter of Sir 
Henry, Baronet ; married, 1819, Charles William Stewart, 3d Mar- 
quis of Londonderry, who, upon his marriage, took the name of 
Vane in lieu of that of Stewart. She died 1865. 

2 Mary Alathea Beatrix Talbot, daughter of John, 16th Earl 
of Shrewsbury ; married, 1839, Philip Andrew, Prince Doria Pam- 
philj Landi. 

8 Prince Paul Antoine Esterhazy von Galantha, 1786-1866 ; Aus- 
trian diplomatist ; Ambassador to England, 1839. 



[ 33 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



carried in bis baud, his cap, the jewels upon which 
are of inestimable value, a handsome fortune alone, 
it is said. Esterhazy's wealth is unbounded. It 
is said of him, that on a recent visit to Holkham 
Hall, the Earl of Leicester,* during a walk over the 
grounds, called Prince Esterhazy's attention to his 
vast flocks of sheep, amounting to 300 in number, 
being greater than belong to any other estate in 
Great Britain. Esterhazy bestowed just praise upon 
this display, and then remarked that he on his 
estates, " had as many shepherds." And this is said 
to be literally true. 

The Duchess of Sutherland, 2 although not so youth- 
ful as the portraits represent her, is still a superb 
woman. She is Mistress of the Kobes to the Queen. 
She is called the best dressed woman in England. 
On this occasion, she was attired in simple mourn- 
ing, for the loss of a child, and had just returned 
from the Continent, a day or two before. She is cer- 
tainly a very striking and favorable specimen of " a 

1 Thomas William Coke, of Holkham, 1st Earl of Leicester, 
1752-1S42 ; agriculturist ; " Coke of Norfolk." 

3 Harriet Elizabeth Georgiana Howard, daughter of George, 6th 
Earl of Carlisle ; married, 1823, George Granville Sutherland-Leve- 
Bon-Gower, 3d Duke of Sutherland ; Mistress of the Robes, 1837- 
41; a great friend of Queen Victoria. 

[ 34 ] 



GUESTS AT THE BALL 



highborn English dame." Mr. Webster introduced 
me to Lord Melbourne, 1 whom 1 thought a hand- 
some man, with an agreeable physiognomy. I was 
also presented to Lord Durham, 2 the Marquis of 
Lansdowne, 3 and a variety of other distinguished 
personages, both male, and female. We left the dan- 
cing room at two o'clock, but owing to the crowd of 
carriages, did not reach our lodgings until three 
o'clock, when it was quite daylight. We were not a 
little amused, while waiting our turn, in the ante- 
room, in listening to the call of the different car- 
riages, the titled names of their owners, echoing from 
servant to servant, from hall to staircase, and from 
room to room. " The Marquis of Anglesey's 4 carriage 
stops the way." The Marquis appeared, his limp- 
ing gait attesting his identity ; he wears a substitute 
for one leg, buried at Waterloo. "The Marquis of 
Westminster's carriage," and soon the wealthy pos- 
sessor of "Eaton Hall" advanced toward the en- 

• 1 William Lamb, 2d Viscount Melbourne, 1779-1848 ; statesman ; 
adviser to Queen Victoria, 1837-41. 

2 Johu George Lambton, 1st Earl of Durbam, 1792-1840 ; states- 
man. 

3 Sir Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, 3d Marquis of Lansdowne, 17S0- 
1863 ; statesman. 

4 Sir Henry William Paget, 1st Marquis of Anglesey, 1768-1854 ; 
soldier. 

[ 35 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

trance, the Marchioness l on his arm ; they were fol- 
lowed by the " Countess of Jersey," the " Earl 2 and 
Countess of Normanby," 3 "Viscount Powerscourt," 4 
"Lord 5 and Lady Burghersh," 6 and many others, 
whose names now quite escape my recollection. We 
made the acquaintance of Lady Georgiana Fane, 7 
daughter of the Earl of Westmoreland, of Lord 8 
and Lady Wharncliffe, 9 and their son, 10 and daugh- 

1 Eleanor Egerton, daughter of Thomas, 1st Earl of Wilton ; 
married, 1794, Robert Grosvenor, 1st Marquis of Westminster; 
died, 1846, aged 76. 

2 Sir Constantino Henry Phipps, 1st Marquis of Normanby, 1797- 
1863 ; was 2d Earl of Mulgrave ; statesman ; Secretary for War 
and the Colonies, 1839, and Home Secretary, 1839-41. 

8 The Honorable Maria Liddell, daughter of Thomas Henry, 1st 
Baron Ravensworth ; married, 1818, Sir Constantine Henry Phipps, 
1st Marquis of Normanby. 

4 Richard Wingfield, 6th Viscount Powerscourt, 1815-44. 

5 John Fane, Lord Burghersh, later 11th Earl of Westmoreland, 
1784-1859 ; musical composer and author of military memoirs. 

6 Priscilla Anne Wellesley-Pole, daughter of the Right Honor- 
able William, Lord Maryborough, Earl of Mornington ; married, 
1811, John Fane, Lord Burghersh. 

7 Cecily Jane Georgiana Fane, daughter of John, 10th Earl of 
Westmoreland ; died, 1874. 

8 James Archibald Stuart- Wortley-Mackenzie, 1st Baron Wharn- 
cliffe, 1776-1845 ; statesman. 

9 Caroline Elizabeth Mary Crighton, daughter of John, 1st Earl 
of Erne ; married, 1799, James Archibald Stuart- Wortley-Macken- 
zie, 1st Baron Wharncliffe ; died, 1856, aged 78. 

10 John Stuart-Wortley, later Stuart- Wortley-Mackenzie, 2d 
Baron Wharncliffe, 1S01-55 ; published pamphlets and an economic 
work. 

[ 36 ] 



MAKING AND RECEIVING CALLS 

ter; the latter is Lady Georgiana Stuart-Wortley, 1 
daughter of the Earl of Harrowby. 

June 18. 2 We drove in Hyde Park after a very 
late breakfast, and made ten visits, that is, we left 
our cards, and returned, to find we had received as 
many more. Among them are the cards of Lord 3 
and Lady Lyndhurst, 4 the Earl and Countess of 
Lovelace, Viscount Palmerston, 5 Lord 6 and Lady 
Denman, 7 Lord and Lady Burghersh, Sir Charles 8 
and Lady Bagot, 9 Viscount Morpeth, 10 &c. We have 
refused two or three invitations to dinner, in conse- 

1 Georgiana Elizabeth Ryder, daughter of Dudley, 1st Earl of 
Harrowby ; married, 1825, John Stuart- Wortley, later Stuart- Wort- 
ley-Mackenzie, 2d Baron Wharncliffe ; died, 1884, aged 80. 

2 The date is repeated. 

8 John Singleton Copley, Baron Lyndhurst, 1772-1863; Lord 
Chancellor ; son of John Singleton Copley, 1737-1815, the artist. 

4 Georgiana Goldsmith, daughter of Lewis ; married, 1837, as his 
second wife, John Singleton Copley, Baron Lyndhurst. 

5 Henry John Temple, 3d Viscount Palmerston, 17S4-1865; 
statesman. 

8 Thomas Denman, 1st Baron Denman, 1779-1854 ; Lord Chief 
Justice. 

7 Theodosia Anne Vevers, daughter of the Reverend Richard ; 
married, 1804, Thomas Denman, 1st Baron Denman ; died, 1852. 

8 Sir Charles Bagot, 1781-1843 ; Governor-General of Canada. 

9 Mary Charlotte Anne Wellesley-Pole, daughter of William, 
Lord Maryborough, Earl of Mornington ; married, 1806, Sir Charles 
Bagot ; died, 1845. 

10 George William Frederick Howard, Viscount Morpeth, later 
7th Earl of Carlisle, 1802-64 ; statesman ; Member of Parliament 
for the West Riding, 1832-41 ; admitted to the Cabinet, 1839. 

[ 37 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



quence of Mr. Webster's engagement, of some stand- 
ing, to dine with Sir Robert Harry Inglis. 1 In the 
evening we attended the Opera again, and had Lady 
Wombwell's box, and returned more charmed than 
ever, with the divine music of " Lucretia Borgia " 
and the singing of Giulia Grisi. 

June 19. An anniversary always saddened by the 
loss of the best of Mothers eleven years ago. 

" Could one wish bring thee, would I wish thee here ? 
I dare not trust my heart — the dear delight 
Seems to be so desired, perhaps I might : 
But, no ; what we here call our life is such, 
So little to be loved, and thou so much, 
That I should ill requite thee to restrain 
Thy unbound spirit into bonds again." 

We dined with Mr. 2 and Mrs. Grote ; « the for- 
mer is a member of Parliament of strong Whig 
principles, living in Eccleston Street. Mrs. Grote 
has the reputation of extraordinary abilities. She is 
a large, tall, masculine woman, and a great poli- 
tician, and has been accused (doubtless unjustly), of 
having written for him, her Husband's parliamentary 

1 Sir Robert Harry Inglis, 2d baronet, 1786-1855 ; Tory poli- 
tician. 

2 George Grote, 1794-1871; Historian; Member of Parliament 
for the City of London, 1832-41. 

8 Harriet Lewin, 1792-1878 ; biographer ; married George Grote 
1820. 

[ 38 ] 



DINNER WITH MR. GROTE 

speeches. They have no children. I have thought 
that the English women were much better versed in 
politics generally, and more adequate for conversa- 
tion on these topics, than the women of our own 
country. On my left, was Sir William Molesworth, 1 
a young man of talents, and liberal politics, a son of 
the late Baronet. Mr. Charles Austin 2 sat on my 
right hand. With the Aunt of this young barrister, 
we were engaged, to breakfast a week ago, when the 
illness of her husband Mr. Austin, prevented. Mrs. 
Grote had a large party beside, as seems to be cus- 
tomary here after a dinner. Contrary to the remon- 
strances of our hostess, we were obliged to leave, 
being first engaged for an hour to Mrs. Senior, and 
afterward to an agreeable party at Mrs. Stevenson's, 
where we met Mr. 3 and Mrs. H. Joy, 4 cousins to our 
friends and relatives in America; 5 also Mr. N. P. 
Willis, 6 who is now in England. 

1 Sir William Molesworth, 8th baronet, 1810-55 ; politician. 

3 Charles Austin, 1799-1874 ; lawyer. 

8 Henry Hall Joy, 1786-1840 ; Queen's Councillor. His grand- 
father and father were Loyalists at the time of the Revolution. 

4 Mary Charlotte Greenalgh, daughter of James ; married Henry 
Hall Joy. 

6 Ellen Marion White, 1S12-61 ; daughter of Stephen and sister 
of Mrs- Paige ; married, 1S35, John Benjamin Joy, 1814-64. 
6 Nathaniel Parker Willis, 1806-67 ; poet and writer. 

[ 39 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



June 20. To-day is the Queen's drawing-room, 
which Mrs. Webster and myself are to attend with 
Mrs. Stevenson, we cannot say " to be presented " 
as that has already taken place, at the Ball ; Julia 
having there satisfied her curiosity declines going, 
but has gone with Mrs. Bates, to a house near St. 
James' Palace to witness the show of the passing 
carriages, in full liveries for this great occasion. The 
Queen's hair-dresser has just received his guinea, 
after having " coiffed me a la mode," with seven 
high white ostrich feathers, blonde lappets, and a 
bandeau of diamonds. Mrs. Murray the Queen's 
dressmaker, has sent home the rest of my costume ; it 
consists of a tulle dress, richly trimmed with puff- 
ings of the same on the bottom of the skirt, over 
this, another tulle petticoat, the whole front of which 
is fully trimmed with flowers, and white satin rib- 
bon, beneath the lace dress is a satin, and over this, 
comes another skirt, or train of apricot silk, three 
yards in length, without a front breadth, displaying 
the flowers, and trimming of the lace dress beneath. 
Mrs. Webster wears a similar under-dress ; her train 
being of blue silk, both trains are full trimmed all 
around and lined with white sarcenet. 

C 40 3 



THE QUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM 

We published, the other day, for the gratification of 
our lady readers, the description of Mrs. Webster's dress, 
on presentation to the Queen. We find, in the Court Jour- 
nal, the following account of the costumes worn by Mrs. 
Stevenson, and Mrs. Paige. 

Mrs. Stevenson (the American Minister's lady) Cos- 
tume de Cour, composed of a rich pink satin train, lined 
through with white gros de Naples, elegantly ornamented 
with crape lisse, blonde, and flowers ; blonde berthe and 
sabots ; French tulle dress, over rich white satin ; petti- 
coat trimmed en tablier with blonde and ribbon. Head 
dress, blonde lappets and feathers ; parure of diamonds. 

Mrs. Paige. Train of rich apricot glace gros de Naples, 
trimmed with blonde ; blonde mantilla and ruffles; petti- 
coat and tunic of tulle, over satin, festooned with bouquets 
of heath and apple blossom. Head dress, feathers and 
blonde lappets ; ornaments, diamonds. 1 

June 21. At two o'clock yesterday, we drove to 
Mrs. Stevenson's, according to appointment. In her 
drawing-rooms we found the other ladies, who were 
to be presented, and a still larger party who had as- 
sembled as spectators. Returning again to our car- 
riages, we were set down at the Ambassadors' entree, 
at St. James's, and after ascending a staircase, walked 
through several passages, lined with very decently 
dressed females, who were there seated, patiently 
waiting to catch a glimpse of the passing court cos- 

1 Newspaper clipping. 
[ « ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



tumes. Mrs. Bronson of New York was in the car- 
riage with Mrs. Webster and myself; and the re- 
mainder of the party, through an accident, were 
detained for twenty minutes after we had reached 
the ante-room. After their arrival, and giving our 
names to the Secretary, to be inserted in a book 
kept for the purpose, we all passed " en train " to 
the adjoining apartment, filled with the Ambassa- 
dors, Ministers &c, awaiting their turn to appear 
before their Sovereign. This was the privileged en- 
tree; another apartment the passage to which, was 
guarded, by the officers of the household, and the 
communication between, partly prevented by brass 
railings, was also filled with expectant faces, and 
evening feathers, and glittering jewelry. The effect 
of this full dress, by daylight, and the warmth of a 
July atmosphere, was peculiar. The other American 
ladies who were of our party at this presentation 
were, Mrs. Chase of Louisiana, whose train was of 
green uncut velvet, Mrs. Jaudon, who wore one of 
blue brocaded satin, Miss Murray of New York, 
who wore a pink watered silk train, Mrs. Bronson, 
who (being in mourning), wore white watered silk, 
and Miss Low, who also had a pink train and petti- 
coat of tulle. At the head of the room, where we 

[ 42 ] 



THE QUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM 



had assembled, were two doors. These were very 
shortly opened, with some ceremony. Our party was 
the second, and following Mrs. Webster, preceded 
by Mrs. Stevenson, we slowly entered the left hand 
door, and found ourselves immediately in the pres- 
ence of her " little Majesty." The Queen was stand- 
ing upon the throne, or raised platform, and ranged 
on each side, were the Duchess of Kent, Duchess of 
Gloucester * and other female members, of the Royal 
familv. The Queen courtesied and we did the same, 
first looking at her Majesty, and then at those at 
either side, who of course acknowledged it, by doing 
the like. The Groom of the Chambers, as we en- 
tered, arranged our long trains in folds, upon the 
floor, and immediately after the ceremony, he raised 
them up, and placing them like a drapery over our 
left arm, we left the presence chamber, and facing 
all the while the Queen, we passed out of the right 
hand door into the same apartment we had left. 
Here at a greater distance, we could still witness 
the presentations ; but beside this, there was much 
to engross our attention in this apartment. We were 
favored with an introduction to many distinguished 

l Princess Mary, daughter of George III, 1776-1857 ; married 
1816, William Frederick, Duke of Gloucester. 

[ 43 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

people, and many others were pointed out to us, not 
before known. Here, I had the great satisfaction of 
seeing, the Duke of Wellington, 1 the most remark- 
able man in all England, without doubt. On his 
arm was timidly leaning, his daughter-in-law, the 
young Marchioness of Douro, 2 just a bride, and 
this her presentation by the Duke. I was much 
struck with her beauty, and the elegant simplicity 
of her dress, a point lace, over satin, and three rows 
of large diamonds, each in a separate setting, extend- 
ing down the waist, to the point of the long boddice. 
Mrs. Murray the dressmaker, told me, that she and 
her Daughter must sit up all the night through, in 
order to accomplish the sewing on of these jewels, 
the bridal gift of her distinguished Father-in-law. 
The Marchioness' whole " tournure " was in admir- 
able taste. The Princess Doria was also present, and 
I heard herself, and the young Marchioness called 
the " twin stars of the Queen's drawing-room." We 
remained in this ante-room about three quarters of 

1 Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, 1762-1852 ; field 
marshal ; leader of Conservative Opposition in House of Lords, 
1835-41. 

2 Lady Elizabeth Hay, daughter of George, 8th Marquis of 
Tweeddale ; married 1839, Arthur Richard Wellesley, Marquis of 
Douro, later 2d Duke of Wellington. 

[ 44 ] 



DINNER WITH MRS. DENISON 

an hour, and having satisfied our curiosity, we pre- 
pared to depart. The female attendants below, neatly 
arranged our troublesome trains, like a shawl over 
our shoulders, and we drove back to our lodgings. 
Before exchanging our dresses, we paid a visit to 
our friends, Mrs. Green, Mrs. Amory, and Mrs. 
Hammond who are also our fellow lodgers at " the 
Brunswick." At 7 o'clock, we went to dine with 
Mrs. Denison, and her Son, the Bishop of Salis- 
bury. 1 The latter is distinguished as being the 
youngest, among all the English Protestant bishops. 
Here we met an intelligent Scotch gentleman named 
Dundas. A Mr. Wood, related to Earl Grey 2 sat 
on my left, and Mr. Colville, an agreeable per- 
son, on my right. Baron 3 and Lady Parke were 
also present, at dinner. They have two beautiful and 
interesting daughters, who seem to be great favor- 
ites in society. A large party assembled after dining, 
with many new faces, but the most interesting per- 
son to me, was the lovely bride elect, of our kind 
host, the Bishop. She is a Miss Seymer, 4 and the 

1 Edward Denison, 1801-54, Bishop of Salisbury. 

2 Charles Grey, 2d Earl Grey, 1764-1845 ; statesman. 
8 Sir James Parke, 17S2-1S6S ; judge. 

4 Louisa Maria Seymer, daughter of Henry Ker ; married 1839, 
Edward Denison, Bishop of Salisbury ; died 1841. 

[ 45 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

nuptials are only postponed for a very short period, 
in consequence of a death, in the family of the lady. 
She was dressed in deep mourning, which added to 
the charm and interest of her beauty. At half past 
11 o'clock, after once more exchanging our dresses 
for lighter ones, of tulle and flowers, we went to a 
magnificent fete at the town house of the Marquis of 
Westminster, in Grosvenor Street, whose magnificent 
mansion " Eaton Hall," in Cheshire county, I have 
previously described, it being one of four splendid 
country seats. This present house, stands one hun- 
dred feet from the street, the way up to which was 
temporarily covered, and prettily ornamented, with 
greens, flags, and various devices. Our carriage set 
us down at this entrance, and soon, were our names 
echoing, from servant, to servant, and from room to 
room, until after promenading through five splendid 
apartments, we entered the sixth one (the ball-room), 
through a large window ; this was very spacious, 
temporarily built over the grounds, and garden, and 
adorned with flags, and every variety of rare plants, 
and growing shrubs. At the extremity of this room 
hung a crimson curtain, which after the lapse of 
about half an hour, was raised, discovering a supper 
table, splendidly furnished with gold plate, and cov- 

[ 46 ] 



THE QUEEN'S DANCING 



ered with every luxury, and device, both of nature 
and of art. Pines in abundance, surmounting a sil- 
ver gilt basket, filled with cherries, strawberries, 
and other costly fruits grown, under glass. The con- 
fectionery was very beautiful, and new to me. As 
"her Majesty" (I quote' from the morning paper), 
" did the Marquis of Westminster the distinguished 
honour of being present," another supper-room for 
herself, and the other members of the Koyal family 
was simultaneously opened, on the opposite side of 
the suite of apartments. The Queen was dressed in 
a blue crepe, over white, ornamented with roses, the 
centre of each, being set with a large brilliant, and 
a wreath of roses on her head, each rose with one of 
these precious gems. The Queen does not sanction 
the wearing of feathers, in dancing ; this is consid- 
ered decided " mauvais ton." Her Majesty when 
not dancing (which she did constantly), sat on a 
raised platform, on one side of the ball-room, sur- 
rounded by her family, Court, and also by the Mar- 
chioness of Westminster. The " gold stick in wait- 
ing," stood at the foot, and with a low bow, on 
receiving her Majesty's orders, respecting the part- 
ner she might choose for the ensuing dance, he then 
bached from the presence, with the happy announce- 

[ 47 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



ment to the envied partner and he appearing, and 
taking the Queen's fingers, led her to the dance. 
Once, I observed the young and handsome Marquis 
of Douglas,* l son of the Duke of Hamilton to be 
the favored personage ; it was whispered that he 
was thought to be a prodigious favorite, and that 
the Royal eye was kindly bent in that quarter. The 
Queen herself must take the lead in conversation, 
and no remark is made except in reply to those of 
her Majesty. She dances well, and appears con- 
scious of it too. Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, their rel- 
atives, Mr. 2 and Mrs. Abraham Van Buren 3 and the 
attache Mr. Singleton (brother to Mrs. Van Buren), 
were the only Americans present, beside ourselves. 

* Lord Douglas reminded me strongly of John Sullivan, 1 but he 
is considerably taller, and a very handsome, elegant man; he is 
cousin to Mr. Charles A. Murray, and married afterward, the Prin- 
cess Mary 2 of Baden. (H. S. P.) 

1 John Turner Sargent Sullivan, 1813-48 ; lawyer. 

2 Princess Marie Amelie Elizabeth Caroline, daughter of Charles 
Louis Frederick, reigning Grand Duke of Baden, and cousin of 
Napoleon III ; married, 1843, William Alexander Anthony Archi- 
bald Hamilton, Marquis of Douglas. 

1 William Alexander Anthony Archibald Hamilton, Marquis of 
Douglas, later 11th Duke of Hamilton, 1811-63. 

2 Abraham Van Buren, 1S07-73, son of President Van Buren ; 
soldier. 

8 Angelica Singleton, 1820 (?) -78 ; daughter of Richard ; mar- 
ried, 1838, Abraham Van Buren. She was niece of Andrew Steven- 
son. 

[ 48 ] 



BREAKFAST WITH MR. MILMAN 

Weippert's splendid band of 26 gave us the finest 
music, and the whole scene was truly one of delight, 
and enchantment. After supper, we went to enjoy 
the rare paintings in the "gallery." This is 150 
feet long, and contains some of the rarest works of 
the old masters in England, particularly four very 
large, and valuable " Rubens," in quite a different 
style, from anything I had ever seen, of this great 
artist. We were presented to many people, and 
were gratified at seeing many more, known by name 
and reputation. We returned to our lodgings in 
time, to see the daylight dawn, sorely fatigued both 
in mind and body. 

Friday, June 21. 1 Breakfasted with the Rev'd. 
Mr. Milman 2 and his pretty, and interesting wife. 
He is an author, a poet, as well as one of the Pre- 
bendaries of Westminster Abbey, and his house 
communicates through the gardens, with the Abbey 
itself. Before leaving home Mr. Webster received a 
note from Mr. Milman, stating that " he thought 
proper to inform him, that his children were ailing 
with the whooping cough, in case Miss Webster had 

1 The date is repeated. 

2 Henry Hart Milman, 1791-1868 ; Dean of St. Paul's ; Rector 
of St. Margaret's, Westminster, 1835. 

C 49 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

not yet had that distressing complaint." Mr. Mil- 
man entertained an idea, that Miss "Webster was yet 
a child, which mistake caused some merriment, when 
she appeared. Lockhart was present (we had previ- 
ously met him at a soiree at Miss Rogers') ; Taylor, 1 
the author of Philijj von Artevelde, Mr. Thurwell a 
professor at Cambridge, the Eev'd. Mr. Harness, 
an unmarried clergyman, and Miss Cockle, sister to 
Mrs. Milman were the guests. After breakfast, by 
a private passage, we entered with the above men- 
tioned party Westminster Abbey, and I saw for the 
first time, the interior of this glorious edifice, hal- 
lowed by time, and a thousand associations of the 
past. I had the good fortune to go over a large por- 
tion, on the arm of Lockhart, and found him full 
of charming conversation and poetical allusions. 
Lockhart has the misfortune of being a little deaf, 
and the consciousness of this infirmity gives him the 
appearance, and reputation, of being both haughty, 
and reserved, but I should do him great injustice, 
if on this occasion, I did not acknowledge myself, 
much charmed, with the son-in-law of Scott, and 
separated from him with a strong desire for a more 
intimate acquaintance. 

1 Sir Henry Taylor, 1800-86; author. 
[ 50 ] 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY 



" It has been my wont, 
To pause o'er some fine thought, and feel that he 
Who gave it utterance was my friend." 

Respecting the Abbey itself, I could say much, 
but volumes are already filled, with far better de- 
scriptions than mine, of this time-honored and beauti- 
ful structure. I can hardly say, whether I was more 
struck with the rich Gothic of its vast exterior, 
or overwhelmed with all the historic associations 
that crowded on my mind, in walking among the 
tombs, and viewing the achievements of the " illus- 
trious dead" ; the scene itself, 

" Became religion, and the heart ran o'er 
With silent worship of the great of old." 

I paused before the tombs of "Marie Stuart," 
and of the " Virgin Queen." A horizontal marble 
fionire or efiVv, adorns the tomb of each, and is 
supposed to bear somewhat of a resemblance ; Queen 
Bess is much flattered, for this is more prepossess- 
ing than is inferred by most descriptions of her per- 
sonal appearance. Poor Mary, looks gentle, and in- 
capable of the black crime attributed to her. Here 
is quite observable that beauty of feature for which 
all the race of Plantagenet,* was said, to be so re- 

* The effigy of Henry III (a Plantagenet) is of gilt brass, and 
well executed. Another of Edward III lies extended on a grey 

[ 51 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

markable. The very ancient tombs were deeply inter- 
esting ; the remains of the paint, and gilt, with which 
it was formerly the custom to ornament the figures, is 
still visible, and in many instances the tombs have 
been restored by the descendants of the deceased. 
We saw the tomb of the " brave Andre " l highly orna- 
mented with emblems, and figures; his remains were 
not long since exhumed, and brought from America 
to their present resting place. A statue of "Watt" 2 
the energetic steam supporter, by Chantrey; Isaac 
Watts 3 the divine, and Milton, and Chaucer, and 
Dryden, and many, many others " known to fame " ; 
the list is endless, of kings, heroes, and statesmen, 
whose remains lie here. I greatly admired a marble 
figure of a female beggar in a sitting posture, weep- 
ing on the tomb of " a lady known for her char- 
ities." Lockhart remarked on leaving the Abbey, 
that " he had never seen it so thoroughly, or enjoyed 
it so highly." We afterward went to the "record 
office " and saw a number of literary curiosities, two 

marble slab, and at its head, the shield, and sword of this prince, 
the latter, seven feet long. (H. S. P.) 

1 John Andre", 1751-80 ; major. 

2 James Watt, 1736-1819 ; engineer. 

8 Isaac Watts, 1674-1748 ; divine and hymn writer. 

C 52 ] 



DOMESDAY BOOK 



or three " papal bulls," and the original Domesday 
book. The following is the ancient description of the 

" Domesday book." 

" Then King William to learn the worth of his land, 
Let enquiry stretch throughout all England, 
How many plough land and hiden also, 
Here in every shire, and what they were worth thereto ; 
And the rents of each town, and the waters each one, 
The worth, and woods eke, and wastes where lived none ; 
By that he wist what he were worth of all England, 
And set it clearly forth that all might understand, 
And had it clearly written, and that script he put I wis 
In the treasurie of Westminster, where it still is." 

Saturday, June 22. We were all asked by Lord 
Morpeth, son of the Earl of Carlisle, and brother 
to the Duchess of Sutherland, to a breakfast, at 5 
o'clock, at the villa of the Duke of Devonshire at 
Chiswick, but we had a long standing engagement to 
dine with Mr. and Mrs. Bates in Portland Place at 
7 o'clock, and had already declined invitations from 
Lord and Lady Lyndhurst for the same hour, and 
day. Many friends urged our attending this fete", and 
boats were promised to procure our arrival in town, 
in season for the dinner, but on consulting with Mrs. 
Bates, we found her somewhat opposed, to this plan, 
and in justice to our kind friend, we gave up this 
truly tempting excursion. 

[ 53 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Sir Thomas Baring, 1 and bis Daughter were among 
the guests in Portland Place, and the former told me, 
as he sat on my right at dinner, that both himself 
and Miss Baring had just returned from the villa at 
Chiswick, and that the fete was very successful, and 
delightful. Lord 2 and Lady Radstock, 3 Mr. La- 
bouchere, 4 my right hand neighbor, and the Rev'd. 
Sydney Smith 5 were among the guests. This last 
named is a celebrated wit, and writer, and is a canon 
of St. Paul's. After dinner we went to a Soiree at 
Mr. Babbage's, where we met a younger sister of Miss 
Edgeworth, 6 rather a peculiar looking person, with 
short, and dark curly hair. We also, chatted some 
time with Miss Jane Porter. 7 She is a thin person, 
not at all handsome, but with a sensible, and agree- 
able physiognomy, dressed in black in quite an old- 
fashioned style; I should suppose her about fifty 
years old. She made many enquiries about our country, 

i Thomas Baring:, 1799-1873; financier. 

2 George Granville Waldegrave, 2d Baron Radstock, 1786-1857; 
rice-admiral. 

3 Esther Caroline Puget, daughter of James ; married, 1823, 
George Granville Waldegrave, 2d Baron Radstock. 

4 Henry Labouchere, 1st Baron Taunton, 1798-1869 ; statesman ; 
Under-Secretary of War and the Colonies, 1S39. 

6 Sydney Smith, 1771-1845 ; Canon of St. Paul's. 

6 Maria Edgeworth, 1767-1S49 ; novelist. 

7 Jane Porter, 1776-1850 ; novelist. 

[ 54 ] 



THE CHAPEL ROYAL 



and expressed the highest reverence, and admiration, 
for the character of Washington. 

Sunday, June 23. Mr. Charles Augustus Murray 
sent us tickets last evening, for the Chapel Royal 
this morning, and wrote word that her Majesty would 
be present, and to the Chapel Royal therefore, we 
went, and saw the Queen in her " closet " which is 
similar in external appearance to the orchestra of 
our own churches. The Dowager Queen Adelaide x 
was also there. The doors, and passages were crowded 
with people, trying to catch a glimpse of the Queen. 
The cathedral ceremony, to my Puritan eyes, savours 
greatly of the Catholic, the services here, were per- 
formed by four or five different clergymen, and the 
psalter, and responses all chanted. Julia went to the 
church called, " St. Martin's-in-the-Fields," at the in- 
vitation of another friend. On our return from church 
we went, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Bates, to 
pay a visit to Lady Wellesley, 2 who had been for 
some weeks confined by indisposition to the house. 

1 Adelaide Louisa Theresa Caroline Amelia, daughter of George, 
Duke of Saxe-Meiningen ; married, 1818, William IV; died 1849. 

2 Marianne (Caton) Patterson, daughter of Richard Caton of 
Maryland, and widow of Robert Patterson ; married, 1825, Richard 
Wellesley, Marquis Wellesley, Governor-General of India; died 
1853. 



C 65 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



l 



This celebrated granddaughter of Charles Carroll, 
is still a superb woman, and although thin, and pallid, 
by illness, possesses the remains of great beauty and 
.charm of manner, for which latter, she is quite con- 
spicuous. I thought her intelligent and gentle. She 
made several enquiries respecting the last court draw- 
ing-room, and remarked, that not being herself able to 
attend, " the Duke " had sent for her inspection, 
the diamonds, that afterwards ornamented the dress 
of her niece, the Marchioness of Douro, and that Mrs. 
Murray was occupied from early in the morning, 
until the hour for going to court, in sewing on the 
diamonds, of the boddice alone. 

The Rev'd. Sydney Smith had asked us to tea quite 
unceremoniously, and there we met his two married 
daughters, with their Husbands, and several agreeable 
gentlemen, among them Professor Smyth * 2 of Cam- 
bridge College, who excited our curiosity somewhat, 
by taking Mr. Webster into an adjoining room, for 
a " private conference," but we found afterward, it 
was only to request, that when Mr. Webster proposed 

* Regius Professor of History. (H. S. P.) 

1 Charles Carroll, 1737-1832 ; politician ; signer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence. 

2 William Smyth, 1765-1849; Professor of Modern History at 
Cambridge. 

[ 56 ] 



TEA WITH SYDNEY SMITH 



visiting Cambridge, he would previously inform Pro- 
fessor Smyth of his intention by letter. 

Mrs. Smith is a kind, motherly woman, whom we 
had not before seen. We were served with ice-cream 
in small plates, and afterward with goblets of iced 
water. Mr. Smith is now an advocate for the tem- 
perance cause, and gives his friends no beverage 
stronger than tea. 

Monday, June 24. We drove down to the " city " 
this morning, and spent some time in looking at the 
treasures at Rundell & Bridge's shop, and saw many 
articles of gold and silver, of great weight and beauty, 
and jewels of inestimable value. From there, we 
went to a manufactory of painted slate tables, a 
new discovery ; they are much handsomer than the 
scagliola, and the polish beside being finer, will not 
injure by time or using. We saw one in daily use, 
which had been so, uncovered, for three years, and 
quite fresh and uninjured. I think this must super- 
sede all other articles for centre-table tops &c. Two 
that were ordered by an American friend were very 
handsome, and finished ready for mounting. From 
thence we went to St. Paul's cathedral, which was 
built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1675. 

The vastness of the interior is very striking, bnt 

[ 57 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the exterior is so blackened by the smoke of London, 
that its beauty of architecture is almost lost ; and 
then the Corinthian order is so much less imposing 
than the Gothic of Westminster Abbey. We visited 
the " whispering gallery," and ascended to the dome, 
and saw London from its exterior ; went also to the 
library, and descended to the crypt where are the 
tombs of many conspicuous men. The remains of 
Nelson lie in the centre of the church, over which is 
his tomb. The visit was one of great interest, and I 
much regretted the absence of Julia, who had gone to 
ride, with " Fanny," and her Master (Mr. Senior), 
to breakfast at Richmond Hill, with Mrs. Austin. 

At seven o'clock we dined with the Earl of Sel- 
kirk,! his Mother, the Countess of Selkirk, 2 and the 
two daughters, Ladies Isabella 3 and Katherine 4 
Douglas. Lord Selkirk's acquaintance we all had 
the pleasure of making shortly before leaving Amer- 
ica, and Mr. Webster, just before our embarkation, 
received from his Lordship a present of a valuable 
fowling piece used by him in deer shooting excur- 

1 Dunbar James Douglas, 6th Earl of Selkirk, 1S09-85. 

2 Jean Wedderburn-Colvile, daughter of James; married, 1807, 
Thomas Douglas, 5th Earl of Selkirk ; died, 1871. 

8 Lady Isabella Ellen Douglas, sister of the Earl of Selkirk. 
* Lady Katherine Jane Douglas, sister of the Earl of Selkirk. 

[ 58 ] 



BREAKFAST WITH MONCKTON MILNES 



sions, on his estate at St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcud- 
brightshire. Among the guests, were Lord Abinger l 
(formerly Sir James Scarlett), and his Son, Mr. 
Scarlett, 2 who had with him his extremely pretty and 
interesting wife, Mrs. Scarlett, 3 and Sir Stratford 4 
and Lady Canning, 5 the former was once Minister 
to the United States of America ; beside these there 
were present several gentlemen. 

June 25. Breakfasted in Pall Mall, with Mr. 
Richard Monckton Mimes. He is a bachelor of some 
twenty-eight, or thirty years, and has already ac- 
quired no mean reputation as a poet and politician. 
He is a Member of Parliament and represents Ponte- 
fract. 

Mr. Milnes, although acknowledged to be an 
agreeable, and clever man, and attractive too, is 
accused of being too consequential, and important, 
spoiled in fact by the injudicious flattery of admir- 

1 James Scarlett, 1st Baron Abinger, 1769-1844 ; statesman. 

2 Sir James Yorke Scarlett, 1799-1871 ; general ; Member of 
Parliament for Guildford, 1836-41. 

8 Charlotte Anne Hargreaves, daughter of John ; married, 1835, 
Sir James Yorke Scarlett. 

4 Stratford Canning, 1st Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe, 1786- 
1880 ; diplomatist; styled "the Great Elchi"; Member of Parlia- 
ment for King's Lynn, 1835-41 ; Envoy to Washington, 1820-24. 

6 Elizabeth Charlotte Alexander, daughter of James ; married, 
1825, Sir Stratford Canning. 

[ 59 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ing friends. He has genius, and is " petted by the 
women." Can that account for the abuse of his own 
sex ? At any rate, I may acknowledge that I have not 
seen a more attractive man, without a particle of 
personal beauty (he is very short too), since I have 
been in England. Our breakfast party was composed 
of Mr. Colville, two gentlemen, translators of Nie- 
buhr's Rome, a blond and pretty lady, wife of a 
Member of Parliament, whose name I have now for- 
gotten, and Mr. Phillips, a young barrister of reputa- 
tion, whom Mr. Webster had also known, at Wash- 
ington. Mr. Milnes is also an amateur musician ; he 
plays the piano forte, and presented me with a song, 
the words, and I believe the music, his own composi- 
tion. It is called the " Venetian Serenade." He pre- 
sented to Mrs. Webster, and to myself copies of his 
"Poems of many Years" recently published. 

After breakfasting Mr. Phillips accompanied us 
to the House of Lords. The court was sitting, and I 
saw for the first time, the judges, and lawyers, in their 
wigs, and robes. It so entirely changed the appear- 
ance of their wearers, that I did not recognize when 
they spoke to me, either Baron Vaughan, 1 or Baron 

1 Sir John Vaughan, 1769-1839 ; judge ; Justice of Common 
Pleas, 1834-39. 

[ 60 ] 



THE HOUSE OF LORDS 



Parke, although knowing them both well. The House 
of Lords, is a comparatively small apartment, used 
but temporarily until a new Parliament house can 
be built. The present House of Commons, is the 
former House of Lords, but as the ladies are never 
admitted during the sessions, we saw but the vacant 
house. Our first visit to the House of Lords had 
been already made, on the day we visited the Abbey. 
Lord Lovelace took us to the "Ushers Black Rod 
box," the only place where ladies are admitted ; there 
we saw the Vice-Chancellor on the Wool Sack, and 
"the Duke " in his seat, made a few remarks upon 
the "postponement bill," as did Lord Powerscourt, 
Lord Lyndhurst, and Lord Brougham. 1 The Duke 
of Wellington wore a white waistcoat buttoned to 
the chin, white neckcloth, and the customary Eng- 
lish morning frock coat. He has very stooping shoul- 
ders, in consequence of advanced age, and very white, 
thin, straight hair. He speaks but indistinctly, the 
voice at times quite low, then raised again to a shrill, 
high pitch, reminding one of an aged clergyman, with 
whom half the words are lost. Lord Brougham is 
decidedly ugly, is full of gesticulation, and has a 

1 Henry Peter Brougham, Baron Brougham and Vaux, 1778- 
1868 ; Lord Chancellor. 

C 61 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

peculiarly prominent, flexible nose, square at the 
end, and somewhat retrousse. This feature as he 
talks, is constantly in motion, all the lines about the 
mouth, and cheeks are subject to a most unfortunate 
nervous twitching scarcely ceasing, even for a mo- 
ment. He speaks nevertheless with some fluency, but 
has the English stammer. Lord Lyndhurst is de- 
cidedly the best speaker we have yet heard, being 
free in a great degree from this unfortunate peculiar- 
ity. Lord Melbourne hesitates, repeats, and stam- 
mers, in the simplest conversation. In short, this 
stammering, is a general fault here, both in public, 
and in private. It is very tiresome, to await the out- 
coming of a word, when one already knows, what 
that stumbling word will be. 

The morning after the visit alluded to, the news- 
papers announced that " Mrs. Webster the wife of 
the American Senator, was in the Black Rod box 
the previous night." But to return to this, our sec- 
ond visit with Mr. Phillips. After we had had pointed 
out to us the spot, where the unfortunate Mr. Perce- 
val 1 was shot, in the House of Commons, we pro- 
ceeded, to visit "Westminster Hall, where Parliaments 

1 Spencer Perceval, 1762-1812 ; statesman. He was shot in the 
lobby of the House of Commons. 

[ 62 ] 



WESTMINSTER HALL 



have often sat, and Coronation feasts occur, and 
Peers, and other distinguished persons accused of 
treason, and other crimes, and misdemeanors, have 
been tried. Warren Hastings' 1 trial took place here, 
and Lord Melville's. 2 It is one of the largest rooms 
in Europe, unsupported by pillars ; the roof is curi- 
ously carved, in Gothic, with chestnut wood, and the 
Gothic windows, at the extremes are very striking. 
After driving over several of the bridges, and through 
various interesting portions of London, seen for the 
first time, we returned home to luncheon, and after- 
ward made twenty morning visits until 6 o'clock, 
when we again returned to dress for a dinner with 
Mr. and Mrs. Archibald, York Terrace, Regent's 
Park. Among the guests, was " His Royal Highness 
the Duke of Brunswick," 3 cousin of her Majesty, a 
stupid person ; he sat on my left, but I could extract 
from him nothing intelligent, or agreeable. Besides 
this, we had Sir Duncan MacDougall, 4 Mr. and Mrs. 

1 Warren Hastings, 1732-1818; Governor- General of India. He 
was impeached on the ground of corruption and cruelty in his In- 
dian administration, but acquitted. 

2 ilenry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, 1742-1811. He was im- 
peached for malversation, and guilty of negligence, but acquitted. 

8 August Louis William Maximilian Frederick, 1806-84; suc- 
ceeded in 1831. 

4 Sir Duncan MacDougall, 1787-1862 ; lieutenant-colonel, 79th 
Cameron Highlanders. 

[ 63 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Lamie-Murray, and Bishop Inglis 1 of Nova Scotia, 
and daughter. We were much urged to remain at 
Mrs. Archibald's evening party, but we were already 
engaged to a ball at the Marquis of Normanby's. On 
reaching home however, the question for going, or 
not going, to the ball, was put to vote, and we all 
with one accord, decided in the negative, preferring 
to seek the "arms of Nature's soft nurse" to the 
most brilliant ball, that a London season could offer. 
In short, we were quite done vp, and did not rise 
until a late hour on the following morning. 

June 26. Made many more visits, ending at Storr 
& Mortimer's tempting shop in Bond Street. Mr. 
Webster went to the Royal levee, exclusively for 
gentlemen, in full court costume, which became him 
excessively. As he made his devoirs, her Majesty, 
as she acknowledged them, remarked : " I had the 
pleasure of seeing you Mr. Webster, at the chapel, 
on Sunday." In the evening, we attended a grand 
concert at Lansdowne House. The music-room 
was very spacious, and elegant, embellished with 
antique statuary, and numerous lofty candelabra. 
The Italians sang divinely. The rank and fashion 
of London were present. Among them were Sir 

l John Inglia, 1778-1850 ; Bishop of Nova Scotia. 
[ 64 ] 



SHERIDAN'S GRANDDAUGHTERS 



Robert, 1 Lady, 2 and Miss Peel. The latter is short, 
quite young, and unlike her Father, she has dark eyes. 
His are blue, with light hair, high forehead, and a 
very good, intellectual, expressive face ; he is about 50 
years old. My desire was gratified by the sight of Lady 
Seymour, 3 and her no less celebrated sister the Hon. 
Mrs. Norton. 4 Both these granddaughters of the 
celebrated Sheridan, are very justly admired for their 
personal beauty, but Mrs. Norton's is of a more intel- 
lectual, less regular, and of a decidedly higher order 
than Lady Seymour's ; the former has a large mouth, 
betokening energy, and decision, the latter a tran- 
quil, regular loveliness, which is certainly very win- 
ning and attractive. Lady Lansdowne 5 is a firm, and 

1 Sir Robert Peel, second Baronet, 1788-1850 ; statesman ; in 
Opposition, 1839. 

2 Julia Floyd, daughter of Sir John, Baronet ; married, 1820, Sir 
Robert Peel, 2d Baronet. 

8 Jane Georgiana Sheridan, daughter of Thomas ; married, 1830, 
Edward Adolphus Seymour, 12th Duke of Somerset ; died, 1884, 
aged 75. 

4 Caroline Elizabeth Sarah Sheridan, 1808-77 ; poetess ; daughter 
of Thomas ; married, 1827, Hon. George Chappie Norton, from 
•whom she separated in 1836 ; distinguished for her beauty and wit. 
Lord Melbourne was accused by her husband of being too intimate 
with her, but the trial proved both innocent. Dickens got hints of 
"Bardell v. Pickwick " from this trial. 

5 Louisa Emma Fox-Strangways, daughter of Henry Thomas, 2d 
Earl of Ilchester ; married, 1808, Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, 3d Mar- 
quis of Lansdowne ; died, 1851. 

[ 65 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

fast friend to Mrs. Norton, and enthusiastic in her 
defence against all those unfortunate, and well known 
slanders, that have reached even our own shores. 
Mrs. Norton has scarcely the bearing of contentment 
or happiness, and is much changed of late, they say. 
Lady Seymour reminds me of Elizabeth Bryant l of 
Boston, but she is taller, and has a superb complex- 
ion, and of course is more beautiful than our friend 
Elizabeth, although there is a striking similarity of 
expression. 

June 27. Breakfasted with Sir Robert H. Inglis; 
Lady Inglis was not in town, a fact we were previ- 
ously told, by Sir Robert. Here we met Mr. Spring- 
Rice, 2 the Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sir Strat- 
ford Canning, Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, 3 Mr. 
Morier, brother to the author of that agreeable book 
" Hajji Baba," 4 and Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, 5 
with whom we all fell in love. He urged us to visit 

1 Elizabeth Bryant, 1S1S-43 ; daughter of John ; married, 1840, 
Patrick Grant of Boston. 

2 Thomas Spring-Rice, 1st Baron Monteagle of Brandon, 1790- 
1866 ; Chancellor of the Exchequer, 1835-39. 

3 Sir Robert John Wilmot Horton, 3d Baronet, 1784-1841 ; poli- 
tician. 

* James Justinian Morier, 1780P-1849; diplomatist, traveler, 
and novelist ; author of Hajji Baba. 

5 Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, 1787-1871 ; politician and philan- 
thropist ; Member of Parliament for North Devon, 1S37-57. 

[ 66 ] 



THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. 



him at Killerton Park, and I hope we may yet have 
it in our power to accept. We heard some marvel- 
lous ghost stories, and had altogether a memorable, 
and agreeable breakfast. 

By appointment, at three o'clock, we went, in 
company with Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, to the 
Polytechnic School, and heard a short lecture upon 
the effect of light, in procuring colours, and witnessed 
some curious, and very interesting experiments, quite 
new to us, as illustration of the fact. Those with 
the electric battery were extremely interesting, fin- 
ishing with a grand explosion, by which, through a 
communication with the battery, a miniature vessel 
was instantly thrown up from the surface of a 
miniature sea. 

In the evening we went to a party at Baron, and 
Lady Parke's, 56 Park Street, where we met the 
Misses Denison and one of their numerous brothers, 
Lockhart, the Misses Mansfield, and their Mother, 
and Mrs. Mansfield, also Mrs. Beaumont, one of the 
prettiest women I have yet seen in London. She is 
a daughter of Mr. Timothy Wiggin, and married to 
a husband very much her senior, who was not pres- 
ent. I also saw a Mr. Blake, who on being presented, 
told me he was at the Virginia Springs during the 

[ 67 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

last summer, and " heard my Sister and myself sing, 
in the long room there." Of course he referred to 
Mrs. Gray, 1 as I frequently sang duets with her, in 
this room. The Misses Denison announced that their 
Brother, the Bishop of Salisbury, had been married 
that morning, and had already left town for Salis- 
bury, with his interesting bride. 

June 28. The appointed evening for Mrs. Bates' 
concert and Mrs. Stevenson's soiree. Her Majesty 
however had signified her intention of giving a 
grand ball, and cards of invitation had been issued 
accordingly. Mrs. Bates, and Mrs. Stevenson have 
in consequence issued their cards of postponement. 
We had the honor to receive a second mammoth 
card from the Lord Chamberlain for this occa- 
sion, but to-day, poor Lady Flora Hastings 2 (about 
whom there have been propagated so many cruel, 
and unfounded rumors), is declared to be dan- 
gerously ill, and the Queen has thought proper 
to relinquish the ball. Having afterward received 

1 Elizabeth Stone White, 1809-42 ; daughter of Captain Joseph 
and Eliza (Story) ; married, 1829, Samuel Calley Gray, of Boston. 
She was a first cousin, on both sides, of Mrs. Paige. 

2 Lady Flora Elizabeth Rawdon- Hastings, 1806-39 ^daughter of 
Francis, 1st Marquis of Hastings. Lady of the Bedchamber to the 
Duchess of Kent, and subject of a court scandal in 1839. 

[ 68 ] 



MRS. STEVENSON'S SOIREE 



an intimation from Mrs. Stevenson that she is still 
" at home," and glad to receive us, we went at half 
past nine to Portland Place. The Queen's Uncle 
the Duke of Sussex, had been dining with the Amer- 
ican minister. In consequence of an eruption about 
his eyes and head, he wore green spectacles, and a 
dark velvet skull cap. His wife is not the "Duchess 
of Sussex," but Lady Cecilia Underwood. 1 The 
Duke married without the consent of Parliament, 
and his wife cannot without a special act, bear his 
title, or be acknowledged at Court. Sir William 2 
and Lady Chatterton, 3 it is always agreeable to 
meet ; the latter, has just published a clever book, 
called " Rambles in the South of Ireland." Sir Wil- 
liam's estates are there. Sir Charles Vaughan 4 for- 
merly, H.B.M. minister at Washington, Mr. Edward 
Ellice, 5 brother-in-law of Earl Grey, Mr. and Mrs. 

1 Cecilia Letitia Underwood, Duchess of Inverness ; daughter of 
Arthur Saunders Gore, 2d Earl of Arran, and widow of Sir George 
Buggin ; married, 1831, Augustus Frederick, Duke of Sussex ; died, 
1873. 

2 Sir William Abraham Chatterton, 2d Baronet ; 1794-1855. 

3 Henrietta Georgiana Marcia Lascelles Iremonger, 1S06-76; mis- 
cellaneous writer; daughter of the Reverend Lascelles; married, 
1824, Sir William Abraham Chatterton, 2d Baronet. 

* Sir Charles Richard Vaughan, 1774-1849 ; diplomatist ; am- 
bassador to the United States, 1825-35. 

5 Edward Ellice, 1781-1863; politician; married Hannah Ale- 
thea Grey, daughter of Charles, 1st Earl Grey. 

[ 69 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Van Buren, and Baron and Lady Parke were among 
other guests present. 

Saturday, June 29. We have been sight-seeing, 
in company with several kind friends. First to the 
Goldsmiths' hall, where the law requires that all 
silver, or gold shall be assayed, or tested, as to its 
purity; whenever any article is found to fall short 
in point of weight, however beautiful or elaborate 
the work, it is instantly broken and destroyed. Sev- 
eral beautiful pieces of a tea-set, met our eyes, par- 
tially injured, having just been condemned. The 
precious metal was smelting in small crucibles, in 
the furnace, and we afterward witnessed the process 
of weighing, by which the quality to the minutest 
degree is ascertained. We greatly admired and al- 
most coveted, some beautiful gold, and silver plate, 
of Queen Elizabeth's time. This Goldsmiths' Com- 
pany is of ancient origin, having been founded in 
the time of Edward II. The exterior is a handsome 
building, although disfigured by London smoke. The 
dining-hall, drawing-rooms, and staircase are all very 
beautiful. The latter is ornamented with fine stat- 
ues, and busts. We were much interested in exam- 
ining a Roman Altar, about one foot in height, and 
a carved figure holding a bow and arrow, said to be 

[ 70 ] 



GOLDSMITHS' HALL 



intended for "Diana," and tradition goes, that an 
altar to this Goddess, once stood in this very spot. 
Their patron " St. Dunstan " was a " Goldsmith," 
they declared ; and so was George IV, and also the 
present Lord Lyndhurst, and Lord Brougham and 
many others of the nobility. Their dinners are said 
to be agreeable, their tables, in shape are commend- 
able, spreading out circularly, on each side, the head 
of the table, being appropriated to distinguished 
persons, and guests. St. Dunstan still presides over 
the whole, and is seen holding the tongs, which ac- 
cording to the legend, he used when "the Devil 
asked him to do a bad job." From thence we went 
to " Guildhall," where the Queen dined at her cor- 
onation; a sort of "City hall" where there were 
two very ridiculous figures carved of wood, called 
" Gog and Magog," arranged aloft in the corners ; 
but which was "Gog," and which "Magog" was 
left to our own conjecture. We crossed over London 
Bridge through the borough of Southwark, in order 
to pay a visit to the far-famed tunnel, about which 
so much curiosity has been felt in our own country. 
The prints, however, so often seen, give a very per- 
fect idea of its wonderful interior. We had the 
good fortune to meet the aged architect, and in- 

C 71 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ventor, Mr. Brunei, 1 who is a Frenchman, and pro- 
jector of the whole work. He gave Mr. Webster 
some account of his early life, and said that some 
thirty or forty years ago, he had been employed as 
an architect in New York. He also presented Mr. 
Webster with a rusty hammer found imbedded many 
feet below the bed of the Thames. We saw also, an 
iron chimney-back of very ancient make, and form, 
discovered in the same way. Before returning from 
the city to our lodgings, we went to the " Mansion 
House" of the Lord Mayor, but we found little to at- 
tract us there. In the evening by particular request, 
and invitation from Macready 2 the actor, we went 
accompanied by Colonel Webb, of New York, and 
Captain Stockton to witness the representation of 
Shakspeare's play of King Henry V. Mr. Webster 
had gone to the House of Lords, and contrary to 
our expectations, did not get to " Covent Garden " 
for the evening. This play has been restored by 
Macready, who takes the part of the King, his per- 
formance was admirable ; too much cannot be said 
in praise of his unwearied efforts to restore the Brit- 
ish drama to its former reputation and eminence. 

1 Sir Marc Isambard Brunei, 1769-1849 ; civil engineer. 
3 William Charles Macready, 1793-1873; actor; manager of 
Covent Garden, 1837-39. 

[ 72 ] 



MACREADY IN HENRY V 



The King is seen in the play, to embark from Eng- 
land at the Tower Stairs, with his Court, retinue 
&c, then the Cliffs of Dover are seen, and the whole 
fleet appears sailing onward. The sun sets, the moon 
rises, finally, the French coast of Boulogne is visible, 
and gradually becomes more distinct. The bombard- 
ment takes place, then clouds appear, roll over, and 
conceal all. Then comes a prologue, or " chorus," 
spoken by a figure, dressed as Time; he keeps the 
spectators informed of all the events that have oc- 
curred, and behind him, is a pictorial exhibition, of 
these scenes occurring, so skilfully managed that it 
seems reality. After this, the clouds disappear and 
the actors are again visible, but before each act, 
Time with his chorus appears, and from him we 
learn the course of events. Covent Garden is a 
spacious, large theatre ; our box was on a level with 
the orchestra, and below the stage, but so near to it, 
that our opportunity for enjoying this novel play, 
was particularly good. We have refused many invi- 
tations, both to dinner, and for evening parties dur- 
ing the last few days ; from Baron and Lady Parke, 
Mrs. Mansfield, Mrs. John Abel Smith, 1 the Mar- 

1 Anne Clarke-Jervoise, daughter of Sir Samuel, Baronet ; mar- 
ried, 1827, John Abel Smith. 

[ 73 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

chioness of Lansdowne, Mrs. Grote, Lady Stepney, 1 
Miss Burdett-Coutts, Lady Shelley, Lady Ogle, 2 
and Lord Liverpool 3 and Lady Louisa Jenkinson, 4 
all which from other engagements we were obliged 
to refuse. 

Sunday, June 30. Julia and myself attended St. 
Paul's Chapel, and sat in Mrs. Bates' pew. I was 
not much pleased with the sermon. Mrs. Bates had 
invited us to a Sunday's dinner, but we declined, 
having taken the opportunity to ask some friends to 
dine with us, in Hanover Square ; Mr. Sewall Tap- 
pan, Colonel Heth and Captain Stockton, all three 
are our own countrymen. After dinner, we went by 
invitation to Lady Wharncliffe's, Curzon Street, to 
visit her daughter-in-law, Lady Georgiana Stuart- 
Wortley. This lady is daughter of the Earl of Har- 
rowby, and her Husband is a descendant of Lady 
Mary Wortley Montagu, 5 the authoress of the let- 

1 Catherine (Pollock) Manners ; novelist ; daughter of the Rev. 
Dr. Pollock, and widow of Russell Manners; married, 1813, Sir 
Thomas Stepney, Baronet ; died 1845. 

2 Mary Anne Cary, daughter of George, and relict of John Dal- 
ton, Jr., and of Sir John Hayford Thorold, Baronet; married, 1834, 
as his third wife, Sir Charles Ogle, 2d Baronet. 

8 Charles Cecil Cope Jenkinson, 3d Earl of Liverpool, 1784- 
1851 ; politician. 

4 Lady Louisa Jenkinson, daughter of Lord Liverpool. 

5 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, 1689-1762 ; writer of " Let- 

[ 74 ] 



LADY GEORGIANA STUART- WORTLEY 

ters &c. To Mr. Stuart- Wortley, the husband, I had 
brought letters, from my Uncle, Mr. Justice Story. 1 
Lady Georgiana is very clever, and very attractive ; 
she superintends, in a degree, the education of her 
five children. She has read all of Jacob Abbott's 2 
books, and is very enthusiastic about them, and is a 
great admirer of Madame de Saussure's 3 "Progres- 
sive education," and tells me this clever relative of 
" de Stael " has added another volume to her inter- 
esting work. Lady Wharncliffe showed us a very 
beautiful miniature portrait of the late King, the 
work of Sir William Newton. 4 It was the gift of 
his Majesty to Lady Wharncliffe, and she appears 
to value it highly, and says it is perfect, as a like- 
ness. Mr. Stuart^Wortley is a M.P., and a sensible, 
unassuming man. Some years ago, he with Mr. Deni- 
son, and Mr. Stratford Canning, were at Washing- 
ton, and he won at that time, the regard of all, by 
his simple, and unostentatious manners. He is like 

ters " ; daughter of Evelyn Pierrepont, 1st Duke of Kingston ; 
married, 1712, Edward Wortley Montagu. 

1 Joseph Story, 1779-1845; Justice of the United States Supreme 
Court ; brother of Harriet (Story) White. 

2 Rey. Jacob Abbott, 1803-79; author of the "Rollo Books." 

8 Mme. Albertine Adrienne de Saussure Neeker, 1766-1841; 
Swiss authoress ; daughter of H. Benedict de Saussure. 

4 Sir William Jobn Newton, 1785-1869 ; miniature-painter. 

[ 75 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

all other gentlemen of the highest rank here ; they 
are conspicuous for their entire want of pretension 
and their simplicity in every respect. Lady Hadding- 
ton 1 was also present ; the Earl, 2 was Lord Lieuten- 
ant of Ireland about five years ago, and I recollect 
some anecdotes illustrative of this lady's course, at 
that time. She has no children, and is neither very 
young, nor attractive in personal appearance. A tall 
Polish exile, talked good English and made himself 
agreeable. Mrs. Webster did not accompany us. 

Monday Morning, July 1. This is my Husband's 
birthday, I wonder if he remembers it ? Breakfasted 
with Mr. Samuel Rogers, the Poet and Banker, in 
company with T. B. Macaulay, 3 member for Edin- 
burgh. Mr. Macaulay came back to England last 
year, from India, and for extensive information, and 
brilliant, and instructive conversation, he has prob- 
ably, no superior. He is also an orator, and an author 
of high celebrity. Next to Macaulay, sat Mr. Charles 
Augustus Murray, Master of the Queen's household. 

1 Maria Parker, daughter of George, 4th Earl of Macclesfield ; 
married, 1802, Thomas Hamilton, 9th Earl of Haddington. 

2 Thomas Hamilton, 9th Earl of Haddington, 1780-1858 ; Lord- 
Lieutenant of Ireland, 1834-35. 

8 Thomas Babington Macaulay, 1800-59 ; historian ; Member of 
Parliament for Edinburgh, 1S39—47. 

[ 76 ] 



DINNER WITH SAMUEL. ROGERS 



He has just published his book about America, said 
to be quite favorable to our country. He left soon 
after breakfast, " to order the Queen's dinner," as 
Rogers said, and he immediately produced Murray's 
new book, sent him by the author, the day before, 
and pointed out the passage where he speaks of Dan- 
iel Webster. Sir Charles Bagot, formerly British 
minister at the Hague, was also a guest, and Miss 
Rogers, the Sister of the poet. Mr. Rogers' house is 
small, but a " bijou " of curiosities, and works of art. 
The staircase walls are ornamented with exact casts 
of the Elgin marbles, and the rooms are filled with 
antique vases, and various utensils found at Her- 
culaneum. He has a fine cast of Wedgewood, from 
the Portland Vase. His walls are thickly hung with 
valuable paintings of the old Masters. His library 
of books is very choice, and many of them very rare. 
He shewed us Gray's poems in his own baud-writing, 
Dr. Johnson's own diary of a tour through France, 
in his own hand, also many other extremely interest- 
ing autographs, many of them, addressed to Rogers 
himself, from Walter Scott, Sheridan and Fox, from 
Pope and Dr. Franklin, but what soon rivetted our 
whole attention, and interest, was the identical deed 
in Milton's own hand-writing, where he sells to his 

[ 77 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

publisher, Samuel Symons, in 1666, the copyright 
of " Paradise Lost," for fifteen pounds. It is written 
on one page of foolscap, signed by the contracting 
parties, and witnessed by John Fisher, and Benjamin 
Greene, servant to Mr. Milton. 

The autograph of the great poet, is distinct, and 
regular, notwithstanding his want of sight. This in- 
teresting relic is carefully preserved, and, framed 
and glassed, hangs in the library of the " poet of 
memory." Mr. Eogers it is said, gave 70 guineas 
for this relic. Milton received but ten pounds, five 
being paid in advance, and five, at the expiration of 
two years when 1300 copies had been sold. For each 
edition not exceeding 1500 copies, five pounds were 
to be paid, but in seven years, the Poet died, and his 
widow disposed of all her " right, title, and interest " 
in the work for the additional sum of seven pounds. 
Thus, the whole copyright of " Paradise Lost " 
brought to the author, and his family but seventeen 
pounds, and the piece of paper on which this was 
written was sold, and eagerly purchased for seventy 
guineas. We were shown, by Mr. Eogers, a letter to 
him, from Lord Erskine, and also Sterne's sermons 
in his own hand-writing. The house looks from the 
rear on St. James's Park, and from its windows, and 

[ 78 ] 



DINNER WITH SAMUEL. ROGERS 



gilded balcony, Buckingham Palace is distinctly seen. 
From the windows opening into the grounds, of the 
breakfast-room, Mr. Murray wended his way by a 
short cut, to the Queen's palace, and Rogers told us, 
that " it was not uncommon, when Murray was his 
guest at breakfast, for the butler, or household serv- 
ants of the palace, to follow him there, and there re- 
ceive his orders for the dinner, respecting the number 
of covers, viands etc., for that day." Mr. Rogers 
called our attention, to a carved wooden pedestal, 
standing between the windows of his dining-room, 
supporting a bust. He told us that Sir Francis Chan- 
trey, the celebrated sculptor, was breakfasting with 
him, one morning, and some allusion having been 
made to this stand, of carved wood, Sir Francis turned 
to Rogers, and asked if he remembered the young 
man who about twenty years before, did that carv- 
ing for him? Rogers replied, that his recollection 
was not very distinct. " I am the young man," and 
" the money you paid me for that work, was some of 
the first I ever earned." Rogers was full of wit, 
and humour, and made us laugh very often with his 
playful stories, and anecdotes. His wit is so unex- 
pected, and often appears when one is least prepared 
for it. 

[ 79 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

At two o'clock, we went, through an order from 
Lord Grosvenor, son of the Marquis of Westminster, 
to view by daylight the paintings in Grosvenor House. 
We spent two hours there very satisfactorily and 
agreeably. Seven different apartments were opened 
for our inspection filled with these master-pieces of 
art. Colonel Heth was with us, and afterward accom- 
panied us to Sir William Newton's studio, where we 
had a favorable opportunity of examining his ex- 
quisite miniatures. Sir William was knighted by the 
late King. He has recently finished a portrait of Mrs. 
Ogden, wife of the American consul at Liverpool. 1 
She is a beautiful woman, and sits with her infant 
on her left knee. Dined at half past seven with 
Baron, 2 and Lady Alderson. I found myself be- 
tween Mr. Justice Coleridge, 3 and the Lord Bishop 
of Exeter. 4 Lockhart was also one of the guests. We 
were late, Mr. Webster having been tempted by an 
interesting debate in Parliament to overstay the hour. 
The Bishop of Exeter is a lion here, in the clerical 

1 F. B. Ogden, United States Consul at Liverpool, 1839. 

2 Sir Edward Hall Alderson, 17S7-1S57 ; judge; Baron of the 
Exchequer, 1834. 

3 Sir John Taylor Coleridge, 1790-1876 ; judge ; Justice of the 
King's Bench, 1835-58. 

4 Henry Phillpotts, 1778-1869; Bishop of Exeter, 1830-69. 

[ 80 ] 



DINNER WITH LADY ALDERSON 

way. He is at the head of the church, and is quite 
distinguished for his intellect and abilities ; his name 
is Phillpotts. A bishop's dress is peculiar, consisting 
of smallclothes, black silk stockings, a " quaker " 
cut coat, and a black bombasine apron reaching be*- 
low the knees. Until within a few years, Bishops 
wore wigs and surplices. Lady Alderson has a fine 
family of children, and seems an amiable, and 
motherly woman. She spoke of having known Mr. 
Ticknor many years ago, on his first visit to Eng- 
land. Many guests appeared after dinner, among 
them, was Mr. Hartley Coleridge, 1 the brother of the 
Judge, whom we had not met since our agreeable 
breakfast at Kenyon's. From his remarks I gathered, 
that he had been absent, and in my provincialism I 
enquired, " if he had been out of the city ? " (instead 
of towji), he replied with quickness: " I do not live 
in the city Mrs. Paige, what made you suppose, that 
I lived in the city?" Mr. Justice, 2 and Lady Colt- 
man were also at dinner, the latter, is a strong Uni- 
tarian, which I soon discovered from her questions, 
and remarks. She expressed her convictions with 

1 Hartley Coleridge was a cousin, not a brother, of the Judge. 

2 Sir Thomas Coltman ; died 1849 ; Puisne Justice of the Common 
Pleas, 1837. 

[ 81 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

great earnestness, and feeling, and I was much 
touched, and interested in all she said. She seemed 
equally delighted to have learned that my own be- 
lief was hers. She spoke of Channing and was 
familiar with his writings, and with many other 
similar works. She is very anxious that her husband 
should join her, but education, and the force of habit 
still keep him a doubter. Before leaving Lady Al- 
derson's, at the earnest solicitation of Mr. Lockhart, 
Mr. Webster promised that we should dine, or break- 
fast with him, before leaving for Oxford, and he also 
assured Mr. Webster, that he should depend on our 
making his Brother's house our home, as he should 
himself be there, when we visited Scotland, on our 
way to the Falls of the Clyde. We learned on our 
return home, that Mrs. Bates has been obliged for 
the third time, to postpone her concert, in conse- 
quence of the Dowager Queen having ordered the 
Italians to " Marlborough House." It was whispered 
too, that as gayety and excitement, were a matter of 
necessity to the young Queen, and that in conse- 
quence of the extreme illness of Lady Flora, nothing 
of the kind could take place at the palace, the Queen 
had desired Queen Adelaide, to get up something for 
amusement, and hence the postponement in Portland 

[ 82 ] 



DRIVE TO RICHMOND HILL 

Place. On the 4th of July Mrs. Bates hopes to ac- 
complish, her long talked of party. 

Tuesday, July 2. The Bishop of London 1 called 
this morning, and Lockhart, Lady Coltman, Lord 
and Lady Stanleys Mr. and Mrs. Sydney Smith, 
Miss Coutts, Countess Radnor, 3 Lady Emily Pley- 
dell-Bouverie, the Duchess of Richmond, 4 Disraeli, 5 
Miss Jane Porter, Mrs. Opie, 6 Mr. and Mrs. Faza- 
kerley, Upper Brook Street, the Countess of Dur- 
ham 7 and Lady Mary Lambton, 8 and the Earl of Dur- 
ham. We were however, gone on a morning's drive 
to Richmond Hill ; we stopped at the " Star & Gar- 

1 Charles James Blomfield, 1786-1857 ; Bishop of London, 1828- 
57. 

3 Emma Caroline Bottle-Wilhraham, daughter of Edward, 1st 
Baron Skelmersdale ; married, 1825, Edward George Geoffrey 
Smith Stanley, Lord Stanley. 

3 Anne Judith St. John-Mildmay, daughter of Sir Henry Paulet, 
Baronet ; married, 1814, William Pleydell-Bouverie, 3d Earl of 
Radnor. 

4 Caroline Paget, daughter of Henry William, 1st Marquis of 
Anglesey; married, 1817, Charles Gordon-Lennox, 5th Duke of 
Richmond. 

5 Benjamin Disraeli, 1st Earl of Beaconsfield, 1804-81 ; states- 
man and man of letters. 

6 Amelia Alderson, 1769-1853 ; novelist and poet ; daughter of 
James ; married, 1798, John Opie. 

7 Louisa Elizabeth Grey, daughter of Charles, 2d Earl Grey ; 
married, 1816, John George Lambton, 1st Earl of Durham. 

8 Lady Mary Louisa Lambton, daughter of John George, 1st Earl 
of Durham ; died, 1898. 

[ 83 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ter," and enjoyed the lovely landscape and the " wind- 
ing Thames." After rambling about the grounds of 
Lord Lansdowne's charming villa, and through Rich- 
mond Park, in company with Mr. 1 and Mrs. Austin, 2 
we returned at one o'clock to their house to lunch. 
Miss Austin, who is soon to marry Sir William 
Gordon, is a tall, and rather striking looking girl. 
Mrs. Austin has remains of beauty, and has shown 
her cleverness in her various writings. A Miss Berry 3 
came in, while we were there, having been sent for 
by Mrs. Austin. She is one of two maiden sisters, 
who were friends, and companions late in life, of 
Horace Walpole, 4 and to whom he left " Strawberry 
Hill," where they reside. The other sister had been 
taken suddenly ill and could not appear. We re- 
turned to town, to dress for a long-standing dinner 
engagement, with the Hon. Edward Ellice a widower, 
whose late wife was sister, to the Earl Grey, and 
whose son, with his wife, were in Canada with Lord 
Durham, the former his private secretary, and cou- 

1 John Austin, 1790-1859 ; jurist. 

2 Sarah Taylor, 1793-1867 ; translator ; daughter of John ; mar- 
ried John Austin. 

8 Agnes Berry, 1764-1852 ; daughter of Robert. 

4 Mary Berry, 1763-1852 ; authoress ; daughter of Robert. Horace 
Walpole left them Little Strawberry Hill ; Strawberry Hill went to 
Mrs. Damner. 

C 84 ] 



EARIi GREY 



sin. Mrs. Ellice, presides over the present establish- 
ment of her Father-in-law. We met, at this house, 
an agreeable coterie. The Earl Grey handed me in 
to dinner, and on my left was the Countess of Dur- 
ham, whom contrary to general report, in America, 
I found, friendly and agreeable ; her Daughter, Lady 
Mary Lambton was opposite. The only unmarried 
daughter of Lord Grey, Lady Georgiana Grey was 
there also. Lady Georgiana invited us to visit them 
at " Howick," Northumberland, an invitation which 
was cordially seconded by the Earl, her Father. Mr. 
Ellice had seats at his table, for Lord Palmerston, 
Lord Denman, and Lord Brougham, and they had 
all promised to appear, but a very interesting debate 
was taking place, in the House of Lords, on the sub- 
ject of Education, and Mr. Ellice was disappointed 
of his guests. Mr. Webster found himself so much 
interested in this very debate, that the appointed 
dinner hour had arrived before he returned to dress. 
Lord Durham himself was ill in bed. We had often 
seen him before ; he is a youthful looking person, 
with an agreeable countenance, and short, curling, 
black hair. Lord Grey resembles the portraits seen 
everywhere. He cannot be mistaken. He is in all 
respects a fine, majestic looking man, with white 

[ 85 "] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

hair, and a very aristocratic bearing. Notwithstand- 
ing his reputation for taciturnity, I found him dis- 
posed to be entertaining and agreeable. He talked 
of America, and various other matters. The staircase, 
ceilings, and the dining-room are all in Gothic style, 
and Mr. Ellice's drawing-room is richly furnished in 
Gothic blue, and gilt ; the doors are thus, and the 
whole menage is in elegant taste and style. It is 
much the custom, to receive, previous to dinner, in 
a library, or an apartment contiguous to the dining- 
room, and after dining, to withdraw, with the ladies, 
to the most splendid room of all, which is the draw- 
ing-room of course; in about twenty minutes, the 
gentlemen appear, coffee is immediately served, and 
after a short interval, tea. Earl Grey wore the order 
of the garter round his knee, the broad blue rib- 
bon across his chest, and a brilliant star on his left 
breast. 

Wednesday, July 3. Mrs. Stevenson brought us 
a verbal invitation yesterday, to go to a fete, at Mrs. 
Maryatt's to-day " to eat strawberries." Mrs. Maryatt 
having recently lost a sister, the party is to be given 
in the name of her Daughter-in-law. We had made 
arrangements for a drive about the environs of Lon- 
don, and consequently declined, through the same 

[ 86 ] 



HAMPSTEAD HEATH 



source, Mrs. Maryatt's invitation. The repose, and 
quiet of the country was tranquillizing, and agree- 
able, after the constant whirl in which we had lived 
for the last six weeks. We returned to town over 
Harapstead Heath, where we saw children of vari- 
ous ages, riding donkeys, which they seemed greatly 
to enjoy. Other of these animals were saddled ready 
for immediate use. At half past six we dined with 
Mr. and Mrs. Senior ; having refused several other 
invitations in order to fulfil this engagement, of long 
standing. It proved a very agreeable dinner ; Lord 
Glenelg l handed me in. The newspapers say he is 
"always asleep," but I should do him injustice if I 
did not say, that I found him intelligent, and really 
wide awake, in fact, he gave me much useful informa- 
tion, for which I am sincerely, his Lordship's debtor. 
Mr. and Mrs. Wraix-Currie, were present, and also 
Mr. 2 and Mrs. Otway-Cave, 3 the last, is a daughter of 
Sir Francis Burdett, and sister to Miss Angela Coutts. 
The Hon. Robert Otway-Cave is a member of Par- 
liament for Tipperary. A large party assembled in 
the evening ; among them was the Earl of Lovelace, 

1 Charles Grant, Baron Glenelg, 1778-1866 ; statesman. 

2 Hon. Robert Otway-Cave ; Member of Parliament ; died, 1844. 
8 Sophia Burdett, daughter of Sir Francis ; married, 1833, Robert 

Otway-Cave ; died, 1849. 

[ 87 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

whose wife (formerly Ada Byron), had that morn- 
ing given birth to her second son, Mrs. Austin and 
Daughter, and Sir William Gordon, the Rev'd. Mr. 
Milman and his pretty wife, and her Sister, Mr. 
Phillips, a barrister, known to Mr. Webster in Amer- 
ica, and quantities of other people, to whom we are 
now, no longer strangers, I trust. We left with re- 
gret, to visit the "Dowager Countess of Cork and 
Orrery." i She is ninety-six years old, and Sister to 
General Monckton 2 who fell at Quebec ; Mr. Milnes 
calls her "his historic Aunt." The house was spa- 
cious, and handsome, but I was unprepared for the 
appearance of the venerable person to whom we were 
about to be presented. Passing through two apart- 
ments, and entering the third, there sat, upon a sofa, 
a very little old lady, about the size of a child of 
seven years, dressed in a white silk gown, a blonde 
scarf, and a fanciful white muslin bonnet, with a 
narrow fall of lace, in front. Her teeth are long since 
gone, and she articulates with difficulty. Mr. Milnes 
presented us each, as she rose to receive us, and after 

1 Mary Monckton, 1746-1840 ; daughter of John, 1st Viscount 
Galway ; married, 1786, Edmund Boyle, 7th Earl of Cork and Orr- 
ery. She became known as a " blue-stocking 1 ." 

2 Robert Monckton, 1726-82; lieutenant-general; was wounded 
at Quebec, 1759, no* killed. 

[ 88 ] 



AN AGED HOSTESS 



we had made our salutations, she took the arm of 
Mr. Webster, and also that of a lady near, and fol- 
lowed by her page-in-waiting, she led the way to her 
own refreshment table, in a pretty conservatory, cov- 
ered with grape vines. It was indeed a novelty, to 
us, the sight of one of that advanced age, doing the 
honours of her house to a hundred visitors, and in- 
deed Lady Cork can be regarded in no other light, 
but as a very remarkable specimen of a by-gone 
age. 

July 4. A year ago to-day, I was travelling, dur- 
ing intense heat, to the Sulphur Springs in Vir- 
ginia. Lieutenant Colonel Head came to see us. 
He was a fellow passenger on board our ship. We 
have refused to dine with Miss Coutts, and Lord 
Brougham, as Mr. and Mrs. Webster were engaged 
to dine with " his Royal Highness, the Duke of Sus- 
sex," at Kensington Palace, having been engaged 
previous to this, to Lord and Lady Powerscourt, 1 
but all other engagements must yield to those of 
royalty, and a note of excuse has been sent to Lady 
Powerscourt, accordingly. Julia took an early ride 



1 Elizabeth Frances Charlotte Jocelyn, daughter of Robert, 2d 
Earl of Roden; married, 1836, Richard Wingfield, 6th Viscount 
Powerscourt. 

[ 89 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

with Mr. Senior, Stultz having sent her riding-habit 
in good season. At two o'clock accompanied by 
Mr. Kenyon, and his brother-in-law, Mr. Curterss, 
we went to visit some of the " Clubhouses," and at 
the door of the " Athenaeum " we were joined by 
Colonel Head; we went also to the "United Service 
clubhouse " and to the " Travellers." They are 
charming, comfortable establishments, with fine li- 
braries, drawing, and dining-rooms. The natural 
tendency of all, must be to make many English 
bachelors, I should think. After this, we made a 
visit to the " British Institution " and enjoyed some 
good old paintings. We finished the morning at an 
exhibition of watercoloured paintings thought to be 
very fine. Mrs. Bates' concert was quite equal, if 
not superior, to any music I have yet heard in Lon- 
don. Beside the usual Italian troupe, we had " Ivan- 
hoff " l who is not on the stage this season, Made- 
moiselle Meerty, a German singer of great sweet- 
ness, and Mrs. Dulcken, 2 pianist to her Majesty, 
who played a fantasia, with great power, and execu- 
tion. I undertook to chat a little, with Persiani; 
she speaks no English, and I got on as well as I 

1 Nicholas Ivanhoff , 1809-80 ; Kussian vocalist. 

2 Louise Dulcken (n^e David), 1811-50 ; German pianist. 

[ 90 ] 



GRISI'S BEAUTY 



could, in French; she is positively ugly off the 
stage, but her manners are soft, and agreeable. 
" Grisi " is thought so beautiful, but I only think 
her rather pretty, and that is all. I said to some 
one near me : " Grisi is pretty, do you not think 
so?" "No," said the lady, "I do not think her 
pretty, but very beautiful." She has certainly, a 
Juno-like neck, and finely shaped shoulders, but, her 
eyes are Chinesely small, and her black hair coarse, 
although this and her stout figure, are not percepti- 
ble on the stage. 

July 5. The Great Western sails to-morrow, and 
bears our long letters, full of hope, and love to our 
dear ones at home. Went to the " Soho Bazaar " 
and to the " Pantheon," and on our return, fovind 
that Mrs. Mansfield, Mrs. Amelia Opie, Miss Sog- 
ers, Lady Parke, and Miss Parke, Lady Harriet 
Baring l of Great Stanhope Street, Lady Anne 
Beckett, Sir James 2 and Lady Clark, the Marquis 
of Normanby, Mr. and Mrs. J. Abel Smith, 3 and 

1 Harriet Mary Montagu, daughter of George John, 6th Earl 
of Sandwich ; married, 1823, William Bingham Baring, 2d Baron 
Ashburton ; of literary tastes ; died, 1857. 

a Sir James Clark, 1788-1S70 ; physician ; unpopular in conse- 
quence of his connection with the case of Lady Flora Hastings. 

8 John Abel Smith, 1801-71 ; banker and politician ; Member of 
Parliament for Chichester, 1831-59. 

C 91 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Miss Grey, had all left their cards at our door. 
Dined with Mr. Justice, or Baron Vaughan and his 
present wife, Lady St. John. 1 Baron Vaughan is a 
friend and correspondent of my Uncle, Justice Story ; 
I bore a letter of introduction from him, which I had 
already presented. He is a brother of Sir Charles 
Vaughan, former minister at Washington, and of Sir 
Henry Halford, 2 the celebrated physician of George 
IV, both of whom were at the table. Judge Vaughan 
treated me with distinguished kindness, and atten- 
tion, and placed me by his side, at dinner. He 
spoke frequently of " Mr. Justice Story," and asked 
me many questions about him ; enquired particu- 
larly his address in America, &c, and said he had a 
book, he was anxious to send him, but had been 
doubtful how to direct &c. He said also, that Judge 
Story's " Commentaries " had a very high reputa- 
tion with all the learned of the law in England, and 
that during that morning, in court, reference had 
been made, three different times to the " Hon. Mr. 

1 Louisa Rouse-Broughton, daughter of Sir Charles William, 
Baronet ; married, 1807, St. Andrew St. John, 14th Baron St. John ; 
he died in 1817, and she married, secondly, 1823, Sir John Vaughan, 
Baron Vaughan. She died in 1860. 

2 Sir Henry Halford, 1st Baronet, 1766-1844; physician. He 
changed his name from Vaughan to Halford in 1809. 

[ 92 ] 



DINNER WITH JUDGE VAUGHAN 



Justice's book." Lady Lyndhurst, and her step- 
daughter Miss Copley, Serjeant Talfourd, 1 the au- 
thor of " Ion," and Lord Denman, a distinguished 
lawyer, and British Peer, were also guests, and like- 
wise Miss Vaughan, the daughter of our host. Lord 
Denman is a courtly, elegant gentleman, and a most 
favorable specimen of a well-bred English noble- 
man, as well as a handsome man. 

July 6. Last evening, we heard the melancholy 
announcement, of the death of poor Lady Flora 
Hastings, and that Lord Melbourne was anxious 
the Queen should go to Windsor, for a few days, 
but that her Majesty was unwilling to go. For more 
than a fortnight we had been under an engagement, 
to dine with Mr. Alexander, Carlton Terrace. We 
have since received a note announcing the dangerous 
illness of a Daughter, and begging to be excused from 
receiving us. Extremely regretting the cause, we were 
not sorry to enjoy a quiet dinner at our lodgings, 
and Mr. Webster went to dine with Sir Charles 
Vaughan. At 3 o'clock, we went by invitation from 
Mr. Stuart- Wortley, and Lady Georgiana, to see 
the practice among the expectant Knights, for the 

1 Sir Thomas Noon : Talfourd, 1795-1854; judge and author; 
serjeant-at-law, 1839. 

[ 93 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Earl of Eglinton's * grand tournament, in Scotland 
next month. It is quite a fashionable resort, and al- 
though we thought, we had met all the world, wend- 
ing their way to another " Horticultural fete " at 
Chiswick, yet as seems ever the case in London, 
when we got to [the tilting ground, from the crowd 
of carriages, all the world seemed to be there, too. 
"We had been to Kensington Palace, to leave cards 
for the royal Duke, and Lady Cecilia, and found 
also Hyde Park, with its usual pageant of brilliant 
equipages, as we drove around it, on our way. 

The Knights, at " St. John's Wood," were par- 
tially clad in armour, and as they rushed forward 
on their horses, the Heralds announced their appear- 
ance, with a flourish of trumpets. The attendants 
were likewise in armour, with a tall feather in 
their helmets. Several accidents having of late oc- 
curred, the combattants now attack a figure dressed, 
in armour, with joints and hinges. This figure 
moves on a sort of railway, and as each Knight ap- 
pears wielding his long lance, the figure is advanced 
from the opposite side. They overturn this figure, 
or not, as the case may be, after which, the attend- 

1 Archibald William Montgomerie, 13th Earl of Eglinton, 1812- 
61. 

[ 94 ] 



PRACTICE FOR A TOURNAMENT 

ants replace it, for the next Knight to try his skill. 
Another wooden figure is also placed outside the 
circle, upon which these horsemen practice. An- 
other feat, is to catch the orange, upon the point of 
their lances, or to strike it, as it hangs suspended, 
on the corresponding side of the circle, with the 
wooden figure. When the orange was displaced, 
the pages, in the fantastic dress of the olden time, 
picked it up, and replaced it. Lady Seymour is to 
be " Queen of Love and Beauty," at the tournament, 
and this high compliment to her preeminent beauty 
seems not misplaced. The charm of her expression, 
increases on a more frequent view, and I now begin 
to feel that I have seen no woman in England to 
compare with Lady Seymour's attractive loveliness. 
We lingered until a late hour, and after a more 
rapid dinner, than usual, we dressed for the Italian 
Opera, to which we accompanied Mr. Corbin, a Vir- 
ginian gentleman, resident in Paris, and were soon 
listening with entranced ears, to the music of " L' Ele- 
sire d' Amore," and Persiani's thrilling tones. We 
had also a portion of "Anna Bolena," and Tag- 
lioni, in the ballet. I never enjoyed music more. 
Lady Blessington l was in her box as usual of a 

1 Marguerite Power, 1789-1849; authoress; daughter of Ed- 

[ 95 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Saturday evening, accompanied by the Count d'Or- 
say, 1 and E. L. Bulwer. 2 This celebrated novelist, 
is far from being a handsome man, or very attractive 
in personal appearance. He is tall, with light hair, 
and whiskers, and forms a contrast to Count d'Or- 
say, who is considered the " glass of fashion, and 
the mould of form," but although unquestionably, a 
very handsome man, with fine white teeth, and a re- 
markable complexion, he has not, the sort of beauty, 
most ' covetable ' for a man (in my estimation). 
Lady Blessington is a very stout, very red-faced 
woman, neither remarkably young, nor handsome, 
and widely different from the portrait drawn by 
Willis, or the beautiful engraving in one of the late 
annuals. 

Sunday, July 7. Mr. Webster, Julia, and Mrs. 
Webster attended service in Westminster Abbey, 
and enjoyed a most excellent discourse from the 
Rev'd. H. H. Milman, whom we both know, and re- 
spect, so highly. Suffering from indisposition, I, 
myself, lost the opportunity and privilege of witness- 

mund; married, 1818, Charles John Gardiner, 1st Earl of Bless- 
ington. 

1 Alfred Guillaume Gabriel, Comte d'Orsay, 1801-52 ; artist. 

2 Edward George Earle Lytton Bulwer-Lytton, 1st Baron Lytton, 
1803-73; novelist. 

C 96 ] 



SYDNEY SMITH AT ST. PAUL'S 

ing this glorious cathedral service, but Mr. Webster, 
represents it as performed iu a similar manner to 
that of the Royal Chapel. In the afternoon however, 
I was able to attend at "St. Paul's Cathedral," 
by the invitation of one of its canons, the Rev'd. 
Sydney Smith, who told us the night before, " if we 
would risk a cold church, and the infliction of a 
tedious sermon, that he would find us comfortable 
seats." Mr. Smith's sermon upon toleration was the 
most sensible discourse I have yet listened to, in 
England, and I confess I was agreeably disap- 
pointed, in hearing the subject discussed there, so 
liberally and fairly. Mr. Watson, 1 Episcopalian 
clergyman from Trinity Church, in Boston, was 
present ; he sat directly beneath us, in a separate 
pew from the ladies, according to the established 
custom, with Mr. Webster on his right, while we 
were in the stall or pew above, and locked in there 
by the warden, to prevent the intrusion of visitors; 
it was Mr. Smith's own pew, but to a nervous tem- 
perament, this locking up, was not agreeable. The 
service was performed in the choir, or church, which 
is but a small part of the Cathedral; but on the 

1 Rev. John L. Watson, assistant minister of Trinity Church, 
Boston, 1836-46. 

[ 97 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

conclusion of the service, Mr. Smith joined us, and 
accompanied by him, we went over the whole edi- 
fice, while he explained several interesting objects, 
and the meaning of many of the ancient monuments. 
Although of less antiquity than those of Westmin- 
ster Abbey, still some of them are very beautiful 
and elaborate. I was more struck than ever, with 
the vastness of St. Paul's ; the echoes of the " peal- 
ing organ," and all the solemn associations, con- 
nected with the service, heard in such a spot, pro- 
duced an effect upon me, which I cannot easily 
forget. Mrs. Bates had asked us to dinner, but we 
bested to be excused. Mr. Webster went to dine 
with Lord and Lady Lyndhurst, and we enjoyed a 
quiet evening in Hanover Square. 

Monday, July 8. At half past ten, we breakfasted 
with Miss Rogers, Hanover Terrace. She has a sepa- 
rate house from that of her Brother, and is one among 
the many instances, of single ladies, of " a certain 
age," at the head of charming establishments, receiv- 
ing visitors, commanding the best society, and the 
entire respect of all. Miss Rogers, although passed 
the prime of life, is full of intelligence; she lives 
upon the income of an independent fortune, left her 
by a deceased Brother ; her house is filled with valu- 

[ 98 ] 



DANIEL, O'CONNELL 



able paintings, and we greatly enjoyed our social 
breakfast. "Macaulay," " Sydney Smith," and two 
ladies, whose names have escaped me, were our guests. 
Mr. Webster dined with Mr. Charles Buller, 1 and, 
in the evening, Mrs. Webster, Julia, and myself, 
went to a party, at the same house. Mr. Charles 
Buller, is a radical in politics, and was Secretary to 
Lord Durham, when in Canada. He is member for 
" Liskeard." Here we were all introduced to the 
great repealer, and agitator, Daniel O'Connell 2 and 
notwithstanding my prejudices, and his abuse of our 
own country, I could not but be favorably impressed 
with his intelligence and cleverness. He has an im- 
mensely stout, and tall figure, small eyes, a round 
face and wears a full curled, dark brown wig. He 
talked of Ireland, its productions, and the distinc- 
tive differences between some of the trees of that 
country, and those of America, as they were each 
spoken of. Here was also Miss Catherine Sedgwick, 3 
our American authoress, with her two nieces ; they 
leave England, in a few days for the Continent, the 

1 Charles Buller, 1806-48 ; Liberal politician ; Member of Par- 
liament for Liskeard, 1832-48. 

2 Daniel O'Connell, 1775-1847 ; Irish politician ; called the 
" Liberator." 

8 Catherine Maria Sedgwick, 1789-1867 ; authoress. 

[ 99 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

climate here not agreeing with the health of her inva- 
lid brother. They go to some German Spas I believe. 
She told me, that she came to Mrs. Buller's, (Charles 
Buller lives with his parents, and is unmarried), in 
spite of other engagements, chiefly to see O'ConneD, 
and to compare the " two Daniels " together, and I 
myself acknowledged that it was our chief attrac- 
tion there, as we were previously engaged to Lady 
Brougham's, for this evening. At a later hour, we 
proceeded to Grafton Street, and found a large 
party of " fashionables," and agreeable people. Lord 
Brougham has but one child, and she is one of the 
most distressing, pitiable objects, possible. Owing 
to some organic disease of the heart, the circulation 
is impeded, and the whole face, and even the lips of 
the poor unfortunate girl are so deep a purple, that she 
resembles a mulatto, rather than a white person. Mr. 
Milnes told me, that she possessed an uncommon de- 
gree of cleverness, was very cultivated, and absolutely 
adored by her Father; that he consulted her on all 
occasions, and that at the time of his appointment as 
Vice-Chancellor in 1830, he told her twenty-four hours 
before any other human being, and she being herself 
conservative, advised him not to accept the office. 
Lady Georgiana Fane was present, Lady Seymour, 

[ 100 ] 



BREAKFAST WITH LOCKHART 



Lord * and Lady Mahon, 2 and many other familiar 
faces, too numerous to mention. Lady Brougham was 
seated nearly all the evening, being herself in a pre- 
carious state of health, and her unfortunate daughter 
confined herself to a corner of the room, near to 
her Mother. I hardly knew for which, I felt the 
most commiseration, the child, or the parents. Lady 
Brougham is a very plain woman; the daughter 
named " Eleanor Louisa " is about seventeen, or 
eighteen years old, but hopelessly ill, I fear, and 
probably doomed to a sudden, and early death. I 
cannot express how the sight of her, has shocked, 
and distressed my heart. 

Wednesday, July 10. Had a delightful breakfast 
with Lockhart, in " Sussex Place, Regent's Park." 
We were received in the gardens, which are in com- 
mon to all the occupants of Sussex Terrace, where 
we walked, with the various guests, until breakfast 
was announced. It is customary for ladies to wear 
their hats, on these occasions, and generally, a silk, 
or coloured muslin dress, with embroidered cape, or 

1 Philip Henry Stanhope, 5th Earl Stanhope, 1805-75 ; historian ; 
styled Viscount Mahon, 1816-55 ; Conservative ; Member of Parlia- 
ment for Hertford, 1835-52. 

2 Emily Harriet Kerrison, daughter of General Sir Edward, Baro- 
net ; married, 1834, Philip Henry Stanhope, Viscount Mahon. 

[ ioi ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

collar. I sat between Lord Mahon, the historian, 
and son of Earl Stanhope, and Lord Ashley, 1 the son 
of the Earl of Shaftesbury. Mr. Milman, his wife, 
and Miss Cockle were also present. Lord Ashley is 
a very handsome man, a high Tory, and has great 
reputation, for benevolence, and charity ; he uses all 
his influence to ameliorate the condition of the work- 
ing classes, and particularly, the factory children, 
and miners. His wife, 2 the daughter of Earl Cowper 
was not present, but she is a very pretty, attractive 
woman, and I am told, they are a sincere, and de- 
voted couple. Lord Ashley is also a very religious 
man. He told us a most touching story, of two 
wretched Chinese children, just brought to England, 
by a Captain, who purchased them out of charity, 
of their miserable parents (if they can be called 
such), who had, horrible to relate, put out both their 
eyes, broken their backs, and all their bones, and 
otherwise horribly maimed them, for the cruel, and 
only purpose, of making them "objects," that is, 

1 Antony Ashley Cooper, 7th Earl of Shaftesbury, 1801-85 ; phi- 
lanthropist ; styled Lord Ashley, 1811-51 ; Member of Parliament, 
1826-51. 

2 Emily Caroline Catherine Frances Clavering-Cowper, daugh- 
ter of Peter Leopold Louis Francis Nassau, 5th Earl Cowper ; 
married, 1830, Lord Ashley. 

[ 102 ] 



LUNCHEON WITH MISS COUTTS 

objects of pity, and charity to others. This dreadful 
case, had been laid before the Dowager Queen Ade- 
laide, and Lord Ashley seems to think, that in ac- 
cordance with her well known benevolence, these 
unfortunates, will be well taken care of, through her 
bounty. 

Lunched afterward, with Miss Coutts, and met 
Charles Kean l the actor, who is about embarking 
for America. We had delicious peaches, and grapes, 
and a table groaning under a profusion of magnifi- 
cent silver. Peaches, here, at this time cost often a 
guinea apiece, and other fruit in proportion. On our 
return, we went to see six splendid paintings, said 
to be the celebrated Titian's Caesars ; there are six 
more, which Mr. Brett the owner of these, hopes to 
recover. One of these heads bore a remarkable like- 
ness to Buonaparte, when first consul. At the door 
of Mr. Brett's house, we met William Pratt ; he has 
just returned from the Continent, and is looking 
very well. We also, saw with unmingled pleasure a 
superb production, from the united pencils of Rem- 
brandt, and Gerhard Dow. Kenyon and his friend 
Captain Jones met us here, and we intended going 
to " Thalberg's morning concert," ' but on reaching 

1 Charles John Kean, 1811 ?-68 ; actor. 
[ 103 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the door, we found it had already commenced, and 
we gave up the idea. We therefore went to drive in 
"the Park," where we saw the Queen, and all the 
rest of the world, and Julia rode with Mr. Senior, 
over " the turf." In the evening Mr. Webster, Julia, 
and myself went to another concert, at Chandos 
House, the residence of Prince Esterhazy, the Aus- 
trian Ambassador. The fatigue of the last few days 
had so completely exhausted Mrs. Webster, that she 
fell asleep in her chair, after our departure to our 
toilettes, and on Mr. Webster's return from Lord 
Brougham's dinner, he found her asleep in the same 
position, and so completely overpowered, that she went 
at once to bed, instead of to his Highness' concert. 
The Duke, 1 and Duchess of Cambridge, with the 
Princess Augusta, entered soon after we arrived, and 
seated themselves in readiness for the music, but 
there was a simultaneous movement, and every one 
present, arose, and stood, until the royal guests had 
made their entree, and occupied the seats prepared 
for their reception. The concert was very fine, and 
the supper very splendid. Lady Georgiana Pane sat 
near, and pointed out many persons, new to me, among 

1 Prince Adolphus Frederick, Duke of Cambridge, 1774-1850; 
5th son of King George III. 

[ 104 ] 



A CONCERT AT CHANDOS HOUSE 

them was Lord Castlereagh, 1 who was listening with 
admiring eyes, to Grisi's " Quanto guerrier " ; Lord 
St. Vincent, 2 and Miss Jervis, 3 the latter, is quite 
celebrated, as an amateur vocalist, and rather an in- 
teresting person, apparently ; Lady Charlotte Guest, 4 
the wife of Sir Josiah Guest, 5 he has very extensive 
estates in Glamorganshire (Wales), where there are 
iron mines, and works of immense value. Lady Char- 
lotte, is not handsome, but she dresses well, and we 
are favorably impressed, through the accounts given 
by Hamilton, our " femme de chambre," who says that 
Lady Charlotte is exceedingly charitable, and domes- 
tic, and adored, almost, by her servants, and depend' 
ants, and that she, and also Sir Josiah, are extremely 
good, and religious. I therefore looked with added 
interest at the lady, who, with a twist of crimson 
velvet, above her brows, had attracted my attention 
at the Opera, on the Saturday evening previous. 
With her, was another beautiful woman, with lar<re 

1 Frederick William Robert Stewart, 1805-72, Viscount Castle- 
reagh, later 4th Marquis of Londonderry. 

2 Edward Jervis Jervis, 2d Viscount St. Vincent, 1767-1859. 

8 Mary Anne Jervis, daughter of Edward Jervis, 2d Viscount St 
Vincent. She died in 1893, aged 80. 

4 Charlotte Elizabeth Bertie, daughter of General Albemarle, 9th 
Earl of Lindsey ; married, 1833, Sir Josiah John Guest. 

6 Sir Josiah John Guest, Baronet, 1785-1852 ; ironmaster; Mem- 
ber of Parliament for Merthyr Tydvil, 1832-52. 

[ 105 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



dark eyes, and soft brown hair,whomI learned was Mrs. 
Petre ; her husband has lost a large property within 
a few years, and from all I learn, is scarcely worthy 
to be the envied possessor, of this really lovely-look- 
ing female. Lady Jersey l was presented by her half 
sister Lady Georgiana Fane. She has remains of 
great beauty, and still, a fine English complexion, 
and "nice" manners, but withal she is cold, and 
stately, the reverse of her amiable sister. 

Thursday, July 11. We declined an invitation to 
dinner at Lord Westmoreland's, the father of Lady 
Georgiana, and Mrs. Webster and myself, were also 
compelled on account of sheer fatigue, to excuse our- 
selves from attending a breakfast, at the Kev'd. Mr. 
Harness', where we had been long engaged. We were 
also asked to [blank] " to meet Mrs. Opie," but had to 
forego likewise this gratification. Julia and Mr. Web- 
ster appeared at Mr. Harness', where they met Charles 
Kean, who seems to be much petted among a certain 
set here. Mr. Harness is a friend, and I suspect also, 
an admirer, of Miss Burdett-Coutts. He is a widower, 
and his Sister not coming to town this morning, ac- 
cording to his expectations, he was greatly troubled 

1 Sarah Sophia Fane, daughter of John, 10th Earl of Westmore- 
land; married, 1804, George Child-Villiers, 5th Earl of Jersey; 
died, 1S67. 

[ 106 ] 



LADY STEPNEY 



because Julia happened to be the only female pres- 
ent. To Mr. Harness' relief however, Lady Stepney 
came in, after breakfast. We had first met this lady 
at the Countess of Cork's, and often times since. 
She is mentioned in Lady Bulwer's 1 book as "Lady 
Stepastray," 2 and of course is not a friend or favor- 
ite of the authoress, but as may be inferred, takes 
sides, with the husband of Lady Bulwer. She has 
asked us to come to her next Saturday evening, but 
we shall probably be at Twickenham. We have had 
several tempting invitations for Friday and Satur- 
day, which our engagement to Mr. and Mrs. Clay, 
prevents our accepting. Among them is one for a 
concert, at Lord Liverpool, and Lady Louisa Jen- 
kinson's. Lady Georgiana Fane had brought us 
vouchers for " Almacks," from Lady Jersey, who is 
one of the Patronesses, and notwithstanding my fa- 
tigue, Julia and I decided to appear there, as it is 
the last ball of the season, and will be particularly 
brilliant, on account of the expected presence of 
" their Royal Highnesses, the Duke and Duchess of 

1 Rosina Wheeler, 1802-82 ; novelist ; daughter of Francis ; 
married, 1827, Edward George Earle Lytton Bulwer-Lytton, 1st 
Baron Lytton. She was legally separated from her hushand in 
1836, and wrote a long series of attacks upon him. 

2 See Ckeveley, or the Man of Honour (the Parlour Library Edi- 
tion), p. 309. 

[ 107 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Cambridge, and the Princess Augusta." Mrs. Web- 
ster declined, and Mr. Webster went "par prefe- 
rence " to the House of Lords. 

The ball-room, is more spacious than our own 
" Almacks," the ceilings ornamented with stucco 
work, and fresco, and on the walls were mirrors, 
and the windows curtained in blue silk, and green- 
house plants in the niches, and recesses, and a double 
row of blue damask sofas for the "gazers, and sit- 
ters " ; the back sofa is elevated a little, a plan, that 
gives all the occupants, a " coup d'oeil " of the bril- 
liant scene. The rooms were beautifully lighted with 
lustres, and abundance of candelabra, the candles 
protected by a glass shade, they being almost exclu- 
sively used here for lighting apartments. There were 
two refreshment rooms, communicating, but nothing 
more tempting, than tea, coffee and lemonade. There 
was more beauty than I had yet seen in England, 
and the great " exclusiveness " of Almacks, exists no 
longer. At half past two, we left the rooms, as 
crowded, as when we entered. Mr. Willis was at the 
ball, Lord Normanby, Lady Seymour, Lady Charles 
Somerset, 1 Mr. Colville, and others. The Marquis 

1 Emily Smith, daughter of Robert, 1st Lord Carrington ; mar- 
ried, 1822, Lord Granville Charles Henry Somerset. 

[ 108 ] 



MISS LIN/WOOD'S NEEDLEWORK 

of Lansdowne has just sent, with " his compliments 
to Mrs. Webster," from his villa near London, the 
largest, and finest pine, I ever saw; this fruit, grown 
here, in pineries, at great expense, is quite another 
thing, to the withered and sour fruit, we eat in our 
own country, from the West Indian Islands. 

Friday, July 12. Went to see Miss Linwood's 1 
surprising productions in needlework; they are most 
of them copies, from the paintings of the old mas- 
ters, and being in frames, the deception is perfect at 
a short distance. For one piece, a copy of a head of 
our Saviour from Carlo Dolce, we were told, Miss 
Linwood had been offered 20,000 guineas. Miss 
Lin wood is now 82 years old, her eye-sight, within 
the last five years has failed, and of course these are 
her last productions. It is certainly a very interest- 
ing monument of taste, and industry ; the M death of 
Abel " she completed about five years ago, and it is 
difficult to believe, that the whole effect, is entirely 
produced by stitches, but the fact is said, to be un- 
deniable. They are exhibited in long galleries, and 
one room is appropriated to sacred subjects; this 
exhibition for many years, has been one of the ' Lions' 

1 Mary Linwood, 1755-1845 ; musical composer and artist in 
needlework. 

[ 109 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

of this wonderful city. At the "National Gallery" 
we walked through several apartments, containing 
paintings, both in oil, and water-colours; this last 
style of painting, is very much in vogue here, at this 
time, and " Copley Fielding's " * productions are 
some of them truly exquisite. I forgot on Tuesday 
last to mention having dined with Miss Coutts, at 
half past six, in company with Mr. Mossbank and 
Daughter (the former is the Banker of Miss Coutts), 
Mr. Harness, Lady Langham 2 and Miss Langham, 
the Aunt and Cousin, and Miss Meredith, these three 
last compose the household of this wealthy heiress. 
The house, formerly occupied by the late Duchess 
of St. Albans, is one of the most spacious, and among 
the handsomest establishments I have yet seen; a 
full length portrait of the late Duchess, hung over 
the sideboard and in front of me at dinner. I was 
handed in by a grey-headed intelligent gentleman, 
but in consequence of introductions never taking 
place here, I was entirely ignorant of the name, and 
station of my neighbour. He however, made many 
enquiries of me, respecting Mr. Webster, his opinions 

1 Anthony Vandyke Copley Fielding, 1787-1855; landscape- 
painter in water-colors. 

2 Elizabeth Burdett, daughter of Francis; married, 1800, Sir 
James Langham, Baronet. 

[ no ] 



SIR MARTIN ARCHER SI IKK 

on certain prints, and expressed the strongest admira- 
tion of his talents, and " intellectual beauty," and 
after having drunk wine with Mr. Webster, at his 
own request, he turned to me, and remarked that 
" it was an honour which he appreciated, and should 
never forget, to his dying day." On rising from the 
table, I took the earliest moment, to ascertain from 
Mr. Webster, who this admirer of his, could be, and 
learned to my regret, that I had lost a golden oppor- 
tunity of acquiring a great deal of useful informa- 
tion, on my favorite subject of painting, from so 
great an artist as, "Sir Martin Archer Shee, 1 the 
President of the Royal Academy." He was the artist 
of the portrait I had been admiring at dinner, and 
had I enquired the name, I should have been made 
wiser. In one apartment of this house, there is a 
cabinet, fitting to the ceiling, the entire side of the 
room, and it is filled with specimens of rare old china 
of every description. We drank our coffee, after din- 
ner, out of cups, which Garrick often used ; I am not 
sure, that they were not once his property. Miss 
Sedgwick, and her two nieces, appeared in the even- 
ing, and I should have added, that Earl Grey, and 

1 Sir Martin Archer Shee, 1769-1S50 ; portrait-painter ; presi- 
dent of the Royal Academy, 1830-50. 

[ 111 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Lady Georgiana, were our companions at dinner. 
We had during the evening, some fine singing from 
Mr. Phillips, 1 the vocalist, and the piano, by Mr, 
Cipriani Potter. 2 Miss Coutts' history is peculiar, 
the heiress of so much wealth and of such unassum- 
ing simplicity of manner. She has been the subject 
of many matrimonial speculations, but is still disen- 
gaged. She is not pretty, but is tall, and slight, with 
a good figure, and exceedingly gentle, and lady-like 
air, which entreats, rather than demands the atten- 
tion of others. 

This evening, we have made another visit to 
" Co vent Garden theatre," by an invitation again, 
from Macready, to see Bulwer's celebrated play of 
"Richelieu," performed for the last time, during the 
season. Macready is always delightful to me, as an 
actor, and a man of taste, and to-night, his imper- 
sonation of " Richelieu," won Mr. Webster's entire 
approbation. 

Saturday, July 13, 1839. Tullwell Lodge, Twick- 
enham, Middlesex. We are now at the country seat 
of Mr. William Clay, he is a radical member of the 
House of Commons, for the " Tower Hamlets " ; here, 

1 Henry Phillips, 1801-76 ; musician. 

2 Philip Cipriani Hamhly Potter, 1792-1871 ; musician. 

[ H2 ] 



HAMPTON COURT 



we are to remain until to-morrow evening. We drove 
through Richmond on our way, and crossed the beau- 
tiful suspension bridge at Hammersmith. This house 
was built by James II, and used as a hunting lodge ; 
it is now a tasteful, pretty spot, but the house is not 
large. After lunching with Mrs. Clay at half past 
two, we drove to Hampton Court palace, through 
Bushy Park, where, on our right, was the country 
house of Queen Adelaide, who is " ranger " of this 
Park. In addition to this, the government has gen- 
erously given the Dowager Queen, " Marlborough 
House " in town, and one hundred thousand pounds 
annual income. A portion of this undoubtedly finds 
its way among her German relations. Hampton 
Court is a royal palace, about 13 miles from London. 
It stands low, is built of red brick, and was formerly 
the residence of Cardinal Wolsey, and a gift from 
him to King Henry VIII. Jane Seymour died there, 
and Catherine Parr married. It is a succession of 
quadrangles, part of which were built by the Car- 
dinal, and the remaining portion, in the time of 
William and Mary. We ranged through nineteen 
apartments, the nineteenth, containing the celebrated 
cartoons of Raphael ; these are fine specimens of 
grouping, and invaluable as studies for artists, but 

t H3 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



the colours are much faded ; they are painted on sheets 
of paper as their name indicates, and are named 
"Cartoons," from the Italian, "Cartone." They 
were painted, it is said, for the papal palace of 
Leo X, and were purchased for Charles I by Kubens. 
The remaining eighteen rooms, are picture galleries, 
and contain 2000 pictures; one apartment, is de- 
voted to Holbein's portraits, there are several origi- 
nal ones of Queen Elizabeth, and of Henry VIII. 
The portraits of the " beauties of the Court of 
Charles II " are contained in one room, and some of 
the finest efforts of Benjamin West's i pencil are here. 
I was amused at the sight of a portrait of Jeffery 
Hudson, 2 a dwarf mentioned in "Walter Scott's " Pev- 
eril of the Peak," I think. A picture by Correggio, 
of a " girl reading," I thought was one of the most 
striking paintings I had ever seen. In some of the 
rooms were still the state beds, with the " Prince of 
Wales' feathers," waving at the four corners, of the 
tester, but little furniture remains, and that is dusty, 
and time-worn. We saw Cardinal Wolsey's banquet- 
ing-hall, with drawing-rooms attached. A portrait 

1 Benjamin West, 1738-1820; historical painter; born in Penn- 
sylvania. 

2 Jeffery Hudson, 1619-82 ; dwarf. 

[ H4 ] 



HAMPTON COURT 



also of this unfortunate favorite, by Holbein. As a 
privilege we were admitted here. The " retiring- 
room " contained some chairs, worked as the guide 
assured us, by Queen Mary's own hand, they were 
removed necessarily, from their original destination, 
owing to the depredations committed by curiosity 
seekers. A portion of " Hampton's royal pile " is 
occupied by about sixty families, mostly of the de- 
cayed nobility, who have the privilege of living here 
and enjoying the great beauty of the surrounding 
grounds, and " pleasure gardens." They are of con- 
siderable extent, and ornamented with vases, and 
statues. In the greenhouse attached, is a celebrated 
grape-vine, said to be the finest in Europe ; it is 
seventy-five years old, its trunk is 27 inches round, its 
length one hundred and ten feet, and it yields on an 
average, twenty-five hundred bunches of grapes an- 
nually. It is a black Hamburg. There were likewise 
fine orange trees, and a promenade called " Queen 
Mary's bower." 

Mrs. Clay had several friends at dinner, most 
of them were gentlemen, and members of Parlia- 
ment. Mrs. Stewart, and another lady from a neigh- 
boring estate, were the only females, beside our- 
selves. Mr. Charles Buller is staying here, and 

[ 115 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Temple Bowdoin, Jun.,* he is in the army, and is a 
nephew of Mrs. Clay. Our hostess, with three of her 
children, gave us a charming family concert this 
evening; they all perform on various instruments, 
and her little son, of only seven years, played the 
violin quite as well as "Master Burke the young 
prodigy." We adjourned to our bed-rooms at mid- 
night, leaving the gentlemen in the billiard-room. 

Sunday, July 14. My Sister Caroline's l birth- 
day. Julia and I have been talking of her, and her 
Husband 2 and little " Grace," 3 and wishing them all 
health, and happiness. "Strawberry Hill," Horace 
Walpole's residence, and "Pope's Villa" are both 
near, and Mr. Webster and Julia went to visit 
them, but the violent rain prevented Mrs. Webster 
and myself from joining them. 

Another party composed entirely of gentlemen ! 
Our carriage is ordered at half -past eight, we leave 
immediately, having enjoyed, in no small degree the 

* Mr. Bowdoin has since married Mr. Clay's daughter. (H. S. P.) 



1 Caroline Story White, 1811-S6; daughter of Stephen, and 
sister of Mrs. Paige ; married Daniel Fletcher Webster. 

2 Daniel Fletcher Webster, 1813-62, son of Daniel and Grace 
(Fletcher) ; lawyer ; colonel, 12th Regiment Massachusetts Volun- 
teers. 

3 Grace Webster, daughter of Daniel Fletcher ; died, 1844. 

C H6 ] 



TULLWELL LODGE, TWICKENHAM 



quiet of this sweet spot, and the hospitality and 
kindness of our host, hostess, and their sweet chil- 
dren. Would I were going to my own darlings, far, 
far away ! 



II 



<0jtfotti and WinJet 

MONDAY, July 15. Angel Inn, Oxford. We 
reached this place at six o'clock p.m., after 
a most agreeable drive from London of 54 miles, 
through the most charming and cultivated country. 
In consequence of a great agricultural celebration 
to-morrow, the Inn, where we are, is crowded to ex- 
cess, but we have a spacious parlour and comfortable 
sleeping-rooms. On our way hither, we stopped at 
Beaconsfield to see the tombs of " Waller " l and of 
" Burke." 2 They were in an old church, where there 
are tombs bearing inscriptions, as early as the time 
of James I. We came here " en prince " as they 
choose to call it, that is, we used for the first time, 
the travelling carriage in which we propose going, 
next week to Scotland. Four post horses, with two 
postillions, in blue jackets, and yellow topped boots ; 
the horses changed every ten miles ; our maid, and 
man servant, Hamilton and Holton in the "rumble" 

1 Edmund Waller, 1606-87 ; poet. 

3 Edmund Burke, 1729-97 ; statesman. 

[ US ] 



BY CARRIAGE TO OXFORD 



behind. Mr. Webster, from preference, occupied 
the coach box, and the ladies, the carriage proper, 
which, in spite of the " imperial " (containing our 
dresses, on the top), was partially open, it being a 
landau, which admits of this arrangement. Our 
trunks, brought from America, remain in London ; 
this travelling carriage, being supplied with substi- 
tutes, admirably contrived for that purpose. At an 
Inn, at Uxbridge, where we stopped, we learned it 
was a former palace of Charles I, and we saw here 
the apartment, where this same King, signed the 
treaty with Parliament, just before he was beheaded. 
The oak carvings of this, and the adjoining room, 
won our admiration. We were also much struck with 
the beautiful valley of Aylesbury, and saw for the 
first time several chalk pits. 

July 16. Oxford. Immediately after breakfast, we 
sallied forth to see the colleges, which are twenty- 
three in number. We first visited Magdalen (they 
pronounce it Maudlin) College, and Christ's Church 
College, founded by Cardinal Wolsey. The Magda- 
len Chapel is very beautiful; the Gothic stone cut- 
tings, even to the organ case are very fine, and the 
oak carvings extremely well done. Over the altar, is 
an exquisite painting of « Christ bearing the Cross," 

[ 119 ] 



D*ANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



formerly attributed to " Guido," but it is now de- 
cided by judges to have been the work of " Mo- 
rales," a Spanish artist. The exterior of this chapel, 
is also very fine, and so antique, in short, Oxford 
itself is so unlike other places, one seems to be 
transported to the days of the Henrys, and Ed- 
wards, of ancient times. This college is on a small 
stream called " Isis." On our way to Christ's Church 
College, we walked through a long avenue of trees 
called "Addison's walk," commanding a view of a 
park, and some fine deer. Addison was a fellow of 
Magdalen College, and in one of the rooms, our 
guide informed us, " there were six chairs, on which 
he had often sat." Most of the colleges are built of 
brick, in the form of quadrangles, and one is con- 
stantly surprised at their extent, and the wealth re- 
quired to support such extensive establishments. 
They are all independent of each other. You enter 
an arched way, either in a lofty hall, or through the 
lower part of a building, and at once, you are in a 
spacious quadrangle, sometimes a verdant, grassy 
square, with chapel, commons, and library around. 
These seem the very place for quiet study, and re- 
pose. Their look of solemnity is very attractive. Most 
of the chapels are really very beautiful. " Christ's 

[ 120 ] 



THE COLLEGES AT OXFORD 

Church College " has one hundred and one students, 
and the great bell, tolls every evening 101 times. 
The dining-room walls, are covered with portraits ; a 
dais, on the principle of olden times, was at its head, 
and we were told that the sons of noblemen alone, 
occupied these seats. The Chapel of St. Frideswide, 
containing the tomb of the saint, belongs to the 
above named college, and was built in the 8th. cen- 
tury; the architecture of the most ancient part is 
Saxon, with the circular arches peculiar to that pe- 
riod. Attached to this college, is an extensive picture 
gallery, with some valuable paintings of the old mas- 
ters. A " Tintoretto " of " the last Supper," was to 
me, a very remarkable specimen, of the effect of 
light and shade. Some of the stained windows are 
exquisite; they are two or three centuries old and 
possess a brilliancy of colouring which the moderns 
have as yet, failed to accomplish. The chapel of 
" New College " is in a different style of architec- 
ture from the others, but not the less beautiful. In- 
deed the whole place is full of powerful interest. 
The quadrangle of " Queen's College " directly op- 
posite our lodgings, has been temporarily covered, 
and converted into an immense dining-room, and 
tables are laid, to accommodate eighteen hundred 

C 121 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

persons. Earl Spencer l is to preside, he being a 
great agriculturist. Mr. Kenyon met us here, by 
appointment this evening ; he is a great acquisition 
to our party, so full of information, and kindness of 
heart. One is always wiser, and happier after a chat 
with him. 

July 17, Oxford. Drove with Kenyon, to " Blen- 
heim " this morning, the seat of the Duke of Marl- 
borough. This land was given to the " great Duke 
of Marlborough " 2 by Queen Anne for services ren- 
dered in the battle of Blenheim, and is certainly an 
agreeable specimen of royal munificence. Parliament 
subscribed one hundred and fifty thousand pounds 
toward the building, and embellishing, of this beau- 
tiful spot. Mr. Webster was breakfasting with Mr. 
Hamilton (where we were all asked, but declined), 
and did not accompany us, to our regret. This fine 
old place is eight miles from Oxford, and built of 
the stone of the country, which time has mellowed 
into a peculiar yellow ; the approach, through the 
parks of Woodstock, is imposing. The entrance hall 
is spacious, and striking in its architecture, with a 
lofty frescoed ceiling and statuary. There were fine 

1 Frederick Spencer, 4th Earl Spencer, 1798-1857. 

2 John Churchill, 1650-1722 ; 1st Duke of Marlborough. 

[ 122 ] 



BLENHEIM CASTLE 



original paintings on the walls of the apartments, 
three of which were covered with exquisite specimens 
of Gobelin tapestry, presented to one of the Dukes, 
one hundred and ten years ago, the rooms being 
measured for them. One, represents the battle of 
Blenheim, the colours are fresh, and beautiful, and I 
think a King of France was the donor. The finest 
room by far, is the library, one hundred and eighty 
feet long, beautifully carved in wood. At the head, 
stands a full length marble statue of Queen Anne, 
and at the other end an antique head, dug up at 
Herculaneum, supposed to be that of Alexander the 
Great. The books are rare; the library contains 
17,000 volumes, and is the finest of its kind (so 
Kenyon told us), in England. The present Duke 1 is 
of extravagant habits, and is restricted to an income 
of five thousand a year, he is therefore, quite unable 
properly to support the place, which in many parts 
looks somewhat dilapidated, but withal, it is a princely 
spot. The present owner, is 75 years old ; he lives 
here throughout the year, and devotes a large por- 
tion of his time to the cultivation of his " American 
flower garden." In the "dress grounds" were some 

1 George Spencer-Churchill, 5th Duke of Marlborough, 1766- 
1840. 

C 123 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

very fine old cedars, and antique oaks; the English 
evince a just taste, in their appreciation of old trees. 
As a last thing, we went to look at a stone bridge, 
built over an artificial lake, said to be an exact model 
of the " Ponte del Rialto " at Venice. As we alighted 
from our carriage, at the Angel Inn, on our return, 
we encountered Mr. Hamilton, waiting eagerly for 
our appearance, to take us, by a private passage, to 
the Provost's house, the windows of which, open 
upon the college quadrangle, and command a view 
of the tables, and arrangements for the dinner of 
to-day. There were several ladies, evidently dressed 
for the occasion, and while we were there, the pro- 
cession entered, and Mr. Webster's plate, was the 
third one, on the right, from the President of the 
day, the princely owner of " Althorp." The Earl has 
invited " Mr. Webster and party," to Northampton- 
shire, but we must make a much longer sojourn, in 
this delightful country, than we contemplate, to ac- 
cept one half, the hospitalities, already so liberally, 
and kindly proffered, to visit among these " stately 
homes of England." 

I am now writing by the open window, and am 
constantly interrupted by the shouts of the multitude, 
the clapping of hands, and the fine music of the band, 

[ 124 ] 



AT THE ANGEL INN 



in the adjoining quadrangle. Mrs. Webster was dis- 
inclined to return again to the Provost's house, not- 
withstanding the kind solicitations of the ladies there 
assembled. I feel consequently, no small degree of 
curiosity, and interest, to learn if Mr. "Webster has 
been speaking, and if so, the impression his first 
speech in England makes upon his hearers. Mr. 
Kenyon says the desire, to hear Mr. Webster speak, 
is intense. It is very tantalizing, to sit here, just 
hearing enough of the excitement, over the way, to 
sympathize, and yet to be ignorant of the cause. An 
"American Ox" is the lion among the show of 
cattle, but had we the inclination to see so unlady- 
like an exhibition, the crowds about the pens would 
prevent it. 

Mr. Egerton Vernon-Harcourt * the son of the 
Archbishop of York, has been here this evening, and 
likewise Mr. Handley, a member of Parliament. 
The former embarks immediately for America in 
company with his Brother, and Mr. Dundas, whom 
we met at dinner the other day, at the Bishop of 
Salisbury's. I have just finished writing several let- 
ters of introduction promised to Mr. Harcourt, by 
Mr. Webster early to-morrow morning. Mr. Web- 

1 Egerton Vernon-Harcourt, 1803-83. 
[ 125 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



ster has now gone to a party at Dr. Buckland's,i the 
well known geologist ; the remainder of our party 
were compelled to decline. Mr. Harcourt represents 
Mr. Webster's remarks at the dinner to have been 
very eloquent, and successful, and to have been re- 
ceived with rounds of applause, and to have given 
great delight and satisfaction to all classes of his 
numerous auditors.* Several of our London friends 
are here to-day, among them is Sir Thomas Acland, 
who I find is as universal a favorite with all the 
world, as with our own party. Mr. Harcourt has 
been urging very strongly, that we should breakfast 
at « Nuneham," to-morrow, with his Father the 
Archbishop, but want of time compels Mr. Webster 
to decline so agreeable a proposition. Mr. Kenyon 
has been talking this evening of poor L. E. L., 2 and 
describing many particulars of her melancholy, and 
sudden death. She was not personally known to 
him, but he, with another friend was asked to meet 
her, on a certain evening. Kenyon did not attend 
the party, but his friend did. He enquired the fol- 

* They liked so much what he said about " his going to see the 
elder branch." (H. S. P.) 

1 William Buckland, 1784-1856 ; geologist. 

2 Letitia Elizabeth Landon, 1802-38; poetess; married, 1838, 
George Maclean. 

[ 126 ] 



L. E. L.'S MYSTERIOUS DEATH 

lowing day, of this friend " what his impressions 
were"? He replied, that they were those of disap- 
pointment, and in short, almost of disgust, in conse- 
quence of Miss Landon's very bold advocacy of the 
crime of suicide. She very explicitly declared her 
opinions on this point, and gave many reasons why 
she considered self-destruction in certain cases, justi- 
fiable. This almost corroborates the opinion, that 
seems so strongly to prevail here, that in consequence 
of domestic disappointment, Letitia Elizabeth Lan- 
don Maclean brought about her own untimely end. 
Kenyon seemed to believe this, and gave some fur- 
ther reasons for this belief. Unhappy poetess ! Who 
but the Searcher of all hearts can describe the agony 
of hers, before she was finally driven to this dreadful 
deed of self-destruction ! 

July 18. Castle Hotel, Windsor. Left Oxford at 
half past nine this morning, in company with Mr. 
Kenyon, and our usual party of four besides. On 
reaching Wallingford in a pouring rain, to our vex- 
ation we learned that no post horses could be had 
for two hours. At length however, we again were 
on our " wending way," and proceeded to Reading, 
where a letter awaited Kenyon from Miss Mitford, 1 

1 Mary Russell Mitford, 1787-1855 ; novelist and dramatist. 

[ 127 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

urging us all, most hospitably to come at once, to 
*' our village " to lunch. The place is almost three 
miles distant, and is called " Three Mile Cross." 
Our appetites were too keen for this postponement, 
so after lunching at the " Crown Inn " much to the 
satisfaction of mine host, we proceeded to Miss 
Mary Russel Mitford's humble cottage by the road- 
side. The letter to Kenyon I have preserved, and 
shall bind it up with these sheets in commemoration 
of our charming visit, to this amiable authoress. 
We found the lady whom we were all so curious to 
see, in her favorite garden, among her much loved 
flowers. She is not handsome, or young, for she is 
53 years old; she is short in stature with a very 
peculiar full grey eye, and her hair the same decided 
colour, parted on her forehead beneath her cap. 
Her voice is agreeable, and her manners are cordial, 
and frank. She appeared much gratified, and flat- 
tered at Mr. Webster's visit, and received us all, 
most kindly, making us at once at home in her little 
parlour, up a very narrow and steep staircase. From 
the sideboard cupboard, she soon removed several 
dishes of fruit, to the small round table, and we en- 
joyed thus socially, the products of her own garden, 
listening the while, to the sweet, low tones of Miss 

C 128 ] 



MISS MITFORD 



Mitford, the liveliness of Kenyon, and the deep, and 
cheerful ones, of our own dear Mr. Webster. After 
an hour spent in this delightful interchange of " kin- 
dred thought and feeling," we returned to the gar- 
den to see the geraniums, which are all seedlings, 
and cultivated by her own hands. Singularly enough, 
one which she had named the " Daniel Webster " 
months ago, had blossomed for the first time to-day. 
She asked me if she succeeded in cultivating a sprig 
from it, " if I would take the trouble to carry it to 
America," and on my expressing how much gratified 
I should feel, to be able to do so, she made arrange- 
ments with Mr. Kenyon, for transporting it to Har- 
ley Place, directed to me.* Miss Mitford's father i 
is quite unlike the Daughter, with a bald head, 
and nothing in particular to recommend him, to a 
stranger, save his age; he has spent two or three 
fortunes, the last one, his Daughter's, and is now 
dependent on her, who never alludes to him, but 
with the utmost tenderness, and kindness. Indeed, 
this is a beautiful trait in Miss Mitford's character, 

* Since our return she has written to say that the geranium is 
ready for its travels, that her friend Serjeant Talfourd, who is com- 
ing to America, will take charge of it for me. (H. S. P.) 



George Mitford. 

C 129 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

her filial devotion toward this surviving parent, as if 
by this, she could shield him, from the censure of his 
friends, and the regrets of his own conscience. She 
quotes her Father, on all occasions, and is constantly 
appealing to him in conversation. She filled our 
carriage at parting, with gay bouquets, and kindly 
offered to send us, in the autumn, seeds from all her 
flowers. We changed horses at " Bingfield " remem- 
bering it, as once having been the residence of Alex- 
ander Pope's father, and proceeding through by- 
roads, and a most cultivated country, we reached 
the forests of Windsor. 

" Thy forests Windsor, and thy green retreats, 
At once the Monarch's, and the Muses' seats." 

After a drive of three miles, we entered the park, 
and soon after appeared the towers of Windsor 
Castle, looming in the distance. We drove through 
an avenue of magnificent elms, two miles and three 
quarters in length, and three hundred feet in width ; 
at the commencement of this straight, and beautiful 
avenue, is a bronze colossal statue of George III, in 
full view of the windows of the castle, three miles 
distant. The beautiful, and graceful deer were sport- 
ing, and feeding around us, and often fearlessly 
crossed our path. As we drove onward, we counted 

[ 130 ] 



WINDSOR CASTLE 



over one hundred of these lovely animals, including 
the red deer, and the spotted fallow deer ; these last, 
are of handsome yellow brown, and were of all ages, 
and sizes. We have taken possession of apartments, 
previously bespoken for us, at the Castle Inn, and 
in consequence of the lateness of the hour, our visit 
to Windsor Castle must be postponed until to-mor- 
row morning. 

July 19. Immediately after breakfast, we has- 
tened to gratify our eager curiosity. The castle is 
built of dark grey stone, in plain castellated style. 
The circumference of the whole is 4180 feet, the 
length from east to west is [blank] feet, and the 
area exclusive of the terraces is about twelve acres. 
It is a most feudal-like, and magnificent structure ; 
the effect of the wind to-day beating against its 
massive towers, was indescribably grand. After walk- 
ing around, and having formed some idea of its ex- 
ternal appearance, we went at once to the round 
tower, and through the kindness of Lord Ashley's 
permit, we were immediately shown the private 
apartments of the Queen. The dining-room, and 
drawing-room were both fitted up by George IV 
with extreme magnificence. The former room con- 
tains the massive silver gilt vase, or wine-cooler, 

[ 131 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

made by Messrs. Rundell & Bridges for George IV, 
at the cost of X10,000, it is after the model of the 
" Warwick Vase," and is about twice the size of the 
" Webster Vase." An exact model of the Warwick 
is seen from the window of this room in the pasture 
below. The bed-room, " writing-room," and boudoir 
of the Duchess of Kent, were shown, but those of 
her Majesty, by " her particular request," are not 
exhibited. The corridor, or picture gallery is quite 
celebrated; it is adorned with portraits, and pic- 
tures, and busts of celebrated men. Many of the 
pictures are chef d'oeuvres, and are highly prized; 
the busts are on pedestals, arranged on each side of 
this winding gallery; the ceiling is so richly stuc- 
coed, and gilt, that the effect is heavy, and cum- 
brous, but still, this is a very splendid and striking 
apartment. It is about 300 feet long, and when 
lighted, by the gold candelabra on their gilt pedes- 
tals, during the period the Court is at Windsor, it 
cannot, but be, a scene of very great magnificence, 
and splendor. The Gobelin tapestry presented by 
the French King to George IV, is even more beau- 
tiful, than that at "Blenheim," the subjects are 
finer, and the colours appear to be more brilliant 
and fresher. The furniture of one apartment, is 

[ 132 ] 



WINDSOR CASTLE 



covered with something similar to Gobelin tapestry 
of silk, instead of worsted, so fine, that it resembled 
beautiful paintings.* A clock in this apartment, at- 
tracted us. A figure of Time, with the hours marked 
on a golden ball, to represent the world ; he was in 
the act of arresting the hours, with his scythe, the 
point of the scythe touching the proper hour of the 
day. It would be in vain, however, to attempt to 
describe, all that art has made so beautiful here. 
These apartments are a far better specimen of what 
a Queenly palace should be, than either Bucking- 
ham or St. James's , the latter has not much pre- 
tension to modern elegance, but the Queen there 
holds her drawing-rooms, on account of the size, and 
arrangement of the rooms; the balls, and parties 
are at Buckingham palace. The view from the win- 
dows here is remarkably fine, overlooking a vast ex- 
tent of country, and the beautiful avenue of trees 
spoken of last night. The terrace where her Majesty 
walks is 1870 feet in length, and commands a beau- 
tiful, and variegated prospect ; it is crowned with a 
rampart of freestone. " Eton College " a beautiful 
Gothic structure is distinctly seen ; it is in a pictur- 

* " Beauvais tapestry " I afterwards learned it was called. 
(H. S. P.) 

[ 133 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

esque, fertile valley, and adds much to the beauty 
of the prospect, as does " Harrow-on-the-Hill," and 
" the proudly-freighted, deep- winding Thames," which 
is a more imposing river here, than near London? 
in consequence of its greater depth. With no little 
interest and satisfaction did we look at Shakspeare's 
u Datchet Meade," and at no great distance still 
stands, the trunk alone, of the immortal " Heme 
Oak." It is covered with ivy, and Mr. Webster 
has kindly brought us a " commemorative leaf," to 
lay on these pages. " Heme," is said to have been 
one of the forest keepers, in the reign of Queen 
Bess, and having committed an offence that would 
have lost him his office, in a fit of desperation, he 
hung himself upon this tree. 

" There is an old tale goes, that Heme the hunter, 
Doth all the winter time, at still midnight, 
Walk round about an oak, with great ragged horns; 
And there he blasts a tree," &c. &c. &c. 

" Kenyon " has amused himself, by associating my 
name, with all these scenes, and has been repeating 
a remark made by a gentleman in London, on the 
subject, which I must tell to my Husband among the 
thousand other things, when I have the happiness 
of seeing him once more. From the terrace, we went 

[ 134 ] 



WINDSOR CASTLE 



to the State apartments, which are open to the pub- 
lic; with a crowd of other people, we promenaded 
the " Queen's ball-room," " Queen's drawing-room," 
" Queen's closet," the King's " closet, council cham- 
ber, drawing-room and vestibule," the " Throne 
Room," the large " Ball-room " the walls of which 
were tapestried, the " Waterloo chamber," containing 
portraits of all the eminent persons connected with 
the battle of Waterloo, the "grand vestibule, and 
staircases, ante-room, guard chamber, St. George's 
Hall," and the " Queen's audience and presence 
chamber." The guard chamber contains some fine 
ancient armour, and a bust of Nelson by Sir Francis 
Chantrey ; it stands on part of the mast of a ship, 
perforated by balls at the battle of Trafalgar. After 
this long ramble, we returned to our lodgings to 
lunch, and then proceeded to visit the two remain- 
ing portions of the tower, " St. George's Chapel " 
and the Round Tower. In the former, the famous 
"Knights of the Garter" are installed; the propor- 
tions both externally, and internally, are very fine. 
The choir contains the stall of each Knight, and the 
banner, with their armorial bearings, waves above; 
when a Knight of the Garter dies, his banner, sword 
&c. are taken down, and a brass plate, representing 

[ 135 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the same is nailed over the stall, to the wall; the 
banner of the successor occupying the former place. 
The royal vault is beneath this part of the chapel, 
and contains the remains of the late Kings of Eng- 
land, those of Edward V, Henry VIII, Charles I, 
and Jane Seymour. The stained glass windows are 
very beautiful here, they are very large, and are 
composed of compartments, separately painted. On 
each side are two modern windows, designed by Ben- 
jamin West, the American artist, which I could not 
approve, and did not admire. Beneath the left win- 
dow is an ancient tomb, with an effigy of a Duke of 
Beaufort, and on the right, is the cenotaph erected 
to the memory of the Princess Charlotte ; l the con- 
ception is in poor taste. The dead body lies covered by 
a shroud, on the tomb, and immediately above, is a 
figure, representing the spirit, in the act of ascen- 
sion, attended by two angels, one of which, bears the 
child. The four weeping figures are beautifully exe- 
cuted, and the effect of the light, upon the marble, 
producing a mingling of yellow, and a violet shade is 
really very beautiful. This elaborate piece of sculp- 

1 Princess Charlotte Augusta, 1796-1817, daughter of George IV ; 
married, 1816, Prince Leopold George Frederick, son of the Duke 
of Saxe-Coburg. 

[ 136 ] 



THE STORY OF THE GARTER 



ture has been much censured, but portions of it, to 
my unpractised eye, are very commendable. I have 
learned for the first time to-day, the history of the 
origin of the " Garter " and I will write it here for 
the benefit of those at home, who happen to be as 
ignorant as myself. It is said to be as follows : Joan, 
Countess of Salisbury, a beautiful dame of whom 
King Edward III was enamoured, while dancing at 
a high festival, accidentally lost her garter of blue 
embroidered velvet. It was picked up by her Royal 
partner, who, noticing the significant looks of his 
courtiers on the occasion, used the words to them, 
which afterwards became the motto of the order, 

" Honi soit qui mal y pense," 

adding, that in a short time they would see that 
garter, advanced to such high honour, and estimation, 
that all would account themselves happy to wear it. 
Our last visit was to the " Round Tower," which 
stands upon the summit of a hill, overlooking the 
other surrounding structures. An ascent of 225 
steps (according to our female guide, who by the 
way, was a very intelligent person), brought us to 
the battlements, the view from which, formed a 
panorama of great beauty, and extent ; twelve coun- 

C 137 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ties may be seen here, viz: Middlesex, Essex, Hert- 
ford, Berks, Bucks, Oxford, Wilts, Hants, Surrey, 
Sussex, Kent, and Bedford, and on a clear day, the 
dome of St. Paul's may also be distinguished; the 
circumference of the tower is 302 feet and 6 inches. 
The show-woman, to whom I have alluded, gave 
us the following conundrum : " Why is Windsor 
bridge like a leg of mutton after dinner " ? Because 
it is half Eton (eaten). In the garden under the 
tower, where the lovely Jane Beaufort took her soli- 
tary walk, and was first beheld by King James I of 
Scotland, we gathered a memento, in commemora- 
tion of the passion, of the enamoured King. At half 
past four, we found ourselves again at our lodgings, 
full of pleasurable reminiscences, but sorely fatigued. 
At six o'clock we drove to " Eton Hall," the 
cradle of many of England's most eminent poets, 
statesmen, lawyers and divines, and had the pleasure 
of dining, by previous invitation, with Doctor Haw- 
trey, 1 and his Sister, he being the headmaster of 
Eton College. Here at dinner, was another brother 
of Coleridge's, a most charming, and handsome man ; 
he is a professor here, his wife at present an invalid ; 

1 Edward Craven Hawtrey, 1789-1862 ; Provost of Eton ; Head 
Master of Eton, 1834^52. 

[ 138 ] 



ETON HALL 



two or three other gentlemen were present also. Dr. 
Hawtrey is a most cultivated man, well versed in all 
modern languages, as well as Greek, and Latin. He 
presented Mr. Webster with a beautiful volume of 
his own composition, translations in various lan- 
guages, called the "Trifoglio." After dinner, Mr. 
Coleridge went to his house, and brought me from 
his garden, a large, and beautiful bouquet of carna- 
tions, and geraniums, among the latter was one very 
beautiful, called the " Lady Flora Hastings." A 
painting, representing " Eton Montem " hung in one 
corner of Miss Hawtrey's drawing-room, which led 
her to explain this singular ceremony, and to remark 
that Miss Edgeworth's little tale, bearing that name, 
was quite wrong in many particulars. She explained 
the " Eton Montem " thus : " In the first place, it 
occurs only, every third year, on Whit-Tuesday. 
The ceremony is supposed to be coeval with the 
foundation of the college, and to have originated in 
the monkish election of the bairn or boy bishop, it 
consists of a procession of scholars, to a small mount, 
called Salt-hill. Here, their chief object is to collect 
4 salt ' for the Captain of the scholars, previous to 
his departure from Eton, for the University of Cam- 
bridge. Contributions are levied on all spectators, 

[ 139 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



and passengers, for salt, as they term it. Those that 
have once paid, receive a ticket, to that effect, by 
way of passport. The whole scene is very lively, 
and interesting ; the scholars' dresses are often very 
grotesque and it partakes of a sort of mock mili- 
tary character, which is very spirited and showy in 
effect." 

July 20. Upon the kind invitation of Dr. Haw- 
trey, we went this morning, to see the college. Be- 
fore the school-room in the quadrangle, were 500 
boys at play; here was then, the germ of England, 
what in after years was to be among her greatest, 
and best, probably. The young Duke of Beaufort 1 
was one of the finest looking lads I ever saw, and as 
a whole, they were as fine scions of noble houses, as 
one could very well see in England. We proceeded 
to the school-room, and were shown with no little 
pride by Dr. Hawtrey, and pleasure to ourselves, 
among the millions of names, cut in the unpainted 
walls, those of " Canning," and " Charles James 
Fox," " Carlisle," " Hobhouse," the « Duke of Buc- 
cleuch," and many others now forgotten. The " Iron 
Duke," as Arthur Wellesley, was also an Eton boy, 

1 Henry Charle3 Fitzroy Somerset, 1824-99, was Marquis of 
Worcester in 1839, and later 8th Duke of Beaufort. 

[ 140 ] 



ETON HALL 



and the room in which he slept is still shown, but it 
was not in our direct way, and we did not go to see 
it. The college was founded by Henry VI in 1440; 
it consists of two quadrangles, one appropriated to 
the school, the lodgings of the masters and scholars, 
and the other contains the apartments of the Pro- 
vost and the fellows. Miss Hawtrey took us to the 
house of the venerable Provost, a remarkable man 
of 80 years of age, who was very desirous of an in- 
troduction to Mr. Webster. His fine apartments, 
were hung with portraits of former Etonians. He 
has the first picture ever painted in England, that 
of Jane Shore, and many other antique portraits, 
among them, those of James V, VI, and VII, copies 
of which we saw at Hampton Court. The library 
attached to Dr. Goodall's x house (the name of the 
Provost), is called one of the finest in Europe ; it 
contains many Oriental manuscripts, drawings, and 
many rare and curious works, particularly a prayer 
book once the property of Queen Mary, " bloody 
Mary " as she is called. In her own hand writing are 
these words : — 

" My Ld., I shall desyre you to praye for me. 

Marye the Queene " 

1 Joseph Goodall, 1760-1840 ; Provost of Eton. 
[ 141 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

The Latin exercises of " George Canning " were 
shown by the Provost to Mr. Webster, and he re- 
marked that they all " sunt bona." He said too, that 
Canning's talents at that early period were most ver- 
satile, and remarkable, that his exercises of all kinds, 
were invariably well, and creditably done, " which," 
added the Provost, " few of us can say." Mr. Web- 
ster's engagement to dine with the Marquis of Lans- 
downe, greatly abridged this interesting visit, and 
we bade adieu to Dr. Goodall, with regret, Mr. 
Webster repeating the following familiar verses on 
our way : — 

" Ah, happy hills ! ah, pleasing shade ! 

Ah, fields belov'd in vain ! 
Where once my careless childhood strayed, 

A stranger yet to pain ! 
I feel the gales that from ye blow 
A momentary bliss bestow, 

As waving fresh their gladsome wing, 
My weary soul they seem to soothe, 
And, redolent of joy and youth, 

To breathe a second spring." 

After paying a hasty visit to Virginia Water, and 
to the interesting ruins from Carthage, which are 
tastefully disposed on its banks, we proceeded toward 
London, and passing through Egham, Staines, and 
Brentford, we reached Hanover Square at 4 o'clock, 

[ 142 ] 



DINNER WITH LORD LANSDOWNE 

and find our table covered with cards, and notes of 
invitation in abundance. 

Mr. Webster has just come in from dining with 
Lord Lansdowne, in company with Lord Chancellor 
Cottenham, 1 Earl of Radnor, 2 Earl Fitzwilliam, 3 
Lord Morpeth, Lord John Russell, 4 Hon. Mr. Ellice, 
Sir Charles Metcalfe, 5 Mr. Stuart, a Scotch gentle- 
man, Mr. Senior, Mr. Locke, Mr. Lushington, and 
the Lord advocate of Scotland, Mr. Rutherfurd. 6 

1 Sir Charles Christopher Pepys, 1st Earl of Cottenham, 1781- 
1851 ; Lord Chancellor. 

2 William Pleydell-Bouverie, 3d Earl of Radnor, 1779-1869 ; 
Whig politician. 

8 Charles William Wentworth-Fitzwilliam, 5th Earl Fitzwilliam, 
1786-1857; politician. 

4 Lord John Russell, 1st Earl Russell, 1792-1878 ; statesman ; 
Colonial Secretary, 1839. 

5 Charles Theophilus Metcalfe, 1st Baron Metcalfe, 1785-1846 ; 
Governor of Jamaica, 1839-42. 

6 Andrew Rutherfurd, Lord Rutherfurd, 1791-1854; Scottish 
judge. 



HI 



s 



Slon&on &£am 

UNDAY, July 21. The Liverpool has arrived 
and brings welcome letters. God bless them all ! 



" Heaven first taught letters for some wretch's aid, 
Some banished lover, or some captive maid ; 
They live, they speak, they breathe what love inspires, 
Warm from the soul, and faithful to its fires, 
The Virgin's wish without her fears impart, 
Excuse the blush, and pour out all the heart, 
Speed the soft intercourse from soul to soul 
And waft a sigh from Indus to the Pole." 

Drove to Chelsea hospital by the way of Bromp- 
ton to Queen's buildings, through Hyde Park, where 
we met the Queen riding, followed by crowds of 
gazers, and accompanied by a retinue of other eques- 
trians. Farther onward were the Duke and Duchess 
of Cambridge and the Princess Augusta, accom- 
panied by Lady Augusta Somerset ; i they were in 
an open landau and four. Count d'Orsay too was 
driving his cab " the observed of all observers." On 
"Rotten Row" (corrupted from routine), were two 

1 Lady Augusta Somerset, daughter of Henry, 7th Duke of Beau- 
fort; died, 1850. 

[ 144 ] 



DINNER WITH KENYON 



or three hundred riders of both sexes, and many 
children, with their donkeys and sidesaddles. It is 
estimated that there were more than five thousand 
people in the Park, this lovely evening. 

Dined at 7 o'clock with Kenyon in Harley Place, 
with an agreeable party of gentlemen, consisting of, 
Mr. Edward Kenyon, the only, and beloved brother 
of our Host, just returned from the Continent, Mr. 
Joliffe, a clergyman we were told, who had formerly 
twice ascended in a balloon, when such excursions 
were much more rare than now, Captain Jones of 
the Royal Navy, a bachelor friend of Kenyon's, and 
Mr. Panizzi, the accomplished librarian of the Brit- 
ish Museum ; and now, at eleven o'clock, I have just 
transcribed the above, and am hastening to my downy 
pillow, with a happy, and I trust, a grateful heart, 
to the Giver of all Good, who showers on me, so 
many blessings. 

Monday, July 22. Mr. Senior, and Mr. Jones- 
Loyd breakfasted with Mr. Webster this morning. 
Went to see a representation of the Queen's corona- 
tion in Westminster Abbey, and in the same build- 
ing, is a panorama of the interior of the church of 
" Santa Croce " in Florence ; by the curious effect 
of colour alone, the church from almost darkness, 

[ 145 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

became lighted, from all the candles about the altars, 
until the whole interior is made visible, and in readi- 
ness for Vespers. Sir Charles Vaughan came to see 
us on our return, and Lord Brougham, and " Mon- 
sieur Le Comte d'Argout " l a peer of France, who 
sent his card, requesting an interview with Mr. 
Webster. He is in England but for a few days ; he 
speaks the language quite well, and expresses him- 
self quite familiar with most of Mr. Webster's 
speeches, and impressed with " profound admiration" 
for their gifted author. The interview to a spectator, 
was one of high interest, and pleasure. At five o'clock, 
we accompanied Mr. Senior to the House of Lords ; 
had a speech of some length, from the Duke of Wel- 
lington, Lord Melbourne, Lord Londonderry, and 
Lord Brougham. We saw Lord Roden 2 who urged 
Mr. Webster to visit him at " Hyde Hall, Hertford- 
shire," and we also had some conversation with Sir 
John Shelley, 3 who expressed his regret at our neces- 
sary refusal, of Lady Shelley's 4 invitation, for next 

1 Apollinaire Antoine Maurice, Comte d'Argout, 17S2-185S; 
statesman and financier. 

2 Robert Jocelyn, 3d Earl of Roden, 17S8-1870 ; Grand Master 
of the Orange Society. 

8 Sir John Shelley, 6th Baronet, 1783-1852. 

4 Frances Winckley, daughter of Thomas; married, 1807, Sir 
John Shelley, 6th Baronet. 

[ 1*6 ] 



IN THE HOUSE OF LORDS 

Saturday. Mr. Ellice, Mr. Buller, Baron Parke, 
Lord Powerscourt, the " gentleman Usher of the 
Black Rod " Sir Augustus Clifford, 1 all approached 
the Black Rod box, and were very civil and chatty. 
Young " Owen " of Carolina, our fellow-passenger, 
was in the House ; he is off to-morrow for the Con- 
tinent. Mr. Webster presented us to Disraeli ; he is 
very handsome, and strikingly well dressed. On our 
return found a note from Lady Georgiana Fane, 
urging our accompanying her to Countess Beau- 
champ's 2 concert this evening, but we had decided 
not to make the attempt, being too weary this eve- 
ning, even for the music of Grisi and Lablache. 

Tuesday, July 23. Mrs. Webster is suffering from 
a rheumatic affection, and is most unfortunately, con- 
fined to her bed-room. Dined with Sir Henry Hal- 
ford, the distinguished physician to George IV; here 
we met the Dowager Duchess of Richmond 3 in a 
green brocaded dress, short sleeves, of course. She 

1 Sir Augustus. William James Clifford, 1788-1877; Gentleman 
Usher of the Black Rod, 1832-77. 

2 Charlotte Scott, daughter of John, 1st Earl of Clonmell ; mar- 
ried, 1814, John Reginald Pindar, 3d Earl Beauchamp ; died, 1846. 

£ Charlotte Gordon, daughter of Alexander, 4th Duke of Gordon ; 
married, 1789, Charles Lennox, 4th Duke of Richmond. He gave 
the ball at Brussels on the eve of Quatre Bras, 1815. She died, 
1842, aged 73. 

[ 147 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



is very stout, and her green turban rejoiced in a 
white ostrich feather, with a black tuft at the bot- 
tom, the crown of her turban, covered with steel 
beads ! The gown was short waisted, and trimmed 
with ribbon and flowers up the front.* This costume 
so "mauvais gout," forms quite an exception to the 
toilettes of the English nobility generally. I have 
never seen more superb ones, or in more exquisite 
taste, than among many of the English peeresses. 
Besides the Dowager Duchess, was the Lady Georgi- 
ana Fane, and her aged and blind father, the Earl 
of Westmoreland, 1 his own servant behind his chair. 
We also had Mr. Bruce, 2 the author of " Bruce's 
travels," Doctor and Mrs. Hawkins, Miss Vaughan, 
and Sir Charles Vaughan. We made many visits 
this morning ; on Mr. and Mrs. Henry Joy, Great 
Queen Street, and on Lady Georgiana Fane by ap- 
pointment, also on Lady Anne Beckett, 3 Lady Fred- 
erick Bentinck, 4 Miss Angela Coutts, Mrs. and the 

* She was a good hearted and estimable woman, but she dressed 
horribly. (H. S. P.) 

i John Fane, 10th Earl of Westmoreland, 1759-1841 ; statesman. 

2 James Bruce, 1808-61 ; author. 

3 Anne Lowther, daughter of William, 1st Earl of Lonsdale ; 
married, 1817, Sir John Beckett. 

4 Mary Lowther, daughter of William, 1st Earl of Lonsdale; 
married, 1820, Major-General Lord Frederick Cavendish Bentinck. 

C 148 ] 



DINNER WITH LORD ELLENBOROUGH 

Misses Denison, Lady Parke, Mrs. Senior, and Lady 
Ashburton, 1 Mrs. Sydney Smith, and Lady Strathe- 
don, 2 also on Lady Graham, 3 the wife of Sir J?nes 
Graham. 4 

Wednesday, July 24. Mrs. Webster still remains 
indisposed. Julia and myself received, and made 
visits, all day, and afterward the former rode out 
with Mr. Senior, and Mr. Webster and myself vis- 
ited together, several friends. At half past seven 
Mr. Webster dined with Earl Devon, 5 in company 
with Lord Ellenborough, 6 Lord Bishop of Exeter, 
Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Ashburton, Mr. Senior, Mr. 
Courtenay, son of Lord Devon, Lady Devon 7 and 
two daughters. 

Thursday, July 25. Friends at breakfast this 

1 Anne Louisa Bingham, daughter of William, of Philadelphia ; 
married, 1708, Alexander Baring, Baron Ashburton. 

2 Mary Elizabeth Scarlett, Baroness Strathedon, daughter of 
James, 1st Baron Abinger; married, 1821, Sir John Campbell, 
Baron Campbell. 

8 Fanny Callender Campbell, daughter of Sir James ; married, 
1819, Sir James Robert George Graham. 

* Sir James Robert George Graham, 1792-1861 ; statesman. 
6 William Courtenay, 10th Earl of Devon, 1777-1859. 

6 Edward Law, 1st Earl of Ellenborough, 1790-1871 ; Governor- 
General of India. 

7 Lady Harriet Leslie Pepys, daughter of Sir Lucas, Baronet; 
married, 1804, William Courtenay, 10th Earl of Devon. She died, 
December, 1839. 

[ 140 ] 



DANIKL WKBSTKR IN KNCJI.ANI) 

morning. Miss Rogers, and Mrs. Bates came to en- 
quire after Mrs. Webster, who is still ailing. The 
Dowager Duehess of Richmond called, Lady Rad- 
nor, Lady Emily Pleytlell-Bouvcrie. At 5 o'clock 
Mr. Webster accompanied Mrs. Bates on horseback, 
to the Horticultural exhibition at Regent's Park, 
and I followed, in the landean. Mr. Webster dined 
with Baron and Lady Parke in company with Lord 1 
and Lady Holland; 2 Julia and myself attended the 
evening party at Lady Parke's where we were, but 
a half an hour. Miss Denison and Brother, pretty 
Mrs. Beaumont, Miss Rogers, Mrs. Fitzroy, the sis- 
ter of Lady Parke, and Mr. Austin &c. From Lady 
Parke's accompanied by Mr. Webster, we went to 
visit Miss Bnrdett-Coutts; there we heard the piano 
remarkably well played by a prodigy of a boy. The 
Dnke of St. Albans 3 was there, Lockhart, Mr. Lang- 
ham, and some other people. Our carriage was wait- 
ing, to carry us to a still larger party at Lady Step- 
ney's; we therefore made our conge, and departed 

1 Henry Richard Vassall Fox, 3d Baron Holland, 1773-1840; 
politician and writer. 

2 Elizabeth Vassall, 1770-1845, daughter of Richard; married, 
1797, Henry Richard Vassall Fox, 3d Baron Holland. 

8 William Aubroy de Vera Beauclerk, flth Duke of St. Albans, 
1801-49. 

[ 150 ] 



PARTY AT LADY STEPNEY'S 

for Henrietta Street, Cavendish Square. It proved 
a very agreeable party. Charles Kean was present, 
and Kenyon. Mrs. Fonblanque, wife of the author, 1 
was " performing " on the piano as we entered. The 
Prince of Oude 2 and suite, Lord 3 and Lady Bagot, 4 
Lockhart and Miss Rogers again, and Lady Georgi- 
ana Fane, and Edward Lytton Bulwer. 

Friday, July 26. We were all engaged to visit 
the London docks at the invitation of Mr. Vaughan 
in Fenchurch Street, and afterward to dine there, 
but Mrs. Webster still continues a sufferer, and, it 
is raining copiously, this expedition is, therefore, 
postponed to some future occasion. Mr. Webster 
took advantage of the opportunity to visit the House 
of Lords, and at a late hour, met Julia and myself 
at the house of Mr. Henry Joy, in Great Queen 
Street, where we had declined an invitation that 
day to dinner, on account of the engagement to Mr. 
Vaughan. Mr. Sheridan the Uncle of Mrs. Norton, 
and with whom she lives, was there, and Mr. Aus- 
tin, and some other guests. At eleven o'clock, we 

1 Albany Fonblanque, 1793-1872 ; journalist. 

2 Sarja-Jah-Am-jnd-Ali-Shah, King of Oude, 1842-47. 

8 William Bagot, 2d Baron Bagot, 1773-1850. He was a widower 
in 1839. 
4 Lady Bagot ; see p. 37, note. 

[ 151 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

drove to New Burlington Street, on a second visit 
to Lady Cork ; there was a gay assemblage, but none 
gayer, or more tastefully dressed, than the Countess 
of Cork herself, who wore a white figured muslin, 
trimmed with thread lace, a lace cap, with a demi- 
veil of thread lace thrown over it. On her cheek 
was a green bay leaf, as large as that of a rose, 
which she wore, I was told, from a superstitious no- 
tion, that it would charm away "the tic." Lady 
Georgiana Fane, the Prince of Oude, and many of 
the guests of Lady Stepney last evening, were at 
Lady Cork's. We had some good music, and re- 
turned at half past twelve o'clock. 

Saturday, July 27. Lady Georgiana Fane having 
two or three days ago, proposed taking us to Apsley 
House, to visit " the Duke " called at 4 o'clock for 
that purpose, and Julia and myself were in readi- 
ness to accompany her. It seems that Lady Georgi- 
ana had written to his Grace, and had told him that 
Mr. Webster intended to visit him, and the Duke 
had named Saturday, it being the only afternoon 
when he is not in his seat, in the House of Lords. 
This arrangement of Lady Georgiana's, was not un- 
derstood at all, by Mr. Webster, and as he had 
received no invitation, or intimation personally, from 

[ 152 ] 



THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON 

the Duke, that he would be happy to receive him, 
Mr. Webster thought proper to stay away, although 
he would gladly have gone, had the matter been 
properly explained. As it was, Mr. Webster felt a 
delicacy at intruding himself unsolicited upon the 
Duke. Apsley House is at the South-east corner 
of Hyde Park, and the windows which are now 
protected by iron shutters, look directly upon the 
colossal statue of "Achilles," inscribed " to Arthur, 
Duke of Wellington by his countrywomen." In 
consequence of this expectation, on the part of his 
Grace, he was at the hall door to meet us, on our 
arrival, enquiring at once for Mr. Webster, and ex- 
pressing great disappointment at his nonappearance. 
Mrs. Webster was still unable to leave her room. 
The Duke however, gave me his arm, and conducted 
us up the staircase to his study. Having shown us 
this apartment, he took us through his beautiful 
suite of rooms, to the Picture Gallery, the most 
charming room of its kind I ever saw; the walls 
were tapestried with the richest yellow damask and 
covered with rare, and valuable pictures. The win- 
dows lining one side of this gallery, are down to the 
floor, and look upon the Park, and statue above 
named. They are surrounded by a very rich and 

[ 153 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

beautiful gilt moulding, or rather a broad frame, 
reaching to the ceiling on the top ; inserted in the 
wall are immense sliding mirrors, the size of the 
windows, and at night, these mirrors cover the win- 
dows, being removed from their hiding places, and 
have precisely the effect of so many mirrors, reflect- 
ing the brilliant light of the costly, and elegant 
candelabra, that are dispersed on pedestals through 
this tasteful and striking apartment. The floor was 
of " parquetage," or inlaid wood, with a high polish. 
The Duke was constantly reminding us of its slip- 
periness, and warning us to be careful, and told an 
anecdote of a lady, visiting him two days ago, who 
twice fell upon the polished floor, while crossing it. 
He called our attention to a full length portrait by 
Titian, of Queen Mary, hanging over the chimney- 
piece. I said then to his Grace : " This is an origi- 
nal of bloody Mary"? "Yes," he replied, "it is 
bloody Mary, and said, to be a perfectly correct 
likeness, but here is a picture that is thought a great 
deal of, although I know nothing about it myself," 
and he pointed to that celebrated picture of Correg- 
gio's " Christ in the Garden," a small painting of 
most exquisite finish, and an undoubted original. 
A full length of Charles I. on horseback, by Van 

[ 154 ] 



THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON 

Dyck (a similar one we saw at Windsor), hangs in 
this room, and in an adjoining one, was another full 
length of George IV, in the picturesque " Highland 
dress," which he wore on his famous visit to Scot- 
land, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Duke also 
showed portraits of Charles X, Louis XVIII, Em- 
peror Alexander, and Emperor Nicholas of Russia. 
In an adjoining room, were three original portraits 
of Napoleon Buonaparte. Lord and Lady Burghersh 
came into the dining-room while we were there. 
Lady Burghersh is the daughter of Lord Marybor- 
ough, and niece to the Duke of Wellington. Lord 
Burghersh is half-brother to Lady Georgiana Fane. 
His Grace, seemed to take an almost childish pleas- 
ure in exhibiting his beautiful paintings, and vari- 
ous objects of " vertu." He had quite a novel 
pianoforte, made in Paris by Pape, in the shape of 
an octagon centre table, a drawer of which drew 
out, and discovered the keys. Near this instrument, 
was a portrait which greatly attracted me, and I 
ventured to enquire of his Grace, for whom it was 
intended? He replied, with seeming pleasure, that 
it was a very correct likeness of a very beautiful 
woman, the first Lady Lyndhurst, 1 and "when," 

1 Sarah Garey (Brunsden) Thomas, daughter of Charles Brims- 

[ 155 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



said he, " the mob chose to attack this house, and to 
throw brickbats into the windows, a large stone, 
struck this portrait directly in the neck, and severed 
the head from the shoulders. From the great friend- 
ship I entertained for Lady Lyndhurst, I was much 
troubled, and feared the injury was irremediable, but 
I sent for Leslie » the artist, who finally put about 
the neck, the black velvet ribbon, which you per- 
ceive, and it being in keeping, with the Spanish 
cast of countenance, and the black veil, thrown over 
the head, proved in the end, no detriment, but on 
the whole, it is rather an improvement to the pic- 
ture." Just as the Duke finished speaking, Lord 
Burghersh from the other side, whispered in my ear : 
« You are fortunate, Mrs. Paige, in admiring that 
portrait, the Duke is evidently pleased, and in fact, 
you have got on his right side, for he was a great 
admirer of the late Lady Lyndhurst, and the topic 
is always agreeable to him." Our last visit was to a 
room on the first floor, where he showed a beautiful 
crayon drawing of his newly made Daughter-in-law, 
who is the daughter of the Marquis of Tweeddale. 

den, and widow of Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Thomas ; married, 
1819, John Singleton Copley, Baron Lyndhurst ; died, 1S34. 

1 Charles Robert Leslie, 1794-1859; son of American parents; 
painter ; writer on art. 

[ 156 ] 



GRISI AND FANNY ELSSLER 

I remarked : " What a lovely face and profile ! " 
" Yes," said the Duke, " she is a very handsome, 
a very handsome woman." As we passed over the 
staircase, I remarked upon the effect of the light, 
through the coloured glass windows from above ; his 
Grace again replied : " Yes it is very pretty, quite 
so." I am thus minute, and particular, in detailing 
the trifling remarks, made by the Hero of Waterloo, 
because I feel assured that I cannot be too much so, 
for the friends at home, for whom these pages are 
penned. From Apsley House we accompanied Lady 
Georgiana to the exhibition of water-coloured draw- 
ings in Pall Mall, and returned to our lodgings only 
in time for a hasty toilette for the Opera. I heard 
" Norma " for the first time, on the stage, with un- 
mingled delight. This character is admirably calcu- 
lated to display Grisi's powers, and I never can for- 
get the pleasure I received, as I listened to songs 
so familiar, but so far superior to anything I think, 
I have yet heard. The two Elsslers I saw for the 
first time. Fanny Elssler's l dancing is so pecul- 
iarly her own, that a comparison between her and 
Taglioni ought not perhaps to be made. The latter 
has now gone to fulfil an engagement at St. Peters- 

1 Fanny Elssler, nie Haydn, 1810-84 ; Austrian dancer. 
[ 157 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

burg. I think however, her airy, bounding, grace- 
ful motion, can never be excelled, probably never 
equalled. Therese Elssler i is too tall for a dan- 
seuse, and her long limbs in a pirouette, are positively 
disgusting. Lady Brougham and the pretty black 
eyed Mrs. Petre occupied the next box, but one. 
Lady Blessiugton and party were opposite, as usual. 
The Queen was there, and the Duchess of Braganza 
in the same box. On our right were the Duke and 
Duchess of Cambridge, and the Princess Augusta, 
with a host of other now familiar faces, Saturday 
evening being the " fashionable night." 

Sunday, July 28. Found Mrs. Webster very un- 
well, and a return of severe pain ; did not therefore 
attend " Mary-le-Bow " church, but remained all day 
with Mrs. Webster. At her particular desire, she 
being considerably relieved at 7 o'clock, we went to 
fulfil a dinner engagement at the Earl of West- 
moreland's, with Lady Georgiana Fane. Here was 
the Lord Marquis of Exeter, 2 Mr. and Miss Mit- 
chell, Mr. Armstrong, and a vacant seat for Lord 
Harry Vane, 3 who did not appear. Mr. Daly, an 

1 TheVese Elssler, 1808-78; Austrian dancer, and wife of Prince 
Adalbert, of Prussia. 

2 Brownlow Cecil, 2d Marquis and Earl of Exeter, 1795-1867. 

8 Lord Harry George Vane, afterward 4th Duke of Cleveland, 

[ 158 ] 



THE EARL OF WESTMORELAND 

agreeable young Irishman whom we have before met, 
came in after dinner, and a cousin of Lady Georgi- 
ana's, a Mr. Fane. His Daughter is devoted to Lord 
Westmoreland, and he poor man, explained to me, 
that a certain operation, of brushing over the pupil 
of his eye was about to be performed, that he felt quite 
sanguine of success, and could not but hope, that on 
our next visit to Grosvenor Square, he might have 
the satisfaction of seeing our countenances. Unfor- 
tunate old man ! With all that wealth, and rank can 
bestow, he is miserably and hopelessly blind, and 
deserted by his wedded wife, for no other reason, 
than "incompatibility of temper and tastes." At 
eleven o'clock we accompanied Lady Georgiana to a 
soiree at Lady Southwell's, 1 she herself is a Catholic 
of Freuch descent ; there was fine amateur singing. 
We were introduced to Lord Clements 2 whose bro- 
ther, Mr. Webster very well remembered, seeing in 
America some years ago. Here we remained but a 
short time, but on going out, we met Lady Stepney 

1803-91. He later took the name of Powlett in lieu of that of 
Vane. 

1 Jane Berkeley, daughter of John ; married, 1799, Thomas 
Anthony Southwell, Viscount Southwell. 

2 William Sydney Clements, Lord Clements, later 3d Earl of 
Leitrim, 1806-78. 

C 159 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



just making her appearance, it being just twelve 
o'clock ! 

Monday, July 29. Rainy and disagreeable. Mrs. 
Bates and Madame Van de Weyer called. Lady 
Georgiana Fane paid us a long and social visit ; she 
brought me a beautiful and fragrant magnolia, sent 
to her by the Countess Zichy, from her conservatory, 
to remind me as she said, " of my own more genial 
clime." Mr. Webster dined at 7 o'clock with Sir 
Robert Harry Inglis, in company with Rogers the 
poet, Lord Burgheish, Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, and 
his son, who is member for West Somerset, and some 
other guests whose names have escaped me. At half 
past ten we went to a concert at Mr. Quentin Dick's, 
in Curzon Street, Mayfair. He is a bachelor, and 
member for Maldon ; here was Lady Shelley, Sir 
William and Lady Chatterton, Countess Beauchamp, 
and Countess Zichy, Rogers, Daly, Young, Lord 
Burghersh who is himself a musician and composer, 
and Mr. Meredith, also the Duchess of Canizzaro 
and her Son. Grisi was taken ill and did not make 
her appearance ; Garcia therefore had a rare oppor- 
tunity for the display of her powers, she accompanied 
herself on the piano with several songs, one of which, 
in German, was her own composition. She is said 

[ 160 ] 



GARCIA'S SINGING 



to be very accomplished, and the mistress of six dif- 
ferent languages. She is most unfortunately plain, 
but she drew rounds of applause, particularly from 
Lord Burghersh, who was enthusiastic with his " en- 
cores." Rubini sang divinely too, and Lablache's 
basso is as fine as ever. Lady Georgiana pointed 
out to me a lady greatly admired by Mr. Bulwer, 
who was also present. She has light hair, blue eyes 
and is tall ; her name I forget. We got home at half 
past two. Lord Brougham was present, but Lady 
Brougham, 1 indisposed. 

Tuesday, July 30. Mr. John Evelyn Denison 2 
called, having just come back from the Continent, 
where he has been for two months. He has visited 
our country, and formed a previous acquaintance 
with Mr. Webster ; ever since his departure his char- 
iot, horses, and coachman have been at Mr. Web- 
ster's entire disposal ; in fact, we are indebted to him 
for many kindnesses. His wife Lady Charlotte, 3 is 
daughter of the Duke of Portland. He is a conserva- 

1 Mary Anne Eden, daughter of Thomas ; married, 1819, Henry 
Peter Brougham, Baron Brougham and Vaux. 

2 John Evelyn Denison, 1st Viscount Ossington, 1800-73 ; Speaker 
of the House of Commons, 1S57-72. 

8 Charlotte Cavendish-Seott-Bentinck, daughter of William 
Henry Cavendish, 4th Duke of Portland; married, 1827, John 
Evelyn Denison, 1st Viscount Ossington. 

C 161 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

tive, and member for Malton. He urges Mr. Web- 
ster to bring us all, to " Ossington Hall " in North, 
amptonshire, and Mr. Webster wishes it himself, if 
possible. Soon after his visit he sent Mrs. Webster, 
a most tempting basket of peaches, and grapes, from 
his own grounds, near town. The rain continues, but 
we accomplished many visits simply, by leaving our 
cards. At 7 o'clock dined in Park Crescent with Mr. 
and Mrs. Jaudon. On account of the dampness of 
the evening Mrs. Webster still feared to go out. 
We met several American friends now in London. 
At half past ten we drove to St. James's Place, to 
an evening party at " Rogers'." Miss Jervis, the 
Daughter of Lord St. Vincent, was singing as we 
entered. She is a friend, and favorite of Rogers; 
she possesses a voice of great richness, and compass, 
although not extremely powerful; she sang a Swiss 
song of her own, and another in German, with great 
effect. Rogers says her compositions are wonderful ; 
that she has written the music of a whole opera. 
Lord St. Vincent was there, Viscount Duncannon, 1 
Mr. Armstrong, and Lady Portman, 2 one of the ladies 

1 John William Ponsonby, Viscount Duucannon, later 4th Earl 
of Bessborough, 1781-1847 ; statesman. 

2 Emma Lascelles, daughter of Henry, 2d Earl of Harewood, 
married, 1827, Edward Berkeley Portman, 1st Baron Portman. 

C 162 ] 



EVENING PARTY AT ROGERS'S 

of Victoria's bed-chamber, who with Lady Tavistock, 1 
has been recently, so much censured in the sad affair 
of Lady Flora Hastings. Lady Portman requested 
me to introduce her to Mr. Webster ; " uever hav- 
ing," she remarked, " yet had the honour of know- 
ing him." The Earl of Lonsdale 2 and his widowed 
daughter, Lady Frederick Bentinck, were also guests 
of Rogers ; having taken their leave of him, and ap- 
proached the door, they again crossed the room, and 
in a very kind manner, they invited me to accom- 
pany Mr. Webster to Lowther Castle in Westmore- 
land on our way North, next month, adding, that Mr. 
Webster had already promised them this pleasure. 
This castle is said, to be one of the finest in Eng- 
land, and I was much flattered, by this marked at- 
tention on the part of the old lord and his amiable 
daughter. Long after midnight we retired, leaving 
Miss Coutts, her sister Miss Burdett, and many others 
still there. 

Wednesday, July 31. The eleventh day of rain! 
Our letters all dispatched by the steamer Liverpool, 

1 Anna Maria Stanhope, 1783-1857, daughter of Charles, 3d 
Earl of Harrington ; married, 1808, Francis Russell, Marquis of 
Tavistock, later 7th Duke of Bedford. 

2 William Lowther, 1st Earl of Lonsdale, 1757-1S44 ; patron of 
Wordsworth. 

[ 163 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



that sails to-morrow. At half past ten o'clock we at- 
tended a concert at Apsley House, at a card of invi- 
tation from : " Field Marshall, Duke of Wellington. 
At home, half past ten o'clock. Music." Mr. Web- 
ster had been dining at Holland House, with Lord 
and Lady Holland, in company with Lord Saye and 
Sele, 1 the Duke of Sussex (whom I should have first 
named), and his wife Lady Cecilia Underwood, Lord 
Mostyn, 2 Lord Dinorben,3 Lord 4 and Lady Marcus 
Hill, 5 Sir Charles Metcalfe, Sir Josiah, and Lady 
Charlotte Guest, Colonel, and Mrs. Fox, and Mr. 
Allen. Of course we met the elite of London this 
evening. The concert had already commenced, and 
Rogers who was present, told me that the programme 
was the entire selection, and arrangement of Miss 
Jervis. "Bel raggio di Luna," a Romanza from 
Lord Burghersh's own opera of " II Torneo " was 
sung enchantingly by Rubini. Also, was the duet of 
" Deh con te " by the two Grisis. 

1 Gregory William Eardley-Twisleton-Fiennes, 14th Baron Saye 
and Sele, 1769-1844. 

2 Sir Edward Mostyn, 7th Baronet, 1785-1841. 

8 William Lewis Hughes, 1st Baron Dinorhen, 1767-1852. 

4 Arthur Marcus Cecil Hill, later Baron Sandys, 1708-1863, son 
of Arthur, 2d Marquis of Downshire. He later took the name of 
Sandys in lieu of that of Hill. 

6 Louisa Blake, daughter of Joseph, of South Carolina ; married, 
1837, Lord Arthur Marcus Cecil Hill. 

[ 164 ] 



CONCERT AT APSLEY HOUSE 

Miss Coutts introduced her Father, Sir Francis 
Burdett, to Mr. Webster. Between the two parts, 
the Duke approached Mrs. Webster, who was out 
for the first time, since her illness, and desired to 
have the pleasure of introducing us all, to the mem- 
bers present, of the Royal family ; seats for them 
exclusively, having been reserved in front of the 
performers, in the beautiful picture gallery I have 
previously described. A square space, in front, of 
the music was left unoccupied ; the remainder of the 
whole room, being fitted with yellow damask sofas 
ranged in rows, for the convenience of the listening 
guests. Into this prominent space, did we follow his 
Grace, and were respectively presented to his Royal 
Highness, the Duke of Cambridge, and their Royal 
Highnesses, the Duchess of Cambridge and the 
Duchess of Gloucester. With the Duke of Cam- 
bridge I myself had some conversation ; he addressed 
to me some remarks, and questions about our voy- 
age, and comparison of climates. Every eye and 
eyeglass while this was occurring, were upon this 
presentation scene, and it was curious to witness, 
how greatly some of us, rose in the estimation of 
some I could name, after this scene. We were also 
introduced to Sir Robert Peel, who reminded me 

[ 165 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

strongly of Mr. Edward Everett, 1 both in manner 
and in expression, but he is taller and stouter, and 
would be thought probably, a handsomer man, than 
Mr. Everett. Miss Peel was well dressed, and on a 
nearer view is extremely pretty. Sir Robert said, he 
hoped to see us all at " Drayton Manor " when we 
came to the Middle counties. He enquired our in- 
tended route to Scotland, and thought we should be 
pleased with the city of Edinburgh. Much gratified 
and delighted, we returned to our lodgings, at half 
past one o'clock. 

Thursday, August 1. Mr. Webster dines with the 
" Fishmongers " ; their hall is on the banks of the 
Thames, close to London bridge. Mrs. Stevenson, 
Mrs. Wiggin, Mrs. Bates and Mr. Van de Weyer, 
Sir Charles and Lady Bagot, Lord Lovelace, and 
Lord and Lady Normanby called. At one o'clock 
we went to see a Panorama of Rome, and another of 
the harbour of Malta. It is intended to represent 
the recent visit there, of the Dowager Queen Ade- 
laide ; the view was taken on the deck of a ship, 
and the water around the enclosure where we stood, 
so naturally represented, and the illusion so perfect, 
that Julia actually complained of seasickness ! Mrs. 

1 Edward Everett, 1794-1865 ; statesman, orator, and writer. 

[ 106 ] 



THE QUEEN'S AMUSEMENTS 

Austin who knows Malta well, assured us that it 
was almost a faithful representation, and worth the 
trouble of visiting. We afterward drove in the Park 
ivhere we met her Majesty riding as usual, except 
on a Sunday, when she drives; this is a recent ar- 
rangement, owing it is said, to the interference of 
the Archbishop, who has remonstrated of late, with 
the Queen, on the evil influence of her example, in 
making no distinction in her amusements on the 
Sabbath, and ordinary days of the week. Went to 
the Italian Opera, in the hope of hearing " I Puri- 
tani," which was announced for this evening, but 
we soon discovered, that it was " Lucia di Lammer- 
moor." On sending out, to ascertain the meaning of 
this, we learned, that the Queen, had ordered " I 
Puritani," but that in consequence of a certificate, 
signed by Grisi's physician, stating that she was 
" too ill to perform," the Lucia, with Persiani, was 
substituted. Her Majesty was present, attended by 
the Marchioness of Normanby; Mr. Murray, and 
others connected with the household, were also, in 
the Royal box. The Queen, contrary to her usual 
custom, remained to see the ballet, and the Duke 
and Duchess of Cambridge also patronized the two 
Elsslers, by their presence, during the " Gitana." 

[ 167 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Friday, August 2. We were much pleased at a 
visit paid to the " Inns of Court " this morning. It 
is in the city, between Fleet Street and the Strand ; 
to our satisfaction we read the names as we passed 
of " Lamb Court, Fig Tree Court, Mitre buildings, 
Pump Court, Paper Buildings," &c, &c. In the 
Commons hall, which we entered, at the upper end 
of the room, was a dais, where the judges dine, the 
barristers dine on the sides, and the students through 
the middle of the room. Each day, a clerk notes 
down the names of the students present, and all that 
is necessary for a student, is simply to be seen at 
the dinner, after he is sworn at the bar. All these 
buildings once belonged to the Knights Templars, 
and the ground now occupied by lawyers was pur- 
chased of them after their order was abolished. The 
roof is of oak darkened by time, and an orchestra, 
or formerly used as such, very beautifully carved in 
oak. Revels were held in these rooms in the olden 
time, and the Guide said " that Fox hunts were com- 
mon there ; the judges danced and sung in their 
wigs, and had all sorts of gay doings." The Temple 
gardens are very pretty, looking upon the river, and 
have a remarkable air of quiet, and seclusion, in the 
midst of so vast, and busy a city. We passed " Crosby 

C 168 ] 



AN ENGLISH FUNERAL 



Hall " formerly the abode of King Richard III. We 
saw nothing but its ancient exterior, and stained 
glass windows, in the broken panes of one, were 
stuffed gunny bags. Mrs. Bates took us to the ceme- 
tery of Kensal Green, enclosing an area of about 
fifty acres, upon the plan of " Pere la Chaise " in 
Paris. The purpose of our visit, was to the tomb of 
her Son, over which is a white marble monument : 
"To the memory of William Rufus Gray Bates, 1 
who was killed at Elton in Northamptonshire, on a 
shooting excursion, by the discharge of a gun." A 
funeral " was performing " in the chapel ; the hearse, 
and four black horses each decorated with the same 
coloured plumes, in bunches, coachmen, footmen, 
mutes, and other attendants in black, with silk scarfs 
around their hats, waving from a bow behind, and 
wearing also black broadcloth cloaks. This is a con- 
trast, to our simple manner of performing these sad 
rites ; a repugnant idea to hire others to mourn for 
the departed, but here it is the custom, and a com- 
mon advertisement in London, is a small-sized " hatch- 
ment" hung in the window and beneath it these 
words "Funerals performed." A hatchment is a 

1 William Rufns Gray Bates, 1815-34; named after William 
Rufus Gray, of Boston, 1783-1831. 

[ 169 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



lozenge, or diamond-shaped painting of the coat-of- 
arms of the deceased, and is hung in front of the 
house in a conspicuous position near the windows, 
the representation varying according to the rank, 
sex and age of the departed. They are similar to the 
coats-of-arms at the houses of our grandparents, em- 
broidered on black satin, and here, as they remain 
some time, they may be seen in almost any street, 
outside the houses of persons of any distinction. 
Drove afterward to Fenton's Hotel to bid adieu to 
our friends Mr. and Mrs. J. Douglas Bates, who sail 
this evening for St. Petersburg. Called also on Miss 
Jervis, Miss Sarah Eogers, Mrs. Charles Kerr, Mrs. 
McKinnon, Lady Burdett i and Daughters, Lady 
Belhaven, 2 Mrs. Dr. Boott and Mrs. Boott, and Mrs. 
Alexander Hanky. Attended a soiree at Miss 
Rogers', and met Lord and Lady Holland ; was 
agreeably impressed by the latter, after a long con- 
versation, notwithstanding previous prejudices ; they 
tell us however, that the entre to Holland House is 
a coveted distinction ; Lady Holland is attractive in 

1 Sophia Coutts, daughter of Thomas ; married, 1793, Sir Francis 
Burdett, Baronet; died, 1844. 

2 Hamilton Campbell, daughter of Walter Frederick ; married, 
1815, Sir Robert Montgomery Hamilton, 8th Baron Belhaven and 
Stenton ; died, 1873, aged 83. 

[ 170 ] 



LORD AND LADY HOLLAND 



personal appearance, with remains of extreme beauty, 
and grace. Lord Holland is bald headed, aged, and 
crippled with gout, and moves about with difficulty. 
They both however, appear to command high rever- 
ence, and respect. Mr. and Mrs. Milman, Mr. Har- 
ness, Lady and Sir William Chatterton, each added 
to the pleasure of this evening's entertainment. Miss 
Rogers leaves London to-morrow, on a Continental 
tour. 

Sunday, August 4. Mr. Webster had the honour 
to receive tickets to-day from the Archbishop of 
Canterbury, 1 to witness at Lambeth Palace, the con- 
secration of two bishops, and to attend a collation 
there, after the ceremony. At the last moment, the 
project was abandoned. Friends who have since come 
in, assure us that we have lost a rare opportunity; 
that the palace itself is a gem worth seeing, on ac- 
count of its antiquity, and interior beauty, independ- 
ent of the choice society the Bishop will assemble on 
so interesting an occasion. 

Mr. Morrison 2 has been here, and invites us to 
the South of England to his country seat called 

1 William Howley, 1766-1848 ; Archbishop of Canterbury, 
1828-48. 

3 James Morrison, 1790-1857 ; merchant and politician. 

[ 171 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Fonthill Abbey, formerly the residence of the cele- 
brated Mr. Beckford,i the author of " Vathek," &c. 
At five o'clock we met by appointment, at the Zoo- 
logical gardens, Lady Georgiana Fane, who was ac- 
companied by Lady Charles Somerset. We met in 
the " Parrot House," the Duke and the Duchess of 
Cambridge, with their little daughter the Princess 
Mary, 2 only four years of age, attended by Miss 
Kerr, one of their household. The little Princess left 
her parents, and shook hands quite gracefully with 
us all, and her parents were gracious, and convers- 
able. We met Lord Douglas (son of the Duke of 
Hamilton), walking about the grounds ; he is called 
the handsomest man in London. He is extremely 
like John Sullivan, excepting that he is much taller, 
and of course, handsomer, but I think the resem- 
blance is striking. Lady Georgiana introduced us to 
Sir Charles Lamb 3 the stepfather of Lord Eglin- 
ton, who is to give the approaching tournament on 
the 28th of August, also to Viscountess Forbes, 4 one 

i William Beckford, 1759-1844; author. 

2 Princess Mary Adelaide Wilhelmina Elizabeth ; born, 1833. 

8 Sir Charles Montolieu Lamb, 2d Baronet, 1785-1860. 

4 Frances Mary Territt, daughter of William ; married, 1832, 
George John Forbes, Viscount Forbes; she married, secondly, 1838, 
Thomas Nugent Vaughan, and died in 1877. 

[ 172 ] 



THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS 

of the Queen's bed-chamber women. She was look- 
ing at the bears, with her two lovely little boys, with 
curly light hair, and blue eyes. Lady Forbes is 
pretty, and appears amiable and good. Mrs. Web- 
ster who had been driving in the Park, met us by 
appointment, at the Garden gates, at half past six. 
She had the honour of meeting her Majesty who was 
taking a drive, and she gave her a most gracious 
bow of recognition. During our absence the Earl 1 
and Countess of Morton 2 called, the former left a 
most friendly note, begging Mr. Webster to come 
to " Dalmahoy " on his intended visit to Scotland, 
which I much hope we shall be enabled to do. Lady 
Georgiana invited us to tea this evening, to meet 
the Duchess of Richmond ; but Mr. Kenyon named 
9 o'clock, as the hour he would be with us, to say 
farewell, on his contemplated visit to Italy ; we there- 
fore declined Lady Georgiana's kind proposal. Miss 
Coutts, and Miss Meredith, have been here, the 
former, came to renew an invitation for dinner on 
Monday, and to Julia, and myself for the evening, 
but Mr. and Mrs. Webster are to have the honour 

1 George Sholto Douglas, 17th Earl of Morton, 1789-1858. 

2 Frances Theodora Rose, daughter of the Right Honorable Sir 
George Henry; married, 1817, George Sholto Douglas, 17th Earl 
of Morton; died, 1879. 

[ 173 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

of dining with her Majesty, and cannot therefore 
dine with Miss Coutts, and Julia and myself have 
received a Royal command to appear at a small 
party at the Palace afterward. We have bidden 
adieu to Mr. Kenyon with sincere regret ; as the pe- 
riod of his return to England is uncertain, we may 
not meet again. 

After the introduction at the Duke's (it being 
considered etiquette so to do), we left our names on 
the visiting list, of the different members of the 
Royal family on Friday last, instead of leaving a 
card, which is never done in this case. The Porter 
at the gate produces the visiting book, which is 
handed into the carriage, to which we added our 
names, and residence. At Apsley House we left our 
cards ; how many hours have we consumed in this 
way, during our residence here, but we submit to an 
unavoidable evil ! 

Yesterday I saw for the first time the " Highland 
Fling," most appropriately named, danced by a 
Highlander "all plaided and kilted" in front of 
our windows. To-night I have been to " Vauxhall," 
a place which, although no longer fashionable, is so 
associated with Miss Burney's heroines that I felt a 
desire to visit it, and went in company with Mr. 

[ 174 ] 



PARTY AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE 

Rush,* and some other friends. These gardens are 
lighted with coloured lamps, in a similar style to 
Niblo's in New York. There were various exhibitions, 
in fireworks, and a stage, upon which dogs and mon- 
keys were so admirably trained, that they performed 
a great variety of wonderful, and surprising feats. 

Monday, August 5. Mr. Rogers has been sitting 
with us, and we enjoyed for an hour his delightful 
conversation. Lady Georgiaua Fane also called. De- 
clined an invitation from the Dowager Lady Charle- 
ville, 2 and punctually, at ten o'clock (the hour named), 
Julia and myself left our lodgings for Buckingham 
palace. I confess that, alone and unattended, except 
of course by our Footman, we both experienced some 
trepidation, as we approached the Royal residence, 
guarded about the porticos by the Yeomen of the 
Guard, but summoning all our courage we alighted, 
and entered, and ascended the grand and stately 
marble staircase, with no other companions, save its 
numerous attendants ranged on each side, even to 
the door of the mirrored saloon, where her Majesty 

1 Benjamin Bush, of Pennsylvania, Secretary of Legation at 
London, 1839. 

2 Catharine Maria Tisdall, widow of James, and daughter of 
Thomas Townley Dawson ; married, 1798, Charles William Bury, 
1st Earl of Charleville ; died, 1851, aged 90. 

[ 175 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



was. Mr. Webster and Mr. Charles Murray were 
awaiting our arrival at the doorway ; the Lord Cham- 
berlain instantly advanced, and signified briefly, that 
it was the Queen's pleasure, we should immediately 
approach, the royal presence and make our devoirs. 
This we did, in the best way we were able, the Queen, 
in the most gracious manner, acknowledging our 
courtesies, and pronouncing in a loud and distinct 
voice, our separate names. Lord Ashley had just 
shaken hands with me, and Lady Forbes also, when 
I perceived by certain commotions, that something 
was about to occur ; Lady Forbes, and others who 
were near me at the doorway, instantly retreated 
" en face " into the adjoining room, and formed a 
line, on each side. Through this, the Lord Chamber- 
lain appeared, backing forward, followed by others 
in office, about the household, doing the same, and 
soon the Queen appeared, and from the opposite end 
of this gallery into which we had bached, appeared 
the Royal family, including the Duke and Duchess 
of Cambridge, and Princess Augusta ; they advanced, 
placed themselves in a line, and Her Majesty em- 
braced them all, kissing each. She then passed on, 
saluting others stationed each side, and entered the 
dancing-room. In the melee I was separated from 

[ 170 ] 



PARTY AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE 

my friends, and was therefore under many obliga- 
tions to Lady Forbes, who gave me her arm, and 
also some friendly instructions, as to the Court eti- 
quette. Indeed throughout the evening Lady Forbes 
was most attentive, as well as Mr. Vaughan, 1 her 
husband, confirming my previous agreeable impres- 
sions of her Ladyship, at the Horticultural gardens 
on Sunday. Mr. Murray afterward congratulated 
Julia and myself on having got over, " selon la regie," 
the generally dreaded devoirs to her Majesty, re- 
marking that persons were not infrequently, obliged 
to wait a long time, for a fitting opportunity to do 
their duty in this particular, that the interval was 
always an awkward, and unpleasant one, and that it 
was evident from the Queen's manner of receiving 
Julia, and myself, that she was pleased with our 
punctuality, we being the first guests, who appeared 
after dinner. The Throne-room was the dancing- 
room, the Queen commencing the first, with the 
Hereditary Duke of Saxe-Weimar. 2 The Marchion- 
ess of Normanby left the side of the Queen, to 
whom she was in attendance, and introduced her 

1 Thomas Nugent Vaughan ; married, 1838, Viscountess Forbes ; 
died, 1847. 

2 Charles Frederick, Duke of Saxe-Weimar, succeeded in 1828. 

[ 177 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



son, Lord Mulgrave, 1 who invited me to a quadrille 
in the set with her Majesty, but I declined, fearing 
that in so novel a position, I might make some faux 
pas in the figures, which are many of them quite dif- 
ferent from our own manner of dancing them ; every- 
body too, looks at the Queen's set. Julia however, 
having more courage on this occasion, accepted an 
invitation, and danced in the Royal quadrille. Her 
Majesty was dressed with great simplicity, in a white 
tulle over white satin, trimmed with pink roses, and 
pink roses in her hair, and a diamond necklace looped 
behind in the braids of her hair, and a diamond 
feroniere. Countess Ailesbury 2 wore white crepe, 
trimmed with a profusion of diamonds around the 
neck, sleeves &c, of her dress. Lady Seymour was 
in white, trimmed with cherry, and the Duchess of 
Sutherland in black. Mrs. Webster's dress was a 
very rich, and superb yellow brocade, embroidered 
in various coloured flowers. Julia and myself, white 
tulle dresses, very similar to the Queen's, and 
trimmed in a similar manner with flowers ! The sup- 

1 Sir George Augustus Constantine Phipps, Earl of Mulgrave, 
later 2d Marquis of Normanby, 1819-90 ; statesman. 

2 Maria, widow of Charles John Clarke, and daughter of the 
Honorable Charles Tollemache ; married, 1833, Charles Brudenell- 
Bruce, Marquis and Earl of Ailesbury. 

[ 178 ] 



DINNER WITH THE QUEEN 



per table was laid in the Picture gallery, and bril- 
liant with gold plate, and candelabra, in a similar 
style to that of the great ball. Being much fatigued, 
and to complete all our arrangements for our de- 
parture on the morrow, we stole away before her 
Majesty went to supper at half past twelve ; the 
party however, did not break up until 4 o'clock. 
Mrs. Webster appears to have highly enjoyed the 
Royal dinner. Two bands were playing in adjoining 
apartments, the Queen was first helped on all occa- 
sions, and after dinner she had quite a conversation 
with her Majesty, when she did me the honour to 
make the enquiry, " if Mrs. Paige were a married, 
or single woman, as there had been great discussion 
at the palace, whether it was Mrs. or Miss Paige " ! 
At the close of the dinner the Queen's health was 
drunk, all standing, she alone sitting, and bowing 
all around during this ceremony. Mrs. Webster 
sat between the Earl of Uxbridge 1 and Lord Bel- 
fast, 2 the former handing her in to the dinner. Mr. 
Webster also had a long conversation with her Ma- 
jesty, he thought her intelligent, and agreeable. She 

1 Henry Paget, Earl of Uxbridge, 1797-1869, later 2d Marquis 
of Anglesey. 

2 George Hamilton Chichester, Lord Belfast, 1797-18S3, later 
3d Marquis of Donegall. 

C 179 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

is also said to be energetic, and with a decided will of 
her own, and on a recent occasion, she thus replied to 
Lords Melbourne, and Palmerston, who were urging 
her on some point, to which she was averse, " What 
is the use of being a Queen, if one cannot do as one 
likes " ? Her Majesty appeared highly to enjoy the 
dance, and was ready with her little foot forward, to 
commence, the first moment the music sounded, keep- 
ing time with her head, and having ready both hands 
to give, on each side, for the figure of " all round " 
which invariably commences the quadrilles here. As 
the Princess Victoria she was celebrated for her 
graceful waltzing, as well as for her charming sing- 
ing, with the pianoforte, but as a Queen, these accom- 
plishments are considered as undignified, and her 
voice is now heard only in the privacy of her own 
closet, and never in the drawing-rooms of the palace, 
as formerly. 



IV 



gpountep tfjrougf) <£nglanti anfc W&lt$ 

TUESDAY, August 6. Craven Arms, Coventry, 
Warwick County. 

We reached this place at 8 o'clock, having left 
London at half past two, placing our carriage upon 
the railway, in which we were, ourselves. The house 
is painting, and undergoing repairs, and our accom- 
modations are not the best, but the people are civil 
and obliging. 

Wednesday, August 7. Angel Inn, Alcester, 
County of Warwick. At eight o'clock this morn- 
ing we sallied forth to visit St. Michael's church, 
the largest parish church in England; to the spire, 
which is very beautiful, it is 303 feet; its interior 
is 300 feet in length and 80 feet in width. It is on 
the whole a striking edifice of fine proportions. We 
went after this to see an ancient hall called St. 
Mary's, which owes its celebrity principally to the 
fact that Henry VI once held a parliament there ; 
we saw some curious relics, and a piece of tap- 

[ 181 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

estry worked by the nuns. Our next visit was to 
the Ribbon Manufactory of Mr. John Dresser, and 
we saw the whole process of making ribbon, from 
the winding of the raw silk on the reels, to the last 
process of weaving by perforated cards, to guide the 
pattern, in the same manner as in the carpet weav- 
ing at Lowell. Leaving Coventry at ten o'clock, in 
the midst of a shower of rain, we drove to " Kenil- 
worth," a distance of five miles. How beautiful 
were the ruins, and how green was the ivy, made 
brighter, and greener by the passing rain ! How 
heartfelt was the sigh to the memory of poor Amy 
Robsart ! We wandered about these picturesque 
relics of Queen Elizabeth's career, and went back to 
Scott and Kenilworth with a keener relish than be- 
fore. I have seen nothing yet that has given me 
greater satisfaction. A curious relic was exhibited 
as we passed out by the Guide, demanding at the 
same time his extra six pences, it was a marble man- 
telpiece, once belonging to the castle, having on its 
centre this inscription " Droit et loyal " and on its 
side, was the date 1571. Our guide could tell us 
nothing of the place of poor Amy's abode in Kenil- 
worth castle, and I fancy it was but a license of the 
" Wizard of the North " to place her there at all, 

[ 182 ] 



KENILWORTH 



for this evening, on accidentally opening a book, 
which treats among other things, of " various anec- 
dotes, concerning the reign of Queen Elizabeth," I 
found the following paragraph : " That Dudley Earl 
of Leicester had married the heiress, and daughter, 
of Sir John Robsart, but as that lady was not per- 
mitted to appear at court, her Lord allotted for her 
residence a lonely mansion called Cumnor in Berk- 
shire, where she suddenly died, by an accidental 
fall, but under such suspicious circumstances, as to 
impress the public with the belief, that she had been 
murdered." 

From Kenilworth we drove through Leamington 
a new, and fashionable watering place, to visit the 
hereditary residence of the Earl of Warwick. We 
left our carriage at the inn, and walked to the 
castle, the approach to which is very beautiful. The 
river Avon washes the castle walls, and the view 
from the bridge in the town of Warwick, over this 
river, is picturesque in the extreme. The entrance 
hall is spacious, and contains many specimens of an- 
cient armour, hung around its walls. The rooms 
contain some good old pictures, and particularly a 
celebrated portrait of Marie Stuart, representing a 
decidedly handsome woman, with her son James I, 

C 183 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



standing by her side ; the authenticity of the picture 
is unquestionable, and it has been seen, and visited 
by millions. " Strong," or " Grey's tower," built as 
early as the reign of Edward III, is ascended by 
133 steps, but the magnificent view from its battle- 
ments (surpassing even the Round tower at Wind- 
sor), fully rewards one's exertions. This, for extent, 
and variety cannot certainly, be surpassed. In the 
Greenhouse, was the celebrated Warwick vase, pre- 
sented by George IV, to a former Earl. The copies, 
and imitations from this original, are so numerous, 
that it would be difficult not to have previously 
formed, a correct idea of its general appearance, and 
fine proportions. From this castle, a still greater 
pleasure awaited us, in our long anticipated visit to 
the birthplace of Shakspeare, " Stratford-on-Avon." 
The room where the " mighty master of the magic 
lyre " first drew breath, is low, and small, the kitchen 
underneath, with a very old stone paved floor, and 
the staircase up which he went, narrow, and dark ; 
the walls were white-washed, and covered with names, 
there was scarcely a vacant spot ; among them, we 
read Walter Scott's, beneath his, was that of Wil- 
liam Lockhart, in the same hand (he is brother to 
the son-in-law of Scott) ; Schiller's autograph was 

[ 184 ] 



STRATFORD-ON-AVON 



here too, the Empress of Russia's and Washington 
Irving's; above his name, the latter wrote: 

" Of mighty Shakspeare's birth the room we see; 
That where he died, in vain to find we try ; 
Useless the search : for all immortal he, 
And those who are immortal, never die." 

By dint of some persuasion, Mr. Webster grati- 
fied us by placing his name in a vacant corner of 
the wall near the window, and we then proceeded a 
little distance, to visit the church of Avon, where 
the remains of the great poet lie. In the chancel near 
the north wall elevated a few feet from the main 
floor, is the stone, covering the grave, with the sub- 
joined not unfamiliar lines: 

" Good frend, for Jesus sake forbeare, 
To digg the dust encloased heare ; 
Bleste be y e man y' spares thes stones, 
And curst be he y* moves my bones." 

In consequence of the imprecation contained in 
these lines, and the horror, which Shakspeare is 
supposed to have entertained, of the custom of re- 
moving the bones, from the grave to the charnel 
house, they have never been removed as they would 
otherwise have been, to Westminster Abbey, but re- 
main unmolested, but not unrevered, or unvisited, 
as thousand upon thousands of pilgrims, to Strat- 

[ 185 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ford Church, can testify. So much in honour of 
human nature, can be said of him, whose genius 
knew no rival ! Above the stone, in a niche, in the 
wall, is a bust, generally acknowledged now, to be 
a correct representation of the Poet. Copies of it, 
are abundant about England. Fortunately for us, 
the Shakspeare pew was just undergoing repairs, 
and a small piece of the timber of the floor, was so 
far preserved, as to allow Mr. Webster to remove it, 
and he has carefully laid aside the relic, to manu- 
facture a penhandle or two, for friends at home, who 
will fully appreciate its value. From this conse- 
crated spot we returned to the Red Lion Inn, and 
soon after were on our way to this place, " Alcester," 
from which I am now writing the " experiences " of 
the day. Mr. Webster has been out to visit a needle 
manufactory, and has brought us specimens of needle 
making, in all its various branches. 

August 8. Gloucester. We have just reached this 
place (7 o'clock), having left Alcester at 8 o'clock 
this morning. We went first to Worcester which is 
" quite a place," and in a state of unusual excite- 
ment and bustle, on account of the races. Our ob- 
ject was the spacious and beautiful cathedral 400 
feet in length, and 80 broad in the transepts. It 

[ 186 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER AT THE TOMB OP SHAKESPEARE 
From an engraving designed by Schuessele for Godey's Magazine 



WORCESTER TO GLOUCESTER 

contains several monuments, but a modern one of 
Chantrey's attracted me by its beautiful design and 
execution. It was erected by a clergyman in mem- 
ory of a beloved wife, and consists of a single, 
female figure most gracefully reclining on the tomb, 
with the eyes upturned. It is touching, beautiful. 
We afterward went to the china manufactory, and 
were initiated into all the mysteries of china mak- 
ing, from the grinding and preparing of the clay, to 
the painting, and baking. From Worcester we pro- 
ceeded to Tewkesbury, where we dined; thence to 
Cheltenham, a watering place, and beautiful town, 
and has the finest hotel we have yet seen. Glouces- 
ter was our next post 8 miles beyond, and here after 
a drive of fifty miles, over a road perfectly smooth 
and level, through a most rich, and beautiful coun- 
try, we are passing the night. Mr. Webster and 
Julia, have gone out to see the Cathedral, while 
I stay at home to write this. 

August 9. Aust, Old passage, Gloucestershire. 
We left "Gloucester" this morning at seven o'clock, 
and soon reached " Stroud " twelve miles distant, 
where we changed horses, and of course postillions. 
Our next post was " Cross Hands," 17 miles ; then on 
to " Bath " where we dined. This well known water- 

[ 187 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ing place is really a beautiful city ; it is in Somer- 
setshire on the river Avon. We spent two hours in 
driving about, and met many invalids taking eques- 
trian exercise on donkeys. The water strongly re- 
sembles those of the Hot Springs in Virginia, the 
natural temperature is about 104 degrees; a male 
and a female sit near a marble vase, into which the 
water is pumped from a reservoir behind, issuing 
forth from this vase, through a serpent's mouth, also 
of marble. A gilt railing surrounds the spot, on the 
ledge of which are placed the goblets of water, much 
discoloured, by their strong chalybeate properties, as 
is the case in Virginia, and at Hopkinton Springs. 
The public bath without any roof, is looked upon 
from the windows of the pump room. Formerly, 
both sexes bathed here together, now, they have 
alternate days. The bath is about the size of the 
Octagonal one at the Hot Springs, in Virginia. At 
the head of the room is a full length statue of 
" Beau Nash " the former master of ceremonies ; 
also busts of Pope and Newton. A Gothic abbey 
church, is near ; it has been called the " lantern of 
England," in consequence of its many windows, fifty- 
two in number. It contains many monuments ; an 
epitaph on Quin, by Garrick, and another on Nash, 

[ 188 ] 



BATH AND BRISTOL 



one also to a former member of the American Sen- 
ate, Mr. William Bingham, the father of Lady Ash- 
burton, he died here at the age of 49, having come 
here in pursuit of lost health. In driving about, we 
came upon a very handsome monument " by the 
visitors, and citizens of Bath, to the Princess Vic- 
toria on her majority." We dined at the York Hotel, 
and left afterward for Bristol and Clifton ; from the 
former the British Queen and the Great Western 
sail. It is on the river Avon, about ten miles from 
its junction with the Severn, and is partly in Glouces- 
tershire, and partly in Somersetshire. In the cathe- 
dral, which we only saw " en passant," are those 
exquisite verses, by Mason, 1 on the death of his wife, 
familiar to us, and as we drove onward to Clifton 
the memory of each was taxed to repeat them 
correctly. 

Epitaph on Mrs. Mason 

" Take, holy Earth ! all that my soul holds dear : 

Take that best gift which Heav'n so lately gave : 
To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care 

Her faded form : she bow'd to taste the wave, 
And died. Does Youth, does Beauty, read the line ? 

Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm ? 
Speak, dead Maria ! breathe a strain divine : 

Ev'n from the grave thou shalt have power to charm. 



1 William Mason, 1724-97 ; poet. 
[ 189 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

" Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee ; 

Bid them in Duty's sphere as meekly move ; 
And if so fair, from vanity as free ; 

As firm in friendship, and as fond in love. 
Tell them, tho' 't is an awful thing to die, 

('T was ev'n to thee) yet the dread path once trod, 
Heav'n lifts its everlasting portals high, 

And bids ' the Pure in heart behold their God.' ' 

Clifton appears a lovely spot, but it was raining 
too violently to explore its beauties. They however, 
are evidently great, and its celebrity apparently not 
without foundation. This was for some time the resi- 
dence of Mrs. Henry l and family, the sister of Mrs. 
Isaac P. Davis. The houses at Bath, are built of 
stone, and are very regular, but discoloured like 
those of London by smoke, and exposure. The road 
from Gloucester to Stroud, was extremely beautiful, 
and highly cultivated, and four or five miles before 
reaching Bath, the country was variegated, and de- 
lightful. Twelve miles from Clifton is "Aust" or 
the " old passage," as it is called, where we are un- 
expectedly passing the night, in consequence of the 
swollen state of the tide, of the River Severn, over 
which, we must pass, in a ferry boat. The steamboat 
will not cross to this side until to-morrow morning: ; 

1 Mary Miller Jackson, 1789-1876, daughter of Dr. David, of 
Philadelphia; married, 1811, Lieutenant Bernard Henry. 

[ 190 ] 



MONMOUTHSHIRE 



it not only rains, but blows, and we are at a small, 
but comfortable inn with a blazing fire this 9th day of 
August, 1839. A picnic party from Tin tern Abbey has 
just crossed the river in an open boat, notwithstand- 
ing the unpromising state of things ; they are twenty 
in number, somewhat " draggled," and weary ; look- 
ing like the finale of most other, " parties of pleas- 
ure." I do not envy their drive, in open vehicles, 
back to Bristol, and their own faces, look not very 
bright, at the rainy prospect before them. 

August 10. Monmouth, Monmouthshire. We 
were detained at the Aust ferry until twelve o'clock 
this morning. We crossed in a steamboat, the hull 
of which was made of iron, and had the agreeable 
accompaniment of a drove of pigs, on board. A 
drive of three miles brought us to " Chepstow," 
with its picturesque and beautiful castle, built in the 
time of the conquest, but now in ruins. It stands on 
a high rock, overlooking the river Wye. The ivy is 
clinging to this, like other ruins, and forms a beau- 
tiful and striking contrast to the grey stone of its 
construction. Wales is rich in ruins, and along this 
lovely river, there is much in the scenery, to gratify 
and delight a traveller. A few miles further brought 
us to " Wynd Cliff," a crescent shaped, steep, and 

[ 191 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

high ascent, somewhat resembling the Palisades of 
the river Hudson. The ascent was fatiguing, over 
more than three hundred stone steps, cut out of the 
rock, winding round the cliff. The top is beautifully 
wooded, and the view from it, very extensive, embrac- 
ing the rivers Wye, and Severn, and nine counties. 
Our guide was a Welsh girl, whose dialect, between 
Welsh and English, was very amusing and peculiar. 
At the bottom of the cliff was a very pretty little 
cottage, covered entirely with moss, with rustic chairs, 
sofas &c, where we reposed, and enjoyed a hearty 
lunch. Another party were doing the same in an- 
other room of "Moss Cottage" previous to their 
ascending the cliff. One mile beyond this, is " Tin- 
tern Abbey" about which my imagination was al- 
ready highly excited, from the views I had seen, and 
from all I had read of these celebrated ruins, but I 
do not exaggerate, when I declare, that imagination 
fell far short of reality, as I entered, and gazed 
within, this truly romantic ruin, with no roof save the 
blue vault of heaven, and no floor but the closely 
shaven turf. Many of the pillars, of exquisite shape 
and proportion, that once supported the roof, remain, 
and the walls are still entire. The whole that remains 
is in the purest, and most beautiful Gothic style ; 

[ 192 ] 



TINTERN ABBEY 



the three windows, and particularly the Southern 
one, with its beautiful tracery work, and lovely view, 
are as picturesque, and enchanting, as imagination 
can paint. The green, glossy ivy, was clinging, and 
waving around, and about, as if the hand of art had 
regulated all its movements. Part of the cloisters 
are remaining, and also the Almoner's window, from 
which the fragments from the Monks' table, were 
handed to the poor, on the other side. These monks 
were Cistercians, and like " Friar Tuck," probably 
knew how to enjoy the blessings of a " venison pasty," 
and other such like dainties. Standing against a pil- 
lar in the South transept, is a stone figure of a mailed 
knight, much broken, and disfigured, and elsewhere 
is a partial one, of the Virgin and child, and a muti- 
lated head of a " reverend father." Some ancient 
pavement had been recently discovered, under the 
rubbish, and our guide remarked, that next year, 
they would dig, in a corresponding spot, on the other 
side, in the hope of finding more. With the deepest 
reluctance, and with never-to-be-forgotten feelings, 
of awe, and of delight, we took leave of this enchant- 
ing spot, our eyes still lingering in the distance, until 
the winding of the road, about this charming river 
Wye, shut it (forever, I fear'), from our view. A 

[ 193 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

quick drive of eight miles, brought us to this spot 
(from which I date), and after dining, we took a 
"fly and pair," and once more proceeded on our sight- 
seeing excursions. The three interesting objects I 
have previously described, are on the estates of the 
Duke of Beaufort, whose son, and heir, so handsome, 
and promising, we saw at Eton college. This " Rag- 
lan Castle " must now be added to the list. An- 
other rapid drive, of another eight miles, and we 
stopped before this baronial ruin, of Norman archi- 
tecture, destroyed in the 17th century, during the 
civil wars, like so many others, by Cromwell and 
his followers. The entrance is imposing, but the 
hectagonal towers, are too entirely covered with ivy, 
impeding its beauty ; there is too much here, of a 
good thing. The " moat " is still filled with water, 
and the " keep " commands a very pretty, although 
not extended prospect. It is a modern ruin of its 
kind. In 1646 the castle was besieged and with 800 
men held out against its besiegers, for a space of 
three months. Their last resource was this " keep " ; 
they surrendered upon terms, and the brutal soldiery 
are said, to have destroyed the third finest library 
in the world. We walked upon the terrace from 
which is a view, that must be tempting to an artist. 

[ 194 J 



RAGLAN CASTLE 



The sun had however, already set, warning us of the 
lapse of time, and of the intended drive back to Mon- 
mouth where we are to pass the night. The religious 
ruins of " Tintern Abbey," ought not justly, to be 
compared with those just described, because both 
are beautiful of their kind, and possess a distinct 
and separate interest. But notwithstanding, I cannot 
but give the preference to "Tintern," which from 
its hallowed, and solemn associations, is more consist- 
ent with one's ideas, of what a ruin should be! To 
my own taste, the architecture of " Raglan " is infe- 
rior, to the other. The delightful surprise, I felt on 
first viewing that, I shall never forget. It is how- 
ever, a great pleasure to have seen Raglan, and a 
subject of congratulation, that we had the persever- 
ance to make this expedition, which previous fatigue, 
had strongly tempted us, altogether, to abandon. 

Sunday Evening, August 11. Commercial Inn, 
Hereford, Herefordshire. Mr. Webster and Julia 
attended church this morning at " Monmouth," while 
I, remained with Mrs. Webster, wrote letters home, 
and finished, and despatched them by the mail that 
stopped just afterward, on its way to London. At 5 
o'clock we proceeded to " Hereford " where we are 
passing the night, twenty miles beyond " Monmouth," 

[ 195 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

on the river Wye. Julia, Mr. Webster and myself 
have just returned from visiting the cathedral. Like 
most others, its form is that of the Greek Cross, of 
Gothic architecture ; the cloisters are quite perfect. 
We were desirous of ascertaining something more 
about this structure, and soon found a man, who 
acted as guide, but one may judge of the extent of 
the information procured in this way, by his reply 
to Mr. Webster's enquiry, of : " When was this 
cathedral built ? " "I don't know Sir (touching his 
hat), it was afore my time Sir" We afterward dis- 
covered the date, partly in Latin, on one of the stone 
doors, 1119. " Hereford " is said to have given birth 
to " Garrick," and to " Nell Gwyn," the house still 
exists, where the latter was born. As we drove along 
the banks of the river this evening, we passed the 
town of 'Ross,' and quite distinctly saw the house 
once occupied by Pope's "Man of Ross," whose 
actual name was " Kyrle." * 

August 12. Oswestry, Shropshire. Leaving " Here- 
ford" at a quarter before 7 this morning, we drove 
thirteen miles, to Leominster, to breakfast. Our 
next post was " Ludlow," eleven miles, where we 
stopped a short time, to see " Ludlow Castle," cele- 
1 John Kyrle, 1637-1724; philanthropist; "The Man of Ross." 

[ 196 ] 



SHREWSBURY 



brated as having been the place where Milton's 
" Comus " was first performed, and where Butler 1 
wrote, a part of " Hudibras." It is now an exten- 
sive ruin, less garlanded than usual with ivy; it is 
interesting also from having been a royal residence, 
and from Prince Arthur, brother to Henry VIII, 
having died there. The town of Ludlow is situated 
on the confluence of the river " Corve," with the 
" Teme." From this place, sixteen miles, is "Church 
Stretton " just beyond which, is the " Hill of Ca- 
ractacus," and on its top, are still visible, some inter- 
esting remains of an old British Camp. The region 
abounds in picturesque hills. At the "Lion Hotel, 
Shrewsbury," thirteen miles beyond, we dined. While 
dinner was serving, Julia, and I, made an excur- 
sion to a confectioner's, where "Royal Shrewsbury 
Cakes " were advertised, and purchased a round box, 
containing the same, just of a size to hold the cakes, 
piled one above another, the size of a " milk biscuit " 
and of a similar consistency. We also walked to an 
old church, to set our watches by " Shrewsbury 
clock," so often quoted from Shakspeare. 

This Metropolis of Shropshire is prettily situated 
on a hill, 

1 Samuel Butler, 1612-80 ; satirist. 
[ 197 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

" While Severn like an eel, curves gliding by." 

It is also called " Salop," I believe, and was some- 
what conspicuous during, the civil wars of Charles I. 
There seemed to be several towers, and spires, but 
we were debarred the pleasure of a longer sojourn, 
and pursued our way toward " Oswestry," from 
which place, I now write, in a comfortable home-like 
apartment, with a good sea-coal fire! We are but 
two miles from Wales. The late Earl Powis x ap- 
pears to be spoken of here in terms of great respect, 
and veneration. He died recently, at the advanced 
age of eighty. He owned Ludlow Castle, and a very 
large estate beside. Our guide told us this morning, 
during our visit to the above-named castle ruins, 
that the two young Princes were confined there, in 
a tower, which she showed us, where they remained, 
until carried to London, there to meet their sad, un- 
timely fate. We are at the " Wynnstay Arms " on 
the estate of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, 2 one of the 
oldest families in England, and himself one of the 
largest proprietors; his possessions extend in one 
direction fifty miles. " Oswestry " is situated on an 
eminence near the canal, that unites the Severn, 

1 Edward Clive, 1st Earl of Powis, 1754-1839. 

2 Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, 1772-1840. 

[ 198 ] 



WALES 



with the Mersey. Two miles from Shrewsbury, at a 
place called Shelton, we alighted from our carriage 
to see an old oak, said to be the tree that Owen 
Glendower ascended, to reconnoitre, before the bat- 
tle of Shrewsbury, 1403. It is 44 feet, 3 inches in 
circumference. We all stood together in the hollow 
of this tree, which would have held, with conven- 
ience, four, or five others. According to Mr. Web- 
ster's measurement, it was twelve feet through from 
one side, to the other. On our left, just beyond, was 
the battle-ground, and scene of the battle between 
Hotspur and Henry VIII. 

August 13. Capel-Curig, Carnarvon, Wales. A 
half an hour ago, we reached this romantic spot 
among the Welsh mountains, reminding me some- 
what of the scenery about Harper's Ferry, in Vir- 
ginia. According to the custom of the country, a 
Welsh harper (a grey-headed, venerable old man), 
is playing in the hall near our door, the tune of 
" My name 's Edward Morgan, I live at Llangollen 
&c" ; but I must go back to Oswestry, which we 
left at 8 o'clock this morning. At 9 we drove 
through the beautiful park, and grounds of Lord 
Duncannon, a member of Parliament. The house is 
of stone, in excellent taste, and the adjoining grounds 

[ 199 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

highly cultivated. As the hour was much too early 
for a call, Mr. Webster merely sent in his card, and 
compliments. We afterwards learned, that our con- 
jectures were right, that his Lordship had not risen. 
On our way toward Llangollen, we went to visit 
Chirk Castle, the seat of Mrs. Myddleton-Biddulph ; ! 
the position is very elevated, and commands a beauti- 
ful, and extensive prospect. From its top, seventeen 
counties are said to be visible. The house-keeper 
conducted us through various apartments, the walls 
of which were hung mostly with ancient portraits. 
Among them, those of Charles I, and II, Nell Gwyn, 
and Jane Shore ; also an ebony cabinet, beautifully 
inlaid with silver, and with ivory paintings of scrip- 
ture subjects, presented by Charles II to the ances- 
tors of this family. It was also our intention to 
have seen something of the parks of " Wynnstay," 
but we had ultimately to content ourselves with a 
distant view of the house, as the outlet through 
these parks, would bring us in a wrong direction for 
the " Vale of Llangollen." In the vicinity of Llan- 
gollen, which abounds in sweet scenery, is " Crow 
Castle," a Welsh ruin, of great antiquity, on the 

1 Charlotte Myddleton, daughter of Richard; married, 1801, 
Robert Biddulph, who assumed the name of Myddleton. 

[ 200 ] 



THE WELSH 



top of a very high mountain ; it appears quite inac- 
cessible, although the ruins are distinctly seen from 
the roadside. In the distance, just beyond, is an- 
other ruin of the Cistercian Monks, covered with 
ivy, forming a charming feature in the prospect. At 
the " King's Arms," Celrnioge (pronounced " Ker- 
niogy"), we dined. A drive of 15 miles (through 
the Welsh mountains, over a fine road made by the 
Government, from Shrewsbury, to Holyhead, a dis- 
tance of 104 miles), and we reached "Capel-Curig," 
our present abode for this night. The Welsh women 
were occupied, in all directions, hay-making; they 
wear men's beaver hats, over white caps, and in two 
or three instances, they were walking along the road- 
side, knitting with the greatest ease, and rapidity, 
at the same time, they had rakes in their hands, and 
a basket on their heads ! As our carriage stopped, 
at any place, the women, and children would crowd 
in numbers about us, and offer us all varieties of 
knit stockings, caps &c, to purchase. They were 
generally of wool, and coarse materials, fit only for 
the wear of the peasants themselves. We are much 
amused in listening to the Welsh tongue, spoken by 
our post-boys, and by the natives themselves. One 
half of them can neither speak, nor understand Eng- 

[ 201 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

lish. We are now entirely among the mountains in 
North Wales, and Snowdon, the highest, is seen to 
great advantage from the garden of this house. It 
is eight miles distant toward the South West; its 
top is 2971 feet above the level of the sea. We are 
now 584 feet, above, ourselves. The principal river 
in Wales is the Dee ; they are all beautiful how- 
ever, and run through the high mountains, over 
rocks, and form many sweet cascades, and pretty 
cataracts. " Shallow Fall," a few miles hence, is ex- 
tremely pretty, falling over declivities of rocks, form- 
ing a miniature resemblance, to our own " Trenton 
Falls." The old harper has found his way again to 
our parlour door, and is giving us at this moment 
" A rose tree, in full bearing," con molto spirito. 

Mr. Webster has been saying, that one effect of 
the " Reform bill," has been, to turn most of the 
Whig members out of the representation of the coun- 
ties, and most of the conservative members out of 
the representation of the large, and populous towns ; 
he apprehends, this may lead to an injurious clash- 
ing of interests, and feelings. He thinks also, from 
all he can learn, that the old aristocracy, is more ex- 
clusive, and inclined to bear a sterner part, toward 
men, not of their order, than they were before this 

[ 202 ] 



THE REFORM BILL 



Reform bill, especially toward those persons of liberal 
politics who owe their importance principally to their 
money. A gentleman of education, who had been 
friendly to the reform, and was supposed to be of 
radical tendencies, remarked that his family received 
no more invitations to such houses, as they had be- 
fore. Mr. Webster thinks it doubtful, whether the 
Reform bill has not rather embittered, than soothed, 
the social interests, and feelings of the community, 
because, while it has made one step, and a very im- 
portant one, toward the equalization of political 
power, it has left the inequality of personal condi- 
tion, as great as it was before, and much more likely 
to be complained of. Mr. Myddleton-Biddulph * is a 
Whig (the son of the lady owner of Chirk Castle) ; 
he lost his election as Member of Parliament this 
year, and also, the two preceding ones. 

August 14. Beaumaris, Island of Anglesey. Not- 
withstanding a profuse rain, our drive from " Capel- 
Curig " was far from being disagreeable. Our road 
lay through steep, high, barren mountains, composed 
of rocks, out of which the mountain streams were 
rushing with beautiful rapidity ; this road was a con- 
tinuation of the one of yesterday. The sheep, and 

1 Robert Myddleton-Biddulph, 1805-72. 
[ 203 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

cattle were browsing on the hills, and the cottages 
were constructed entirely of the stones found on the 
mountains, and were consequently scarcely distin- 
guishable from the mountains themselves. The sheep 
look like white pebble stones on the mountain side; 
altogether the scenery was singularly novel, and wild. 
Fifteen miles from the place of our departure this 
morning are the Slate quarries of Mr. Pennant, who 
employs upon them twenty-three hundred men. The 
spot itself is barren enough, but the sound of the 
mallet, the blasting of the slate rocks, and the pass- 
ing, and re-passing of the loaded carts, upon the in- 
clined railway, gave to the spot, an air of bustle, and 
activity. Mr. Pennant's castle, a very pretty object, 
is near by, the gate- way at the entrance being of stone 
and slate. At Bangor we remained an hour, at an 
apparently good hotel ; taking fresh horses, a drive 
of 8 miles, over the splendid Menai bridge, brought 
us to this place, much resorted to, during the sum- 
mer months, as is our Nahant. The bathing carts, 
like those used at Newport, are ready for the sea 
bathers on the beach. A chain of Welsh mountains, 
seems to bound the sea, forming a complete cres- 
cent over on the opposite shore. To-day, they are 
only partially seen, in consequence of a mist, that 

[ 204 ] 



BEAUMARIS 



is prevailing. Beaumaris is in fact a very sweet spot ; 
the name is Welsh, and implies « a beautiful situation 
close to the sea," as such it really is. The chain sus- 
pension bridge over the Straits of Menai, is a won- 
derful, and beautiful specimen of art ; the Govern- 
ment expended it is said, £120,000 in its erection. 
The form is convex, rising gradually from one end 
to three feet high in the centre, forming a striking 
object, as we approached it from the road. It is suf- 
ficiently high, for ships of three masts to pass under. 
It was begun in 1819, and opened to the public in 
1826. I should think it was about one third of a 
mile in length ; but the chain from fastening to fas- 
tening, is seventeen hundred feet. The whole weight 
of iron in the bridge, is about two thousand tons. 

Thursday, August 15. Beaumaris. Mr. and Mrs. 
Milman are passing a month at this place ; we antici- 
pated the pleasure of meeting them here, as at Miss 
Rogers' party, before leaving London, they told us 
they had rented a cottage, for the purpose of visiting 
Beaumaris. On sending our cards, they came imme- 
diately to see us, and have promised to dine at our 
hotel, the " Bulkley Arms," and we in turn, are to take 
tea with them. Mr. and Mrs. Milan ascended " Snow- 
don," which we did not, being ourselves discouraged 

[ 205 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

from so doing, by several London friends, who de- 
clared that the mists prevailed so constantly, that a 
fine view from its top, was a very rare thing. I must 
not omit to mention an anecdote which Mrs. Milman 
has just related. On remarking to the guide, upon 
the dreariness, and loneliness of the place, he told 
her, that these apparently remote regions were so 
thickly populated by the operatives of the Slate 
quarries, that one single blast of a bugle, from the 
foot of "Snowdon," would in the space of a few 
minutes, bring together twenty-three thousand men. 
Quite in Roderick Dhu style ! Mr. Milman is a poet 
of no mean reputation, and was formerly Professor 
of Poetry, in the University of Oxford, and is now, 
as I have before named, a Canon of Westminster 
Abbey. I learned to-day, at dinner, from his wife, 
that he wrote " Fazio, or the Italian Wife " for Fanny 
Kemble, 1 of whom he is a warm friend, and admirer. 
At 8 o'clock we went to tea at the cottage, returning 
again, at ten, as we are travellers again to-morrow 
morning. We had some difficulty in finding our way 
home in the rain, for the night is dark, and threat- 

1 Frances Anne Kemble, known as " Fanny," 1809-93; daughter 
of Charles. Fazio was published in 1815 (acted in London, 1818), 
when Fanny Kemble was only nine years old ; she first appeared on 
the stage in 1829. 

[ 206 ] 



LIVERPOOL. 



ening, and Snowdon's crest has been all the day- 
shrouded. 

Friday Evening, August 16. Liverpool. We em- 
barked for this place from Beaumaris in a steamer, 
called the "Zephyr," but the breezes were not 
Zephyrs, and we were intolerably seasick, and after 
six hours sail, glad to find ourselves once more on 
shore, and at otir old lodgings at the Adelphi Hotel, 
Liverpool. A band of music on board played " Hail 
Columbia," "Yankee Doodle," and "Jim Crow," 
expressly, we presume, out of compliment to our 
party, especially as we were afterward called upon, 
"for a few shillings for the music." Here are the 
same annoyances on landing, from cab, and hack 
drivers, porters from hotels &c, as in our own coun- 
try. I was much amused this morning, by a dirty 
looking lad, who twice before had been to Mr. Web- 
ster to ask " if he did not want post horses for the 
carriage" (which was on board). Twice Mr. Web- 
ster had replied in the negative, but at this third 
attempt, Mr. Webster's forbearance was exhausted, 
and he said impatiently : " If you don't go away, I 
will throw you overboard." "Thank you, Sir," said 
the boy, touching his hat, and at once retreating. 
Let one find as much fault as he may, an English 

[ 207 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

servant will always " thank you," for that is their 
universal reply. We leave here to-morrow morning, 
to go as far as " Preston," putting our carriage on the 
railroad, as we did on leaving London. We have bid- 
den adieu to Wales, and after visiting Lowther Castle, 
and the Lakes, we hope to see the Land o' Cakes. 

« The Land o' Cakes ! the Land o' Cakes ! 

O ! mouy a blessing on it, 
Its hills and howes — its linns and lakes, 

The bag-pipe and the bonnet ! 
The braes that bred the kilted clans, 

That cowed the Dane and Roman, 
Wbase sons hae still the heart and hans 

To welcome friend or foeman ! 
Then swell the sang — bath loud, and lang, 

As echo answered never, 
And fill ye up, and toast the cup, 

The Land o' Cakes forever ! " 

Saturday Evening, August 17. Bowness, Lake 
Windermere. By the Liverpool papers of this morn- 
ing, we learned the arrival of the British Queen, and 
among the list of passengers is the name of Samuel 
Appleton, Esquire. We are very much puzzled by 
this, and as our letters are forwarded according to 
previous orders, to Penrith, Julia must be kept for 
some days, in a state of vexatious uncertainty, for 
we are unable to decide, whether this is our mutual 

[ 208 ] 



LIVERPOOL TO KENDAL GREEN 



friend Samuel A. Appleton,* or another, bearing a 
similar name, especially as the period of Mr. Apple- 
ton's departure from Boston was not to be, until 
later than this. It is difficult to believe, that Mr. 
Appleton may be in England, and searching for us 
too ; however, although we have talked of little else 
all day, we must content ourselves as well as we can, 
with conjectures, until our arrival at Penrith, where 
I hope we shall be on Monday, at farthest, and then 
for our precious letters, with news from " Home / " 
" Preston " is 38 miles distant from Liverpool, 
and we reached it at half past ten this morning. 
From thence we took post horses for " Lancaster " 
22 miles, passing through " Garstang," and the 
"Beaufort Arms." Our next post was "Burton," 
where we tasted some " Burton Ale," which has al- 
ways been famous. Thence we proceeded to " Ken- 
dal" (Kendal Green), and having arrived there, 
the majority were in favor of coming at once to this 
place, nine miles further. Onward therefore we came, 
but we had not proceeded four miles on our route, 
when one of the horses shied, and broke a trace. 
The difficulty was remedied however by the post- 

1 Samuel Appleton Appleton, 1811-61 ; married, 1839, Julia 
Webster. 

[ 209 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

boy, who used a piece of " cod line," carried always, 
as he said " in case of accidents." The road however 
was a succession of hills, and on coming down a very 
steep one, a little farther on, the shoe, or drag, at- 
tached to the wheel, broke in two, and became use- 
less, obliging us to walk down all the hills for the 
remainder of the way. As the horses wear no breech- 
ings in this part of the country, the poor animals 
had hard work, from the weight of our heavy car- 
riage, to keep themselves from falling, and finally, 
to complete our list of trifling annoyances, the traces 
a second time broke, but they were again secured 
with rope, and, without further accident, we reached 
this place on the Western side of Lake Windermere, 
at 8 o'clock. We have travelled 91 miles to-day, 
but our carriage is so comfortable, and easy, that we 
do not feel half the fatigue we did last night, on our 
steamboat excursion from " Beaumaris." The house 
where we are is prettily situated, on an elevation, 
overlooking the Lake, and we are in the quiet en- 
joyment of a blazing fire, which is far from being- 
uncomfortable. I see by the Liverpool papers just 
sent in, by our host, that "Mr. Webster and Suite, 
arrived at Liverpool in steamboat Zephyr yesterday, 
en route from London." 

[ 210 ] 



WINDERMERE 



Sunday Evening, August 18. Crown Hotel, Win- 
dermere. Julia and I, attended church this morning, 
in the rain, that seems constantly to follow us. We 
heard a very good sermon, in an old County Chapel. 
Over the Altar, were an antique stained glass win- 
dow, and several mural tablets. The rain has pre- 
vented our going out since, and we have passed the 
remainder of the Sabbath, in quietness, and rest, so 
that I have nothing in particular to record, except 
the following epitaph by a Mr. Philopson which I 
read over the altar of the church this morning. 

" The author's epitaph on himself in time of sick- 



ness." 



A mau I was, worm's meat I am, 
To earth returned, from whence I came, 
Many removes on earth I had, 
And now in earth my bed is made ; 
A bed which Christ did not disdain 
Although it could not him retain, 
His deadly foes might plainly see 
Over death and sin, his victory; 
There I must stay 'till he doth let me see 
His promised Jerusalem, and her felicity. 
1640. 

August 19. Queens Arms, Keswick, Derwent- 
water. Mr. Webster and Julia crossed the sweet 
Lake Windermere this morning as far as Amble- 

[ 211 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



side, six miles, in an open boat. In consequence of 
the very damp state of the weather, Mrs. Webster 
and myself, preferred to take the road, and drove 
around the Lake to " Lo Wood," and to the Lake- 
head, where we awaited Mr. Webster's coming. The 
lake itself is ten and a half miles in length, and 
about two in width. The view from this point of the 
lake is very fine. On our drive to Lo Wood we had 
a good view of Mr. Curwen's house on Belle Isle, a 
beautiful spot in the midst of this sheet of water. 
The house is circular ; the grounds tasteful. Mr. 
Webster and Julia rowed around this sweet island. 
" Ambleside " is the well known residence of " Words- 
worth " the poet, and when we saw him at Kenyon's 
breakfast in London, he expressed the hope that, 
" he should see us, on our way to the Lake Coun- 
try." Mr. Webster had also a letter to him from 
Mr. Ticknor. We accordingly drove to " Kydal 
Mount," and great was our disappointment, after 
sending in Holton, with our cards, to learn that 
" Mr. Wordsworth was out, and would not be home 
for an hour, and a half." The servant said that Mrs. 
Wordsworth 1 was however at home, and " would be 

1 Mary Hutchinson, married, 1802, William Wordsworth ; died, 
1859, aged 89. 

[ 212 ] 



THE LAKES 



happy to see us, and show us the grounds." It was 
however again raining, and after a few moments 
hesitation, we decided not to accept Mrs. Words- 
worth's obliging proposal, but to proceed to the resi- 
dence of the other " Lake poet " Southey, 1 although 
from Kenyon's having explained to us, the melan- 
choly state of the Poet's health, and mind, we had 
but little hope of seeing him. In fact we were told 
rather confidentially, that " Southey " was in a state 
threatening insanity, although the fact was kept pri- 
vate. " Derwentwater," his residence, and " Winder- 
mere " are pronounced the two finest lakes in the 
North of England. Both these lakes are in the bosom 
of high mountains, completely encircled by them, 
and when the Lake is unruffled, the effect of their 
shadows, on its surface, is particularly fine. The sur- 
rounding mountains all have their names ; " The 
Old Man of Coniston " we first saw on our left on 
leaving Bowness this morning, and farther, on our 
right was " Langdale Pikes." We passed the little 
lake of " Grasmere " about a mile in length ; at the 
head of it stood " Helm Crag," a lofty pyramidal 
hill on the top of which are some craggy rocks, called 
" the Lion, and the Lamb, and an Old Woman stoop- 
1 Robert Southey, 1774-1843 ; poet and man of letters. 
C 213 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ing down " ; these are said to be distinguishable from 
certain points of the road. The first, I could dis- 
tinctly make out, but my imagination could go no 
farther ; to me, the two last were invisible. Words- 
worth alludes to these objects, in some lines, describ- 
ing the effect of the echo, among these mountains. 
We were watching eagerly for " Helvellyn," 

" I climbed the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn," 

but when it appeared, we were sadly disappointed in 
its height, and general appearance. Its summits were 
then enveloped in clouds, and when seen afterward 
from the middle of Derwentwater, it appeared bolder, 
and finer. Our first view of Keswick " lying in a 
vale " was very beautiful, but the place itself lies 
low, and has little to attract beyond the lake itself. 
After dinner we walked for a quarter of a mile, and 
hiring one of the numerous boats that ply the lake, 
we rowed toward its head. At a distance of two miles 
we landed, on a gentleman's estate, to see a very 
pretty cascade about 70 feet high. As the sun shed 
his parting beams on this tranquil and beautiful 
scene, we rowed back with our boatman "John 
Moore " ; our row was pleasurable, and delightful. 
" Skiddaw " the range, at the bottom of the lake on 

C 214 ] 



GRETA HALL AND KESWICK 

the Northern side, adds much to the grandeur of 
this scenery. " Derwentwater " is three miles in 
length, and a mile, and a half, in breadth, its shape 
is elliptical, whereas Windermere is less pretty, to 
my taste, because it is longer, and more river-like. 
On calling at " Greta Hall " we learned that Southey 
and his wife (formerly " Miss Bowles," 1 to whom 
he was only married two months since), were absent. 
Mr. Webster left his letters, and cards, and pro- 
ceeded to this place. I must mention, before going 
to bed, a new invention. We called for a fire, on our 
arrival here. The inside front of the grate was neatly 
papered, concealing the shavings, wood, and coal ; 
over the whole, was a " grate apron." The servant 
brought in a large, red hot, kitchen poker, and re- 
moving first the " apron " thrust the poker, through 
the white paper, among the other materials, and in 
three minutes, we had a brilliant fire. This is a tri- 
fling idea, but I think it, worth recording. To-mor- 
row we proceed to Penrith, where I hope to find my 
long looked for letters from America. 

August 22. Lowther Castle. My time has been so 
much occupied, and I have been so engrossed, that I 

1 Caroline Anne Bowles, 1786-1854, daughter of Charle8 j mar- 
ried, 1839, Robert Southey. 

[ 215 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

have been unable, until now, to record all the agree- 
able occurrences of the last two days. On reaching 
Penrith on Tuesday we there had the satisfaction of 
receiving our letters, and the happiness to know, of 
the welfare of those who were dear to us. The arrival 
of Mr. Appleton was confirmed, and with him was 
Edward Webster * « en route ' for Geneva, where he 
is to remain probably for a year. Lady Georgiana 
Fane also wrote me a long letter containing all the 
London news, and the sudden death of Mrs. Morris 
Robinson in London. But a few days before our de- 
parture, Mrs. Robinson was in perfect health, and 
formed one of our party to Vauxhall gardens ; how 
truly exemplified is the fact that " in the midst of 
life, we are in death." 

Mr. Appleton, and Edward will remain iu Lon- 
don to await our movements. At Penrith, Mr. Web- 
ster found two notes from Lord Lonsdale, saying 
that he "should soon hope to see us," begging we 
would " remain at the Castle as long as it was con- 
venient," and also adding that " understanding from 
the Innkeeper, that Mr. Webster was expecting the 
arrival of some other members of his family, he 

1 Edward Webster, 1820-48, son of Daniel and Grace (Fletcher) ; 
major in the United States Army. 

[ 216 ] 



LOWTHER CASTLE 



begged he would do him the kindness, to bring them, 
to Lowther." After reading our letters, we took fresh 
horses, and after a drive of four miles, found our- 
selves in sight of this truly beautiful, and hospitable 
edifice, from which I now write (before proceeding, 
I might as well mention here, that Penrith is but 26 
miles from Keswick, and of course a short drive). 
We reached Lowther just at the hour of lunch, con- 
trary to the English etiquette, which usually estab- 
lishes the time for arriving, an hour or two only, 
before dinner, when at the announcement of that 
meal, the guests meet, for the first time. The Castle 
bell was rung, as we passed through the arched stone 
gateway, after a drive through the noble parks. The 
whole structure is modern Gothic, and built by the 
present Earl, in 1809, the former castle having been 
burnt. The entrance hall is strikingly magnificent ; 
four large Gothic pillars, supporting the roof, face 
one immediately on entering, and divide it from the 
main hall. At a distance of about thirty feet from 
the doorway are four figures the size of life, in com- 
plete suits of steel armour; an ascent of five or six 
steps brings one into the main hall, on each side of 
which, are large glass doors, opening into corridors, 
communicating with the various apartments of the 

[ 217 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ground floor. The whole interior of the hall, includ- 
ing the floor, and staircase, is of stone, with Gothic 
arches reaching to the roof. The ceiling of stucco- 
work and gold, is lighted by Gothic stained glass 
windows, through which the mellow light is shed 
below. The sleeping apartments are entered from 
broad galleries, which overlook the hall below, as in 
Mr. S. Appleton's house in Boston. Half way up 
this broad, and grand staircase, are three figures, in 
three separate niches. The centre figure represents 
the costume of Queen Phillippa, the face and figure 
being that of Lady Frederick Bentinck, the widowed 
daughter of Lord Lonsdale, and at the head of his 
establishment. The two other figures are Edward I 
in chain armour, and Edward III. 

On our arrival, we were ushered into a library, a 
spacious room, with a ceiling of oak and gilt, in Gothic 
style, and old family portraits hanging above the 
Gothic bookcases. Lady Frederick immediately ap- 
peared, and mentioning that they were at lunch, 
begged us to follow her across the hall, where were 
Lord Lonsdale, Lord Lowther, 1 the eldest son and 
heir, and a Mr. Hyllier, Lady Caroline Maxse, 2 

1 William Lowther, 2d Earl of Lonsdale, 1787-1872 ; politician. 
3 Caroline FitzHardinge Berkeley ; married, 1829, James Maxse ; 
died, 1886. 

C 218 ] 



AN UNCLAIMED EARLDOM 

and Mr. Maxse 1 at luncheon. Lady Caroline is 
daughter of the late Earl of Berkeley, 2 about 
whose marriage, previous to the birth of his Lord- 
ship's eldest son, there are doubts. The House of 
Lords have refused to acknowledge the legitimacy 
of this son William FitzHardinge Berkeley, 3 stating 
that his claim to the peerage was " not substantiated." 
The second son, 4 born after the legal, or acknow- 
ledged marriage of the parents, refuses to take the 
title, and estates, considering them as the right of 
his elder brother; consequently, the Earldom of 
Berkeley remains unclaimed. This sad state of 
things is deeply felt by the members of this family, 
and particularly by Lady Caroline, who did not 
hesitate afterward, to allude to it, in a very feeling 
manner, to Mr. Webster. After lunching, Lady 
Frederick and Lady Caroline, Mr. Hyllier and Mr. 

1 James Maxse ; died, 1864. 

2 Frederick Augustus Berkeley, 5th Earl of Berkeley, 1745- 
1810; married, 1796, Mary Cole. A previous marriage with the 
same woman, in 1785, was attempted to be proved, but was not ad- 
mitted by the House of Lords. 

8 William FitzHardinge Berkeley, Earl FitzHardinge, 1786- 
1857. 

4 Thomas Moreton FitzHardinge Berkeley, 1796-1882, de jure 
6th Earl of Berkeley, but did not assume the title. He was the 
fifth son of the 5th Earl of Berkeley ; the four elder sons were 
born prior to the marriage admitted by the House of Lords. 

[ 219 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Webster drove to " Hawes Water," a lake belong, 
ing to Lord Lonsdale, some miles distant, and we 
retired to our rooms on the plea of " letters to write," 
&c. The dinner hour is 7 o'clock, at which time the 
groom of the chambers announced, at the door of 
our apartments, that dinner was served, and we de- 
scended to the drawing-room, a large apartment, 
communicating with the dining-room. Here we met 
Lady Stuart de Rothesay l and Miss Stuart de 
Rothesay, 2 and Lord Burghersh, who had that day 
come from London, Miss Thompson, a connection of 
the family, Dr. Jackson, the rector of Lowther 
Chapel, Colonel Lowther, 3 the second son of the 
Earl, and his two sons, lads of 16 or less. Sir 
Thomas 4 and Lady Whichcote 5 were also expected 
at dinner, but owing to a difficulty in obtaining post- 
horses, on their way from " Aswarby " his seat, in 
Lincolnshire, they did not arrive until late in the 

1 Elizabeth Margaret Yorke, daughter of Philip, 3d Earl of 
Hardwicke; married, 1816, Sir Charles Stuart, Baron Stuart de 
Rothsay ; died, 1867, aged 78. 

2 Louisa Stuart de Rothsay ; married, 1842, Henry de la Poer 
Beresford, 3d Marquis of Waterford. (See p. 293.) 

3 Henry Cecil Lowther, 1790-1867. 

4 Sir Thomas Whichcote, 7th Baronet, 1813-92. 

6 Marianne Beckett, daughter of Henry; married, 1839, Sir 
Thomas Whichcote, 7th Baronet ; died, 1849. 

[ 220 ] 



DINNER AT LOWTHER CASTLE 

evening. Lady Whichcote is niece of Sir John * and 
Lady Anne Beckett, and has always lived with them, 
although she is daughter of Mr. Henry Beckett of 
Philadelphia. She is a pretty little bride, of about 
two months; the courtship commenced last year 
while they were both here together, and this is her 
first appearance, among her friends, since her mar- 
riage. They are both young, and interesting. These 
constitute the party at present here. Lord Lonsdale 
handed in Mrs. Webster, and Lord Burghersh my- 
self ; Mr. Maxse on my right, and next but one to 
Lord Lowther, who had one end of the long table. 
As I sat, I was enabled to look through the long 
windows, on one side of the dining-room, into the 
park, where the deer, had become so tame, as to ap- 
proach, even to the closed windows. A large portion 
of the dinner-service was of gold, including forks, 
and spoons. There were three candelabra, the centre 
one, very splendid, supported on a high salver, con- 
taining also a gold vase on each side, and beside 
these, there were six or eight gold (or silver gilt), 
baskets containing rare fruits, ornamenting the table 
through the whole course ; a Russian custom, lately 
introduced, I learn, and on the whole, it seems a 
1 Sir John Beckett, 2d Baronet, 1775-1847- 
[ 221 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

commendable one. The sideboard was covered with 
gold plate, in the centre of which was a very mag- 
nificent piece, called, I believe, the " Shield of Achil- 
les " ; there are two others only like it, one belongs 
to the Crown, and the other I think, to his Grace, 
the Duke of Wellington. Our dinner was delightful. 
The evening was spent in another drawing-room, the 
time occupied in music, conversation, and fancy 
needlework. Lady Frederick, and Miss Thompson, 
sang two fine duetts, and Miss Stuart .sang very 
sweetly "The merry days when we were young," 
and gained much applause from Lord Burghersh, 
from whose new Opera, Lady Frederick played the 
overture. Lady Stuart and Daughter, and Lady 
Caroline, and her Husband, are on their way to Ayr- 
shire to Lord Eglinton's tournament. They all have 
costumes of Henry VII's time ; costumes for the 
tourney, for breakfast, and also for the banquet, and 
ball. They have given us a description of each. As 
we are unprovided with fancy dresses, Mr. Webster 
thinks it is best for us not to attend this long talked 
of tournament, and we are to write refusals to Lord 
Eglinton to-morrow. The breakfast hour is ten 
o'clock, the service principally of gold ; it is served 
around two circular tables, Lord Lonsdale presiding 

[ 222 ] 



AT LOWTHER CASTLE 



at one, and Lady Frederick at the other. All solids 
are on the side-tables, and offered by the servants. 
After breakfast we walked, with Miss Stuart, Lord 
Lonsdale, and Mr. Hyllier to the terrace, three 
quarters of a mile in length, artificially made, with 
closely shaven turf, commanding a most lovely pros- 
pect. We walked over various parts of the grounds, 
all very beautiful, and Lord Lonsdale took us to his 
stables, where we saw twenty or thirty horses, from 
the pony for the phaeton to the powerful bay coach 
horses. We also saw the circular riding house for 
wet weather, and finally, we visited Lord Lonsdale's 
own apartments, contiguous to the Steward's room, 
on the left wing of the ground floor ; one room is 
appropriated to the reception of his various officers 
and people on business. Several of the gentlemen 
went soon after breakfast grouse shooting, and after 
lunching, again at two o'clock, each one separated 
until dinner to fulfil his or her various plans, and 
engagements. Lady Frederick took Mrs. Webster, 
Julia, and myself in a landau and four, accompanied 
by a groom in the saddle, to " Ullswater " another 
of these beautiful Northern lakes. Lord Burghersh 
had proposed accompanying us on horseback, but we 
did not meet until we were returning home. The lake 

[ 223 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



is nine miles in length ; at its head, the scenery is 
very fine, one mountain towers above another, produc- 
ing- a bold and fine effect; the combination of wood, 
water, and the blue sky, makes this scenery almost 
sublime. At 6 o'clock we returned, and met Miss 
Stuart, and Miss Thompson, also returned from a 
drive in the pony phaeton. We had another agree- 
able dinner, occupying the same seats at table as 
before. Lady Frederick again gave us music after- 
ward, and Lord Burghersh, whose voice is weak, al- 
though his musical taste is far from this, sang por- 
tions of his "II Torneo," to me, and afterward 
presented me with a copy of one of the arias " Bel 
raggio di luna," that Grisi had sung at the Apsley 
House concert, in London. This morning we all 
went to see the view from the top of the castle. 
During a very violent storm of last February, Lord 
Lonsdale lost a thousand " set trees," and yet the 
injury is scarcely perceptible to a stranger. Great 
injury was also done to the walls, and to various 
parts of the castle, to the iron fences &c, and some 
trees are still standing that were mutilated by the 
hurricane. The mechanics are still employed in reme- 
dying these effects about the castle, but Lady Fred- 
erick says that it must be many years before, the 

[ 224 ] 



AT LOWTHER CASTLE 



woods and grounds can resume their former looks. 
The greenhouse is a beautiful Gothic building, and 
highly ornamental. At a short distance is a dark 
woody walk, of very ancient yew trees, the path 
through this leads to the terrace ; the deep sombre 
gloom of the former, contrasts agreeably with the 
brightness of the sunny terrace. Wordsworth has 
written some lines upon this walk. Lord Lonsdale 
has repeatedly expressed his regret that on account 
of violent inflammation in the eyes, Wordsworth, to 
his own great disappointment, was deprived the 
pleasure of meeting Mr. Webster here. On our way 
to the Castle top, we were shown two spacious bed- 
rooms. One is furnished with yellow satin, with a 
splendid " Or molu " wardrobe, or " armoire," the 
other room was occupied by Lady Stuart, and was 
fitted up by Lord Lonsdale for George IV, who 
once, when Prince Regent, came on a visit to the 
castle. The bed is of white satin, embroidered in 
antique style in colours, and the toilette-table, cov- 
ered with a superb gold toilette set, a complete para- 
phernalia, even to gold perfume boxes, brushes &c. 
The furniture was much of it of the same " Or 
molu " ; the adjoining dressing-room contained a sweet 
picture of a Magdalen. Lord Lonsdale took us this 

[ 225 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

morning, to a long corridor, adorned with busts, 
mostly by " Nollekens," 1 and to a small room, to 
see an original portrait of " William Penn," which 
he appeared greatly to value. Among the busts, in 
this corridor, was one of " Victoria " at twelve years 
old, strikingly like her present Majesty ; there is a 
duplicate at Windsor ; there were also fine busts of 
the Duke of York, George III, Duke of Wellington, 
William Pitt, and the Father of Lord Chatham. 
Also one of the unfortunate Mr. Perceval, who was 
shot in the House of Commons, a similar shaped 
forehead to my Uncle Judge Story, and the same 
animated, intellectual, amiable expression. Mrs. 
Webster was as much struck as myself with the re- 
semblance. Mr. Webster did not happen to see it, 
not being with us, when we attended Lord Lonsdale 
hither. We also saw two immense bronze knockers 
of great weight, taken from one of the palaces in 
Venice at the time it was pillaged by the French. 
My own bed-room window opens down to the floor, 
upon the portico, or main entrance, which is be- 
neath. These bronze knockers are intended for the 
outside, appertaining door. About the walls, in the 
hall, are the various crests and achievements of 

1 Joseph Nollekens, 1737-1823 ; sculptor. 
[ 226 ] 



AT LOWTHER CASTLE 



the Lowther family of gilt and painted wood, in the 
shape of shields; these are attached to the walls in 
resrular rows, and their coat-of-arms ornaments the 
mantel ; and even the steel and brass grates, so 
beautifully polished, in our bed-rooms, are engraved 
with the same. 

Thursday, August 22, » " Lowther." We have just 
lunched, and as usual, there have been various propo- 
sitions, and parties of pleasure for the remainder 
of the day, until dinner. Mrs. Webster and myself 
have declined a drive to the " Elysian fields," and 
have come up to our rooms, being the only guests 
left within the castle. Julia has gone to drive with 
Lady Caroline, Lady Whichcote, and Miss Thomp- 
son, and Mr. Webster has accompanied Lady Fred- 
erick, Lady and Miss Stuart to " Ullswater " which 
neither guest had seen. We have decided on leav- 
ing here to-morrow, although Lord Lonsdale and 
Lady Frederick express great regret at the shortness 
of our visit, and strongly urge its continuance, but 
we are anxious to reach " Glasgow " where we hope 
to meet Mr. Appleton, and Edward according to 
agreement. The lands surrounding Lowther have 
been, ever since the conquest, in possession of this 

1 The date is repeated. 
[ 227 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

family, through all the "changes, and chances of 
war," and the possessions of the present Earl extend 
in some directions, as far as the eye can reach. Lord 
Lonsdale's great possessions are in coal mines, and 
collieries ; he has also lead, and slate mines. From 
these coal mines, clear of all charges, his income 
amounts to forty or fifty thousand pounds, per an- 
num ! The railways under ground, for the use of the 
mines are from fifty to sixty miles in extent ; and the 
number of horses used, is never less than three hun- 
dred ! I have mentioned that the greater part of the 
original house, standing on the present site, was de- 
stroyed by fire in [blank]. In the hall, are couches, 
covered with embroidery, the coverings of which, 
were the bed furniture of Mary Queen of Scots, 
where she slept, when she once visited the castle of 
the former Earl. At the time of the fire, they were 
saved, together with a few other articles. The em- 
broidery is now cut out of its original material, and 
" transferred " on blue cloth. The oak chairs, elabo- 
rately carved, and covered with valuable embroidery, 
would quite craze with delight, some antiquarians, at 
home ; they are intrinsically handsome, and valuable, 
however. The beautiful hall, and staircase which I 
have but imperfectly described, I learn, is 90 feet 

[ 228 ] 



LAST EVENING AT LOWTHER 

high, and 60 feet square ; 47 stairs are ascended to 
reach the gallery of the second floor, where our bed- 
rooms are. This passage is hung with pictures, and 
one, " a Monk at his devotions," by Salvator Rosa, I 
can never pass, without stopping to gaze at, yet it is 
a very painful, as well as powerful picture. Six of- 
ficers dined here to-day. They are I believe of the 
7th Dragoon Guards. Colonel Lowther was formerly 
a Colonel of this regiment. They are on their way 
to Carlisle, where they are to be stationed on account 
of the recent Chartist disturbances. An officer named 
" Green " sat on my left, and Julia's neighbour was 
a Captain Hunter. Our party at dinner was twenty- 
six. Our last evening at Lowther, like the others, 
has delightfully and rapidly passed, with the usual 
variety of music, conversation, and some of the ladies 
at embroidery. It is a melancholy reflection that we 
may never meet again, the friends who have contrib- 
uted so largely, to our happiness within the last 
three days, and to say "Farewell" to-morrow will 
cost more pangs, than once, I could easily have be- 
lieved. Lady and Miss Stuart de Rothesay depart 
to-morrow for Eglinton, but their route, will vary 
from ours. 

Friday evening, August 23. Lockerbie, Dumfrie- 

[ 229 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

shire, Scotland. At eleven o'clock this morning we 
left " Lowther " with sincere regret on our part, and 
with the expression, of a very great deal, on the part 
of the old Earl, and his amiable family. Before we 
left however, we went below, with Lady Frederick, 
to see the "Offices" connected with this extensive 
establishment. The housekeeper was called to show 
us her parlour ; it was carpeted in Brussels, hung 
with engravings, a centre table, ornamented with 
fresh flowers. The " butler's room " where she, and 
the head servants dine, was a really handsome apart- 
ment, carpeted, curtained in crimson, and a highly 
polished long mahogany dining-table. The under 
servants' dining-room was much plainer ; the deal 
tables, scrupulously white, and clean, with benches 
around them ; this was the servants' hall in fact, and 
consisted of two rows of tables, through a long room. 
The servants belonging to the present guests, amounted 
to twenty. There were four different beer vaults ; one 
of these was appropriated to the high casks of " small 
beer," another to the " ale, during harvest," and the 
other two were fitted with casks for common use. In 
all there were upwards of a hundred tierces. We also 
visited the " Linen-room," the " Store-room," the two 
"kitchens" with their long cooking ranges, and jacks, 

[ 230 ] 



THE OFFICES AT LOWTHER 

the larder for " meat," and another for " game," and 
" poultry." Then there was a Gothic building in the 
shape of a hollow square, quite a large structure, ap- 
propriated to the " Laundry " and to the " Dairy." 
There was also the " housemaid's room" which we vis- 
ited, the two " wine cellars," and the " plate room " ; 
the cupboards were filled with large quantities of 
gold, and silver plate. Among other things, Lady 
Frederick called our attention to some " wine cool- 
ers," made from silver, found among the lead, in her 
father's mines. We finally went to the bake-house, 
and like all other apartments, it was as neat and 
nice, as if it were only "kept for show." Lady 
Frederick here gave orders, that some ginger-bread 
just out of the oven, be sent by the Baker to our 
carriage for luncheon. The Baker, and all the male 
servants in the culinary department, including cook, 
and pastry-cook, wore clean white paper folded caps 
(as do our mechanics often), and the females their 
white frilled caps, and snow white aprons (all Eng- 
lish female servants wear caps). In one of the offices, 
Lady Frederick called to her, a girl, of about twelve 
years, and enquired, " How she liked work," and ex- 
plained this to us, by saying, that her " dear Mother, 
before her death, had established a school, to educate 

[ 231 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the poor children on the estates ; after which, they 
were allowed to come to the Castle, and learn serv- 
ants' work ; where, if they liked, they could remain 
as servants in the family ; this girl was one of the 
number just from Lady Lonsdale's school." Lord 
Lonsdale is 82 years old, he is a little bent with age, 
but his mind is unimpaired, and his teeth remark- 
ably good. He is a knight of the garter, and wore 
the insignia, when dressed for dinner. Lady Lons- 
dale x has been dead eighteen months. The Earl, his 
daughter, and sons, parted from us in the most affec- 
tionate manner. Lord Lonsdale gave Mr. Webster 
a cane made from an ancient yew-tree in his park, 
and also a book containing " the history of James II, 
by the first Earl of Lonsdale." Miss Thompson begged 
the favor of Mr. Webster's " autograph," with which 
she appeared very much pleased, and Lady Fred- 
erick's parting gifts to Mrs. Webster and myself, 
were two distant views of Lowther Castle taken by 
herself, and afterwards engraved. I shall treasure 
them, among my most precious mementos. I have been 
making some enquiries of " Hamilton and Holton " 
our two servants, respecting the domestic arrange- 

1 Augusta Fane, daughter of John, 9th Earl of Westmoreland ; 
married, 1781, William Lowther, 1st Earl of Lonsdale; died, 1838. 

[ 232 ] 



SERVANTS AT LOWTHER 



ments at Lowther, and from them have gathered the 
following, which may afford an idea of the extent of 
an English Earl's country establishment. The Stew- 
ard, " Mr. Horseley " and seven other head servants, 
wear no livery. The former, stands behind his Mas- 
ter's chair, dressed in small clothes, white silk stock- 
ings, buckles, white vest, and cravat, and does no 
waiting, simply overlooking the others. There are 
nine beside, who wear livery, including, the " Por- 
ter," " Lamptrimmer," and "Baker." Of female 
servants, including the housekeeper, and Lady's maids, 
there are seventeen. In the stable department, com- 
prehending coachman, head groom, and others, thir- 
teen. Then there are the gardeners, servants con- 
nected with the farm, also Dairy maids, and 
Laundresses, who are not enumerated ! In Novem- 
ber, Lord Lonsdale goes to " Cottesmore Park in 
Rutland," another of his estates, where he hunts, 
and keeps nine horses, which no one mounts but 
himself, and forty others, for the use of his friends, 
and visitors. We were driving, but moderately, on 
our way to Penrith, when the carriage was abruptly, 
and suddenly stopped ; Holton let down the steps, 
desiring us to alight, stating that " one of the horses 
had broken his leg." It was dangling, entirely use- 

[ 233 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



less. The poor animal on perfectly level ground, had, 
in the most unaccountable manner, thus maimed him- 
self. A man, on the side of the road, was looking at 
the horse, and witnessed the extraordinary fact, of 
the animal, at a gentle trot, having suddenly snapped 
his leg below the knee joint. Leaving the poor beast, 
thus suffering, with our remaining pair we proceeded 
to Penrith, two miles beyond, where our loss was re- 
placed, and our horse left to be shot on the spot. 
The Landlady (who alone is visible at all English 
Inns), lamented in feeling terms, the loss of her 
steed, as horses were trebled in value just at this 
moment, as " all the world were wending their way 
to the Eglinton tournament." On our left, as we en- 
tered this town, we passed an old Tower, formerly 
the abode of the Duke of York, afterward Richard 
III, when sheriff of this county. At a distance from 
this is a Beacon, visible from the Castle at Lowther, 
which in olden times was lighted to give notice when 
the " Scots came over the border." From Penrith 
we drove eighteen miles to Carlisle, and while chang- 
ing horses, the two officers mentioned at dinner yes- 
terday, came to our carriage and remained in con- 
versation, until we left. The Landlady also sent to 
us a dish of fine plums, with her "respects." Mr. 

[ 234 ] 



CARLISLE AND GRETNA GREEN 



Webster had in the meantime discovered a book- 
store, where he was fortunate in finding some books, 
on local subjects, that he had been anxious to pro- 
cure. Carlisle was quite conspicuous during the bor- 
der wars, and has a castle built in the reign of Edward 
III, where it is said Fergus Maclvor l was imprisoned, 
but of course we did not visit it. Ten miles from 
Carlisle is the famous "Gretna Green" where the 
runaway marriages take place. The house itself, a 
clean, decent, but commonplace inn, looks upon a 
broad green, from which I suppose, it derives its 
name. The town is just upon the Scottish border. 
The landlord of " Gretna Hall " himself, performs 
the marriage ceremony, as far as there is any. The 
intended pair, simply state, in reply to his question, 
that they wish to be man and wife, he then fills out 
a printed paper (one of which he gave us), stating 
the names of the parties, that they were married at 
such a date, " according to the laws of Scotland," 
and to this he signs his name, and that of any other 
convenient witness ; and this constitutes a legal mar- 
riage that cannot be gainsayed ! The landlord pro- 

1 Fergus Maclvor, a character in Waverley. See Memoirs of the 
Life of Sir Walter Scott, Bart, by John Gibson Lockhart (House- 
hold Edition), vol. vm, p. 302, for a similar story. 

[ 235 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

duced his book containing copies of all his marriage 
certificates ; it was handsomely bound in red morocco, 
with a brass lock, and key. There were no familiar 
names to us, excepting those of the Prince of Capua, 
and Miss Penelope Smyth, 1 in 1836. The popularity 
of a Gretna marriage is now fast passing away, and 
when they do occur, it is generally among people of 
much lower grade, than the names I have just writ- 
ten. The river " Sark," is the dividing line between 
England and Scotland. We travelled fourteen miles 
farther this evening, arriving in the midst of a pro- 
fuse rain, at this place, where we are, until to-mor- 
row morning. " Lockerbie " offers very little, how- 
ever, that is attractive to a stranger. 

1 Penelope Smyth, 1815-82, daughter of Grice Blakeuey ; mar- 
ried Charles Ferdinand Bourhon, Prince of Capua. 



^Fourncp tfjrougf) £cotlanti 

SATURDAY, August 24. Lanark, Lanarkshire. 
Leaving Lockerbie at 7 o'clock this morning we 
drove to Beattock bridge, a distance of fourteen miles, 
to breakfast. The road was good, but with uninterest- 
ing scenery composed of barren hills, and moors, the 
rain continuing to pour most merrily. Crawford our 
next post was 16 miles, and fifteen more brought us 
to this place just at noon, with a promise of sunshine, 
and fairer weather. Mr. Lockhart resides six miles 
from this place, and according to the promise made 
in London, we have apprised him, through a mes- 
senger, of our arrival at Lanark. In consequence of 
the rain, we were prevented seeing the " Falls of 
the Clyde," on our last post to this place, and we 
shall therefore postpone this pleasure, until Monday 
morning. 

Sunday, August 25. Melton Lockhart. As we 
were dining yesterday at Lanark, shortly after de- 
spatching our messenger, Mr. Lockhart appeared. 
He insisted on our going at once to his Brother's 

[ 237 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

house, with whom he resides, six miles from where 
we were, and hoped we would consider our dinner a 
mere lunch, and would do himself and Brother the 
favor of dining with them at 7 o'clock at " Melton 
Lockhart." He urged this in the strongest manner, 
declared our " rooms were all in readiness," and in 
short, extracted a promise before he left, that we 
would immediately follow him to his Brother's house. 
So cordial and tempting a proposal, we could no 
longer refuse, although we had not thought of pay- 
ing this visit until to-morrow at soonest ; we were, 
therefore, in the course of an hour, driving along the 
banks of the Clyde, toward our destination. We 
were detained for twenty minutes, by again, break- 
ing our trace, but a new one was procured and we 
arrived in good season, without further accident. 
We had a charming dinner, in excellent taste, with 
jellies, and a dessert of fine fruit. Mr. Lockhart's 
dining-room is a lofty, beautiful apartment panelled 
with oak; above, and around, is a gallery ; the front, 
of very beautiful oak carving, in which are bookcases, 
and books. This tasteful gallery communicates by 
two doors above, with Mr. L's private apartments. 
The Brother, and owner of this establishment is Wil- 
liam Lockhart, a bachelor; his name, was the one 

[ 238 ] 



MELTON LOCKHART 



we read at Shakspeare's birthplace, above that of 
Scott; he told us, that the author of "Waverly" 
had placed his name there unknown to him at the 
time, although he accompanied him on the visit to 
Avon. Some friend discovered, and told him of it, 
some days afterward. The house is at present under- 
going repairs, and improvements, but it is quite a 
handsome building, with the family crest, " a heart 
with a padlock," introduced into all the ornamental 
part. The stucco work of the hall is now being 
gilded, and the ceiling of a large and new drawing- 
room. The son, and daughter of Mr. John G. Lock- 
hart, and the grandchildren of Scott, are absent on 
a visit to some friends in Scotland ; we therefore lost 
the pleasure of seeing them. Nothing can exceed the 
courtesy, and hospitality of these two gentlemen. 
We have spent a portion of the day in visiting the 
celebrated " Falls of the Clyde," they consist of three 
separate ones, one of which is a complete " Niagara " 
in miniature. They also bear some resemblance to 
" Trenton." They are on the estate of Lady Mary 
Ross. A pretty summer-house, stands on a hill, above 
one of the falls ; in this building are some mirrors so 
contrived, that on seating oneself in a certain cor- 
ner, a beautiful panorama of the falls is reflected 

[ 239 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

with great distinctness, and beauty. Mr. Lockhart 
conducted us to all the fine points, and through every 
interesting spot ; in accomplishing this, we walked 
many miles, and on reaching Melton again, were 
much fatigued. According to an ancient Scotch cus- 
tom, we were offered " Mountain dew " from out of 
a " quaigh " or drinking cup, a triangular vessel of 
wood lined with silver, holding about a half a wine- 
glass, when full. But one was placed on the table, 
out of which, each was expected to drink, taking the 
two sides, one in each hand, and thus raising it to 
the lips. This ceremony we merrily performed, and 
touched the " quaigh " to our lips. Mr. William 
Lockhart, is intelligent, and unpretending ; his bro- 
ther, handsome, " wise, and witty," devoted in his 
kind attentions, and they both evince the strongest 
desire, to make us happy, and at home. 

August 26. Glasgow. We left "Melton Lock- 
hart " this morning, after a visit of two delightful 
days. We stopped at Hamilton, a distance of eight 
miles, to visit the palace of the " Duke of Hamil- 
ton." Approaching through the parks, the house re- 
minds me in style of the President's at Washington, 
although this palace, is three times as large. At pres- 
ent it is undergoing repairs, and improvements. It 

[ 240 ] 



THE GALLERY AT HAMILTON 

abounds in exquisite, and valuable vases, and marble 
tables, of " malachite " which are really more precious 
than gold. The malachite is a brilliant green marble, 
beautifully veined, of which, but small pieces, are 
said to be, now obtainable, and those, at high prices. 
Here was a whole slab ! Some of these tables, are 
said to be estimated at .£40 00. The picture gallery 
is 120 feet long, and 20 feet high, the walls of dark, 
carved, antique oak ; the ceiling is of gilt, and stucco 
work, in very gorgeous style, but has a cumbrous, 
top-heavy effect, like the otherwise, splendid corridor, 
at Windsor Castle. This gallery contains a cele- 
brated picture of Rubens, "Daniel in the Lions' 
den," " Moses striking the rock," by Tintoretto, the 
" Burial of our Saviour " by Poussin, and " Ecce 
homo " by Correggio, and a portrait of Lord Den- 
bigh by Van Dyck ; these all attracted my attention. 
I also remember a " Stag hunt " by Snyders, and a 
"Laughing boy," by Leonardo da Vinci, as very 
striking paintings. The " Tribune," a room yet un- 
finished, promises to be very beautiful ; it has a gal- 
lery around it, made of stone, and is a very large 
apartment. At the head of the picture gallery is the 
present Duke's ambassadorial throne, brought from 
St. Petersburg. I was much struck with a beautiful 

[ 241 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

cabinet, of mosaic, and precious stones ; it must have 
cost an immense sum. The Gobelin was here, as fresh 
and beautiful, as at Blenheim, or Windsor. The li- 
brary was also a fine room, and so was the dining- 
room, which was 71 feet by 30, and a "State bed- 
room," containing a bed, in which Mary Queen of 
Scots had once slept. In another room, was a carved 
ebony cradle, that had rocked to sleep the infant 
Queen Elizabeth, and had been used in her royal 
nursery. The ceilings of the Duchess' own rooms 
were very beautifully, and emblematically gilded, and 
the walls, richly tapestried in blue. The recesses of 
the deep-set windows, in the adjoining room, were 
filled with low bookcases and books, an invention 
that much pleased me. In the new part, the artists 
were putting in, the mosaic marble floor, of an en- 
trance hall, and gilding, and frescoing the ceilings, 
and walls ; some of it in too " prononce " style to be 
generally approved. This is called a palace because 
it is built on the site of another palace belonging to 
royalty. 

The Marquis of Douglas, the son, and heir of this 
splendid palace and estates, I have previously named. 
"Dame Rumour " has already made him the husband 
elect, of her Majesty, but since the propagation of 

[ 242 ] 



GLASGOW 



this report, the Queen has not been disposed, as for- 
merly, to give him her hand, in the dance ; nothing 
has recently transpired, to confirm, in any way, this 
report. 

Lord Douglas, I have heard called, " the hand- 
somest man in England." The Duke, 1 his Father, 
married a daughter of Mr. Beckford 2 of Fonthill 
Abbey, Wiltshire. We left Hamilton at two o'clock, 
and arrived, in the midst of a pouring rain, at Glas- 
gow ; immediately on our arrival, we had the satis- 
faction, and pleasure of meeting Mr. Appleton and 
Edward Webster, who came to us by appointment. 
Here we are to pass the night, and I must leave 
4 journalizing,' for the present, for the more agreeable 
occupation of preparing letters to go to America, 
by the British Queen, that sails on the 1st of Sep- 
tember. 

Mr. Webster has just shown me the following, 
given to him by Lord Lonsdale while at Lowther ; 
it is written from memory, by the Earl himself. He 
related to Mr. Webster, that when he was a student 
at the University of Cambridge, he happened to see, 

1 Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton, 1767-1852. 

2 Susan Euphemia Beckford, daughter of William; married, 
1810, Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton. 



[ 243 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

on some window, in, or near the town of Cambridge, 
the following lines scratched on a pane of glass: 

" Hail happy England, freedom's best retreat 
Great is thy wealth, thy power, thy glory, great ; 
But wealth and power have no immortal day, 
And only all things hasten to decay. 
But when that Time shall come, the lot of all, 
When England's glory, wealth, and power shall fall, 
In other worlds another Briton see, 
And what thou art, America shall be! " 

As the Earl of Lonsdale is now in his 82d year, 
it is doubtless more than sixty years since he saw 
these lines. He told Mr. Webster that the prophecy 
made so great an impression upon him, that through 
the long lapse of years, he never forgot the words. 

Glasgow is a place of considerable importance, 
and second only to London in size and population. 
We are so near the scene of the approaching tourna- 
ment, and hear so much at this place of Lord Eglin- 
ton's splendid preparations, that we are half tempted, 
notwithstanding our previous determination, to change 
our minds, and witness the pageant, without attend- 
ing the banquet, and ball, for which two last we are 
unprovided with fancy dresses. 

August 27. Turf Inn, Kilmarnock, Ayrshire. 
This place is 17 miles from Glasgow and nine miles 

[ 244 ] 



KILMARNOCK 



from Eglinton; the town of "Ayr" is but three 
miles, distant ; it is interesting from being connected 
with the name of Burns ; the poet is said to have been 
born about a mile, and a half from the town. This 
is the scene of " Tarn o' Shanter," and the ruins of 
"Alloway Kirk" and the " Auld Brig" are both 
still in existence, but the latter is deserted, and the 
former, a roofless ruin. It is said that the house 
where the poet first saw light, is now a public house, 
but the room, where he was born, is still shown to 
travellers. About four miles in another direction, 
from Kilmarnock, and a half a mile, from the village 
of "Galston" is Loudoun Castle, the seat of the 
Marchioness of Hastings, and the burial place of 
poor Lady Flora. All the inns, on the way to this 
place were crowded with vehicles, waiting for post- 
horses to bring them to the vicinity of Eglinton. We 
learn that every Inn, lodging house, &c, is secured 
at immensely high prices, and all things are in a state 
of tumult, and excitement, in consequence of the an- 
ticipated scenes, of the next three days. We have, 
contrary to our expectations, comfortable apartments 
here, and in the meantime, we await the return of 
"Holton," who has gone to Eglinton Castle, with a 
note, to the Stepfather (Sir Charles Lamb), to learn 

[ 245 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the order of the day, for to-morrow, and to ask if, 
notwithstanding our previous refusal, it will be allow- 
able for us to appear in the " grand stand " without 
fancy dresses, to-morrow, as we have been urged by 
others to do. We have therefore, thought it might 
be admissible to appear as spectators, relinquishing 
at once, all idea of the subsequent banquet and ball. 

Evening, 8 o'clock. Hoi ton has just returned with 
a most kind and obliging reply from Sir Charles, 
urging Mr. Webster in the strongest manner, to re- 
main ; assuring him that, as " strangers," we shall 
be admitted in " any dresses we have chosen to wear," 
and that he hopes " to persuade us all to remain to 
the Banquet and Ball, and will have the pleasure of 
providing rooms, where we may change our dresses 
for the purpose." After this, we no longer hesitate, 
and to-morrow morning we shall hope to be among 
the multitude, and partaking the pleasure and ex- 
citement of this long talked of tournament. Holton 
represents the excitement about Eglinton as intense, 
and the preparations for the tournament, &c, on the 
most splendid, and extensive scale. 

August 29. Glasgow. We left Kilmarnock at 11 
o'clock yesterday morning, and passing through the 
village of " Irvine," were soon driving through the 

[ 246 ] 



ARRIVAL AT EGLINTON 



beautiful parks of Eglinton, and in view of the cas- 
tle itself. The lawn presented a most gay scene. 1 
Vehicles of all descriptions with their richly dressed 
inmates were driving about, and the numberless tents 
of the various Archer clubs covered the lawn in all 
directions; they were variously and emblematically 
ornamented, and the lady archers themselves, dressed 
in Lincoln green, with long feathers in their caps, 
and their bows in hand, were promenading, appear- 
ing and disappearing, beneath their showy pavilions, 
adding greatly, to the brilliancy of the whole scene. 
Our object in driving first, to the castle, was to ful- 
fil the particular request of Sir Charles, by sending 
to him our card of invitation, that the names of Mr. 
Appleton and Edward, might be added, in order to 
prevent all difficulties of admission, at the tilting 
ground. While we were waiting, Mr. Richard Milnes 
appeared in a Highland costume, and Mr. Willis 
also accosted us, and Mr. Gibson, our Scotch friend, 
and fellow passenger. Through him, we discovered 
that our ticket was a particularly flattering one, those 
generally issued, being for the " Tournament," or 
" Tournament and Ball " and few for the " Banquet " 

1 See Endymion, by Disraeli, chapters lix and lx. There is an 
account of this tournament by John Richardson. 

[ 247 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

also. A mile distant from the castle, was the spot 
designated ; there we took our places in the grand 
stand, or gallery, which was in Gothic style, hand- 
somely gilt ; in the centre was the throne for the 
" Queen of Love and Beauty," curtained in blue, 
and gold. This stand, was intended to hold 800 
spectators. It was quite filled. On each side were 
those of smaller dimensions, without any covering 
or ornament, where persons were admitted gratis, 
through tickets. These two stands are said to have 
contained 1600 people, and the whole number of 
spectators is estimated at 10,000. The seats on which 
we sat, were covered with red, and protected behind 
with ancient tapestry. The tilting ground, or " List " 
comprised a space of about 650 feet in length, and 
250 in breadth. On each side of this arena, were 
the tents for the different Knights, and their Es- 
quires, each tent being designated by stripes of dif- 
ferent colours from the others. The barrier, across 
which the Knights were to encounter, was in the 
centre of this space ; it was said to have been 110 
yards in length, and about 4 feet in height. The 
morning was unpromising when we left Kilmarnock, 
and it " sprinkled " even while we were in front of the 
Castle, but it ceased, soon after, although the aspect 

[ 248 ] 



THE EGLINTON TOURNAMENT 

of the Heavens continued threatening, until just as 
the procession was about leaving the Castle. At that 
critical moment, all doubts were dissolved, in a vio- 
lent shower of rain. In the hope of a cessation, the 
departure of the procession was postponed, for about 
30 minutes, when seeing no prospect of a change, it 
was decided that the procession must proceed ; the 
immense number of houseless spectators, from long 
distances, making a postponement to the following 
day, impracticable. With the exception of the la- 
dies, and the pages, this gorgeous and beautiful page- 
ant, disregarding the copious, and uninterrupted rain, 
proceeded onward, along the paths selected, a mile 
in extent, and designated by previous arrangement, 
and announcement. Spectators, completely lined the 
whole way ; a large portion of them were in the 
Highland costume, and the remainder sporting at 
least, a sprig of heather ; they had been already 
standing for hours, to catch a glimpse of the passing 
pageant. Several of the Knights, being Scotch noble- 
men, were followed by their retainers, in the par- 
ticular costume of their clan. The "tail" of Lord 
Glenlyon * amounted to 40 or 50 men, and that of the 

1 George Augustus Frederick John Murray, 2d Lord Glenlyon, 
1814-64 ; succeeded his uncle as 6th Duke of Atholl, 1846. 

[ 249 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Duke of Montrose l comprised as great a number, 
marching, in their " kilts, and plaids," to the sound 
of the " pibroch " or " screeching bag-pipe." The 
musicians of the 78th Highlanders, were all dressed 
by Lord Eglinton, in plaids, and bonnets, and were 
stationed directly in front, below the throne of the 
" Queen of Beauty." Uniforms, and Highland cos- 
tumes prevailed among the gentlemen universally, 
and the largest portion by far, of the ladies, in the 
stand (where we were), wore costly, and splendid 
fancy costumes, adhering closely to those worn in 
the 15th century, in far more becoming taste, than 
the costume of the present age. The Duchess of 
Montrose, 2 a very lovely woman, was very superbly 
dressed, with a cap of golden net, and precious stones 
fitting tight to the head, the hair parted behind, and 
the whole brought in front, making two heavy braids 
around the face, the style often seen in pictures, but 
faithfully, and becomingly imitated. Lady Seymour, 
the " Queen," wore a similar headdress, with a long 
crimson velvet train, trimmed with ermine, the under 
dress of blue velvet richly embroidered up the front 

1 James Graham, 4th Duke of Montrose, 1799-1S74 ; statesman. 

2 Caroline Agnes Horsley-Beresford, daughter of the Reverend 
John, 3d Baron Decies ; married, 1836, James Graham, 4th Duke 
of Montrose. 

[ 250 ] 



THE EGLINTON TOURNAMENT 



in gold. I shall not attempt a description of the 
pageant itself, but I have preserved a book, which 
was sold about the premises, containing the order of 
procession, name of each Knight, his colours, dress, 
and the names and costumes of the Esquires. Like- 
wise those of the Archers, who contributed their 
part, toward the splendor of the scene. Lady Sey- 
mour, with the ladies of her court, the four pages 
(who were exquisitely dressed, and were sons of 
noblemen of rank), were all driven down in closed 
chariots to the stand, while the beautiful white pal- 
frey, intended for the Queen of Beauty, was led 
along, by two grooms, the rain, soon annihilating 
the stately ostrich feathers that were waving on his 
head, and tarnishing, and disfiguring the splendid 
caparisons, that had cost so much labour and expense 
to prepare for the occasion, and the blue velvet cloth 
which covered the animal, soon by the wet, and rain, 
became so heavy, that its golden tassels trailed on 
the ground ! All this was very sad to see, and yet 
with this great impediment of the weather, the scene 
was novel, and brilliant. The Earl of Eglinton, as 
" Lord of the Tournament " was greeted on his ap- 
pearance with enthusiastic shouts. He wore a mag- 
nificent armour of burnished gold, the cost of which 

[ 251 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

is said to have been 10,000 dollars ; his horse was 
also splendidly caparisoned, and partially protected 
by armour of the same material, which was first made 
of steel, and then richly, and brilliantly gilded. 
When armed for the encounter, he made a most 
conspicuous appearance, and throughout the whole 
day, he won our respect and admiration, for the 
grace, and composure, with which he met, all the 
vexations, and trials of the time. His stepfather, Sir 
Charles Lamb, was the " Knight of the White Eose" 
which emblem, was emblazoned about his person, 
and cap ; his dress was quite a contrast to Lord 
Eglinton's, although perhaps as beautiful. The dress 
itself was blue velvet embroidered in gold. The reins, 
and saddle-cloth of blue, with the coat-of-arms, and 
crest, richly embroidered upon it. Lady Montgom- 
erie, 1 the Mother of Lord Eglinton, and wife to 
Sir Charles Lamb, was driven to the stand with the 
Marchioness of Londonderry (whose diamonds, I 
have described, previously, at a London ball). In 
their train came also, the Countess of Hopetoun, 2 

1 Mary Montgomerie, daughter of Archibald, 11th Earl of Eglinton, 
and widow of Archibald Montgomerie, Lord Montgomerie; married, 
secondly, 1815, Sir Charles Montolieu Lamb, 2d Baronet ; died, 1848. 

2 Louisa Macdonald, 1802-54, daughter of Godfrey, 3d Baron 
Macdonald ; married, 1820, John Hope, 5th Earl of Hopetoun. 

[ 252 ] 



THE EGLINTON TOURNAMENT 

and her sister Miss Macdonald, said to be the " hand- 
somest woman in Scotland," and also Lord Eglin- 
ton's sister ; all these ladies were gorgeously, and 
magnificently attired, in the same style of costume, 
as that, worn at the last " tourney," in England ; 
their dresses were trimmed with sables, and ermines, 
and on their heads, were gold coronets, and precious 
stones, and velvet caps embroidered very richly, in 
gold, or silver, or precious stones. The rain however, 
continued without abatement, and it was not long 
before the feathers, and rich equipments of the 
Knights, their Esquires, and pursuivants, showed 
but too plainly, that their beauty was truly but 
evanescent, and fast disappearing. All hearts were 
filled with sadness and sorrow, for the actors had 
hardly appeared, and were partially seen, before the 
rain despoiled them of one half their beauty. The 
injury however, was not confined to them alone, for 
the spectators, more particularly those in the open 
stands, and on the grounds (richly dressed, and un- 
prepared for this reverse in the weather), were thor- 
oughly drenched and bedraggled. Indeed, the whole 
population, suffered more or less from the violence 
of the rain. For myself, I was placed directly behind 
a Highlander, desperately in love, apparently, with 

[ 253 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



a pretty girl by his side, and by whom he was en- 
tirely engrossed. The searching rain had found its 
way, in certain places, through the slight roof above, 
and happened to pour itself into the saucer top of 
his concave hat, leaving large drops, upon the points 
of the numerous black feathers, that ornamented its 
top, and side. To his 4 ladye love's ' often repeated, 
and anxious inquiries, as to the "prospect of a change 
of weather," he would as often, put back his head to 
raise his eyes to the Heavens, and the result was, 
that the whole contents, of the top, of the Highland 
cap, was liberally poured into my face, and down 
my neck, while his reply, was always, with a shake 
of the head, that sent also, every drop from his feath- 
ered plumes, additional : " I can't tell, but at pres- 
ent, it looks 4 vry ' unsatisfactory." To me, this oft 
repeated manoeuvre, was particularly "unsatisfac- 
tory " as one may readily imagine, and although his 
Scotch accent, and entire unconsciousness of the 
" damp stranger " so near him, made me but laugh, 
yet the effects upon my toilette were vastly more 
enduring. But the greatest disappointment of all, 
is yet to be related. Adjoining the castle, covered 
with blue and white stripes, were two splendid 
pavilions, erected under one roof for the Banquet, 

[ 254 ] 



THE EGLINTON TOURNAMENT 



and Ball-rooms. Both were to be lighted with im- 
mense candelabra, chandeliers, and wax lights. A 
saloon in the centre led, through a beautiful stair- 
case, lined with evergreens, and coloured lamps, to 
the castle itself ; this was also adorned with the ban- 
ners of the various Knights, &c. But all this prep- 
aration was in vain, at least, for that day. After a 
great deal of tilting, from all the Knights, and dis- 
plays of splendid horsemanship, Lord Eglinton ap- 
proached from the lists, to the front of the Grand 
Stand, and in a most graceful, and appropriate man- 
ner, announced, the dire intelligence, " that the un- 
expected and unwelcome rain, had inundated so 
completely, both the Banqueting and Ball-rooms, 
that in spite of the very best intentions, of giving 
his friends a good dinner, the violent storm, had 
frustrated all his plans " ! He also announced, that 
there " would be no tilting the next day, should the 
weather prove as intolerable as now." The " Lord of 
the Tournament " afterward came into the gallery, 
and was introduced to Mr. Webster and party, and 
after expressing his regret at the misfortunes of the 
day, he said that " a few guests would dine with him 
in the castle, and that he should feel much gratified 
if we would all, join them." This hospitable invita- 

[ 255 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

tion Mr. Webster thought, with us, it was best to 
refuse, on account of our not having fancy dresses, 
or indeed any others, than the ones we wore. Added 
to these reasons, our drive for a bed at night, was 
one of nine miles, to Kilmarnock. Lord Eglinton 
also remarked that " he blamed himself severely, for 
not having guarded against the contingency of rain, 
by having the pavilions water-proof." I have since 
learned, that " Pratt " the mechanic, who superin- 
tended the arrangements for this whole affair, sud- 
denly vanished from Eglinton, fearing the weight of 
Lord Eglinton's displeasure, at his want of attention, 
in not securing him against, so unhappy an accident. 
Our enjoyments for the day, were greatly damped ; 
sorrow, and sympathy for Lord Eglinton, and his 
friends predominating. One who witnessed the scene, 
at the castle, told me, that Lady Montgomerie di- 
rectly on entering the house, after the close of this 
unpropitious day, threw herself into a seat, and burst 
into a passionate fit of weeping, not "for her own 
disappointment, but that her beloved son, should, 
after all the labours, and anticipations of so many 
months, be the victim of such mortifications, and 
distressing reverses." 

It proved fortunate for us, that we did not delay 

[ 256 ] 



A CROWDED INN 



any longer, our departure from Eglinton, for our 
stupid post-boys, lost their way, and carried us ten 
miles out of the direct road, delaying us more than 
an hour, beyond the proper time. A good dinner 
(previously ordered on our departure in the morning), 
to which we did ample justice, made amends for our 
fatigue, and while at our dessert, Mr. Richard Milnes 
was announced, accompanied by a friend, who had re- 
cently paid a visit to America. Like ourselves, Mr. 
Milnes being disappointed of his seat at the banquet, 
had returned to Kilmarnock, cold, wet, and hungry. 
August 30. Ardcheanochrochan, 1 head of Loch 
Katrine. After a most fatiguing day, we at last reached 
this place, and find its only Inn, entirely crowded, 
but one bed-room eight feet square, for our whole 
party ! This is one effect of the Tournament, which 
has driven all the world to one spot. We are quite 
in despair, for at present, there is no alternative but 
the parlour carpet, which is already occupied by an 
apparently newly married pair, who looked at first, a 
little surprised at our intrusion, but have since shown 
us many civilities. We sailed down the river Clyde 
this morning, in an iron steamboat, having left Glas- 

1 Ardcheanochrochan is at the outlet of Loch Katrine, not at the 
head of the lake. 



[ 257 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

gow at 7 o'clock, and breakfasted at Dumbarton, where 
we had a good view of its castle ; it is situated on a 
high, forked rock, rising out of a plain, where a river 
joins the lake ; 560 feet high, it is a mile in cir- 
cumference, and has houses upon it, batteries, and a 
garrison. The fort is still kept up, in consequence of a 
stipulation, at the time of the Union of Scotland with 
England, that this fort should be one of the four, 
that were to continue in repair. These four forts 
being, " Edinburgh, Stirling, Blackness, and Dum- 
barton," formerly " Dunbreatan," signifying, the 
"^Castle of the Britons." In this last named Castle, 
William Wallace was once confined, and a room 
is still shown, called " Wallace's tower." The road 
through the village of Dumbarton, where lived the 
" Bonnie belle " along the banks of the river " Leven " 
was extremely pretty, and in the town of Renton, we 
noticed a monument to the memory of " Smollett " 
who was born in this neighborhood. A drive of five 
miles more, and we alighted by the side of Loch 
Lomond, the largest sheet of water in Britain, and 
certainly the most beautiful ; it is 23 miles in length, 
and at the southern extremity, five miles in width. 
It is studded with numerous pretty islands, and its 

shores are covered with woods. The first island we 

[ 358 ] 



LOCH LOMOND 



passed, on our left, belongs to the Duke of Montrose, 
who owns a vast portion of the circumjacent country. 
It is called " Inchmurrin," and is now principally 
used by the Duke, for the keeping of deer. Rob 
Roy's rock, and cave were here pointed out, as among 
the objects of interest. During the greater part of 
the sail, the rain was pouring fast, but we had occa- 
sional glimpses of sunshine, enlivening the scenery 
of this sweet lake. We had the pleasure of meeting 
on board the boat, Sir William Newton the artist, 
and his daughter. They are on a tour through the 
Lakes, as far as « Blair Atholl." We landed at " In- 
versnaid " and entered a small, but clean, and humble 
cottage on the shore of the Lake. Near the cottage 
door, was a pretty cascade, falling into the Lake. 
Here we were detained for nearly three hours, await- 
ing the return of the ponies, to carry our party, 
through the valley, to Loch Katrine. We had for- 
tunately taken the precaution of sending the greater 
part of our luggage by the travelling carriage to Ed- 
inburgh, therefore one little donkey was able to bear 
the remainder. We had a merry ride of it, 

" O'er the muir amang the heather," 

but our ponies were obstinate, and weary, and the 

[ 259 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

gentlemen for want of a better conveyance, were 
obliged to walk. We were not therefore sorry, when 
our five miles were accomplished, and the clear waters 
of Loch Katrine first met our sight. The whole pas- 
sage across was, 

" Empurpled with the heather's dye," 

the mountains were barren of everything else, save a 
few low shrubs. How naturally and beautifully does 
Scott say for Rob Roy when urged to flee : " But the 
heather that I have trod upon when living shall bloom 
over me when dead, my heart would sink, and my arm 
would shrink, were I to lose sight of my native hills, 
and the rocks, and cairns that you see around me." 
Over Loch Katrine we were rowed by four stout 
Highlanders, who pointed out a solitary house on 
the North shore, where Rob Roy was born. " Ben 
Venue " and " Ben An " rose high in the air, among 
a cluster of other mountains, their dark shadows finely 
reflected in the lake below. A singular rock, called 
a " Stag's head " from its resemblance to one, was a 
prominent object on the shore ; the antlers were very 
perfectly represented by two trees, one a birch, the 
other an oak. Their roots were attached to the rock, 
and they were growing by the nutriment, apparently, 

[ 260 ] 



LOCH KATRINE 



of the air alone, without any soil to feed upon. At the 
eastern extremity of the lake, was " Ellen's island," 
for the sight of which we were eagerly watching. 
The lodge built precisely, it is said, in accordance with 
Scott's description, by Lady Willoughby de Eresby l 
(whose husband owns the island, and much contigu- 
ous country), was accidentally burned doivn, by a 
picnic party, who were smoking in the bower/ The 
" silver strand " probably derives its name from the 
whiteness of the sands of the beach. " On the top of 
Ben Venue," said the spokesman, among the oars- 
men, " just on that spot, on the left, is a cave, where 
Douo-las concealed his Daughter from Roderick Dhu. 
On that rock, FitzJames stood, and wound his bugle." 
To him, the " Lady of the Lake " was all reality, and 
with the poem in one's mind, and the scene before 
one's eyes, this state of feeling became infectious. 

" So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
The scenery of a Fairy's dream." 

Twilight was rapidly approaching, as we stepped 
from our boat, but the sight of the " Trossachs " made 
us forget all previous fatigue, and wild with delight, 

1 Clementina Sarah Drummond, daughter of James, 1st Lord 
Perth ; married, 1807, Peter Robert Drummond-Burrell, 19th Baron 
Willoughby de Eresby. 

[ 261 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

at the beauty of the glen, and the bold pass, along 
the mountain, we proceeded on foot for a mile and a 
half, to this crowded inn, with the long Gaelic name, 
which I have written above (Ardcheanochrochan). 
By dint of bribes, and entreaties, Julia, and myself, 
are to be accommodated, with one single bed, in a 
miserable shed of an outhouse, used as a laundry- 
room, with no floor but the bare ground, and a bed 
in the same cheerless place for our maid. Mr. and 
Mrs. Webster are to have the bedroom, and the two 
other gentlemen, the parlour carpet ! 

August 31. Stewart's Inn, Ardcheanochrochan. 
We are in iull view of " Loch Achray," but the 
incessant rain prevents our seeing the beauties of 
the spot. I no longer wonder at the question of the 
stranger to the Scotch woman; "Pray," said he, 
" does it ahvays rain in these parts ? " " Nae," said 
the simple woman, "it sometimes snaws/" Our ac- 
commodations are so wretched that we are anxious 
to proceed, and in accordance with this determination, 
Mr. and Mrs. Webster and Edward have already 
left here, in the only post-chaise, that could be had, 
in the shape of a vehicle, and are to send it back 
with fresh horses, for the rest of our party, from 

« Callander." 

[ 262 ] 



STIRLING 



Sunday, September 1. Stirling. At one o'clock, on 
the return of the post-chaise, we left for Callander, 
in a most violent rain storm. We crossed the " Brig 
o' Turk," and drove along the river Teith, passing 
Lanrick mead, and Lake Vennachar, and over the 
ford where Roderick Dhu is supposed to have led 
FitzJaraes, previous to their contest ; we reached Cal- 
lander ten miles distant, where a good dinner, and 
comfortable apartments awaited us. In the after- 
noon, we proceeded to this place, passing near Doune 
castle, and over the bridge on the river Forth, having 
a good view of Stirling castle on our right, as we en- 
tered the town. It is said to be Edinburgh castle in 
miniature, and like Dumbarton, it is elevated high 
above the village, which it completely overlooks, as 
well as the surrounding country. It is of very re- 
mote antiquity, and from its esplanade, the view is 
superb. " Dunblane " where dwelt the " fair Jesse," 
and " Allan Water " are both visible, and the moun- 
tains of Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, Ben Voirlich, Ben 
Venue, and the Grampian hills. We also saw the 
" Lady's rock " mentioned by Walter Scott, beneath 
which, the ancient tournaments were held, and where 
Douglas performed his wondrous feats. Our guide 
we accidentally learned, was a soldier in the 71st 

[ 263 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

regiment, and was stationed at Quebec, eight years 
ago, at the time of our visit there. He remarked, that 
" America was a fine country, and that he much pre- 
ferred it, to his present station " ; he told us that the 
Governor of the castle, was named "Christie." From 
the newspapers, we learn, that " Lord Eglinton held 
another tournament, on the 30th inst., when the long 
anticipated banquet, and ball took place in magnifi- 
cent style." From letters also from London, we learn, 
that there are invitations for us all, from the Duke 
of Wellington to dinner, this is the second oppor- 
tunity we have lost, of dining with this distinguished 
man ; our absence at this time, preventing it, of 
course. 

Monday Evening, September 2. Edinburgh. We 
embarked on board a steamboat this morning, and 
saw many objects of interest, as we passed along the 
river Forth ; on its banks, were the ruins of a mon- 
astery of Cistercians, long since gone, and the few 
remains of a castle, where it is said, the Grand- 
mother of Oliver Cromwell was born. On our way 
to the steamer, we had a good view of " Cambusken- 
neth Abbey," alluded to in the " Lady of the Lake," 
and also in Miss Porter's "Scottish Chiefs" as a 
spot associated with the name of William Wallace. 

[ 264 ] 



BY STEAMBOAT TO EDINBURGH 



One spot was pointed out, as the residence in olden 
times of a lady named Stuart, who had in her pos- 
session a sword, once belonging to Robert Bruce. She 
was an aristocratic old lady, and when she was asked 
if she belonged to Bruce's family, with great dignity 
and hauteur, she replied : " Robert Bruce belonged 
to my family, Sir." With this sword, she used to 
confer the honour of knighthood, and it is said, that 
Burns the poet, was once knighted in this way, by 
the old lady Stuart. We stopped at Alloa for coal, 
but our sail was much protracted, owing to constant 
stoppages, and finally a copious shower completed 
the regret we had already begun to experience, that 
we had not taken the land route to Edinburgh. When 
however, the beautiful city became visible, in the dis- 
tance, we were consoled, in the hope of arriving at 
last, and of exchanging our wet garments, near a com- 
fortable fire. We were landed at Newhaven, and 
crossing a long chain pier at " Trinity," found car- 
riages in waiting, that soon brought us to this comfort- 
able " Douglas Hotel," where " Holton " was awaiting 
our coming, having accompanied the luggage, and 
carriage, and previously arranged with our host, 
for the suite of very fine apartments which we now 
occupy. 

[ 265 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



September 3. Douglas Hotel, Edinburgh. We 
have been busily occupied all day, in endeavoring to 
make ourselves familiar, with this novel, and pictur- 
esque city ; we have also been tempted to purchase 
some beautiful Scotch fabrics, the manufacture of 
which, is peculiar to Scotland. Among other things, 
we have visited the " Museum of Scotch Antiquities," 
where we saw what is said to be the real "John 
Knox's pulpit," although there are some four or five 
others, shown, in different parts of Scotland ; pos- 
sibly, he may have at different times, used them all. 
There was also the " Standard of the Covenanters " 
used at the battle of Bothwell Bridge, a pair of white 
kid gloves, embroidered in black, once the property 
of Queen Mary, a cane, with the name of " Signor 
da Eizzio," on its ivory head, also, a large rusty key, 
found in Loch Leven, and lastly, a ticket of admis- 
sion " to a Ball, and Masquerade," that was to have 
been given in Boston, America, in 1776, but was 
given up, in consequence of the departure of the 
British troops. Our spacious parlour, from which I 
write, faces the square, in front of the house, where 
stands, a fine monument to Lord Melville, whose 
statue ornaments the top. Beyond this square, some 
ways down George's Street, facing our windows, 

[ 266 ] 



EDINBURGH 



stands a statue of George IV; down the same beau- 
tiful street, still below this, is still another, erected 
to William Pitt. On our left, is the " Royal bank," 
with a statue of the 4th Earl of Hopetoun standing 
beside a horse, the head of the animal bent down 
between his forefeet. The population of Edinburgh 
is about 40,000. Mr. Webster has just returned from 
a visit to the Courts of Law, and Advocates' library, 
and has seated himself in Walter Scott's chair. We 
all know that this is the scene of the " Heart of Mid 
Lothian " ; Edinburghshire is Mid Lothian, Had- 
dingtonshire is East Lothian, and Linlithgowshire 
is West Lothian. The whole of the South shore of 
the Firth of Forth, bears the general name of " Lo- 
thian," being divided into the above named counties. 
I have found here a long and interesting letter from 
Lady Georgiana Fane, in which she speaks of the 
Duke's having sent us all invitations to dinner, and 
says he appeared "excessively disappointed" when 
he learned from her, that Mr. Webster was not in 
London. To-morrow we go to " Dalmahoy " for a few 
days, the seat of the Earl of Morton, which is about 
nine miles from Edinburgh. This invitation we re- 
ceived, and accepted in London, but Mr. Webster 
felt, that owing to the accession to our party, we 

[ 267 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

were too numerous now, to make this visit, and went 
with excuses to Lord and Lady Morton to-day ; but 
these hospitable persons would not listen to any ex- 
cuses, and insisted on Mr. Webster's bringing us 
all to Dalmahoy to-morrow, as they had been expect- 
ing us for two days, and rooms were ready for our 
occupancy, and in short, they would take no refusal. 
Wednesday, September 4. This is by far, the most 
beautiful city, I ever saw. Its streets and public 
buildings are certainly on a very magnificent scale, 
and nothing can be more striking, than the contrast 
between the old town, and the new ; in the former, 
some of the houses rise to the height of twelve storeys. 
We have just returned from visiting the " Abbey, 
and palace of Holyrood," and " Edinburgh Castle." 
The former, was founded by David I, in 1128, some- 
times called " Saint David." 

" Since good King David reared thy walls." 

It is a large quadrangular building of hewn stone, 
and so connected with Scottish history, that it by the 
most indifferent, cannot but be regarded with deep, 
and powerful interest. It is situated at the extreme 
end of the long street of the Canongate, overlooked 
by " Calton Hill," the " beetling cliffs " of " Salisbury 

[ 268 ] 



HOLYROOD 



Crags," and " Arthur's Seat " ; yet the situation of 
Holyrood house is low, and far from being imposing, 
notwithstanding the romantic scenery that surrounds 
it. No use has been made of the Abbey since the 
revolution, except as a cemetery for the illustrious 
dead. At the upper end, on the right, is a vault, into 
which we looked, through an iron grating, and there 
lay, the skeleton figures, of the only remaining kings, 
and queens of Scotland ; the coffins enclosing them 
are long since gone, and there they lie, on separate 
shelves, for the idle, and curious, to gaze upon. 
Among them are those of Darnley, Mary's husband, 
and Jane, Countess of Argyll, half-sister to the 
Queen, and who was supping with her, and Rizzio, 
the night this unfortunate man was so savagely 
butchered, in the royal presence. A flat stone, cov- 
ers a grave, said to be his, but this is still a disputed 
fact. It is assigned as a reason, for doubting, that 
Eizzio's murderers hated and despised him too much, 
to have buried him, in so honoured a spot. In the 
only remaining tower, is a handsome marble monu- 
ment to the memory of Lord Belhaven, " who died 
at Edinburgh the 12th January, from the incarna- 
tion of the Messiah 1639, and of his age 66, being 
the third year above his great climacteric." Other 

[ 269 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

stones, mark the graves, of many Monks, Abbots, 
and Saints. On a tombstone of more recent date, 
than those that surround it, I read : " to the memory 
of the Earl of Selkirk, and his daughters, the Ladies 
Isabella and Catherine Douglas," they were the an- 
cestors of our London friends. The picture gallery, 
150 feet long, an ordinary looking, cheerless apart- 
ment, contains the portraits of 100 Kings of Scot- 
land ; most of them were miserable daubs ; one 
female head among them, taken for Marie Stuart, 
but much defaced at Cromwell's time, by his people, 
who made this their barrack room. The cicerone, 
a respectable sort of matron, who monopolized the 
showing of these apartments, conducted us to poor 
" Marie's audience chamber," and more interesting 
still, to her "bed-room," and diminutive "closet," 
the scene of the Italian's murder. On the table is 
the armour (of gigantic proportions), boot and 
gloves, once worn by Henry Darnley. In the pres- 
ence room is a portrait of Jane Shore, Nell Gwyn, 
and a chair of state made for the Queen, at the time 
of her marriage with Darnley. The bed was of crim- 
son damask, with green trimmings and fringes, but 
sadly time-worn, and curtailed, by the fingers of 
rapacious antiquarians. The guide also exhibited 

[ 270 ] 



HOLYROOD 



Queen Mary's workbox, and her candlestick, and a 
covering for a workbox, the embroidery, the " work 
of the Queen's own hands." The rooms are, as they 
were, when occupied ; the dark passage, through which 
the conspirators came, is still shown, although we 
were warned not to enter, on account of the inse- 
curity of the floor, the partitions of which were of 
red paint, but worm eaten, and fast decaying away. 
The unfortunate favorite was dragged from this closet, 
through the bedchamber, to the upper end of the 
presence room, where he was left, pierced with 56 
wounds. To the stain of blood, our good woman, 
with the utmost faith, and credulity, called our 
attention, and also to the partition, which divided 
this, from the remainder of the room ; it once had, 
without doubt, been one apartment. According to 
the guide, Queen Mary had herself, ordered this 
partition, " to shut out from her sight the fatal spot," 
at the same time, she had forbidden the removal of 
the stains, that it might forever remain a monu- 
ment "of so black, and guilty a deed." After pur- 
chasing some prints descriptive of this interesting 
spot, we proceeded on our visit to Edinburgh castle, 
and while ascending to the top, which was quite steep, 
we met, several detachments of the 78th Highlanders, 

[ 271 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



in their picturesque costumes, coming down. They 
were on their way to the Links of the river Forth. 
We afterward saw the whole regiment of five hun- 
dred men, from the castle ; it was a very fine sight. 
The view from the ramparts is very extensive and 
beautiful ; their great elevation commanding a vast 
extent of diversified country. In one room of the 
castle, James VI, the son of Mary, was born ; it is a 
dark, cheerless place, and not more than nine feet 
square. At 5 o'clock we drove to " Dalmahoy," and 
were received with great cordiality by Lord and 
Lady Morton. On our way we passed the extensive 
estate of Sir James Craig. 1 

The Countess of Haddington is staying here, a 
lady of about 60 years of age (we had previously 
met her one evening at Lady Wharncliffe's in Lon- 
don). Mr. Hope, 2 the dean of Faculty, arrived soon 
after ourselves, and he, and Lady Haddington and 
ourselves, constitute the dinner guests to-day. Lord 
Morton had just returned from a shooting excursion 
with his son, as we arrived, and received us in his 
hunting apparel. He is a charming person, with 

1 Sir James Gibson-Craig, Baronet, 1765-1850. 

2 John Hope, 1794-185S ; Scottish judge ; Dean of Faculty of 
Advocates, 1830. 

[ 272 ] 



HOPETOUN HOUSE 



great simplicity of manners, cultivated, and hospi- 
table, a direct descendant from George Douglas, 1 the 
first Earl of Morton, who so aided Mary's escape 
from Loch Leven. A portrait of the Queen, ouce 
his property, and known to be original, hangs over 
the drawing-room mantel-piece at Dalmahoy ; it is a 
pleasing picture, but not so beautiful a face, as the 
one I have spoken of, as seen at Warwick Castle. 

Thursday, September 5. Dalmahoy. The rain, 
which had been unceasing, until one o'clock, did 
cease, to our great joy, at the hour of luncheon, and 
Lady Morton proposed a drive to Hopetoun House, 
which, as it is said to be one of the finest things in 
Scotland, we were glad of an opportunity of seeing. 
Lady Hopetoun, and her beautiful sister Miss Mac- 
donald, had just returned from Eglinton castle. The 
house itself contains some remarkable paintings. A 
Murillo, of a Lady Abbess, has been several times 
copied, and is a most powerful painting. The pic- 
tures were all attached to the walls, by hinges, 
allowing their being moved, like a door, or shutter, 

1 George Douglas, who helped Queen Mary escape from Loch- 
leven in 1567, was never Earl of Morton. His elder brother, William 
Douglas, succeeded to the peerage in 1588, as 6th or 7th Earl of 
Morton. This latter was custodian of Queen Mary at Lochleven, 
and was the ancestor of the Earls of Morton. 



[ 273 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

to accommodate the light. This is not unusual in 
other picture galleries we have visited. The grounds 
however, are the great charm of the spot. The sea 
terrace is quite extensive, and commands a fine view 
of the Firth of Forth, Blackness castle, and Borrow- 
stounness, all of which places, we had ourselves 
passed, on the river, in coming to Edinburgh. The 
place is celebrated all over Scotland for its extensive 
prospect. A " Scotch mist," produced by the rain, 
was prevailing, which injured the view, greatly to 
Lady Hopetoun's regret, who remarked " that if we 
pronounced it fine, in this state of the atmosphere, 
that she might, without vanity be allowed to say, 
that we should be enchanted on a day, when the at- 
mosphere was quite clear." Lady Hopetoun has one 
son and heir, an only child, 1 and in a fair way to be 
spoiled, by the specimen we had. Her health, ever 
since his birth, has been very precarious. She now 
suffers from a dropsical complaint, and her lips, 
which are quite purple, in their colour, indicate also, 
an additional complaint of the heart. They both 
wore mourning for the recent death of a Sister ; the 
clear and brilliant complexion of Miss Macdonald, 
contrasting most becomingly, with the sombre hue 

1 John Alexander Hope, 6th Earl of Hopetoun, 1831-73. 
[ 274 ] 



HOPETOUN HOUSE 



of her dress. They said, that although the ball, took 
place on the next night but one, at Eglinton, 
it was not the successful affair, that was antici- 
pated ; the continued rain having caused a damp- 
ness, which the heat of the wax lights for a time 
contributed so much to increase, that ladies were all 
sending for their scarfs, mantles, and even their 
cashmere shawls, to protect themselves from the 
chill, produced by the mist, of the temporary ball- 
room. Unfortunate Lord Eglinton ! And still more 
unfortunate tournament bringing in the end, but 
disappointment, and dismay, to its amiable, and ex- 
cellent projector! I quite congratulate myself on 
having seen this beautiful and far-famed Hopetoun. 
The poet Burns, in a little song, to the tune of 
"Maggy Lauder" (I believe), thus speaks of it: 

" Had I Dundas' whole estate, 

Or Hopetowi's wealth to shine in, 
Did warlike laurels crown my brow, 

Or humbler bays entwining, 
I 'd lay them a' at Jeannie's feet 
Could I but hope to move her, 
And prouder than a belted Knight 
I 'd be my Jeannie's lover." 
&c. &c. &c. 

We reached Dalmahoy just in time to make our 
toilette for dinner. The homeward drive was de- 

[ 275 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

lightful, the sun was again shining, and the culti- 
vated, and beautiful country, seen to the best advan- 
tage. We talked of Miss Burdett-Coutts ; Lady- 
Morton thought she might never marry, from her 
having been already, the mark for so numerous a 
class of fortune hunters, and the extreme difficulty 
of making a choice, where the temptation of her im- 
mense wealth, made their pretensions so question- 
able. Lady Morton named one or two gentlemen, 
who had made love to the lady, but the wealthy 
heiress read their hearts, and scorned their love. I 
shrewdly suspect that the Kev'd. Mr. Harness is not 
without hopes of success in this quarter. He half 
seriously, desired me one evening, at Miss Rogers', 
to recommend him to the lady, but nothing but the 
strictest intimacy, could excuse an intrusion of that 
nature. 

Lady Morton also related anecdotes of Walter 
Scott, who often visited at Dalmahoy. When the 
Tales of a Grandfather first appeared, her elder 
children with eagerness, again, and again devoured 
its contents, and very soon the book became dog- 
eared, and thumbed, from its constant use. One 
evening, as it lay upon the table, Sir Walter saw its 
condition, and turning to Lady Morton assured her 

[ 276 ] 



DALMAHOY 



" it was the greatest compliment he had ever received," 
and he then sat down among the children at the 
table, and related to them additional anecdotes of 
their ancestor the Earl of Douglas, and entranced 
the children's attention for over an hour, to the de- 
light of all auditors, both great, and small. Our 
hostess was disappointed in two guests at dinner, 
Mr. Stewart, a neighbouring gentleman, and their 
son and heir, Lord Aberdour, 1 he is in the army, 
and now stationed at Stirling, with his regiment ; he 
was at Quebec with Lord Durham. Lord Morton 
wrote to his Son, to obtain leave of absence, but 
from his not appearing, they infer, that the applica- 
tion was unsuccessful. Owing to the late Chartist 
disturbances, they have become very strict in the 
army. There was however, no deficiency of either 
hilarity, or kindness, and good cheer, at our dinner 
table, and the evening has been enlivened by good 
music from Lady Anne, 2 the eldest unmarried 
daughter, and the agreeable interchange of conver- 
sation, and pleasant chat, among all parties. The 
Governess, a particularly ladylike, interesting, and 

1 Sholto John Douglas, Lord Aberdour, 1818-84, later 18th 
Earl of Morton. 

2 Ellen Susan Anne Douglas was the second daughter. 

[ 277 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

youthful person, appeared after dinner, at Lady 
Morton's "invitation." She told us, that she did 
this frequently when there was company, but never, 
when she, and Lord Morton were alone. She also 
remarked (and it seemed most just), that the situa- 
tion of a Governess was after all rather pitiable, for 
she seemed to belong to, neither one class, nor the 
other, in English Society, poor thing! I sat down 
by this invited "guest," and found her sensible, 
modest, and apparently clever, and thought how 
desolate and lonely, must her lot often be! Our 
hostess has six children, three boys, and three girls ; 
little Gertrude who is three years old, and the 
youngest, is admitted daily to the dessert, while the 
older ones are found afterward in the drawing-room. 
This little girl is the pet, and darling, is very lovely, 
with blue eyes, flaxen hair in long ringlets, and rosy 
cheeks and lips; they dress her in embroidered 
cambrics, and muslins, trimmed with ribbon and 
bows, and she is indeed one of the sweetest little 
Hebes I ever looked upon. Lady Haddington over- 
heard her correcting her nurse, who called her 
" Miss Gertrude," she insisting she was not "Miss," 
but the "Lady Gertrude"; they were apparently 
much amused at this, and wondered where she could 

[ 278 ] 



DALMAHOY 



have learned the fact! The eldest daughter i has 
married Viscount Milton, the eldest son of Lord 
Fitz william, to whose country seat near Peterbor- 
ough, Mr. Webster and party have been invited. 
Lady Milton was confined in July, with a son and 
heir. Lady Morton herself, is daughter to Sir George 
Eose, who many years ago was British minister to 
our country. The Duke of Gordon, from whose 
castle Willis wrote his letters, is a relative of Lady 
Morton; it seems that Willis, on his return to 
America, wrote an apologetical letter to his Grace, 
on account of his recent publications, and at the 
same time begged permission to dedicate his forth- 
coming book to him ! 

Friday evening, September 6. Edinburgh. Lord 
and Lady Morton expressed much regret that we 
could not remain with them another day, but our 
engagements prevented. 

We have been dining, according to previous ar- 
rangement, at " Craigcrook Castle," the country place 
of Lord Jeffrey^ nine miles out of Edinburgh. Mrs. 

1 Frances Harriet Douglas, daughter of George Sholto, 17th Earl 
of Morton ; married, 1838, William Thomas Spencer Wentworth- 
Fitzwilliam, Viscount Milton, later 6th Earl Fitzwilliam ; died, 1895. 

2 Francis Jeffrey, Lord Jeffrey, 1773-1850 ; Scottish judge and 
critic ; Judge of the Court of Sessions, 1834-50. 

[ 279 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Jeffrey, and her Daughter Mrs. Empson, had called 
on us this morning, and named half past six, as their 
dinner hour, but Lord Jeffrey afterward, saw Mr. 
Webster, and made it a particular request, that he 
would come out at five, that he might have an oppor- 
tunity of showing him his park, grounds, &c. Mrs. 
Jeffrey was walking in her grounds, when we arrived, 
but shortly appeared, with a bouquet of pinks, from 
her garden, and after sitting for a short time retired 
to dress for dinner. Mrs. Jeffrey is an American, 
and was the daughter of the late Mr. Charles Wilkes 
of New York. She was cousin to the first Mrs. 
Charles Codman 1 (formerly Miss McMasters), and 
about the present wife, she made many enquiries. She 
is full of intelligence, and talent, but labours under 
a most excessive nervous affection, that keeps her 
limbs, and features, in a constant, and painful mo- 
tion. Her daughter, has an infant five months old, 
which she is to leave shortly, in the care of her 
Mother, while she accompanies her husband for six 
or seven months to London. Lord Jeffrey himself, 
is a small sized, rather spare person, with a prepos- 
sessing countenance, with hair of mingled grey. His 
house is not large, but prettily furnished. It was 

1 Ann McMasters ; married Charles Russell Codman. 
[ 280 ] 



DINNER WITH LORD JEFFREY 



1 



formerly attached to the ecclesiastical estate of Holy- 
rood, but at the time of the suppression of the mon- 
asteries, it fell into other hands, when Lord Jeffrey 
shortly after his marriage, purchased it of Mr. Cadell, 
the Edinburgh book-seller (connected with Walter 
Scott, and often mentioned by Lockhart, in his life 
of his father-in-law). Over the mantel-piece in Lord 
Jeffrey's " den " was an exquisite piece of oak carving 
inserted in the wall ; a relic from the screen of a ca- 
thedral, I believe. His guests were Sir Robert Eolfe, 2 
Mr. Eutherfurd the Lord advocate, Lord Colburn,3 
Lord Fullerton,* and Mr. Fullerton, and Mr. Emp- 
son, the son-in-law ; these were men of eminence of 
the bench and bar. 

In the drawing-room, was a cabinet portrait in 
full length, of Keats. He was an intimate friend 
of Lord J's, and the likeness, they said, was strik- 
ing. It was a melancholy face. Mrs. Jeffrey hap- 
pened to receive a letter to-day from Mr. Edward 
Ellice, who owns a place in the Highlands, the pur- 

1 Robert Cadell, 1788-1849 ; Edinburgh publisher. 

2 Sir Robert Monsey Rolfe, later Baron Cranworth, 1790-1868 ; 
lawyer ; took a seat on the bench in 1839. 

3 Possibly Henry Thomas Coekburn, Lord Coekburn, 1779-1854 ; 
Scottish judge. 

4 John Fullerton, Lord Fullerton, 1775-1853 ; Scottish judge ; 
Lord of Session. 

[ 281 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

port of the letter, was for them to say to " Mr. 
Webster and party, that he depended on seeing them 
in the Highlands, and that if we would come for two 
days, to his house, he would accompany us to Aber- 
deen, and other places of interest near." This would 
be interesting and agreeable, but Mr. Webster has 
decided, that it is out of our power to go further north, 
and the invitation must therefore be declined, as well 
as another, which Mr. Webster has received, to dine 
with the Dean of Faculty, to-morrow ; but we must 
proceed on our way. We left Dalmahoy this morning 
after breakfast, Mr. Webster being under an engage- 
ment at 12 o'clock, to visit with Mr. Hope (the 
Dean of Faculty), the Advocates' library and other 
institutions connected with it. Lady Haddington 
civilly expressed her regret that her absence from 
home deprived her of the pleasure of receiving us at 
" Tynninghame House." 

A few weeks in the vicinity of Edinburgh might 
be most profitably and agreeably spent ; we did not 
attempt the ascent of " Salisbury Crag," or of " Ar- 
thur's Seat," both of which are celebrated for their 
fine, and extensive views. On the whole, this is the 
most beautiful and striking city we have yet seen, and 
the prognostications of Sir Eobert Peel, have been 

[ 282 ] 



SCOTLAND AND THE SCOTCH 



more than verified, for we are very " much " pleased 
with " far famed Caledonia." 

September 7. Cornhill, Northumberland. We 
find ourselves unexpectedly, once more in England, 
as this little piece of the County of Northumberland 
comes in a strange way up to this corner, although 
the larger portion of the county, is fifty miles dis- 
tant. There is much in Scotland to delight the eye, 
and gratify the taste, but in point of neatness, 
and comfort, England greatly excels her neighbour. 
Among the peasantry, and at the different Inns, this 
is particularly striking. The women of the common 
class in Scotland wear no shoes or stockings, although 
on Sundays, and gala days, they dress as well as the 
same class, in our own country; but from Kilmar- 
nock to Eglinton, the people, although dressed in 
their best, were walking the roads in crowds, and 
both male, and female, with their bare feet ! 

We were detained longer than we intended at Edin- 
burgh this morning, in consequence of the chamber- 
maid's having abducted a quantity of our valuable 
laces and muslins, under the pretence of getting them 
clearstarched. On sending our maid for the missing 
articles, the chamber-maid strenuously denied all 
knowledge of them, denying that she ever received 

[ 283 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

them, &c. As this occurred, as we were on the point 
of leaving, we laid our case before the Landlady, who 
hopes to be able to restore our lost articles. There 
was a large quantity, and of considerable value, and 
we shall be much inconvenienced if we do not recover 
the articles again.* At half past seven, again in the 
rain, we left Edinburgh and drove to Torsonce, a 
distance of twenty-four miles, where we breakfasted ; 
the house untidy, the breakfast uninviting. There 
taking fresh horses we proceeded to "Galashiels," 
and thence to " Abbotsford " the darling home of 
Sir Walter Scott, the " Tweedside laird." How shall 
I describe my feelings, as we first caught sight of 
this deeply interesting spot ? But who could see even 
its distant turrets, with indifference? It stands low, 
on the banks of the Tweed (a sweet river, overhung 
by bushes). It commands no prospect, and is alto- 
gether a less stately edifice, than would be inferred 
from most of the prints that are seen. Sir Walter 
called it "Abbotsford" from the fact of the lands, 
having once belonged to Melrose Abbey ; and Mel- 
rose itself is visible from different spots about the 

* Some days after they were most of them forwarded to us, but we 
should never have found them, had we not made a great stir in the 
matter, and insisted on the facts. (H. S. P.) 

[ 284 ] 



ABBOTSFORD 



grounds. The entrance hall is about 40 feet long, 
the floor in mosaic of black and white marble. It 
contains a great variety of interesting relics, of all 
kinds. Tin- ceiling is painted to resemble oak, and 
ornamented with the family crest. Emblazoned on 
the wall opposite the entrance, are the shields and 
crests of the Border Chieftains with various devices, 
and above them this inscription: 

u These be the coat armories of the clannis, and 
eliiefin.n of name, wha keepit the marchys of Scot- 
land in the auld tvnie for the kynge; Trewe war they 
in their tune, and in their defense, God them de- 
fendyt." 

On th»' left of the wall are two carved figures rep- 
resenting Saint Peter, and Saint Paul, copied from 
Melrose : as was also a stone mantel-piece here seen. 
At the opposite extremity are two mailed figures, in 
full suits of armour, one being copied from the 
Tower of London, and the other, we were told by 
the show-woman, was Italian. From the entrance 
hall we passed to a sort of small armoury filled with 
spears, claymores, and a great, and interesting col- 
lection of various warlike implements. This com- 
municates with the dining-room, not of very large 
dimensions, hung round with portraits, and contig- 

[ 285 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

uous is the drawing-room, where near an Oriel win- 
dow, overlooking the Tweed, is said to be the con- 
secrated spot where the " Mighty Minstrel of the 
North" as Washington Irving calls him, breathed 
out his precious life. The whole house abounds with 
antiquities. The Library is next contiguous, and 
evidently a more recent addition in Sir Walter's 
later, and more prosperous days. It is handsome, 
and spacious, being somewhere about sixty feet by 
fifty. It is said to contain twenty odd thousand vol- 
umes. Over the mantel, is a full length portrait of 
the eldest son, the present Sir Walter, in his hand- 
some regimental dress. He has now gone with his 
regiment to India. His appearance is said to be quite 
unlike his Father's ; he has not the reputation either 
of any remarkable talent, or cleverness, he might 
however, pass for such, were he the son of almost 
any other man. Since the death of the original, 
Chantrey's noble bust of Sir Walter, has been placed 
in a niche in this library, also one of Shakspeare, a 
facsimile to the one over the tomb at Avon. From 
this, we passed to the study or sanctum of Sir Wal- 
ter; it was truly a hallowed spot! Here was the 
table, or desk, at which he wrote, the chair he oc- 
cupied, the lamp and its midnight oil yet unspent, 

[ 286 ] 



ABBOTSFORD 



but the magic minstrel where was he? It was a small, 
plain apartment lighted by one single window, with 
a cabinet, and bookshelves. A gallery, or balustrade 
encircles the wall above, and communicates through 
a small door, to the dressing-room, and bed-room of 
the Poet. From these apartments, Sir Walter could 
descend the staircase to the room below, going, and 
returning at his will, without another's cognizance. 
Attached to this lower room, is a little closet, the 
four pillars of which are composed of the posts of a 
bedstead, said to have been once the property of 
Mary of Scots, in childhood ; it is of very ancient 
oak, somewhat elaborately carved, a gift to Sir Wal- 
ter, many years ago. Against the wall, is a glass case 
containing the last garments he wore ; the pantaloons 
of shepherd's plaid, the coat, and vest, and hanging 
near, are his boots, his cane, upon which he so con- 
stantly leaned, and likewise his hunting belt. These 
are most painful, and affecting memorials of a great 
man, but I question the propriety, of placing them 
where they are, for the gratification of public curi- 
osity ; they are too sacred to be looked upon by every 
vulgar eye. In the drawing-room was a table, and. 
upon it a large vase, a present from Lord Byron to 
Scott ; we also saw a beautiful carved writing desk, 

[ 287 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the gift of George III, and chairs richly wrought (in 
ebony I presume), from King George IV. The gar- 
den was full of blooming flowers. In it, was a large 
stone fountain, said to have stood upon the cross at 
Edinburgh, and to have played with wine, on great 
occasions, in former times. In our walk about the 
grounds, we were accosted by an aged woman of neat 
appearance, who said in broad, and almost unintel- 
ligible Scotch, that it was " saft weather." She told 
me that she " cam wi Thomas Purdie sax and twenty 
years ago to Abbotsford," and here she had remained 
ever since. It was the " rib " of poor Thomas Purdie, 
the faithful wood-forester, whose death, was so shock- 
ing to Sir Walter that he writes to Cadell that he 
really "wished to be quit of the country, and safe in 
town." Close to Melrose Abbey is a monument to 
his memory, erected by Sir Walter, ten years ago ; 
the epitaph finishes with this beautiful quotation 
from Scripture : " Thou hast been faithful over a few 
things, I will make thee ruler over many things." 
On the left of the garden pathway, just on entering 
the porch is a representation in stone, of the favorite 
stag hound Maida, with the following inscription ; 

" Maidae Marmorea dormis sub imagine Maida 
Ad januam doniini sit tibi terra levis." 

[ 288 ] 



ABBOTSFORD 



Lock hart in his " Life " tells us, this was thus Eng- 
lished by Sir Walter: 

" Beneath the sculptured form which late you wore, 
Sleep soundly, Maida, at your Master's door." 

There is said to be an error, in the second line, " Ad 
iaimam," being false in quantity, acknowledged after- 
ward by the poet, and explained also in Lockhart's 
life of Scott. 

We wire at once, reminded of Fletcher's epitaph, 
on his father's famous horse "Steamboat," so cele- 
brated for his L, r reat strength and speed, buried on 
Gotham hill, at Marshfield. 

I lie jacet 

Steamboat 

D. Websterii 

Equus celeberrimus 

Siste viator I viator te major hie sistit. 

Lady Morton told me that Anne Scott 1 was ex- 
tremely good and amiable, but not remarkable in any 
way for talent. Sophia 2 (Mrs. Lockhart) bore a 
much closer mental resemblance to her Father, and 
was clever and accomplished. The son of Lockhart's 
(" Johnny "), who died, was a child of most uncommon 

1 Anne Scott ; died, 1833. 

2 Charlotte Sophia Scott ; married John Gibson Lockhart ; died, 

1837. 

[ 289 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

promise ; the two surviving ones, a son and daughter, 
are both of delicate constitutions, and have not as 
yet, given proofs of inheriting the cleverness of the lit- 
tle " Johnny Lockhart," about whom Scott expressed 
himself so anxiously, and prophetically in his " diary." 
A distance of three miles brought us to Melrose 
Abbey, the scene of the " Lay of the last Minstrel." 
It is an interesting ruin, and the perspective on en- 
tering is fine. It had one great deficiency which I 
could not overcome ; the absence of the ivy which 
adds so much to most other ruins in Europe. The 
guide, Johnny Bower, a bit of an artist (of whom 
we purchased views of Abbotsford, and of these 
ruins), remarked that ivy, was the particular dislike 
of " the Laird," it being so destructive to ruins, in- 
sinuating itself between the stones, and thereby caus- 
ing them to fall. This observation surprised me, as 
I had previously quite a different impression, that 
by its clinging support, a fine column, or an arch, had 
been often hereby, preserved, to the delight of all anti- 
quarians, and lovers of the picturesque. This abbey 
was built by the Cistercians, an order of monks, for- 
merly from Normandy, I think ; notwithstanding its 
want of " clasping tendrils," no one can feel any- 
thing but deep interest in a spot, so hallowed with 

[ 290 ] 



V 



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MELROSE ABBEY 



the memory of the " good Sir Walter," and it is also 
said to be the same place, under the name " Ken- 
naquhair " alluded to in the " Monastery," and the 
"Abbot." Our showman was enthusiastic in his 
praises of Sir Walter, several times repeating scraps 
of his poetry, and of that well-known extract, be- 
ginning : 

" If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright, 
Go visit it hy the pale moonlight." 

All similar scenes are greatly enhanced by the 
" pale light of the moon," but of this enjoyment, we 
were necessarily denied. Johnny pointed out the east 
window of the South transept through which the 
moon came, and imagination did the rest. He also 
shewed us the stone upon which the Poet used to sit 
with Maida by his side. He said that Sir Walter 
was generally accompanied by some " great person- 
age," staying at Abbotsford, with him, and that seven 
or eight times during the season, he was there. On 
his last visit, he was accompanied by Captain Burns, 
the son of the Poet. When Johnny expressed the hope 
that his contemplated visit to Italy would be of serv- 
ice, Scott shook his head, and said : " I fear, Johnny, 
this is the last time we shall meet in this world. If 
so, then fare ye well, Johnny, for I fear it is so." 

C 291 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Three miles from Melrose is Dryburgli Abbey, 
along the banks of the river Tweed, where lie the 
remains of the " Master of Abbotsford," the spot in 
life, he chose, for his last resting place, where also 
lie the Haliburtons, the ancestors of his Mother. On 
the 26th of September he was here interred in the 
year 1832. No sound disturbed the poet's tomb, but 
the distant murmuring of his favorite Tweed. 
" So Heaven has willed it, and we die." 

The rain had ceased, and our drive from Melrose 
to Kelso, fifteen miles distant, was very agreeable. 
The town is very beautifully located, and has great 
celebrity for its salmon fishing and sporting. " Lam- 
mermoor" is but a few miles distant. The view from 
the bridge, is finely picturesque, commanding a sight 
of Koxburgh, or Fleurs castle, the seat of the young 
Duke of Roxburghe, 1 whose Duchess, 2 last Thurs- 
day, (we were told by Lady Morton), had presented 
him, with a son, and heir, the happy event being 
hailed with great rejoicings, in the family. The dis- 
tant view of the old abbey of Kelso, adds much to 

1 James Henry Robert Lines-Ker, 6th Duke of Roxburghe, 
1816-79. 

2 Susanna Stephanie Dalbiac, daughter of Lieutenant-General 
Sir James Charles ; married, 1836, James Henry Robert Innes-Ker, 
6th Duke of Roxburghe. 

[ 292 ] 



DRYBURGH ABBEY TO CORNHILL 



the effect of the landscape. It appears to be a min- 
gling of the Gothic, with the Saxon style of archi- 
tecture ; the arches that support the "lantern" of 
the tower, are thought to be inferior only, to York 
Minster. The coronation of King James took place 
in this church, in 1460 immediately upon the death 
of his Father, by the explosion of a cannon before the 
ancient castle of Koxburgh, the ruins of which are 
to be seen, a mile farther on. It was destroyed in 
1460 ; the modern one, is still in the process of com- 
pletion. 

Our next post was to this place (Cornhill) through 
the town of Coldstream, where we have secured com- 
fortable apartments. The Marquis of Waterford, 1 
one of the Knights of the Tournament (and who 
made himself so conspicuous in our country a few 
years ago), is the owner of large estates in the vi- 
cinity of Cornhill ; the Landlord tells us that he is 
now, for the first time, on a visit to these possessions, 
in the neighborhood. The land adjacent to the town, 
belongs principally to the Earl Grey. 

1 Henry de la Poer Beresford, 3d Marquis of Waterford, 1811- 
59. In his youth he obtained an unenviable notoriety for his eccen- 
tricities, but became afterwards one of the best landlords and 
most improving cultivators in Ireland, and universally popular and 
respected. 

[ 293 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Here we shall quietly pass to-morrow, it being 
Sunday, after which, we shall bid adieu to Scotland. 

" Farewell to the mountains highcover'd with snow; 
Farewell to the straths and green valleys helow; 
Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods; 
Farewell to the torrents and loud-pouring floods." 

How frequently of late, has Kobert Burns, and 
his sweet and true poetry, been brought to my recol- 
lection, by recent scenes! 



VI 



gpouroep bath to Mention 

SUNDAY, September 8. I am unable to accom- 
pany the rest of the party, to the church, near 
our lodgings, by an attack of rheumatism, caused 
by the constant dampness of the atmosphere. We 
were awakened from our repose at twelve o'clock last 
night, by a loud knocking, and beating against the 
outside door, with repeated calling, vociferating, and 
whistling beneath the bedroom windows. The in- 
mates of the house, at length were roused, and after 
a rather long " confabulation," from the windows 
above, they were closed and the voices ceased, and 
all was again quiet. On enquiring at breakfast, the 
cause of this midnight uproar, and disturbance, we 
learned, that the Marquis of Waterford, had chosen 
that time of the night, for ordering post horses, to 
be in readiness this morning, for himself, and friends, 
to take them on a sporting, or fishing excursion, to 
Kelso to-day/ They told us at this latter place, that 
this notorious personage, was shortly expected there. 
Consequently, soon after our breakfast was finished, 

[ 295 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



Lord Waterf ord, accompanied by his brother-in-law, 
Lord Ingestre 1 (a very wild fellow), Lord Alford 2 
and Mr. Beresford, drove to the inn door, followed 
by a post-chaise, containing various articles of lug- 
gage, ammunition, champagne baskets, wooden tubs 
&c. &c. Their arrival apparently creating, great sen- 
sation in the neighbourhood, a crowd soon surround- 
ing the carriages, and their party. After half an hour, 
spent in overlooking the transportation by their 
liveried servants, of these articles to the different 
parts of the travelling carriage, and strewing the 
roadside with the straw used in packing, they made 
preparations for their departure, with their four 
horses and open barouche, not before, however, Lord 
AVaterford had made a profound bow, with a mis- 
chievous look at Julia, who had been a witness of all 
their proceedings, unobserved, as she had surely sup- 
posed, behind the muslin shade of the window. 

September 8. 3 Aln Bridge, Northumberland. The 
weather was " pluvious " from the time of our quit- 

1 Henry John Chetwynd-Talbot, Viscount Ingestre, later 3d 
Earl Talbot and 18th Earl of Shrewsbury, 1S03-68; married 
1828, Sarah Elizabeth Beresford, daughter of Henry de la Poer, 
2d Marquis of Waterford. 

2 John Hume Cust, Viscount Alford, 1812-51 ; son of Earl 
Brownlo'W. 

8 The date is repeated. 

[ 296 ] 



CORNHIL.L TO DURHAM 



ting Cornhill this evening, until reaching the above. 
We passed over the scene of the battle of " Flod- 
den Field," and by "Ossulston Park" the seat of 
the Earl of Tankerville. Our first post thirteen 
miles, brought us to Wooler, thirteen more, and we 
reached this place. The inn is clean and comfort- 
able ; we have ordered fires for all our bedrooms, 
but hope for more favorable weather, for an early 
start, on the morrow. 

Alnwick castle, the celebrated seat of the Duke 
of Northumberland, is but eight miles distant, but 
it is out of our route, the Duke is also there, and 
we do not visit it to-morrow. 

September 9. Northallerton, Yorkshire. We left 
"Aln Bridge" at 7 o'clock; breakfasted at "Mor- 
peth" fourteen miles, changing horses at a town 
called " Coquet " half way between the two. Fifteen 
miles further brought us to " Newcastle-upon-Tyne " ; 
the tall, smoky chimneys of its collieries, bringing 
to mind even at the distance the old adage " of car- 
rying coals to Newcastle." Nine more miles, and 
we reached Durham, where we tarried a short time 
to examine its ancient cathedral, which has consid- 
erable celebrity. It is of the Anglo-Saxon style, and 
the largest we have yet seen. The exterior of yel- 

[ 297 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



lowish stone is very fine, not strictly in the form of 
the Greek cross, like most others, we have visited, 
and there are more than the usual number of tran- 
septs. It was built at the end of the tenth, and the 
beginning of the eleventh century. The oak carv- 
ings on the principal door, are very beautiful ; the 
font is a very singular one, of the same material, in 
the main central aisle. The columns of the church, 
are of varied, singular, and even of rude architec- 
ture. Behind the screen of the grand altar, was the 
shrine of Saint Cuthbert, the stone being quite worn 
away, where the guide said, the " Pilgrims were ac- 
customed to kneel and pray." The tombs and mon- 
uments were not numerous. The most remarkable 
was that of Bede, the historian, with the following 
inscription : 

" Hac sunt in fossa 
Bedae Venerabilis ossa." 

Another stone covered the remains of Stephen 
Kemble, the brother of John, but I read no other 
familiar names. 

Our next post from Durham was Rushyford nine 
miles distant, and sixteen more brought us to Dar- 
lington. According to the little minutes, which the 
dean of faculty Mr. Hope, gave Mr. Webster, at 

[ 298 ] 



RAIN AND THE CROPS 



parting 1 , this town as a resting place, was to be 
avoided. The hotel looked uninviting. A few min- 
utes consultation decided us to order " horses out," 
and proceed nineteen miles further to this North- 
allerton, from which place I now write. By means 
of a douceur to the "boys," these last 19 miles were 
accomplished, according to Mr. Appleton's watch, in 
just one hour and a half. Thus we have driven 82 
miles, and have reached here at a quarter before 
seven o'clock ; we have just finished a repast com- 
bining a dinner, and tea in one. We are now one 
hundred and seventy miles from Edinburgh. Again 
the rain has followed us, but a rainy day in Eng- 
land, or Scotland, seems to differ from ours ; here, 
it is composed of showers, with occasional promises 
of sunshine, and then again 

— " Comes a shower 
Of rain, that might deluge the world in an hour ! " 

Mr. Webster thinks that to this is to be attrib- 
uted the fact, that the corn (the great product of 
this country, and which means any kind of grain), 
is not completely spoiled, by the prevailing rains, of 
the last month. The light breezes which occasion- 
ally spring up, with the glimpses of sunshine, ab- 
sorb the moisture shed by the rain upon the fields, 

[ 299 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

and preserve them from the fate, which with such a 
succession of American rainy days, must surely be- 
fall them. 

I have at last, found a book, that has told me, 
more than I knew, of the historian Bede, when I 
saw his tomb. I will copy it for the advantage of 
those at home, who may happen to be as ignorant as 
myself. 

" Venerable Bede, born at Wearmouth, in Dur- 
ham, A.D. 673 ; wrote Comments, or rather com- 
posed Catena on the principal books of the Old 
and New Testaments, from the writings of the 
Fathers, in which he interspersed a few original 
remarks. His works were printed at Colonna in 
1688." 

September 10. York, Yorkshire. Breakfasted at 
Northallerton, and at seven o'clock were driving 
through a very pretty country to Ripon fifteen miles 
distant. Here we rested for the purpose of seeing 
the extensive and justly celebrated ruins of Foun- 
tains Abbey, three miles from the town, on the 
estates of a Miss Lawrence, a maiden lady of sev- 
enty. She owns not only the estate of Studley and 
Fountains Abbey, but a large part of Ripon itself, 
and the surrounding country. Our walk to the ruins, 

[ 300 ] 



FOUNTAINS ABBEY 



was quite that of a mile, through the beautiful 
grounds of the estate. The river "Skell" runs 
through the spot, and has been made subservient to 
its liberal owner's taste, in giving greater effect, to 
the original loveliness of the spot. The walk was 
through long rows of shady trees, with occasional 
openings to most attractive views, not only of an 
artificial lake and river, but also of beautiful tem- 
ples, and rustic bridges; groups of fine statuary, 
give almost a fairylike appearance to the whole. We 
were told by the guide that a walk of four miles 
would be necessary to see all the beauties of the 
place, but this we declined, requesting to be taken 
at once, to the ruins. The first view, riveted at once 
our attention, and admiration; attractive as it is, it 
gives but a faint idea of its extreme extent, and 
beautv. 

In a hollow rock a short distance from the ruin, 
formed it is said, by an excavation when the 
Abbey was constructed, was the most remarkably 
distinct echo I ever remember to have heard. 
" Fountains Abbey " was built by that powerful or- 
der, the Cistercian monks in 1132 ; the edifice was 
consecrated to the Blessed Virgin, and in compli- 
ment to its chief patron St. Bernard, was named 

[ 301 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

after the place of his birth, " Fountains." " The 
Cistercians were an order that affected to restore 
that of St. Benedict to its original purity. Their 
austerity and strict religious discipline caused them 
to be much noticed, and being joined by St. Ber- 
nard, whose reputation for sanctity was only equalled 
by his abilities, they speedily became one of the 
most religious bodies in Christendom " ; so says 
history. 

We entered a door, through the " Lady chapel " 
which extends like a transept, beyond the body of 
the church. According to the guide, this single chapel 
was 131 feet by 27. The choir is 92 feet, 9 inches 
in length, and 67 feet, 3 inches in width. The two 
eastern arches are entire. The pavement of the Altar 
was quite perfect, with the exception of one single 
stone, abstracted by some sacrilegious wretch, but a 
few days previous. The mason was at that moment, 
endeavoring to remedy this misfortune, and our guide 
remarked, that should the fact of the theft, come to 
the knowledge of " the old lady," an end would be, 
at once put, to the coming of all future visitors, to 
the Abbey ; doubtless, greatly to the detriment of 
the said guide's fortunes. The nave is 99 feet in 
length, and we counted eleven arches on each side. 

[ 302 ] 



FOUNTAINS ABBEY 



The proportions of the great West window are very 
fine. 

From this, we passed to a quadrangular court, 
containing 126 square feet, and through this, we 
were taken to the ancient dormitory, to the refectory, 
and to the kitchen, also to the remains of the Abbot's 
residence, and apartments for visitors. The " Chapter 
House " still remains, with the tombs, and inscrip- 
tions upon many of them. South of the chapter house, 
was the Infirmary, and lodging-room. The kitchen, 
had a spacious fireplace, and communicated on one 
side, with a dining-room, on the other with a wine 
cellar, a curious spot, showing these saintly abbots, 
not unmindful of the good things of the flesh, as well 
as of the spirit. The Cloisters were however, the most 
interesting, and striking portion of the building. 
Through the care, and liberality of their owner, they 
are kept in a sound state, and although I have seen 
of late, many others, these realize my ideas of " a 
cloister," far beyond anything else. They are under 
ground like catacombs, and their perspective is su- 
perb. They have groined arches of the same rare 
antique architecture as that of Chester ; they are not 
supported on columns, but form one whole, to the 
ground. The same river Skell runs through the 

[ 303 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

South end of these Cloisters, and the sound of its 
rushing waters, is an agreeable accompaniment to 
the train of thought, the sight of all this antiquity- 
produces. These Cloisters are 272 feet long. The 
only remaining Tower is a fine proportioned build- 
ing, one hundred feet high, and 24 feet square. 
Visitors formerly, ascended to the top; but in con- 
sequence of the accidental fall of a visitor from the 
passage (which appears very dangerous), to the op- 
posite side, the lady owner has very properly put an 
end to the practice, by lock and key. Just behind 
the tessellated altar, was a vacant stone coffin, which 
the guide informed us, once held the remains of Hot- 
spur, first Baron Percy, 1 and first Earl ; the fact has, 
I believe, never been questioned, as this individual 
is known, and believed, to have been here interred. 
The guide having accidentally learned, we were Amer- 
icans, entered eagerly into conversation with Mr. 
Webster, on the subject of American lands, and said, 
that he had an Uncle in Boston, named Thomas 
Parker, who dealt largely in sheep, &c. ; that he had 
some idea of going to America himself since he had 

1 Sir Henry Percy (Hotspur) never succeeded to the titles, dying 
before Lis father, Henry de Percy, 1st Earl of Northumberland and 
4th Lord Percy. 

[ 304 ] 



FOUNTAINS ABBEY 



learned the surprising fact, that five or six hundred 
pounds would purchase there, a very handsome estate. 
He said a good deal more, but his broad Yorkshire 
dialect was almost incomprehensible, and we finally 
relinquished any attempt to understand him. 

I shall never forget my visit to " Fountains Abbey," 
truly it was, 

" A noble wreck in ruinous perfection." 

These ruins appeal so powerfully to the mind, by 
their association with bygone ages, so much of learn- 
ing, ignorance, and magnificence, combined ! So much 
for the tourist, particularly an American, to dwell, 
and ponder upon, that I am "'wildered with the 
thoughts, that have no utterance." 

I remember a verse, of an old English ballard, 
about Robin Hood and King Richard, can any 
one tell me where to find all the verses? This 
one runs : 

" From Fountains Abbey they did ride 
Down to Barnsdale ; 
Where Robin Hood prepared stood 
All company to assail." 

We drove back to Ripon ; the principal trade of 
the place is the making of saddle-trees. Our fresh 
post-horses soon took us to " Skipbridge," which is 

[ 305 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

eight miles from York ; from thence with again fresh 
horses, we caught our first view of the " Minster," 
rising as perceptibly in the distance as does St. 
Paul's from London, or the Castle of Edinburgh, 
from that beautiful city. As we entered York, a lady 
well mounted, attended by a groom, rode past us. 
We had scarcely alighted, when the servant, an- 
nounced to Mr. Webster, that Miss Harcourt, the 
daughter of the Archbishop of York, 1 was on her 
horse at the door, and wished to speak with him. 
The Archbishop was at Nuneham during our visit 
to Oxford, and Mr. Webster, when obliged to decline 
all their kind offers of civility there, promised to 
come to them when he visited York. The object of 
Miss Harcourt's present visit, was to ask us all, to 
" the Palace " for a few days ; when Mr. Webster 
was obliged to decline this kind proposal, she begged 
we would at least, stop, and dine with them to-mor- 
row. This also being necessarily declined, she kindly 
proposed our going there, to breakfast in the morn- 
ing, promising to show us afterward, the " Minster" 
themselves. We lose many similar tempting invita- 
tions by our want of time, and even this, we cannot 
do, being under the necessity of proceeding to-mor- 

1 Edward Harcourt, 1757-1847 ; Archbishop of York, 1S07-47. 

[ 30G ] 



FOUNTAINS HALL 



row, we cannot spare the time, to unpack our trunks, 
and make a toilette, for this breakfast. Mr. Web- 
ster will therefore, go alone to the palace, three 
miles distant, while we will take advantage of the 
opportunity, to see the Cathedral, or Minster.* 

Mr. Egerton Vernon-Harcourt a son of the arch- 
bishop, we met at Oxford. He has since embarked 
for America, with several letters of introduction 
from Mr. Webster ; his sister says, they have learned 
of his safe arrival there. 

I forgot to mention in its proper place, of our hav- 
ing also visited this morning "Fountains Hall," built 
in the time of Henry VIII, out of the ruins of the 
abbey. It is now occupied by the Rector, and the 
Steward of the Estates. It is about twenty yards 
west of the Abbey, and has some windows of an- 
tique stained glass, and old armorial bearings on its 
front. I have likewise gathered these further par- 
ticulars ; the whole length of the interior of the 
Abbey is 525 feet, it formerly covered thirteen acres 
of land, and the part which now remains covers 
about two acres. One sixth of the original portion 
of the establishment ! 

* From the Anglo-Saxon "Mynster," and the Latin "Monaste- 
rium." (H. S. P.) 



[ 307 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Lord de Grey, 1 and Lord Ripon 2 are the joint 
heirs of this extensive estate. 

September 11. Doncaster, Yorkshire. Notwith- 
standing the fine weather of yesterday, to-day, was 
again rainy and disagreeable. At 10 o'clock we sal- 
lied forth however, to the Minster, in a " noddy " (a 
sort of cab). On our arrival at the door the Cice- 
rone, whom Mr. Webster had engaged in our behalf, 
on his earlier visit there this morning, announced 
that the service, that invariably takes place, twice a 
day, had already commenced, and there could be no 
inspection of the Minster, until that was over. We 
therefore availed ourselves of the guide's proposal, 
and entered the church, and joined in the service, 
which I regret to say, was performed by the differ- 
ent officials, in a very hasty, and heartless manner. 
Others, apparently strangers like ourselves, were con- 
stantly entering, and departing, in a way, that I had 
thought, belonged to Catholic churches alone, on the 
Continent. This cathedral, with the exception of St. 
Peter's, at Rome, is the largest in the world. It is 
called "the Pride of Yorkshire and the Ornament 

1 Thomas Philip de Grey, Earl de Grey, 1781-1859 ; statesman. 
His name was originally Robinson, brother of Lord Ripon. 

2 Frederick John Robinson, Viscount Goderich, afterwards 1st 
Earl of Ripon, 1782-1859; statesman. 

[ 308 ] 



YORK MINSTER 



of England." It certainly is a magnificent pile, oc- 
cupying two centuries in building, and has stood 
for three centuries, since its completion. The whole 
church is 524 feet long, 223 in width. The windows 
of stained glass are all very superb, but the glory of 
the whole is the great East window, 75 feet high, 30 
feet nine inches broad ; each pane of glass is nearly 
a yard square. A stone gallery runs across, dividing 
the window into two parts ; the view from this gal- 
lery, is said to be very grand, with a vista of 500 feet 
terminated by the beautiful west window. The figures 
on the stained glass represent the creation, and vari- 
ous passages from the Old Testament. The organ 
screen is of carved stone, representing the ancient 
Kings of England, from William the Conqueror, to 
Henry VII's time. The cathedral consists of a nave, 
choir, a North, and a South transept, a "Ladye 
chapel," and two shrines, of which there were for- 
merly fourteen. Ten years ago, the choir, with the 
organ, and beautiful oak carving, was burned, and 
" nothing seen above," according to the words of the 
guide, " but the clouds of Heaven." This conflagra- 
tion was the work of an incendiary, 1 who was proved, 
on his trial, to have been insane. He was confined to 

1 Jonathan Martin, 1782-1838; incendiary. 
[ 309 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



the lunatic asylum, and is since dead. The immense 
organ, the largest in Great Britain, as in most other 
cathedrals, separates the choir from the nave. There 
were many tombs around the aisles, and also, behind 
the screen, in the " Ladye chapel." In one of the 
three chapels of the South side, were some curious 
relics, preserved in a closet, which were shown us by 
the guide. One of the most remarkable was a horn, 
which we were told, was given to the church, by 
Ulphus, son of Thoraldus, who governed in the west 
parts of Deira. In consequence of a difference be- 
tween his two sons, about the disposition of his estate 
after his death, he went to York, and taking the horn, 
" wherein, we are told, he was wont to drink, filled it 
with wine, and kneeling on his knees before the altar, 
bestowed upon God, and the blessed St. Peter, all 
his lands, tenements &c." This horn, made of an 
elephant's tooth, has passed since the Keformation, 
through various hands, but was restored in 1675, by 
Lord Fairfax, although how, or when, it came into 
his possession is unknown. We also saw a crosier 
given by Queen Catherine of Portugal, to her Con- 
fessor when he was Archbishop of York, in 1687 ; 
also, three silver chalices, and several rings, found 
under the church, beneath the old pavement; a 

[ 310 ] 



YORK MINSTER 



wooden head of Archbishop Rotkerham, who died of 
the plague, and his body was burned in effigy, this 
was found in his tomb ; likewise, a large bowl given 
by Archbishop Scrope, to the Cordwainers of York, 
in the year 1398. On its edge, is an inscription to 
this effect, that to all those who drink from that bowl 
is granted 40 days indulgence ! In the choir, was a 
chair of Saxon origin, said to be thirteen hundred 
years old ; in it, several Kings of England have been 
crowned, and the Guide, with no little pride boasted, 
that on Queen Victoria's visit to York, on the occa- 
sion of the last festival, he had seen her seated in that 
very chair. The choir so unfortunately burned, is 
now rebuilt, a faithful copy of the original, and all 
marks of the conflagration are effaced. The chapter 
house is very elegant, and striking, and is connected 
by a passage, to the northern end of the eastern aisle 
of the transept. Its shape is octagonal with seven 
very beautiful stained windows, the eighth one, being 
the door of entrance, over which, in former times, 
the twelve apostles were to be seen, in silver gilt. 
Henry VIII, it is said, abstracted them at the time 
of the Reformation. The tombs, were most of them, 
likewise ornamented with silver effigies, but these 
were taken by Cromwell, and his followers, the marks 

[ 311 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



alone, are there, proving the truth of the tale. The 
Communion service is said to have suffered the same 
fate, and a copper one to have been substituted in its 
place. In the chapter house, was an old, and curious 
inscription in Latin, on a pillar, amounting to this : 
that the building was " the chief of houses, as the 
rose was, of flowers." In the South transept, was a 
window, quite unique and beautiful, of mosaic pat- 
tern, resembling needle work, sometimes called the 
" five sisters," from an impression which prevails, 
that five maiden sisters first embroidered the pattern, 
each one a window, and this being presented to the 
church, it was afterward imitated in stained glass, in 
the manner now seen. In the crypt are the remains 
of the Norman architecture, once the foundation of 
a former cathedral, on the spot, which was burnt. 
Beneath this Norman architecture, within the last 
six years, among stones and rubbish, have been dis- 
covered some Saxon pillars, about six feet high, of a 
style of architecture precisely like that of Durham ; 
also, in another spot, was found, the remains of a 
Roman wall, of the " herring-bone style," which the 
Romans were known to have built ; and also, a Dru- 
idical altar in entire preservation, thus corroborating 
the tradition, handed down to posterity, that the 

[ 312 ] 



DONCASTER 



Romans built their church, upon the site of a Pagan 
altar. These discoveries have excited much attention, 
and speculation. 

Mr. Webster returned from " the Palace " at one 
o'clock, after a most agreeable, and delightful visit, 
bringing the kind regrets of the old Archbishop, and 
his two Daughters at our necessary absence. At one 
o'clock, notwithstanding the rain, which was profuse, 
we drove to this place, where we remain to-night. 
Here, on Monday, are to be some famous races, and 
we are urged to remain, but of course this is impos- 
sible. In this country they race on the turf, and 
never on the ground itself, as we do. Doncaster is 
on the river Don, the derivation is doubtless, Don- 
caster, " the camp on the river Don," caster mean- 
ing hi Latin, " camp." Lancaster and all names with 
a similar termination, having a similar derivation. 

September 12. Matlock, Derbyshire. We took 
our departure at seven o'clock this morning from 
Doncaster, and drove 14 miles to Rotherham. When 
within a mile of the place we discovered a breakage 
to the spring of our carriage; there being no coach- 
maker in the town, we were obliged to proceed six 
miles more, to Sheffield. In order to lighten our 
vehicle as much as possible, Mr. and Mrs. Webster 

C 313 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

followed, in a hired post-chaise. At Sheffield, we 
breakfasted, and discovering that the repairing of 
our accident, would occupy some hours, concluded 
to visit the manufactory of Rodgers & Sons. From 
some friend in New York, Mr. Webster had brought 
letters of introduction, enabling us to see, with 
greater facility and advantage, this extensive, and 
interesting establishment. The " Show-room " con- 
tained very beautiful specimens of cutlery, silver 
and plated-ware, pen-knives, with myriads of blades, 
and other similar, and curious implements, in glass 
cases, and turned on pivots, for better inspection. 
The plated, and silver-ware, was arranged around 
the room, as in shops, the articles being for sale, or 
orders received. Mr. Rodgers remarked, in reply to 
some enquiries, that very little, if any, of the real 
Sheffield plate, found its way to America ; that it 
was Birmingham almost entirely, and owing to its 
greater cheapness, it there found a better market. 
The whole process of making the plate, was after- 
ward explained, and the difference shown, between 
the two kinds. The foundation is copper upon which 
the silver is rolled, through the pressure of cylin- 
ders, causing it to adhere with such tenacity, that it 
never peels from it ; the articles are then made and 

C 314 ] 



SHEFFIELD PLATE AND CUTLERY 

stamped from this material, and polished for use by 
means of steel instruments rubbed in soap and water. 
The Birmingham plate is first stamped out of the 
copper and the silver plating added, after the uten- 
sil is made, of course, the former process, must be 
the most enduring, and this constitutes the differ- 
ence, between the two kinds of plated-ware. Women 
were occupied in polishing the plate, in the same 
manner, and with apparently the same steel instru- 
ments, that we saw in the china manufactory, at 
Worcester. Mr. Rodgers remarked, that none but fe- 
males, could succeed in polishing at all; the silver 
was undergoing that process by friction, with the 
palm of the hand and the rouge powder, the hands 
belonged to old women too ! The skin of the female 
hand it seems, answers a better purpose, than that 
of any other known animal. We entered the room 
where the ivory handles, for the knives are made, 
and likewise, the different apartments where the 
steel is tempered, polished, and the blades sharp- 
ened. In other rooms, were to be seen plated articles 
undergoing the various processes of soldering, frost- 
ing, engraving, and stamping. The visit was very 
satisfactory, and interesting, and Mr. Rodgers most 
civil, and obliging. 

[ 315 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

" Wentworth Hall " the seat of the Earl of Fitz- 
william, father-in-law of Viscountess Milton, is very 
near to Kotherham, as is " Wortley Hall " belong- 
ing to the Baron Wharncliffe. When in London, 
Mr. Webster had promised, both their obliging 
owners, that he would visit them, but the extreme 
haste with which we must now travel, forbids our 
following our natural inclinations, on this head. We 
regret the latter place the more, as Lord Wharn- 
cliffe, when he came to see us, in London, and to 
urge Mr. Webster to bring all our party to him 
during this month, mentioned that his son, Mr. 
Stuart- Wortley, and his wife, the Lady Georgiana, 
would also be with them, at this time. 

Sixteen miles from Sheffield is " Chatsworth 
House," the splendid seat of the Duke of Devon- 
shire. 1 Among my dreams of childhood, was the hope 
of one day, seeing this celebrated spot, but the reality 
far exceeded my expectations ! Crossing a bridge of 
stone, over the river Derwent, and entering a fine 
arched gateway, we saw the house before us, resem- 
bling, it is said, in style, the Continental palaces. A 
noble terrace extends the whole length of the build- 

1 William George Spencer Cavendish, 6th Duke of Devonshire, 
1790-1858 ; bibliophile and collector of coins. 

[ 316 ] 



CHATSWORTH HOUSE 



ing, with gardens extending down to the river, these 
are adorned with cascades, jets d'eau, and fine statu- 
ary, forming altogether, a scene, not easily to be 
effaced from the memory. The Duke, being now at 
Chatsworth, we saw but the state apartments ; they 
are celebrated for their oak carvings of game, and 
animals, most exquisitely wrought. The pictures in 
the gallery, although not numerous, were of the 
choicest description. Likewise a gallery of ancient 
drawings, was very attractive. The coronation chairs 
of William IV, and George III, are exhibited in the 
state apartments. The most splendid room of all, is 
the "gallery of statuary," containing some of the 
most exquisite specimens of the art, in Great Britain. 
This room communicates, with a dining-room, into 
which, we but peeped, as the table was there spread. 
Its furniture appeared to be of the most sjDlendid 
description. The Duke himself, entered the gallery 
of sculpture, while we were still there, which has- 
tened our departure from it. In consequence of his 
Grace's absence on the Continent (from which he 
has just returned), Mr. Webster had not the pleas- 
ure of making his acquaintance, during our visit in 
London, although, from Lord Morpeth, and other 
members of his family, we had received distinguished 

[ 317 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

civilities. He has hair, inclined to red, is about 48 
years of age, and although not so stout, resembles 
otherwise, in personal appearance, Colonel Preston * 
of our Senate. It would be useless, were I to make 
an attempt to describe the statuary of this apart- 
ment ; I was however, much struck with a " Bac- 
chante," a most exquisite thing, a female figure 
springing, "Petrarch's Laura," and the "Mother of 
Napoleon " by Canova ; the remembrance of these, 
among so many other attractive objects, is still fresh 
in my mind. Copies of two colossal lions, by Ca- 
nova, are on each side of a doorway, communicating 
with a spacious, and choice conservatory, on the cor- 
responding side, with the before-mentioned dining- 
room. This conservatory opens upon the fairy-like 
grounds with their fountains, and varieties of water- 
works, with a noble park beyond ; altogether a scene 
of stateliness, and grandeur, difficult to describe 
properly. In the Chapel for family worship, was a 
gallery for the Duke, below, on the ground-floor, 
were chairs, for the upper servants. The ceilings 
were handsomely frescoed, and the walls richly 
carved in oak. The entrance hall of Chatsworth, is 
spacious, and lofty ; the floor of mosaic marble. One 

1 William C. Preston, Senator from South Carolina. 
[ 318 ] 



CHATSWORTH HOUSE 



portion still undergoing the process of alteration, 
was quite filled, with cases of various sizes, and de- 
scriptions, containing the recent purchases of his 
Grace abroad, viz : antiquities, marbles, statues, and 
various other articles of vertu. 

A conservatory is now projecting, it is said, of 
such size, and height, as to admit the passage of a 
carriage and four, through its centre! Altogether, 
including the grounds, this noble domain even exceeds 
" royal Windsor," and its private apartments. I have 
omitted to speak of the park, which corresponds with 
the rest, in size, and magnificence. It is fifteen miles 
in extent, and is said to contain five thousand deer, 
of all varieties and ages. We noticed many of the 
red species, with large and splendid antlers, but the 
spotted, or fallow deer, appear to be, in all parks, 
the most numerous. The Duke's peculiar history* 

1 William Cavendish, 5th Duke of Devonshire, married, first, 
1774, Georgiana Spencer, 1757-1806, daughter of John, 1st Earl 
Spencer ; he married, secondly, Elizabeth, widow of John Thomas 
Foster, and daughter of Frederick Augustus Hervey, 4th Earl of 
Bristol. This latter, as Lady Elizabeth Foster, had long been the 
object of the Duke's avowed attachment, and it was said that she 
(and not the Duke's then wife) was, in 1790, the mother (exchange 
being made of two infants of different sexes) of his successor, Wil- 
liam George Spencer Cavendish. This latter was so proud of the 
name of Cavendish that he refused to marry and have issue, if there 
was any doubt as to his legitimacy. 

[ 319 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



is too well known, to make it necessary, for me to 
repeat it here ; but I could not forget, that all the 
treasures of this lordly mansion, were after all, prob- 
ably not legally his; he is said however to possess 
great good taste, liberality, and a great interest in 
the welfare, and prosperity of his tenantry, but do- 
mestic happiness with a wife, he is forbidden to enjoy, 
although the possessor of " the finest thing in the 
world." Next to Chatsworth, " Belvoir Castle " is 
thought to be the " finest thing " for a stranger to 

see. 

A drive of sixteen miles, brought us to this ro- 
mantic and beautiful spot (i.e. Matlock) ; the scenery 
is enchanting, the river Derwent meanders through 
a most romantic dale, skirted by high and lofty rocks, 
covered with wood, and verdure; the formation of 
these rocks reminds me of the Palisades of our North 
Eiver ; the effect is as grand, and even as sublime, 
as anything of the kind, I have seen. I regret that 
we cannot remain here to-morrow, visit some of the 
mines, and make ourselves better acquainted with 
so interesting a spot. There are baths here likewise, 
of some celebrity. Mr. Appleton left us at Sheffield, 
to meet again in London a week hence, soon after 
which, his marriage with Julia will take place, at St. 

[ 320 ] 



MATLOCK 



George's, Hanover Square, as privately as can be, 
under the circumstances. 

We leave here to-morrow morning for Leicester, 
where we hope to find our letters from America ; from 
thence, we go seven miles further, to " Wistow Hall," 
on a short visit, to Sir Henry Halford, who with 
his niece, will accompany us, on our long talked 
of visit, to Belvoir Castle, the seat of the Duke of 
Rutland. 1 

Saturday morning, September 14. Wistow Hall, 
at Sir Henry Halford's. We rose with the sun yes- 
terday morning at Matlock, in order to enjoy all that 
was possible in so short a time, of the beauties of 
its vicinity. At many houses, as well as at several 
shops, are great varieties of rich articles made from 
the Derbyshire spar for sale, from a mosaic paper 
weight to an inlaid table slab. Vases and " Cleopa- 
tra's needles " of all sizes, and values. Articles made 
of the choicest materials are however, very difficult, 
safely to transport ; some of our smaller purchases, 
having already proved this fact. The petrifying 
springs are objects of curiosity, where common arti- 
cles, such as hats, gloves, or even a hair wig, will, 
after having remained about ten months in the spring 
1 John Henry Manners, 5th Duke of Rutland, 1778-1857 . 
[ 321 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

water, become, by the constant dripping, and peculiar 
quality of their waters, petrified like stone, and 
equally heavy, but preserving otherwise, their shape 
and form. In one spring, we saw a pair of gloves be- 
longing to the Duchess of Portdale [sic], undergoing 
the process of petrifaction ; likewise a hair wig already 
very heavy, and petrified, from which the guide said, 
the present Queen had drunk ! We drove through a 
rich, and beautiful country to Leicester. On reach- 
ins; the " Three Crown Inn " the two nieces of Sir 
Henry, one of them his daughter-in-law * (having 
married her cousin), arrived in their chariot, at the 
door, " just out of church," as they told us, after an 
" Infirmary sermon," invariably preached, on the day 
following the races. The Duke, and Sir Henry were 
at the time, engaged, in examining " county records 
and accounts." His Grace, had been at " Wistow " 
during the races, in expectation of meeting our party 
there. We had been anxiously looked for, Miss 
Vaughan said, for three days past. Had not the un- 
foreseen accident to our carriage spring occurred, we 
should have reached Leicester yesterday, in season 
for the last day of the races, and for the ball, at its 

1 Barbara Vaughan, daughter of Sir John ; married, 1824, Sir 
Henry Halford, 2d Baronet. 

[ 322 ] 



WISTOW HALL 



close, where all the nobility and gentry of the neigh- 
boui'ing counties, were assembled. After a short 
interval, the Duke, and Sir Henry appeared, greeting 
us all very kindly. The Duke had only come to say, 
that he should depend on seeing us all, at the 
Castle with Sir Henry on Monday next. He was 
hastening now to " Belvoir," thirty miles, to dinner, 
where he had not been before for the space of ten 
months ! 

We followed Sir Henry, his daughter, and niece, 
through the continued rain, for the space of an hour, 
when we reached " Wistow," an extremely pretty 
place, with a small lake, near the house, fine old 
trees, with a park, in which some specimens of the 
famous Leicester sheep, were browsing. 

Sir Henry inherited this estate from his Uncle, 
changing his name, from that of Vaughan in conse- 
quence, and taking the title, with the estates. He 
is brother to Sir Charles Vaughan, the late H.B.M. 
Minister at Washington, and also, to Baron Vaughan, 
my Uncle Story's friend, and correspondent. It is a 
fine, spacious old house, with a large entrance hall, 
containing a billiard-room and a valuable organ on 
one side. The Library seems to be the favorite sitting 
room, and is a pleasant, oblong apartment full of liter- 

[ 323 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

ary treasures. Lady * and Sir William Heygate, 2 and a 
Mr. Dawson, high sheriff of the county, arrived soon 
after ourselves yesterday, at dinner, but they have left 
again this morning. The bed-room appropriated for 
my accommodation, and from which I am now 
writing, was occupied by King Charles I before the 
battle of Naseby. On the morning of that memorable 
and unfortunate day, he left at the house, his red velvet 
saddle, trappings, spurs, sword, guns, and other accou- 
trements; as he never returned there, these relics have 
remained in the family ; they are now in a glass case, 
behind two statues of " Venus and Paris," in another 
hall, communicating with the library, the dining- 
room and the drawing-room. Sir Henry is a physi- 
cian of the highest eminence, the author of several 
medical works, and was knighted by King George III, 
he was that Monarch's physician, as well as George 
IV's, William IV's, and to " all the Koyal family." 
At present he is but a consulting physician, and 
spends a large portion of his time, at "Wistow." 
He had just received a letter from the Duchess of 
Gloucester, consulting him on the subject of her 

1 Isabella Mackmurdo, daughter of Edward Longdon ; married, 
1821, Sir William Heygate. 

2 Sir William Heygate, Baronet, 1782-1844. 

[ 324 ] 



WISTOW HALL 



health ; it expressed friendship for him, and confi- 
dence in his skill. He says, the Duchess now, has 
the first indications of a disease, of which the Duke 
of York, the Queen, and George III, died. Sir Henry- 
is here surrounded, with relics of royalty, and with 
the most bountiful proofs of royal munificence, attach- 
ment, and gratitude. The silver centre-piece of the 
dinner table yesterday, as well as a superb shield, on 
the side-board, were gifts from Queen Charlotte to our 
host. A colossal sized, silver pitcher, richly chased, 
he has recently received from her Majesty the Queen 
Dowager. Miss Vaughan told us, that the superb 
golden tea and coffee service, on the breakfast table 
this morning, was also another valuable offering to 
Sir Henry from Queen Charlotte. 1 We afterwards 
saw a beautiful silver vase, from the Princess Sophia, 2 
and a golden spy-glass from the Duchess of Glouces- 
ter, given to her physician, immediately after the 
death of the Duke. 3 Then the tables of the drawing- 
room, are covered with golden boxes, and golden ink- 
stands, candle-sticks, tapers, and paper-knives, of the 
same precious metal ; these were gifts from different 

1 Sophia Charlotte, daughter of Charles Frederick, Duke of 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz ; married, 1761, George III; died, 1818. 

2 Princess Sophia, 1777-1848, daughter of George III. 
8 William Frederick, Duke of Gloucester, 1776-1834. 

[ 325 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

" high personages," to Sir Henry " for his consum- 
mate skill, during long and painful illnesses." In this 
same room is a glass case, under lock and key, resting 
on a side-table ; it is filled with numerous interest- 
ing relics, viz : the hair of Princess Amelia, 1 and of 
Edward, the son of Henry IV, when three years 
old. Likewise, a lock of the hair of Charles I. These 
are all preserved between two glasses. There were 
in addition, seals, gold pencil cases, boxes, medals, 
purses, " ad infinitum," beside a very long string of 
finger-rings, perhaps some forty or fifty, given by the 
family of deceased patients, at different times to Sir 
Henry ; many of these, possessed great intrinsic value, 
and were of cameos, intaglios, and enamel, and pre- 
cious stones. 

By far, the most interesting relic, however, I have 
yet to name. In the year 1813, Sir Henry Halford 
opened the vault of King Henry VIII and of Anne 
Boleyn, in the presence of the Prince Regent after- 
ward George IV, in order to ascertain what was, at 
that period, a subject of great doubt, whether the 
body of the unfortunate King Charles I was there 
interred, or elsewhere. He was, however, known to 
have been buried at Saint George's at Windsor, but 

1 Princess Amelia, 17S3-1S10, daughter of George III. 
[ 326 ] 



FINDING OF KING CHARLES'S HEAD 

the place of his interment when searched for, some 
years afterward, could not be found. It was discov- 
ered in a separate small vault, hitherto escaping ob- 
servation. The coffin was covered with a black velvet 
pall, a piece of which, Sir Henry exhibited to us, it 
being now, one hundred and ninety years since it 
was placed there ! On the top of the leaden coffin 
was satisfactorily discovered the following simple in- 
scription : "King Charles 1649." An opening was 
made through the lead and into the inner coffin, ex- 
hibiting the face, and head, covered with cerecloth, 
and separated from the body, just as Lord Claren- 
don in his works had described. One eye (Sir Henry 
told us), was open, but after a few moments exposure 
to the air, it closed. The cartilage of the nose was 
nearly gone, but the rest of the face, and features were 
so perfect, and so exactly according to Van Dyck, 
and other portraits of the unfortunate Monarch, that 
a doubt of his identity could not exist, for a moment, 
in the minds of any one present. On lifting up the 
head a piece of the vertebrae, the actual bone of the 
neck, through which the executioner's sharp instru- 
ment had passed, fell off, and was secured by Sir 
Henry. He showed it to us this morning, and like- 
wise a mass of lint, carefully enclosed in papers, that 

[ 327 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

he had used, to absorb the blood, that freely fell 
during this process ! The preservation was very re- 
markable, and the embalming most faithfully and 
thoroughly performed. Among Sir Henry's auto- 
graphs,* we read letters from several members of 
the Royal family to each other, letters from the 
Princess Amelia, and the Princess Mary, and from 
King George III, a few days only, before his death. 
Very many letters from the Royal family to Sir 
Henry himself, full of kindness, and confidence, but 
they were too numerous to particularize. 

In the Library, stands a very splendid clock of 
solid gold, in shape resembling a sort of shrine, sur- 
mounted with a bust of George IV, the drapery of 
which is set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. 
This was given to Sir Henry, by the united members 
of the Royal Family, having all their names, crests 
and initials below, with the date, &c, attached. In 
short, the house abounds with objects of interest, and 
Sir Henry takes pride and pleasure in gratifying his 
friends, with the exhibition of them. 

Our host is remarkably fond of his Whist, and 
the game was kept up, with spirit last evening. How 

* We also saw an autograph of Milton, he was blind at 44 years 
of age. (H. S. P.) 

[ 328 ] 



KANGAROOS AND AVIARY AT WISTOW 

much I wished for my dear Husband's presence, and 
assistance ! Sir Henry is no mean antagonist, and I 
regretted he had not a better partner than myself. 

We had some country neighbours at dinner, a Mr. 
and Mrs. and Miss King. 

Sunday, September 15. Wistow. We have been 
to church this morning in the chapel, belonging to 
the estate, and listened to an excellent sermon, with 
much satisfaction, from the Rev'd. Mr. Keppel. 
Afterward, on our return, the weather being less 
" pluvious," we walked with Miss Vaughan over the 
grounds, into the flower garden, conservatory, and 
aviary, and likewise visited the Kangaroos, the larg- 
est I ever saw ; they were merrily hopping, on their 
hind legs, in their peculiar way, and seem to be a 
favorite animal on all gentlemen's estates here. They 
have a portion of the grounds properly fenced for 
their accommodation, and they become quite tame 
after a time. There were two black swans on the 
lake ; these are rare, and costly birds, and seen by 
us, nowhere else, but at Hopetoun House. We were 
then told, that a pair of these birds, cost forty 
guineas in London ! There were also various other 
aquatic birds ; varieties of geese, and a pair of widg- 
eons, were enjoying a special little pond, fenced in, 

[ 329 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

for their accommodation. Sir Henry's x son is a mem- 
ber of parliament ; he with Mrs. Halford and family, 
live a half a mile distant, and dine daily with Sir 
Henry. She is a very pretty woman, was married at 
seventeen, and has a daughter fourteen years of age, 
who looks as old as her mother. 

Sir Henry's suite of apartments on one side of the 
house, consists of a handsome long dining-room with 
a large bay window, two drawing-rooms, and two 
smaller rooms beyond " en suite," the last, opens into 
a very fine, lofty conservatory, and this again, into 
a long and beautiful aviary, where there are gold 
and silver pheasants, and other choice birds. There 
are also fine "pineries" and " peacheries " ; the 
atmosphere of the former, is excessively hot, and the 
fruit very fine ; the peaches are generally inferior to 
ours in point oi flavour, but in size, and beauty, they 
are often superior. Miss Vaughan is not at all hand- 
some, but she is intelligent, and interesting, and is 
constantly exerting herself, for our comfort and 
amusement. 

Sunday Evening. Sir Henry is a devout, and good 
man. At nine o'clock, he assembled his servants, six- 
teen in number, including our own two, in his li- 
1 Sir Henry Halford, 2d Baronet, 1797-1868. 
[ 330 ] 



FAMILY WORSHIP 



brary, according to his usual custom ; he then knelt 
and read aloud the evening service, after which he 
finished with a sermon from Bishop Horsley ; the 
servants then retired, and our very satisfactory, and 
agreeable evening, closed with music, on the organ, 
played by " Miss Lizzie," 1 the eldest granddaughter. 
They have now left the house, and we have just re- 
tired to our rooms. The Duke of Rutland, I learn, 
has the same practise of family worship, with his 
servants, excepting when the Castle is filled with 
guests, then, he has both evening, and morning serv- 
ice in the chapel. Our post-horses are ordered at 
twelve for our drive to Belvoir to-morrow, which is 
thirty-five, to forty miles distant. 

Wednesday, September 18, 1839. Belvoir Castle. 
I find myself so much charmed with all I have seen 
here, so much magnificence and novel splendour, 
that in wishing to recount all, for the benefit of 
those I love, at home, I fear I shall forget every- 
thing ! Since my arrival here I have not had a mo- 
ment, up to this time, to " journalize." I have just 
returned from a drive, over the Duke's extensive 
estates, having never, during the time, been over any 
ground but his ! Although not the proper season of 
1 Elizabeth Barbara Halford, daughter of Sir Henry, 2d Baronet. 

[ 331 ] 



DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

the year for a Fox hunt, the Duke kindly ordered 
out the hounds, at ten o'clock, and we have been 
following in carriages, while the gentlemen, five or 
six in number, were eagerly pursuing the chase. 
Mr. Webster came near bringing home " the brush," 
but the poor fox " took to the ground," and he was 
disappointed. The whole scene was novel and excit- 
ing ; the hounds were one hundred and forty in 
number, each one, being as well known to the keep- 
ers, and answering to its name, obeying orders when 
given, as if it were endowed with reason and sense, 
as well as sagacity. Indeed I have been told that the 
" Belvoir " (pronounced Beaver) hounds hold a very 
'' high position " among the hunting establishments 
of England. They are of ancient pedigree, and are 
said to trace their origin to the year 1760. During 
thirteen weeks of a former hunting season, it ap- 
peared by the " Cook's books," " that upward of thir- 
teen thousand persons had dined under his Grace's 
roof at Belvoir Castle " ! The red dresses of the 
keepers, the beauty of the animals, and the pictur- 
esque landscape added to the novelty of the scene, 
made it one of the highest possible interest and ex- 
citement to me, and one that I shall never forget, 
but I must be less " discoursive," and endeavor to 

[ 332 ] 



BELVOIR CASTLE 



give some description of this lordly castle, and its 
interesting inmates. Mr. Webster drove hither in 
Sir Henry's chariot, Miss Vaughan taking Mr. 
Webster's vacant seat in ours. On our arrival we 
were shown at once to our apartments, and did not 
see the Duke or any of the inmates, but the serv- 
ants, until our toilettes were made, when the Chap- 
lain, the Rev'd. Mr. Thorreton, appeared at our 
doors, and announcing that dinner would soon be 
served, offered to show us the way to the dining- 
room, which I will shortly describe. After a prom- 
enade of at least ten minutes through various halls 
and galleries, we were ushered into a drawing-room 
contiguous to the dining-room, where we found the 
Duke, who received us with great kindness and cor- 
diality. Soon after, the Lady Adeliza Manners, 1 
the only unmarried daughter entered, accompanied 
by another lady, now a companion, and formerly 
governess to the children of his Grace. There were 
no introductions on either side, and had not Miss 
Vaughan been present, we should have been much 
puzzled to have ascertained who the two ladies were. 
The Lady Adeliza appeared to be extremely diffident, 

1 Adeliza Elizabeth Gertrude Manners, daughter of John Henry, 
5th Duke of Rutland. 



[ 333 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

and to make great efforts, so far to conquer her tim- 
idity, as to seat herself beside Mrs. Webster, and 
to enter into conversation. All this however, soon 
passed away, and we found her a most charming, 
and lady-like person, and, I really think, she appears 
to like us all, as well as we like her. Dinner was 
soon announced. The Duke handed in Mrs. Web- 
ster, placing her on his right, Lord George Man- 
ners, 1 the third son, and only one at home, at pres- 
ent, handed me, placing me on the left of his Grace. 
The Lady Adeliza was taken by Mr. Webster, and 
Julia by Mr. Thorreton, while to Edward's lot fell 
the governess, Miss Gooding. The dining-saloon is 
a very large and beautiful apartment, with immense 
mirrors at either end, increasing also its size, be- 
neath which, are sideboards, covered with magnifi- 
cent plate of gold and silver. The room has arches 
of white marble, where usually one sees woodwork, 
and it contains some very fine pictures. All the or- 
naments of the table were of gold (or silver gilt) ; 
the centre piece or epergne was four feet high, sur- 
rounded by gold candelabra, very striking and mag- 
nificent. Indeed to my unpractised eye, the display 
of both silver and gold plate, is almost marvellous. 

1 George John Manners, 1820-74. 
[ 334 ] 



THE DINING-ROOM AT BELVOIR 



On a table, inlaid with precious stones, and covered 
with what appeared to he a dazzling white damask 
cloth, was a silver cistern or oval punch bowl, holding 
about twenty gallons. This belonged to the Earl of 
Rutland, the ancestor of the present Duke ; he paid 
£600 for it. The Duke remarked, as we were admir- 
ing its beauty and size, that his Steward had the curi- 
osity recently to reckon the interest upon the original 
sum, up to the present moment, and that it amounted 
to two or three million pounds sterling ! On being 
requested to raise the white table cover before al- 
luded to, we attempted to do so, and found it a 
beautiful deception, carved out of the purest mar- 
ble ! Yesterday the table service was of solid silver, 
composed of many vases, richly frosted, with designs 
of marine shells, and aquatic plants. The saltcellars 
also, were composed of shells, and sea figures of 
frosted silver. At the time of the Christinas holi- 
days the castle is usually filled with guests. To-day, 
however, there are a few arrivals. Lady Caroline 
Norman, with her husband, and her single daughter 
and two sons, and Mr. Keppel the clergyman, have 
appeared. Sir Henry and Miss Vaughan, having a 
dinner engagement at Mr. King's, were obliged to 
leave, and to our regret, have just gone. 

[ 335 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



" Bel voir " is built on a high elevation, and com- 
mands a large extent of country. It overlooks five 
villages, the property of the Duke ; in these, he will 
not permit a single frame (i.e. of stockings), be- 
cause he believes, that a manufacturing village is 
less prosperous, and moral, than an agricultural one. 
The castle is very feudal-like, it is built of a yellow 
stone, quarried near by, and in its position, resembles 
"Windsor; the latter however, overlooks the town 
of Windsor, while Belvoir, has the advantage of a 
more picturesque country, for its surroundings. The 
interior is very spacious, and the castle itself more 
so, than any other, we have seen. Our bed-rooms 
are a suite, in the "Egyptian gallery"; it has re- 
quired several promenades, to familiarize ourselves 
with the intricacies of the various passages, leading 
to the distant breakfast- room, and pleasant sitting- 
parlour, where we assemble after breakfast is over. 

The entrance hall of the castle is adorned with 
full sized figures in gold, and steel armour, and the 
floor is of marble, in black and white mosaic. 

Since writing the above, we have been over the 
very numerous apartments of the castle from the 
state rooms, down to the kitchen, larder, and the 
Steward's and housekeeper's premises. 

[ 336 ] 



THE SALOON AT BELVOIK 



First " the Saloon," this is very richly furnished ; 
the ceilings are elaborately gilded, and beautifully 
frescoed ; portraits of the Duke, the late Duchess, 1 
and their children, are mingled agreeably, with these 
ornamental decorations. The walls are fluted in satin, 
and set into it, all around the room, four or five feet 
from the floor, are finely painted ivory miniatures of 
various family connections, both when adults, and as 
children. At the upper end of this gorgeous apart- 
ment, were full length portraits of the Duke and his 
Duchess, set in gilt frames, and resting on the floor 
like " cheval " or " Psyche " glasses ; the former, was 
represented in his robes of state. The Duchess was 
very celebrated for her beauty, she died very sud- 
denly at Belvoir, fourteen years ago. Miss Gooding, 
the governess, who occupied with myself one of the 
carriages at the Fox hunt, took the opportunity to 
give me, a long, and interesting account, of the dif- 
ferent members of the family, and of the melancholy 
death of her Grace. The Marquis of Granby, 2 the 
eldest son, is evidently the favorite in this case ; he 

1 Elizabeth Howard, daughter of Frederick, 5th Earl of Carlisle ; 
married, 1799, John Henry Manners, 5th Duke of Rutland ; died, 
1825. 

2 Charles Cecil John Manners, 1815-88, Marquis of Granby, later 
6th Duke of Rutland ; strong protectionist. 

[ 337 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

is now making a tour in Spain. The furniture of the 
saloon is of white and gold, and the walls are fluted 
in blue satin, and likewise, the coverings of the fur- 
niture and curtains are of blue. The mantel-piece 
was of salmon coloured marble richly sculptured, and 
on each side, were tables, inlaid with precious stones, 
representing fruit, &c. The "Picture gallery," has 
some valuable Murillos ; and Carlo Dolcis ; one or 
two beautiful subjects by Teniers ; a portrait of 
Henry VIII by Holbein, the best painting I have 
seen, of that artist, I think. In a picture by Mu- 
rillo, on the birth of our Saviour, was a head of a 
little boy, so like my little Willie 1 at home, that I 
could not draw my eyes away ! There were likewise 
some fine old Dutch pictures, and I have a very pretty 
water-coloured painting, done by the Lady Adeliza, 
copied from one in this gallery, called " Great cry 
and little wool " (a portion only), representing 
" Sheep Shearing " ; I shall take it to America among 
my many valuable mementos. A long gallery in a 
storey above, 140 feet, is called the " Regent's Gal- 
lery " ; it is a splendid apartment, and where the 
breakfast table is laid, when the Castle has many 

1 James William Paige, 1835-94, son of James William and 
Harriette Story (White). 

[ 338 ] 



THE REGENT'S GALLERY 



visitors; it contains some beautiful Gobelin, and 
many marble busts of distinguished people, and a 
very interesting one, of the late Duchess, showing 
her to be possessed of remarkable beauty. In a pleas- 
ant conversation last evening, upon various supersti- 
tions, and "beliefs in Ghosts and Goblins," the Lady 
Adeliza told us, that there were servants, in the 
house that could not but be persuaded, that at cer- 
tain periods, " a carriage and four horses, drove at 
midnight, up and down this long gallery," they had 
heard the sounds too distinctly, to doubt, that the 
place was haunted, for a single moment ! They had 
also declared, that the mailed figures of the great 
hall, had at the same time, changed places with each 
other ! ! There is also a long Library, and a drawing- 
room named the " Green room," beside two smaller 
drawing-rooms, communicating with the " breakfast- 
room," and the " luncheon-room " ; this is where we 
assemble, previous to luncheon, and to breakfast in 
the morning. On the same floor, is another entire 
suite, composed of a Saloon, two or three bed-rooms, 
and dressing-rooms, richly fitted, with every possible 
luxury, comfort and convenience. The Ball-room is 
still another fine apartment. In the " Egyptian gal- 
lery," around the hall, is a large ottoman where the 

[ 339 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

guests sit, after dinner, when the Band plays during 
the gay season at Bel voir. Last year, the Duke and 
Duchess of Cambridge, and the Princess Augusta 
were here, for some days, and three years ago, the 
Queen, when Princess Victoria, with her Mother, 
the Duchess of Kent, paid a visit to Belvoir. There 
are several pieces of cannon, on the batteries of the 
castle, that fire a Royal Salute, on all these great 
occasions. 

The kitchen, pastry-cook's room, and all of the 
culinary department, was in the nicest and neatest 
possible order. The starched linen caps, of the cooks, 
were like snow in whiteness. I observed a separate 
larder for hares, and rabbits, distinct from the other 
game, and was told, that these animals taint other 
game " directly they are put with them." Both lard- 
ers were circular, with the finest wire window-frames 
outside, and a covering of thin cotton inside, to ab- 
sorb the moisture. The dairy was extensive, the 
cheeses carefully, and neatly arranged in the second 
storey, and the room ventilated in a peculiar way, to 
preserve them properly. They used a jack, in the 
kitchen, with coal, as at Lowther castle. Both the 
House-keeper's and the Steward's rooms, were very 
nice, comfortable rooms, and in the former, were 

[ 340 ] 



THE GARDENS AT BELVOIR 

cabinets well filled with rich, and beautiful china. 
The store-room adjoining, was well filled, with jellies, 
sweetmeats, and a drawer full of " rock candy" of 
which we partook. 

The kitchen gardens are well worth seeing, sur- 
rounded by a wall fourteen feet high. They are about 
nine acres in extent, and on this wall are towers, of 
corresponding style with the architecture of the Cas- 
tle itself. Upon this wall were growing in full per- 
fection, figs, apricots, peaches, cherries, plums and 
pears. This garden is at the foot of the hill, upon 
which the Castle is built, and through the gateway, 
between the towers, " is reckoned " as the Lady Ad- 
eliza said, " one of the finest points of view, of the 
Castle." The green-house plants were fine, particu- 
larly the fuchsias, of which there were many choice 
varieties. Sixteen servants waited at dinner, and 
again, for the third time, was there a change of all 
the centre ornaments ! Instead of there being vases 
of silver, an immense candelabrum of the same, took 
their place, with smaller ones, on either side, and 
appropriate devices in silver below. This massive 
silver central candelabrum was a gift to this fam- 
ily, by subscription, from a set of gentlemen, con- 
nected with some political acts, I think ; I did not 

[ 341 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

— . , 

quite comprehend, and will not attempt further to 
explain, until I do. The Duke owns several other 
country places ; " Haddon hall " has a great celebrity, 
and is said to be a very fine old place (but we did 
not visit it) ; it remains precisely as it was, during 
the last century ; the antique furniture has been 
carefully preserved, and the deceased Duchess, took 
a great interest in the place, and it was owing to her, 
that it has not shared the fate of other antiquities, 
of its time. The Castle, in Mrs. RadclinVs " Mys- 
teries of Udolpho" is said to be a correct description 
of " Haddon " ; particularly the room, where the arras 
moves so mysteriously. We simply passed it how- 
ever, on our way from Chatsworth, in Derbyshire. 
" Chevely Park " in Cambridgeshire, and " Long- 
shaw," in Derbyshire, belong also to the Duke, the 
latter however, is but a hunting box. 

In a beautifully retired part of the grounds, in a 
spot chosen by the Duchess for her last resting place, 
through an avenue of venerable yew trees, stands a 
stone mausoleum of considerable size, erected by the 
Duke, to the memory of his wife. It is in admirable 
taste, and consists of a light, airy, cheerful looking 
apartment, about forty feet square, with a floor of 
marble mosaic, and a furnace, for keeping the atmos- 

[ 342 ] 



TOMB OF THE DUCHESS OP RUTLAND 

phere dry, when necessary. At the opposite end of 
this, is a large circular niche, lighted by violet col- 
oured glass windows from behind. In the centre is a 
large marble tomb, and hovering above it, is a mar- 
ble figure in drapery (an exact resemblance of the 
Duchess), in the act of ascending to heaven. In the 
clouds above, are the pure spirits of the four little 
children, already gone before her; with outstretched 
arms, they appear to be rapturously welcoming her, 
and the eldest of the group, is in the act of placing 
an immortal wreath, upon the maternal brow. The 
drapery of the background is of marble, and the 
effect of the coloured light, from the windows, upon 
this very beautiful and touching work of art, is finer, 
than anything, I have the power to describe. 

The following effusion, from the pen of Sir Henry 
Halford, on visiting this sacred, and lovely spot, was 
put into my hands, by its estimable author, before 
breakfast, on the morning of his quitting Bel voir. 

" Inscription for a Mausoleum 

" Stranger ! by curious contemplation led, 
Who'er thou art this solemn scene to tread, 
May no compunctious visitings annoy ! 
No unrepented sins thy peace destroy ! 
No passing day wound with a Parthian dart, 
But every hour fresh blessedness impart ; 

[ 343 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

Yet should some vice indulged without control 

Peril thy future bliss, enthral thy soul 

Oh ! go not hence, till thou hast sternly vow'd 

To sin no more, to thy Creator bow'd 

In contrite sorrow, and His aid iniplor'd 

Who died, that sinful man to God might be restored." 

Mr. Keppel the clergyman has composed some 
very pretty lines upon the name of " Halford," * 
which I much admired, and copied, but at this mo- 
ment I have not possession of them. At an early 
hour this morning the good man departed, leaving a 
kind note for me, and the following verses, on the 
name of our noble host, which " he took the liberty 
of offering to my acceptance." Of course, I shewed 
them to the Lady Adeliza, as through me, they were 
intended for her eyes, and those of his Grace. 

" Belvoir Castle, September 18, 1839. 
" Manners, some Bard has written, make the Man, 
A truth so true, deny it those who can, 



* Halford 
A bard whose great name will dwell on the tongue 
While memory lives, both of old, and of young, 
In his Mirth has so tortured a Christian name 
That 't would stagger a wit, to believe it the same. 
But if this wild nickname for my first you shall take, 
And then for my second, a search you shall make, 
In the same Bard's gay pages you '11 find it appear 
In the name of a Lady right merry and fair ; 
Put these both together, you '11 find very plain, 
A name standing high in fair Science's train. 

[ 344 ] 



THE DUKE'S FAMILY 



And hence 't will follow, if this truth we scan, 
That gentle manners make the gentleman. 
These both confinn'd, all will admit I trow, 
Who Noble Manners e'er have chanced to know." 

Lord John Manners, 1 the second son, is with his 
brother " in the midst of the seat of war " as the 
Duke remarked. The eldest daughter is the Lady 
Drummond, 2 the second, is the Lady Emmeline 
Stuart- Wortley, 3 the poetess, the third, is the Lady 
Jermyn, 4 the lady Adeliza being the youngest. The 
Duke and his Daughter, are very musical, the lat- 
ter is proficient on the piano-forte ; Caradori Al- 
lan was here on a visit, not long since, and they are 
on intimate terms with Mrs. Arkwright, 6 whose 
brother is at this moment erecting a very beautiful 
mansion, on his lands in this neighborhood ; he has 
a large fortune, and "on dit" that he wishes to 
marry the Duke's youngest daughter. Mrs. Ark- 

1 John James Robert Manners, 1818-1906, later 7th Duke of 
Rutland ; statesman. 

2 Elizabeth Frederica Manners ; married, 1821, Andrew Robert 
Drummond. 

8 Emmeline Charlotte Elizabeth Manners, 1806-55 ; poetess and 
authoress; married, 1831, the Honorable Charles Stuart- Wortley. 

* Katherine Isabella Manners; married, 1830, Frederick Wil- 
liam Hervey, Earl Jermyn, later 2d Marquis of Bristol. She died 
inlS48. 

6 Mrs. Robert Arkwright ; musical composer ; died, 1849. 

C 345 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

wright has composed some of the best English songs 
now in vogue, and is said withal, to be a very ami- 
able, and clever woman. 

In the Chapel at Bel voir, is a fine " Holy Family " 
by Murillo, over the altar; the interior is of stone 
like that of the Castle itself. The ground floor is 
reserved for the servants of the family, while the 
gallery, at one end above, is appropriated to the 
Duke's family, as is the case with the royal chapel, 
both in London, and at Windsor. 

Miss Vaughan had often visited Belvoir before, 
and had likewise been at many other distinguished 
country houses. She described to us the splendours 
she saw at " Woburn Abbey," the seat of the Duke 
of Bedford, 1 in the county of Bedford. In her bed- 
room the toilette cover was of the most delicate 
white muslin richly embroidered, lined with pink 
satin, and trimmed with superb Valenciennes lace; 
the counterpane was of the same material, trimmed 
with the same. The delicate linen sheets, and linen 
cambric pillow cases, were also full trimmed with 
lace. The utensils for lavation were very superb, 
and the whole furniture of corresponding elegance. 
Her maid's room was furnished with a sofa, " lolling 

1 John Russell, 1766-1839, 6th Duke of Bedford. 

C 346 ] 



AN AMUSING INCIDENT 



chair " &c, covered with handsome chintz ; the 
house-maid came to awake her in the morning, to 
make her fire, and bring warm water &c, before 
she herself went to awake and dress her mistress ! 
Miss Vaughan also related an amusing incident hap- 
pening to her Sister's maid during hers and Sir 
Henry Halford's visit at Bel voir, while the Duchess 
of Kent and the Princess Victoria were also there. 
Mrs. Halford on retiring for the night, found her 
maid in tears, and in great trouble. On enquiring 
into the cause of her grief, she learned that the 
poor girl had dressed herself as usual, in her clean 
lace cap, chintz gown and muslin collar, and on be- 
ing summoned to dinner, descended to the Servants' 
hall. On entering, she started back, in great trepi- 
dation, for from the scene there presented, she pre- 
sumed, she had entered by mistake, the apartment 
where the Duke and his guests were. They were the 
upper servants, but instead of their usual costume, 
their hair was full dressed, and they were in short 
sleeves ; many of them, in silk and satin gowns, gold 
chains, and watches ! This extra toilette was in com- 
pliment to the maids, and the " dressers," of the 
Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria. These 
people, servant-like, treated Mrs. Halford's unfor- 

[ 347 ] 



DANIEL. WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 

tunate maid with so much contempt, in her humble 
daily dress, that she left their presence, and took 
refuge in her mistress' apartments, where she found 
her, in the state, I have alluded to. Miss Vaughan 
however added, that some of the maids of the 
Duchess of Kent, being German, and Mrs. Halford's 
maid, being one of the same nation, they became 
afterward, very good friends, and the slighted lady's 
maid was in the end, consoled for their previous 
neglect. 

The stud of the Duke of Rutland is said to be 
very fine. He owns one hunter, a remarkably beau- 
tiful and powerful animal, for which he paid, five 
hundred guineas. 

Next week, there is to be a " bazaar " near Belvoir, 
for the benefit of the poor, "under the patronage 
of the Lady Adeliza, and Lady Caroline Norman," 
Lady Adeliza is embroidering a velvet smoking cap, 
with gold cord, and all the ladies of the family 
are similarly employed, in the manfacturing of vari- 
ous pretty, and tasteful articles for the occasion. 
The lady's maid brought to the Lady Adeliza's 
" sanctum," this morning, while we were there, in- 
specting those already prepared, a tray, covered with 
various woolen articles, very nicely and prettily knit 

[ 348 ] 



LEAVING BELVOIR 



by some of the Duke's dependants, in the village, and 
offered them to the Lady Adeliza for the bazaar. In 
anticipation of this sale, Mrs. Webster and myself, 
have made some purchases ; among them, is a very 
handsome " indispensable " of embroidered worsted 
and gold, quite a novelty in its way, which I shall 
take with me " to my ain hame," as a "token," for 
some of its dear inmates. 

To-morrow morning at an early hour, we are to 
leave Belvoir and all its attractions. I have been 
the Duke's partner at a game of whist, and suc- 
ceeded with his Grace's accomplished playing, in 
beating Mr. Webster, and the Lady Caroline Nor- 
man, our adversaries. We have already taken our 
leave, before retiring to our apartments for the night. 
The Duke and his Daughter were so kind, as to ex- 
press great regret, at our leaving, and urged a longer 
stay, but we have many reasons for wishing to be in 
London immediately, and although we are now 120 
miles distant, we hope to. reach there by six, to- 
morrow evening. 

Thursday, September 20. London. We passed 
through Melton Mowbray, the great fox-hunting 
country, on our return from Belvoir on Tuesday eve- 
ning, and likewise remarked a very pretty hunting 

[ 349 ] 



DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND 



box, the property of Lord Wilton, 1 the son of the 
Marquis of Westminster. We were much amused at 
the sight of a "horse fair" at Waltham, and met 
hundreds of these animals, on their way to the bus- 
tling scene. At the " Rugby Station," we met " the 
rail," and putting our carriage on the train, we soon 
came in sight of this glorious city, with all its appen- 
dages of smoke and dirt, and all its associations of 
gayety, life, and enjoyment. London is very quiet, 
and forms a striking contrast to the extreme gayety 
of last July and August. 

Julia and Mr. Appleton are to be married on 
Tuesday morning, at half past eleven o'clock at St. 
George's, Hanover Square ; the Dean of Carlisle 2 is 
absent from town, and the ceremony will therefore 
be performed by the Rev'd. Philip Scofield. Invita- 
tions to be present, have been issued to about thirty 
friends. After the ceremony, and the dejeuner, the 
happy pair will leave, on a visit of a few days, for 
Cambridge, and return to town on Wednesday to 
meet a party of friends at a late dinner. The bride 

1 Thomas Egerton, 2d Earl of Wilton, 1799-18S2 ; assumed the 
name of Egerton in 1821 in lieu of that of Grosvenor. He was the 
second son of the Marquis of Westminster. 

2 Robert Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle. 

[ 350 ] 



INVITATION TO EDGEWORTHSTO WN 

insists on my taking the third seat in " the carriage 
and four," and of course, I cannot refuse to do so. 

On the following Sunday (we regret the day, but 
it is unavoidable), we are to embark for the Conti- 
nent, at the " Tower Stairs," in the Antwerp Steamer. 
We go up the Rhine, visit Switzerland, and at Ge- 
neva we are to leave Edward in the care of Mons. 
Bort, for the space of nine months ; from thence we 
go to Paris, where Mr. Webster promises to meet us, 
as we are to leave him at present in England. 

Mr. Webster has received last night, a very flatter- 
ing, as well as kind letter, from Miss Maria Edge- 
worth. She urges him in the strongest manner, to 
come to visit her at Edgeworthstown, assuring him 
that "his talents are well known and appreciated 
there, and that she should be greatly flattered, to be 
allowed the pleasure of welcoming him to Ireland." 
I need not say, what a gratification this would be to 
all, but we shall not have the time to go over to 
Ireland. Indeed Mr. Webster begins to fear, that 
Congress will have assembled many weeks, before 
he will be enabled to take his seat again in the 
American Senate at Washington. 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Abbotsford, 284-289. 

Abbott, Rev. Jacob, books, 75, 

and note. 
Aberdour, Lord, 277, and note. 
Abinger, Baron, 59, and note, 

149, note. 
Achray, Loch, 262. 
Acland, Sir Thomas Dyke, 66, 

and note, 126, 160. 
Adelaide, Queen, 55, and note, 

166; benevolence, 103. 
Ailesbury, Countess of, 178, and 

note. 
Ailesbury, Earl of, 178, note. 
Alcester, 181. 
Alderson, Sir Edward Hall, 80, 

and note; dinner with, 80-81. 
Alderson, James, 83, note. 
Alderson, Lady, 80. 
Alexander, Mr., 93. 
Alexander, James, 59, note. 
Alford, Viscount, 296, and note. 
Allan, Caradori, 345. 
Allen, Mr., 164. 
Almacks, ball at, 107-108. 
Aln Bridge, 296. 
Amelia, Princess, 326, and note. 
Amory, Mrs., 45. 
Anglesey, Marquis of, 83, note; 

description of, 35, and note. 
Appleton, Samuel Appleton, 3, 

note, 208, 209, and note, 216, 

218, 243, 247, 299, 320, 350. 
Apsley House, 152-157; concert 

at, 164-166. 
Archibald, George, 24, 63. 
Archibald, Mrs. George, 24, 63. 
Ardcheanochrochan, 257, 262. 
Argout, Comte d', 146, and note. 



Arkwright, Mrs. Robert, 345, 

and note. 
Armstrong, Mr., 158, 162. 
Arran, Earl of, 69, note. 
Ashburton, Baron, 22, 23, and 

note, 149, note. 
Ashburton, Baroness, 149, and 

note. 
Ashley, Lady, description of, 

102, and note. 
Ashley, Lord, 131, 176; descrip- 
tion of, 102, and note. 
Augusta, Princess, 31, and note, 

104, 144, 158, 176, 340. 
Aust, 187. 
Austin, Miss, 88; description of, 

84. 
Austin, Charles, 39, and note. 
Austin, John, 84, and note, 150, 

151. 
Austin, Mrs. John, 58, 88, 167; 

description of, 84, and note. 
Ayr, 245. 

Babbage, Charles, 11, and note, 

25, 54; luncheon with, 12. 
Baden, Grand Duke of, 48, note. 
Baden, Princess Mary of, 48, 

note. 
Bagot, Baron, 151, and note. 
Bagot, Sir Charles, 37, and note, 

77, 166. 
Bagot, Lady, 37, and note, 151, 

166. 
Barberini Vase, description of, 

20. 
Barclay, William Anthony, 7. 
Bardell v. Pickwick, 65, note. 
Baring, Miss, 54. 



[ 355 ] 



INDEX 



Baring, Lady Harriet, 91, and 
note. 

Baring, Sir Thomas, 54, and 
note. 

Baring, William Bingham, 22, 
and note, 91, note. 

Bates, J. Douglas, 170. 

Bates, Mrs. J. Douglas, 170. 

Bates, Joshua, 9, and note, 17, 
21, 24, 27, 53, 55. 

Bates, Mrs. Joshua, 9, and note, 
17, 21, 24, 40, 53, 55, 74, 98, 
150, 160, 166, 169; concert 
postponed, 68, 82; concert, 90. 

Bates, William Rufus Gray, 169, 
and note. 

Bath, 187-189. 

Beaconsfield, 118. 

Beauchamp, Countess, 147, and 
note. 

Beauchamp, Earl, 147, note. 

Beaufort, Duke of, 140, note, 
144, note, 194. 

Beaumaris, 203, 205. 

Beaumont, Mrs., 67, 150. 

Beckett, Lady Anne, 91, 148, 
and note, 221. 

Beckett, Henry, 220, note, 221. 

Beckett, Sir John, 148, note, 221, 
and note. 

Beckford, William, 172, and note, 
243, note. 

Bede, Venerable, 298, 300. 

Bedford, Duke of, 346, and note. 

Belfast, Lord, 179, and note. 

Belhaven and Stenton, Baron, 
170, note. 

Belhaven and Stenton, Baron- 
ess, 170, and note. 

Bel voir Castle, 331-349. 

Bentinck, Lady Frederick Cav- 
endish, 148, and note, 163, 
218, 219, 222-224, 227, 230- 
232. 

Bentinck, Lord Frederick Cav- 
endish, 148, note. 



Beresford, Mr., 296. 

Berkeley, Earl of, history, 219, 

and note. 
Berkeley, John, 159, note. 
Berkeley, Thomas Moreton Fitz- 

Hardinge, 219, and note. 
Berkeley, William FitzHard- 

inge, 219, and note. 
Berry, Agnes, 84, and note. 
Berry, Mary, 84, and note. 
Berry, Robert, 84, note. 
Biddulph, Robert, 200, note. * 
Bingham, Anne Louisa, 23, note. 
Bingham, William, 149, note, 189. 
Blake, Mr., 67. 
Blake, Joseph, 164, note. 
Blenheim, 122-123. 
Blessington, Countess of, 95, and 

note, 158; description of, 96. 
Blessington, Earl of, 96, note. 
Boott, Mrs., 170. 
Boott, Mrs. Dr., 170. 
Bort, Monsieur, 351. 
Bowdoin, Temple, Jr., 116. 
Bower, Johnny, 290, 291. 
Bowles, Charles, 215, note. 
Bowness, 208. 
Braganza, Duchess of, 158. 
Brett, Mr., 103. 
Bristol, 189. 

Bristol, Earl of, 319, note. 
British Museum, 17-21. 
Bronson, Mrs., 42. 
Brougham, Eleanor Louisa, 101; 

description of, 100. 
Brougham and Vaux, Baron, 85, 

89, 146, 161; description of, 

61, and note; party at, 100. 
Brougham and Vaux, Baroness, 

158, 161, and note; description 

of, 101. 
Brownlow, Earl, 296, note. 
Bruce, James, 148, and note. 
Brunei, Sir Marc Isambard, 

72, and note. 
Brunsden, Charles, 155, note. 



[ 356 ] 



INDEX 



Brunswick, Duke of, descrip- 
tion of, 63, and note. 

Bryant, Elizabeth, 66, and note. 

Bryant, John, 66, note. 

Buckland, William, 126, and 
note. 

Buggin, Sir George, 69, note. 

Buller, Charles, 99, and note, 
115, 147. 

Bulwer, Lady, 107, and note. 

Bulwer-Lytton, Edward George 
Earle Lytton, 151, 161; de- 
scription of, 96, and note. 

Burdett, Miss, 163. 

Burdett, Sir Francis, 13, and 
note, 87, note, 110, note, 165, 
170, note. 

Burdett, Lady, 170, and note. 

Burdett-Coutts, Angela Geor- 
gina, 13, and note, 74, 83, 87, 
89, 106, 148, 150, 163, 165, 
173, 174, 276; luncheon with, 
103; dinner with, 110-112; 
description of, 112. 

Burghersh, Lady, 36, and note, 
37, 155. 

Burghersh, Lord, 36, and note, 
37, 155, 156, 160, 161, 164, 
220-223; his singing, 224. 

Burke, Edmund, 118, and note. 

Burney, Charles, 19, and note. 

Burns, Captain, 291. 

Burton, 209. 

Butler, Samuel, 197, and note. 

Byron, Lord, 23, note. 

Byron, Hon. Augusta Ada, 23, 
and note. 

Cadell, Robert, 281, and note. 

Callander, 263. 

Cambridge, Duchesa of, 31, 

and note, 104, 144, 158, 165, 

167, 172, 176, 340. 
Cambridge, Duke of, 31, note, 

104, and note, 144, 158, 195, 

172, 176, 340. 



Campbell, Baron, 149, note. 
Campbell, Sir James, 149, note. 
Campbell, Walter Frederick, 

170, note. 
Canizzaro, Duchess of, 160. 
Canning, Lady, 59, and note. 
Canning, Sir Stratford, 59, and 

note, 66, 75. 
Canterbury, Archbishop of, 171, 

and note. 
Capel-Curig, 199. 
Capua, Prince of, 236, 236, note. 
Caractacu6, Hill of, 197. 
Carlisle, 234, 235. 
Carlisle, Dean of, 350, and note. 
Carlisle, Earl of, 34, note, 337, 

note. 
Carrington, Lord, 108, note. 
Carroll, Charles, 56, and note. 
Cary, George, 74, note. 
Castlereagh, Viscount, 105, and 

note. 
Caton, Richard, 55, note. 
Chandos House, concert at, 

104-105. 
Chantrey, Sir Francis Legatt, 

13, and note; anecdote of, 79. 
Chantrey, Lady, 12. 
Chapel Royal, 55. 
Charles I, coffin opened, 326- 

328. 
Charleville, Dowager Countess 

of, 175, and note. 
Charleville, Earl of, 175, note. 
Charlotte, Princess, monument 

to, 136, and note. 
Charlotte, Queen, 325, and note. 
Chartist disturbances, 229, 277- 
Chase, Mrs., 42. 
Chatsworth House, 316-320. 
Chatterton, Lady, 69, and note, 

160, 171. 
Chatterton, Sir William Abra- 
ham, 69, and note, 160, 171. 
Cheltenham, 187. 
Chepstow, 191. 



[ 357 ] 



INDEX 



Chester, 7. 

Cheveley, or the Man of Honour, 

107, note. 
Chinese children, 102. 
Chirk Castle, 200. 
Chiswick, Horticultural exhi- 
bition, 24. 
Christ Church College, 121. 
Cistercian monks, 302. 
Clark, Sir James, 91, and note. 
Clark, Lady, 91. 
Clarke, Charles John, 178, note. 
Clarke-Jervoise, Sir Samuel, 73, 

note. 
Clay, William, 23, and note, 107, 

112. 
Clay, Mrs. William, 107, 113, 

115, 116. 
Clements, Lord, 159, and note. 
Clifford, Sir Augustus William 

James, 147, and note. 
Clifton, 190. 

Clonmell, Earl of, 147, note. 
Clubhouses, 90. 
Clyde, Falls of, 239. 
Cockburn, Henry Thomas, 281, 

note. 
Cockle, Miss, 50, 102. 
Codman, Mrs. Charles Russell, 

280, and note. 
Coke of Norfolk, 34, note. 
Colburn, Lord, 281, and note. 
Cole, Mary, 21G, note. 
Coleridge, Mr., 139; description 

of, 138. 
Coleridge, Hartley, 10, and 

note, 81, and note; descrip- 
tion of, 11. 
Coleridge, Sir John Taylor, 80, 

and note. 
Coltman, Lady, 83; description 

of, 81. 
Coltman, Sir Thomas, 81, and 

note. 
Colville, Mr., 45, 60, 108. 
Copley, Miss, 93. 



Copley, John Singleton, 37, note. 

Corbin, Mr., 95. 

Cork and Orrery, Dowager 

Countess of, description of, 

88, and note, 152. 
Cork and Orrery, Earl of, 88, note. 
Cornhill, 283, 293. 
Cottenham, Earl of, 143, and 

note. 
Courtenay, Mr., 149. 
Coutts, Miss, see Burdett- 

Coutts. 
Coutts, Thomas, 13, note, 170, 

note. 
Covent Garden Theatre, 73, 112. 
Coventry, 181. 
Cowell, Mr., 16. 
Cowell, Mrs., 16. 
Cowper, Earl, 102. 
Crow Castle, 200. 
Cryder, Mr., 9. 
Cryder, Mrs., 9. 
Curterss, Mr., 90. 
Curwen, Mr., 212. 

Dalbiac, Gen. Sir James Charles, 
292, note. 

Dalmahoy, 272-279. 

Dalton, John, Jr., 74, note. 

Daly, Mr., 158, 160. 

Darlington, 298. 

Davis, Mrs. Isaac P., 190. 

Davy, Sir Humphry, 12, and 
note. 

Davy, Lady Jane, 12, and note. 

Dawson, Mr., 324. 

Dawson, Thomas Townley, 175, 
note. 

Decies, Baron, 250, note. 

Denison, Mr., 75. 

Denison, Mrs., 45, 148. 

Denison, Miss, 67, 68, 149, 150. 

Denison, Lady Charlotte, 161, 
and note. 

Denison, John Evelyn, his kind- 
ness, 161, and note. 



[ 358 ] 



INDEX 



Denman, Baron, 37, and note, 

85; description of, 93. 
Denman, Baroness, 37, and note. 
Derby, Mrs., 24. 
Derby, Earl of, 6, and note. 
Derwentwater, 215. 
Devon, Countess of, 149, and 

note. 
Devon, Earl of, 149, and note. 
Devonshire, Duke of, 316, and 

note, 317; description of, 318; 

history of, 319, and note. 
Dick, Quentin, concert at, 160. 
Dickens, Charles, 13, and note; 

description of, 14. 
Dinorben, Baron, 164, and note. 
Disraeli, Benjamin, 83, and note; 

description of, 147. 
Doncaster, 308, 313. 
Doria Pamphilj Landi, Prince, 

33, note. 
Doria Pamphilj Landi, Princess, 

33, and note, 44. 
Douglas, Marquis of, 243; de- 
scription of, 48, and note, 172; 

rumour about, 242. 
Douglas, Lady Ellen Susan 

Anne, 277, and note. 
Douglas, George, 273, and note. 
Douglas, Lady Gertrude, de- 
scription of, 278. 
Douglas, Lady Isabella Ellen, 

58, and note. 
Douglas, Lady Katherine Jane, 

58, and note. 
Douglas, William, 273, note. 
Douro, Marchioness of, 56; dress 

at Queen's drawing-room, 44, 

and note. 
Douro, Marquis of, 44, note. 
Downshire, Marquis of, 164, 

note. 
Drummond, Andrew Robert, 

345, note. 
Drummond, Lady, 345, and note. 
Dryburgh Abbey, 292. 



Dulcken, Louise, 90, and note. 

Dumbarton, 258. 

Duncannon, Viscount, 162, and 

note, 199. 
Dundas, Mr., 45, 125. 
Durham Cathedral, 297. 
Durham, Countess of, 83, and 

note, 85. 
Durham, Earl of, 35, and note, 

83, 99; description of, 85. 

Eaton Hall, 8. 

Eden, Thomas, 161, note. 

Edgeworth, Maria, 54, and note, 
139; letter to Webster, 351. 

Edinburgh, 264, 266-282. 

Edinburgh Castle, 271-272. 

Eglinton Castle, 245, 247. 

Eglinton, Earl of, 94, and note, 
172, 244, 250, 255, 256, 264; 
description of, 251. 

Eglinton tournament, 222, 234, 
247-256; practice for, 94-95; 
ball at, 275. 

Ellenborough, Earl of, 149, and 
note. 

Ellice, Mrs., 85. 

Ellice, Edward, 69, and note, 
143, 147; dinner with, 84-86; 
letter from, 281. 

Elssler, Fanny, 167; description 
of, 157, and note. 

Elssler, There se, 167; descrip- 
tion of, 158, and note. 

Empson, Mr., 281. 

Empson, Mrs., 280. 

Endymion, 247, note. 

Erne, Earl of, 36, note. 

Esterhazy von Galantha, Prince, 
104 ; description of , 33 , and note. 

Eton College, 138-142. 

Eton Mon tern, description of , 139. 

Everett, Edward, 166, and note. 

Exeter, Bishop of, 149; descrip- 
tion of, 80, and note. 

Exeter, Marquis of, 158, and note. 



[ 359 ] 



INDEX 



Fane, Mr., 159. 

Fane, Lady Cecily Jane Georgi- 

ana, 36, and note, 100, 104, 

106, 107, 147, 148, 151, 152, 

155, 157-161, 172, 173, 175; 

letter from, 216, 267. 
Fayrer, Captain, 3. 
Fazakerley, Mr., 83. 
Fazakerley, Mrs., 83. 
Fazio, 206, and note. 
Fielding, Anthony Vandyke 

Copley, 110, and note. 
Fitzroy, Mrs., 150. 
Fitzwilliam, Earl, 143, and note, 

279, 316. 
Fletcher, Grace, see Webster. 
Fleurs Castle, 292. 
Floyd, Sir John, 65, note. 
Fonblanque, Albany, 151, note. 
Fonblanque, Mrs. Albany, 151. 
Forbes, Viscount, 172, note. 
Forbes, Viscountess, 172, and 

note, 173, 176, 177. 
Foster, Lady Elizabeth, 319, 

note. 
Foster, John Thomas, 319, note. 
Fountains Abbey, 300-305. 
Fountains Hall, 307. 
Fox, Colonel, 164. 
Fox, Mrs., 164. 
Fox hunt, 332. 
Fullerton, Mr., 281. 
Fullerton, Lord, 281, and note. 
Funeral, description of, 169. 

Galway, Viscount, 88, note. 

Garcia, Michelle Ferdinande 
Pauline, 21, and note; descrip- 
tion of, 160. 

Garter, story of the, 137. 

George III, 43, note, 104, note, 
136, note, 325, note, 326, note. 

Gibson, Mr., 7, 247. 

Gibson-Craig, Sir James, 272, 
and note. 

Glasgow, 240, 243, 244, 246. 



Glendower oak, 199. 

Glenelg, Baron, description of, 
87, and note. 

Glenlyon, Lord, 249, and note. 

Gloucester, 186, 187. 

Gloucester, Duchess of, 43, and 
note, 165, 324. 

Gloucester, Duke of, 43, note, 
325, and note. 

Goldsmith, Lewis, 37, note. 

Goldsmith's Hall, 70-71. 

Goodall, Joseph, 141, and note, 
142. 

Gooding, Miss, 333, 334, 337. 

Gordon, Duke of, 147, note, 279. 

Gordon, Sir William, 84, 88. 

Graham, Sir James Robert 
George, 149, and note. 

Graham, Lady, 149, and note. 

Granby, Marquis of, 337, and 
note. 

Grant, Patrick, 66, note. 

Grasmere, Lake, 213. 

Gray, Samuel Calley, 68, note. 

Gray, Mrs. Samuel Calley, 68, 
and note. 

Gray, William Rufus, 169, note. 

Green, Mrs., 45. 

Greenalgh, James, 39, note. 

Greta Hall, 215. 

Gretna Green, 235. 

Grey, Earl, 45, and note, 69, 
note, 83, note. 111, 293; de- 
scription of, 85. 

Grey, Lady Georgiana, 85, 92, 
112. 

Grey, Hannah Alethea, 69, note. 

Grey, Earl de, 308, and note. 

Grisi, Giulia, 21, a?id note, 38, 
105, 157, 160, 164; descrip- 
tion of, 91; illness, 167. 

Grosvenor, Lord, 80. 

Grote, George, dinner with, 38, 
and note. 

Grote, Mrs. George, 74 ; descrip- 
tion of, 38, and note. 



[ 360 ] 



INDEX 



Guest, Lady Charlotte, 164; 

description of, 105, and note. 
Guest, Sir Josiah John, 105, and 

note, 164. 
Guthrie, Mr., description of, 

17. 
Guthrie, Mrs., 17. 

Haddington, Countess of, 272, 

278, 282; description of, 76, 

and note. 
Haddington, Earl of, 76, and 

note. 
Haddon Hall, 342. 
Halford, Elizabeth Barbara, 

331, and note. 
Halford, Sir Henry, 92, and note, 

321-324, 326-330, 333, 335, 

347; dinner with, 147; poem 

by, 343 ; verses about, 344. 
Halford, Henry, Jr., 322, note, 

330, and note. 
Halford, Mrs. Henry, Jr., 322, 

and note; description of, 330; 

maid's experience, 347. 
Hallam, Henry, 12, and note. 
Hamilton Castle, 240-242. 
Hamilton, Mr., 122, 124. 
Hamilton, Duchess of, 243, and 

note. 
Hamilton, Duke of, 240, 243, 

and note. 
Hamilton, Emma, 20, note. 
Hamilton, Sir William, 20, and 

note. 
Hammond, Mrs., 45. 
Hampstead Heath, 87. 
Hampton Court, 113-115. 
Handley, Mr., 125. 
Hanky, Mr., 17. 
Hanky, Mrs., 17. 
Hanky, Mrs. Alexander, 170. 
Harcourt, Miss, 306. 
Hardwicke, Earl of, 220, note. 
Harewood, Earl of, 162, note. 
Hargreaves, John, 59, note. 



Harness, Rev., 50, 106, 107, 110, 

171; suitor of Miss Burdett- 

Coutts, 276. 
Harper's Ferry, 199. 
Harrington, Earl of, 163, note. 
Harrowby, Earl of, 37, note, 74. 
Hastings, Marchioness of, 245. 
Hastings, Marquis of, 68, note. 
Hastings, Lady Flora, see Raw- 
don-Hastings. 
Hastings, Warren, 63, and note. 
Hawkins, Dr., 148. 
Hawkins, Mrs., 148. 
Hawtrey, Miss, 138, 139, 141. 
Hawtrey, Edward Craven, 138, 

and note, 140; description of, 

139. 
Head, Colonel, 89, 90. 
Helvellyn, 214. 

Henry, Lieut. Bernard, 190, note. 
Henry, Mrs. Bernard, 190, and 

note. 
Hereford, 195. 
Hereford Cathedral, 196. 
Hesse-Cassel, Landgrave of, 31, 

note. 
Heth, Colonel, 74, 80. 
Heygate, Lady, 324, and note. 
Heygate, Sir William, 324, and 

note. 
Hill, Lady, 164, and note. 
Hill, Lord Arthur Marcus Cecil, 

164, and note. 
Holland, Baron, 150, and note, 

164, 170; description of, 171. 
Holland, Baroness, 150, and note, 

164; description of, 170. 
Holyrood palace, 268-271. 
Hope, John, 272, and note, 282, 

298. 
Hopetoun, Countess of, 252, 

and note, 273; description of, 

274. 
Hopetoun, Earl of, 252, note, 

274, and note. 
Hopetoun House, 273-275. 



[ 361 ] 



INDEX 



Horton, Sir Robert John Wilmot, 

66, and note, 67. 
Hudson, Jeffery, 114, and note. 
Hughes, Christopher, 17, and 

note. 
Humfrey, Mr., 6. 
Humfrey, Mrs., 6. 
Hunter, Captain, 229. 
Huskisson, William, 6, and note. 
Hyllier, Mr., 218, 219, 223. 

Ilchester, Earl of, 65, note. 
Ingestre, Viscount, 296, and 

note. 
Inglis, Bishop, 64, and note. 
Inglis, Sir Robert Harry, 38, and 

note, 160; breakfast with, 66. 
Inns of Court, visited, 168. 
Inversnaid, 259. 
Iremonger, Rev. Lascelles, 69, 

note. 
Ivanhoff , Nicholas, 90, and note. 

Jackson, Dr., 220. 
Jackson, Dr. David, 190, note. 
Jaudon, Samuel, 9, and note, 12. 
Jaudon, Mrs. Samuel, 9, 12, 42; 

dinner with, 16. 
Jeffrey, Francis, 279, and note, 

281; description of, 280. 
Jeffrey, Mrs. Francis, 279, 281; 

description of, 280. 
Jenkinson, Lady Louisa, 74, and 

note, 107. 
Jermyn, Countess, 345, and note. 
Jermyn, Earl, 345, note. 
Jersey, Countess of, 36, 107; 

description of, 106, and note. 
Jersey, Earl of, 106, note. 
Jervis, Mary Anne, 105, and note, 

164, 170; description of, 162. 
Joliffe, Mr., 145. 
Jones, Captain, 26, 103, 145. 
Jones-Loyd, Mr., 145. 
Joy, Henry Hall, 39, and note, 

148, 151. 



Joy, Mrs. Henry Hall, 39, and 

note, 148. 
Joy, John Benjamin, 39, note. 
Joy, Mrs. John Benjamin, 39, 

note. 

Katrine, Loch, 260. 

Kean, Charles John, 103, and 
note, 106, 151. 

Kelso, 292. 

Kemble, Charles, 206, note. 

Kemble, Fanny, 206, and note. 

Kemble, John, 298. 

Kemble, Stephen, 298. 

Kenilworth, 182-183. 

Kensal Green cemetery, 169. 

Kent, Duchess of, 43, 68, note, 
340; description of, 32, and 
note. 

Kent, Duke of, 25, note, 32, note. 

Kenyon, Edward, 145. 

Kenyon, John, 13, 17, 26, 90, 
103, 125-129, 134, 151, 173, 
174; breakfast with, 10, and 
note; description of, 122; din- 
ner with, 145. 

Keppel, Rev., 329, 335; verses 
by, 344. 

Kerr, Miss, 172. 

Kerr, Mrs. Charles, 170. 

Kerrison, Gen. Sir Edward, 101, 
note. 

Keswick, 211, 214. 

Kilmarnock, 244, 246, 256, 257. 

King, Mr., 329, 335. 

King, Mrs., 329. 

King, Miss, 329. 

Kingston, Duke of, 75, note. 

Knowsley Park, 6-7. 

Kyrle, John, 196, and note. 

Lablache, Luigi, 22, andnote, 161. 

Labouchere, Henry, 54, and note. 

Lamb, Sir Charles Montolieu, 
172, and note, 245-247; cos- 
tume at tournament, 252. 



[ 362 ] 



INDEX 



Lambton, Lady Mary Louisa, 
83, and note, 85. 

Lamie-Murray, Mr., 64. 

Lamie-Murray, Mrs., 64. 

Lanark, 237. 

Landon, Letitia Elizabeth, 126, 
and note ; death, 127. 

Langham, Mr., 150. 

Langham, Miss, 110. 

Langham, Sir James, 110, note. 

Langham, Lady, 110, and note. 

Lansdowne House, concert at, 
64. 

Lansdowne, Marchioness of, 65, 
and note, 74. 

Lansdowne, Marquis of, 27, 35, 
and note, 65, note, 109, 143. 

Lawrence, Miss, 300. 

Leamington, 183. 

Leicester, Earl of, 34, and note. 

Le Roy, Caroline, see Webster. 

Le Roy, Jacob, 3, note. 

Leslie, Charles Robert, 156, and 
note. 

Leven, River, 258. 

Lewin, Harriet, see Mrs. George 
Grote. 

Lindsey, Earl of, 105, note. 

Linwood, Mary, needlework, 
109, and note. 

Liverpool, 6, 207; docks, 5; 
cemetery, 5. 

Liverpool, Earl of, 74, and note, 
107. 

Liverpool, steamer, 3. 

Llangollen, 200. 

Locke, Mr., 143. 

Lockerbie, 229, 236. 

Lockhart, John Gibson, 12, and 
note, 67, 80-83, 150, 151, 237, 
239, 240, 289, 289, note; de- 
scription of, 50, 240; break- 
fast with, 101-102. 

Lockhart, Mrs. John Gibson, 
description of, 289, and note. 

Lockhart, Johnny, 289. 



Lockhart, William, 238; descrip- 
tion of, 240. 

Lomond, Loch, 258. 

London, Bishop of, 83, and note. 

Londonderry, Marchioness of, 
252; description of, 33, and 
note. ' • 

Londonderry, Marquis of, 33, 
note, 146. 

Lonsdale, Countess of, 232, and 
note. 

Lonsdale, Earl of, 148, note, 163, 
and note, 216, 218, 221, 223, 
225-229, 233, 243, 244; de- 
scription of, 232. 

Lords, House of, 60-62, 146- 
147. 

Lovelace, Countess of, 23, and 
note, 37, 88. 

Lovelace, Earl of, 23, and note, 
37, 87, 166. 

Low, Miss, 42. 

Lowther Castle, 215, 217-233; 
dinner at, 221; breakfast at, 
222; bedrooms, 225; offices, 
230, 231; servants, 233. 

Lowther, Lord, 218, and note. 

Lowther, Col. Henry Cecil, 220, 
and note, 229. 

Ludlow, 197. 

Ludlow Castle, 196. 

Lushington, Mr., 143. 

Lyndhurst, Baron, 37, and note, 
53, 61, 98, 149, 156, note; his 
speaking, 62. 

Lyndhurst, Baroness, 37, and 
note, 53, 93, 98. 

Lyndhurst, Baroness (first) , 
155, and note ; portrait of, 156. 

Macaulay, Thomas Babington, 
99; description of, 76, and 
note. 

Macclesfield, Earl of, 76, note. 

Macdonald, Miss, 253, 273; de- 
scription of, 274. 



[ 363 J 



INDEX 



Macdonald, Baron, 252, note. 

MacDougall, Sir Duncan, 63, 
and note. 

Maclvor, Fergus, 235, and note. 

McKinnon, Mrs., 170. 

Mackmurdo, Edward Longdon, 
324, note. 

Maclean, George, 126, note. 

Macready, William Charles, 72, 
and note, 112; in Henry V, 
72-73. 

Magdalen College, 119-120. 

Mahon, Viscount, 101, and note, 
102. 

Mahon, Viscountess, 101, and 
note. 

Manners, Lady Adeliza Eliza- 
beth Gertrude, 334, 338, 339, 
341, 344, 345, 348, 349; de- 
scription of, 333, and note. 

Manners, Lord George John, 
334, and note. 

Manners, Lord John James 
Robert, 345, and note. 

Manners, Russell, 74, note. 

Mansfield, Mrs., 67, 73, 91. 

Mansfield, Miss, 67. 

Mansion House, 72. 

Mario, Giuseppe, 21, and note; 
description of, 22. 

Marlborough, Duke (first) of, 
122, and note. 

Marlborough, Duke of, descrip- 
tion of, 123, and note. 

Martin, Jonathan, 309, and note. 

Mary, Princess, description of, 
172, and note. 

Maryatt, Mrs., 86. 

Maryborough, Lord, 36, note, 
37, note, 155. 

Mason, William, 189, and note. 

Mason, Mrs. William, epitaph 
on, 189. 

Matlock, 313, 320, 321. 

Maxse, Lady Caroline, 218, and 
note, 219, 222, 227. 



Maxse, James, 218, note, 219, 

and note, 222. 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Duke of, 

325, note. 
Meerty, Mademoiselle, 90. 
Melbourne, Viscount, 65, note, 

146, 180; description of, 35, 

and note ; his speaking, 62. 
Mellon, Matthew, 13, note. 
Melrose Abbey, 284-291. 
Melton Lockhart, 237-240. 
Melton Mowbray, 349. 
Melville, Viscount, 63, and note. 
Menai bridge, 205. 
Meredith, Mr., 160. 
Meredith, Miss, 110, 173. 
Metcalfe, Sir Charles The- 

ophilus, 143, and note, 164. 
Milman, Henry Hart, 88, 96, 

102, 171, 205, 206; breakfast 

with, 49, and note. 
Milman, Mrs. Henry Hart, 88, 

102, 171, 205, 206; description 

of, 49. 
Milnes, Richard Monckton, 10, 

11, and note, 88, 247, 257; 

breakfast with, 59; descrip- 
tion of, 59. 
Milton, Viscount, 279, note. 
Milton, Viscountess, 279, and 

note, 316. 
Milton, John, autograph of, 

78. 
Mitchell, Mr., 158. 
Mitchell, Miss, 158. 
Mitford, George, description of, 

129. 
Mitford, Mary Russell, 127, 

and note, 129; description of, 

128. 
Molesworth, Sir William, 39, 

and note. 
Monckton, Robert, 88, and note. 
Monmouth, 191, 195. 
Montagu, Edward Wortley, 75, 

note. 



[ 364 ] 



INDEX 



Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 

74, and note. 
Montgomerie, Lady, 252, and 

note, 256. 
Montgomerie, Lord, 252, note. 
Montrose, Duchess of, descrip- 
tion of, 250. and note. 
Montrose, Duke of, 250, and 

note, 259. 
Moore, Thomas, 12, and note. 
Morier, James Justinian, 66, 

note. 
Morpeth, Viscount, 37, and note, 

53, 143, 317. 
Morrison, James, 171, and note. 
Morton, Countess of, 173, and 

note, 268, 272, 273, 276, 278, 

279, 292. 
Morton, Earl of, 173, and note, 

267, 268, 273, note, 277, 279; 

description of, 272. 
Mossbank, Mr., 110. 
Mossbank, Miss, 110. 
Mostyn, Sir Edward, 164, and 

note. 
Mulgrave, Earl of, 178, and note. 
Murray, Miss, 42. 
Murray, Sir Charles Augustus, 

25, and note, 55, 76, 79, 167, 

176, 177. 
Myddleton, Richard, 200, note. 
Myddleton-Biddulph, Robert, 

203, and note. 
Myddleton-Biddulph, Mrs. Rob- 
ert, 200, and note. 

Napoleon III, 48, note. 
Necker, Mme. Albertine Adri- 

enne de Saussure, 75, and note. 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 297. 
New College, 121. 
Newton, Sir William John, 75, 

and note, 259; his studio, 80. 
Nollekens, Joseph, 226, and note. 
Norman, Lady Caroline, 335, 

348, 349. 



Normanby, Marchioness of, 36, 

and note, 166, 167, 177. 
Normanby, Marquis of, 36, and 

note, 64, 91, 108, 166. 
Northallerton, 297, 299. 
Northumberland, Duke of, 297. 
Northumberland, Earl of, 304, 

note. 
Norton, Hon. George Chappie, 

65, note. 
Norton, Hon. Mrs., 66, 151; 

description of, 65, and note. 

O'Connell, Daniel, description 
of, 99, and note. 

Ogden, F. B., 80, note. 

Ogden, Mrs. F. B., portrait of, 
80. 

Ogilvie, Mr., 26. 

Ogle, Sir Charles, 74, note. 

Ogle, Lady, 74, and note. 

Opie, Amelia, 83, and note, 91. 

Opie, John, 83, note. 

Orsay, Comte d', 144; descrip- 
tion of, 96, and note. 

Oswestry, 196, 198. 

Otway-Cave, Robert, 87, and 
note. 

Otway-Cave, Mrs. Robert, 87, 
and note. 

Oude, Prince of, 151, and note, 
152. 

Owen, Mr., 147. 

Paige, Harriette Story, dress of, 

at Queen's ball, 28; at Queen's 

drawing-room, 41 ; at Queen's 

party, 178. 
Paige, James William, 23, and 

note. 
Paige, James William, Jr., 338, 

and note. 
Palmerston, Viscount, 37, and 

note, 85, 180. 
Panizzi, Sir Anthony, 18, and 

note, 145. 



[ 365 ] 



INDEX 



Parke, Sir James, 45, and note, 

61, 67, 70, 73, 147, 150. 
Parke, Lady, 45, 67, 70, 73, 91, 

149, 150. 
Parke, Miss, 91. 
Parker, Thomas, 304. 
Patterson, Robert, 55, note. 
Peel, Lady, 65, and note. 
Peel, Miss, description of, 65, 

166. 
Peel, Sir Robert, description of, 

65, and note, 165. 
Pennant, Mr., 204. 
Penrith, 216, 234. 
Pepys, Sir Lucas, 149, note. 
Perceval, Spencer, 62, and note; 

bust of, 226. 
Percy, Sir Henry (Hotspur), 

304, and note. 
Persiani, Mme. Fanni, 21, and 

note, 95, 167; description of , 90. 
Perth, Lord, 261, note. 
Petre, Mrs., description of, 106, 

158. 
Phillips, Mr., 60, 88. 
Phillips, Henry, 112, and note. 
Philopson, Mr., epitaph by, 211. 
Pleydell-Bouverie, Lady Emily, 

83, 150. 
Pollock, Rev. Dr., 74, note. 
Polytechnic School, 67. 
Porter, Jane, 83; description of, 

54, and note. 
Portland, Duke of, 161, note. 
Portman, Baron, 162, note. 
Portman, Baroness, 162, and 

note, 163. 
Potter, Philip Cipriani Hambly, 

112, and note. 
Power, Edmund, 95, note. 
Powerscourt, Viscount, 36, and 

note, 61, 89, note, 147. 
Powerscourt, Viscountess, 89, 

and note. 
Powis, Earl of, 198, and note. 
Pratt, William, 103. 



Preston, William C, 318, and 

note. 
Prussia, Prince Adalbert of, 158, 

note. 
Puget, James, 54, note. 
Purdie, Thomas, 288. 

Quatre Bras, 147, note. 
Queen's College, 121. 

Radnor, Countess of, 83, and 

note, 150. 
Radnor, Earl of, 83, note, 143, 

and note. 
Radstock, Baron, 54, and note. 
Radstock, Baroness, 54, and 

note. 
Raglan Castle, 194-195. 
Ravensworth, Baron, 36, note. 
Rawdon-Hastings, Lady Flora 

Elizabeth, 91, note, 163, 245; 

illness, 68, and note, 82; 

death, 93. 
Reform bill, Webster's remarks 

on, 202-203. 
Richmond, Dowager Duchess of, 

150; description of, 147, and 

note. 
Richmond, Duchess of, 83, and 

note, 173. 
Richmond, Duke of, 83, note, 

147, note. 
Ripon, Earl of, 308, and note. 
Robinson, Mrs. Morris, death, 

216. 
Roden, Earl of, 89, note, 146, 

and note. 
Rodgers, Mr., 314, 315. 
Rodgers and Son, 314. 
Rogers, Samuel, 10, and note, 

160, 163, 164, 175; descrip- 
tion of, 11, 79; breakfast 

with, 76-79; party at, 162. 
Rogers, Sarah, 11, 12, 77, 91, 

150, 151, 170, 171; breakfast 

with, 98; description of, 98. 



[ 366 ] 



INDEX 



Rolfe, Sir Robert Monsey, 281, 

and note. 
Rolfe, Sir William, 27. 
Rose, Sir George Henry, 173, 

note, 279. 
Ross, Lady Mary, 239. 
Rouse-Broughton, Sir Charles 

William, 92, note. 
Roxburgh Castle, 292, 293. 
Roxburghe, Duchess of, 292, 

and note. 
Roxburghe, Duke of, 292, and 

note. 
Rubini, Giovanni Battista, 22, 

and note, 161, 164. 
Rundell and Bridge, 57. 
Rush, Benjamin, 175, and note. 
Russell, Earl, 143, and note. 
Rutherfurd, Lord, 143, and 

note, 281. 
Rutland, Duchess of, 337, and 

note, 339, 342; mausoleum to, 

342-343. 
Rutland, Duke of, 321, and 

note, 322, 323, 331-337, 342, 

345, 348, 349; verses about, 

344. 
Rydal Mount, 212. 

St. Albans, Duchess of, 13, and 

note. 
St. Albans, Duke of, 13, note, 

150, and note. 
St. John, Baron, 92, note. 
St. John, Baroness, 92, and note. 
St. John-Mildmay, Sir Henry 

Paulet, 83, note. 
St. Paul's Cathedral, 57; service 

at, 97. 
St. Paul's Chapel, 74. 
St. Vincent, Viscount, 105, and 

note, 162. 
Salisbury, Bishop of, 45, and 

note, 68. 
Sandwich, Earl of, 91, note. 
Sargent, Henry, 11, and note. 



Saussure, H. B6n§dict de, 75, note. 
Saussure, Mme. de, see Necker. 
Saxe-Coburg, Duke of, 136, 

note. 
Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, Duke of, 

32, note. 
Saxe-Meiningen, Duke of, 55, 

note. 
Saxe-Weimar, Duke of, 177, 

and note. 
Saye and Sele, Baron, 164, and 

note. 
Scarlett, Sir James Yorke, 59, 

and note. 
Scarlett, Mrs. James Yorke, 59, 

and note. 
Scofield, Rev. Philip, 350. 
Scotch Antiquities, Museum 0$, 

266. 
Scotch women, 283. 
Scott, Anne, description of, 289, 

and note. 
Scott, Charlotte Sophia, see 

Mrs. John Gibson Lockhart. 
Scott, Sir Walter, 12, note, 239, 

284-292; anecdote of, 276. 
Scott, Sir Walter (Jr.), de- 
scription of, 286. 
Sedgwick, Catherine Maria, 99, 

and note, 111. 
Selkirk, Countess of, 58, and 

note. 
Selkirk, Earl of, dinner with, 58, 

and note. 
Senior, Nassau William, 22, and 

note, 58, 104, 143, 145, 146, 

149; dinner with, 87. 
Senior, Mrs. Nassau William, 

22, 39, 87, 149. 
Seymer, Henry Ker, 45, note. 
Seymer, Louisa Maria, 45, and 

note. 
Seymour, Lady, 66, 100, 108, 

178, 251; description of, 65, 

and note, 95; dress at tourna- 
ment, 250. 



[ 367 ] 



INDEX 



Seymour, Lord, 65, note. 
Shallow Fall, 202. 
Shee, Sir Martin Archer, opin- 
ion of Webster, 111, and note. 
Sheffield, 313, 314. 
Sheffield plate, description of, 

314, 315. 
Shelburne, Earl of, 23, and note. 
Shelley, Sir John, 146, and note. 
Shelley, Lady, 74, 146, and note, 

160. 
Sheridan, Mr., 151. 
Sheridan, Thomas, 65, note. 
Shrewsbury, 197. 
Shrewsbury, Earl of, 33, note. 
Singleton, Mr., 48. 
Singleton, Richard, 48, note. 
Skelmersdale, Baron, 83, note. 
Smith, John Abel, 73, note, 91, 

and note. 
Smith, Mrs. John Abel, 73, and 

note, 91. 
Smith, Rev. Sydney, 54, and 

note, 57, 83, 99; tea with, 56; 

sermon by, 97. 
Smith, Mrs. Sydney, 83, 149; 

description of , 57. 
Smyth, Grice Blakeney, 236, 

note. 
Smyth, Penelope, 236, and note. 
Smyth, William, 56, and note. 
Snowdon, 202. 
Somerset, Lady Augusta, 144, 

and note. 
Somerset, Lady GranvilleCharles 

Henry, 108, and note, 172. 
Somerset, Lord Granville 

Charles Henry, 108, note. 
Sophia, Princess, 325, arid note. 
Southey, Robert, 215; his health, 

213, and note. 
Southey, Mrs. Robert, 215, and 

note. 
Southwell, Viscount, 159, note. 
Southwell, Viscountess, 159, and 

note. 



Spencer, Earl, 122, and note, 124, 

319, note. 
Spencer, Georgiana, 319, note. 
Spring-Rice, Thomas, 66, and 

note. 
Stanley, Lady, 83, and note. 
Stanley, Lord, 6, and note, 83. 
Stepney, Lady, 74, and note, 159; 

called Lady Stepastray, 107; 

party at, 151. 
Stepney, Sir Thomas, 74, note. 
Stevenson, Andrew, 13, and note, 

24, 29, 48, 48 note. 
Stevenson, Mrs. Andrew, 24, 

29, 30, 39, 40, 43, 48, 68, 86, 

166; dress at Queen's drawing- 
room, 41; at home, 69. 
Stewart, Mr., 277. 
Stewart, Mrs., 115. 
Stirling, 263. 
Stirling Castle, 263. 
Stockton, Captain, 26, 72, 74. 
Story, Eliza, 68, note. 
Story, Joseph, 75, and note, 92; 

description of, 226. 
Stow and Mortimer, 27, 64. 
Stratford-on-Avon, 184-186. 
Strathedon, Baroness, 149, and 

note. 
Stuart, Mr., 143. 
Stuart, Mrs., 265. 
Stuart de Rothsay, Baron, 220, 

note. 
Stuart de Rothsay, Baroness, 

220, and note, 222, 225, 227, 

229. 
Stuart de Rothsay, Louisa, 

220, and note, 222-224, 227, 

229. 
Stuart-Wortley, Hon. Charles, 

345, note. 
Stuart-Wortley, Lady Emme- 

line, 345, and note. 
Stuart-Wortley, Lady Georgi- 
ana, 37, and note, 74, 93, 316; 

description of, 75. 



[ 368 ] 



INDEX 



Stuart-Wortley, John, 36, and 
note, 37, note, 93, 316; descrip- 
tion of, 75. 

Sturgis, William, 9, note. 

Sullivan, John Turner Sargent, 
48, note, 172. 

Sussex, Duke of, 29, and note, 
69, note, 164; description of, 
69. 

Sutherland, Duchess of, 178; 
description of, 34, and note. 

Sutherland, Duke of, 34, note. 

Taglioni, Marie Sophie, 95, 157; 

description of, 22, and note. 
Talfourd, Sir Thomas Noon, 93, 

and note. 
Tamburini, Antonio, 21, and 

note. 
Tankerville, Earl of, 297. 
Tappan, Sewall, 74. 
Tavistock, Marchioness of, 163, 

and note. 
Tavistock, Marquis of, 163, 

note. 
Taylor, Sir Henry, 50, and note, 

84, note. 
Territt, William, 172, note. 
Thomas, Col. Charles, 156, note. 
Thompson, Miss, 220, 222, 224, 

227, 232. 
Thorold, Sir John Hayford, 74, 

note. 
Thorreton, Rev., 333, 334. 
Thurwell, Mr., 50. 
Ticknor, George, 10, and note. 
Tintern Abbey, 192-193. 
Tisdall, James, 175, note. 
Tollemache, Hon. Charles, 178, 

note. 
Tower of London, 14-16. 
Trenton Falls, 202. 
Trossachs, 261. 
Tullwell Lodge, 112-117. 
Tweeddale, Marquis of, 44, 

note. 



Ullswater, 223. 

Underwood, Lady Cecilia Leti- 

tia, 69, and note, 164. 
Uxbridge, Earl of, 179, and note. 

Van Buren, Abraham, 48, and 
note, 70. 

Van Buren, Mrs. Abraham, 48, 
and note, 70. 

Van de Weyer, Sylvain, 21, and 
note, 166. 

Van de Weyer, Mrs. Sylvain, 21, 
and note, 160. 

Vane, Lord Harry George, 158, 
and note. 

Vane-Tempest, Sir Henry, 33, 
note. 

Vassall, Richard, 150, note. 

Vaughan, Mr., 151. 

Vaughan, Miss, 93, 148, 322, 
325, 329, 333, 335, 346, 347; 
description of, 330. 

Vaughan, Sir Charles Richard, 
69, and note, 92, 93, 146, 148, 
323. 

Vaughan, Sir John, 60, and note, 
322, note, 323; dinner with, 92; 
remarks on Joseph Story, 92. 

Vaughan, Thomas Nugent, 172, 
note, 177, and note. 

Vauxhall, 174-175. 

Vernon-Harcourt, Egerton, 125i 
and note, 126, 307. 

Vevers, Rev. Richard, 37, note. 

Viardot, M., 21, note. 

Victoria, Queen, 35, note, 104, 
144, 158, 243, 340; invitation 
to ball, 25, and note ; ball, 28- 
36; description of, 29, 30; 
Mrs. Paige presented to, 31; 
drawing-room, 40-45; dress at 
Westminster fete, 47; danc- 
ing, 48; remarks to Webster, 
64; need of gaiety, 82; amuse- 
ments, 167; party, 175-180; 
dress, 178; Webster's opinion 



[ 369 ] 



INDEX 



of, 179; will of her own, 180; 

dancing, 180; rumour about, 

242. 
Virginia Hot Springs, 188. 
Virginia Water, 142. 
Voyage to England, 3-5. 

Wallace, Sarah, 13. 

Waller, Edmund, 118, and note. 

Walpole, Horace, 84, note. 

Waltham, 350. 

Warwick Castle, 183. 

Warwick, Earl of, 183. 

Waterford, Marquis of, 220, 
note, 293, and note, 295, 296. 

Watson, John, 10. 

Watson, Rev. John L., 97, and 
note. 

Waverley, 235, note. 

Webb, Colonel, 72. 

Webster, Daniel, 3, 13, 27, 56, 
60, 72, 80, 82, 85, 89, 93, 96- 
99, 104, 106, 108, 110-112, 
116, 119, 122, 125, 128, 129, 
139, 141-143, 145-147, 149- 
153, 159-163, 166, 171, 173, 
176, 187, 195, 196, 199, 200, 
207, 210-212, 215, 216, 219, 
225, 227, 235, 243, 244, 246, 
255, 256, 262, 267, 268, 282, 
298, 304, 306-308, 313, 314, 
316, 317, 333, 334, 349; visits 
British Museum, 18; dress at 
Queen's ball, 28; attends 
Levee, 64 ; travels "en prince," 
118; at Agricultural dinner, 
124; speech, 126; dines at Hol- 
land House, 164; introduced to 
Royal family, 165; opinion of 
Queen, 179; writes name at 
Shakspeare's birthplace, 185; 
takes wood from Shakspeare 
pew, 186; remarks on Reform 
bill, 202; gift from Lord Lons- 
dale, 232; opinion on English 



332; letter from Maria Edge- 
worth, 351. 

Webster, Mrs. Daniel (Grace 
Fletcher), 3, note, 116, note, 
216, note. 

Webster, Mrs. Daniel (Caroline 
Le Roy), 3, and note, 13, 30, 
43, 60, 62, 89, 96, 99, 106, 108, 
116, 125, 149, 150, 153, 158, 
162, 173, 179, 195, 212, 221, 
223, 226, 227, 232, 262, 313, 
334, 349; macaw bites hat, 27; 
dress at Queen's ball, 28; dress 
at Queen's drawing-room, 40; 
exhausted, 104; ill, 147, 151; 
introduced to Royal family, 
165; dress at Queen's party, 
178. 

Webster, Daniel Fletcher, 116, 
and note, 289. 

Webster, Mrs. Daniel Fletcher, 
116, and note. 

Webster, Edward, 216, and note, 
243, 247, 262, 334, 351. 

Webster, Grace, 116, and note. 

Webster, Julia, 3, and note, 13, 
30, 40, 55, 58, 74, 89, 96, 99, 
104, 106, 107, 116, 149, 150- 
152, 173-175, 177, 187, 195- 
197, 208, 211, 212, 223, 227, 
229, 262, 296, 320, 334, 350; 
dress at Queen's ball, 28; at 
panorama of Malta, 166; 
dances in Royal quadrille, 
178; dress, 178. 

Wedderburn-Colvile, James, 58, 
note. 

Wellesley, Marchioness, 55, and 
note; description of, 56. 

Wellesley, Marquis, 55, note. 

Wellington, Duke of, 44, and 
note, 56, 146, 164, 165, 174, 
264; description of, 61, 152- 
157. 

Welsh women, 201. 



climate, 299; fox hunting, I West, Benjamin, 114, and note. 

[ 370 J 



INDEX 



Westminster Abbey, 50-53. 
Westminster Hall, 62. 
Westminster, Marchioness of, 

36, and note, 47. 
Westminster, Marquis of, 8, 

and note, 35, 36, note, 350; 

fete at, 46-49. 
Westmoreland, Earl of, 36, note, 

106, note, 148, and note, 232, 

note; dinner with, 158; de- 
scription of, 159. 
Wharncliffe, Baron, 36, and note, 

316. 
Wharncliffe, Baroness, 36, and 

note, 74, 75. 
Wheeler, Francis, 107, note. 
Whichcote, Lady, 220, and note, 

227; description of, 221. 
Whichcote, Sir Thomas, 220, 

and note. 
White, Caroline Story, see Mrs. 

Daniel Fletcher Webster. 
White, Elizabeth Stone, see Mrs. 

Samuel Calley Gray. 
White, Ellen Marion, see Mrs. 

John Benjamin Joy. 
White, Harriet Story, 75, note. 
White, Capt. Joseph, 68, note. 
White, Stephen, 39, note, 116, 

note. 
Wiggin, Benjamin, 9. 
Wiggin, Mrs. Benjamin, 9. 
Wiggin, Holme, 9. 
Wiggin, Timothy, 9, and note, 67. 
Wiggin, Mrs. Timothy, 9, 166. 
Wilkes, Charles, 280. 
William IV, 55, note. 



Willis, Nathaniel Parker, 39, 
and note, 108, 247, 279. 

Willoughby de Eresby, Baron, 
261, note. 

Willoughby de Eresby, Baroness, 
261, and note. 

Wilton, Earl of, 36, note, 350, and 
note. 

Winckley, Thomas, 146, note. 

Windermere, 211. 

Windermere, Lake, 212. 

Windsor Castle, 130-138. 

Wistow Hall, 322-331. 

Woburn Abbey, 346-347. 

Wombwell, Lady, 38. 

Wood, Mr., 45. 

Worcester, 186. 

Worcester, Marquis of, descrip- 
tion of, 140, and note. 

Wordsworth, William, 10, and 
note, 11, 163, note, 212, 225. 

Wordsworth, Mrs. William, 212, 
and note. 

Wraix-Currie, Mr., 87. 

Wraix-Currie, Mrs., 87. 

Wynd Cliff, 191. 

Wynn, Sir Watkin Williams, 
198, and note. 

York, 300, 306. 

York, Archbishop of, 125, 306. 

and note, 313. 
York Minster, 308-313. 
Young, Mr., 160. 

Zichy, Countess, 160. 
Zoological Gardens, 26-27. 



Five hundred and seventy copies of this 
book, of which five hundred are for sale, 
were printed at The Riverside Press, 
Cambridge, V. S. A., in December, 1917 




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